P219A code 5.7

[hunterdan]

Recently (5/8/26) dropped my cats and replaced them with an aftermarket set. Reasoning was two fold, wanted to replace the aging oxygen sensors as they were starting to get a bit sluggish in their reading, and wanted to swap in a set that had a better flowing y pipe. After doing the work, I could smell exhaust in the cab, but attributed it to things burning off the new pipes. Drove for the next day and 1/2 and 40 some miles just fine, but then Sunday it triggered the p219a code. Figured it was the collector on the passenger side. Was able to tighten it up quite a bit. I don't hear or see any signs of a leak. Exhaust smell is gone. I have been monitoring my Oxygen sensors and both upstreams are switching back and forth the same, so I'm not suspecting the new one to be an issue. I'm going to monitor my fuel trims at idle when I get the chance, but I'm wondering if the new oxygen sensors are reading better and are now picking up that maybe the intake bolts have backed off slightly since I did the work a few months ago. So, that'll be the next thing I do when I get home from work, tighten all the intake manifold bolts. Otherwise, the truck is running really good, it feels better than it has in a long time. I have no other codes pending or stored, just the p219a. No misfires or anything.
So, to sum it up, next steps are to:
Verify fuel trims at idle and under throttle.
Verify manifold bolts are tight
Double-check collector bolts to make sure they haven't backed off and check for signs of leakage.

Anything else to check? I may try putting some injector cleaner in to ensure I don't have a dirty injector, but I'd think if I had an injector that wasn't firing correctly, I might see some misfire codes.

 

[Wild one]

Recently (5/8/26) dropped my cats and replaced them with an aftermarket set. Reasoning was two fold, wanted to replace the aging oxygen sensors as they were starting to get a bit sluggish in their reading, and wanted to swap in a set that had a better flowing y pipe. After doing the work, I could smell exhaust in the cab, but attributed it to things burning off the new pipes. Drove for the next day and 1/2 and 40 some miles just fine, but then Sunday it triggered the p219a code. Figured it was the collector on the passenger side. Was able to tighten it up quite a bit. I don't hear or see any signs of a leak. Exhaust smell is gone. I have been monitoring my Oxygen sensors and both upstreams are switching back and forth the same, so I'm not suspecting the new one to be an issue. I'm going to monitor my fuel trims at idle when I get the chance, but I'm wondering if the new oxygen sensors are reading better and are now picking up that maybe the intake bolts have backed off slightly since I did the work a few months ago. So, that'll be the next thing I do when I get home from work, tighten all the intake manifold bolts. Otherwise, the truck is running really good, it feels better than it has in a long time. I have no other codes pending or stored, just the p219a. No misfires or anything.
So, to sum it up, next steps are to:
Verify fuel trims at idle and under throttle.
Verify manifold bolts are tight
Double-check collector bolts to make sure they haven't backed off and check for signs of leakage.

Anything else to check? I may try putting some injector cleaner in to ensure I don't have a dirty injector, but I'd think if I had an injector that wasn't firing correctly, I might see some misfire codes.

I know you had the manifold off and cleaned it awhile ago,but i forget if you said if you'd replaced the gaskets/o-rings with new ones ,and what brand you used?
I've never had any issues with the Felpro gaskets,but i know some guys have had issues with them,but it's usually because they never lubricated the o-ring or head surface,and have tore the gaskets when sliding the manifold on the head surface.

 

[hunterdan]

I know you had the manifold off and cleaned it awhile ago,but i forget if you said if you'd replaced the gaskets/o-rings with new ones ,and what brand you used?
I've never had any issues with the Felpro gaskets,but i know some guys have had issues with them,but it's usually because they never lubricated the o-ring or head surface,and have tore the gaskets when sliding the manifold on the head surface.

I used mahle gaskets. I didn't lube the head or the gaskets before putting the manifold back on. It's not the end of the world if I have to pull the manifold again. I'd prefer not to, but I'd rather do that than mess with the exhaust again...

 

[hunterdan]

Took some screenshots of ltft at idle and at 2500 rpm.
I'm not seeing a massive discrepancy between bank 1 and bank 2. Certainly nothing +/-10% either while driving.
I snugged up all the manifold bolts when I got home. I cleared the code, unplugged the battery and will try seeing if that changes things. No other trouble codes present, no misfires. Only thing I did notice was that while inspecting my catch can hoses, the hoses aren't clamped at all. And where it connect back up under the throttle body had some separation between the fittings. I have some new hoses and clamps on the way, figured it can't hurt to make sure that is not the issue. Otherwise, truck is running absolutely amazing. O2 sensors are switching beautifully, low end power feels right where it should be (better than it has, and not bad for 35s and 3.21s). I almost wish I had some stock wheels and tires to throw on it to see how they felt.

 

[hunterdan]

Update, replaced my catch can hose running from the catch can to the intake with a better piece, and clamped it. Was hoping I could make the 1/2" hose fit over the intake fitting, but it looks to be slightly larger and I couldn't force the hose on. But, clamped all the connections that were kind of loose before so no chance of any leaks. I have been tightening up the collector bolts as I can, but I think they're about as tight as they'll get now.
Since I've reset the code last week, it hasn't come back on (knock on wood), I've put about 100 miles on the truck. I have a slight leak where the driver side cat crosses over and connects, so I'm going to replace that band clamp with a lap joint style clamp and do the same with the y pipe to extension pipe. I'll probably put some high temp copper sealant around the pipes before clamping to try and seal them up a little better. Hopefully, things continue trending in this direction.
If the clamps don't work, at least at the crossover, I may have that pipe welded up.

 

[hunterdan]

Well, code came back on my way home from work...


This is a screenshot of what was going on when the light was triggered.

 

[Wild one]

Well, code came back on my way home from work...
View attachment 584424

This is a screenshot of what was going on when the light was triggered.

Did you load test your battery with an old school toaster tester.If you don't have one,grab one from Harbor Freight they're only 20 bucks.

100 Amp, 6/12V Battery Load Tester

Amazing deals on this 100 Amp 6/12V Battery Load Tester at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

 

[hunterdan]

I don't have any vacuum leaks. I sprayed around the intake and all the vacuum hoses with some carb cleaner and there was no difference in the idle.
I ordered a new map sensor, but I'm starting to wonder if maybe I have a defective oxygen sensor on bank 1.

 

[hunterdan]

Did you load test your battery with an old school toaster tester.If you don't have one,grab one from Harbor Freight they're only 20 bucks.

100 Amp, 6/12V Battery Load Tester

Amazing deals on this 100 Amp 6/12V Battery Load Tester at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

Wasn't something I had thought to check since the code only came on after I did the work on the exhaust and oxygen sensors.

 

[Wild one]

Wasn't something I had thought to check since the code only came on after I did the work on the exhaust and oxygen sensors.

With the amount of codes you're getting,i'd start with the simple things first,like a battery load test

 

[hunterdan]

With the amount of codes you're getting,i'd start with the simple things first,like a battery load test

It's only the p216a code. Not getting any others.
Just to confirm, bank 1 is passenger side, correct?

 

[turkeybird56]

If U getting O2 sensor code replace with OEM only.
One of mine went out years ago. Warranty. Dealer replaced and I drove 1/4 mile to BK for a burger. Got friggin code again. Back to Dealer and after Lil discussion had the other 3 replaced. No more issues.

Moral of story. Don’t be surprised if others go and OEM ONLY on sensors.

All those codes Screams Battery Voltage issue or main wiring connector

P216A — Fuel Injector Group E Supply Voltage Circuit/Open – Staff Communities

Detailed page for trouble code P216A.

digital.staff-capital.com

 

[turkeybird56]

Google Search

Above. P216a Ram 1500 4th Gen url above.
Click in URL google above.

 

[turkeybird56]

Google Search

P219A info. FTR. Drivers side

 

[hunterdan]

If U getting O2 sensor code replace with OEM only.
One of mine went out years ago. Warranty. Dealer replaced and I drove 1/4 mile to BK for a burger. Got friggin code again. Back to Dealer and after Lil discussion had the other 3 replaced. No more issues.

Moral of story. Don’t be surprised if others go and OEM ONLY on sensors.

All those codes Screams Battery Voltage issue or main wiring connector

P216A — Fuel Injector Group E Supply Voltage Circuit/Open – Staff Communities

Detailed page for trouble code P216A.

digital.staff-capital.com

Those aren't codes, it was a screenshot of the ecm when the code was triggered.

 

[RedSRT4Me]

What tune are you using?

If all else checks out sometimes the values changing trip up those codes because the truck thinks it's different than it used to be.
Clearing the codes, then driving it till it's emissions ready will fix the issue.

Its like a way of learning the new values before it clears. Again if no hardware issues exist.

 

[hunterdan]

No tune

 

[turkeybird56]

Those aren't codes, it was a screenshot of the ecm when the code was triggered.

The info I posted on whether 216 or 219 still good tho.

 

[hunterdan]

Well, considering Google led me a stray, I've been focusing on exhaust leaks on the passenger side. On the driver side, I replaced one of my exhaust flange bolts on the driver side with a shoulder bolt and it's possible the bolt isn't tightening down enough to created an air tight seal. Going to focus on that next next and replace both of those bolts with new fully threaded bolts. If I can squeeze some copper rtv on that flange as well, I will.

 

[hunterdan]

So, one thing I noticed yesterday after messing with the exhaust collector bolts and clearing codes. At idle, ltft values are near -10%. But at any other engine speed they drop down to near 0. Could my evap purge valve be leaking and pulling fuel into the manifold? This could be why I'm seeing more negative values on fuel trims than positive.