LED license plate nightmare

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william moscato

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Burbank. il
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2012
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5.7
I have a 2012 Ram ST 5.7 and I installed the LED license plate lights they worked fine, then about 3 weeks later the passenger light went out. I reached under the bumper and shook the wiring to see if the connection came loose but then both plate lights went out with the drivers rear tail light and the front drivers parking light. I replaced all the light bulbs then I change back to the factory lights and the same thing still happens. I tried 3 sets of new bulbs on each plug, Any ideas from anyone?? Thanks
 

itswiggs

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Have you tested for voltage at the lights? It could be simple as a short or loose connection.
 
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william moscato

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I'll try the voltage tester, I checked for broken wires and didn't notice anything. The turn signal works for both the front the back, the brake lights work and the reverse light works. Only the parking light and the tail light don't work. I have disconnected the LED license plate lights and still nothing. Also replaced the license plate light back to stock and still no power to them. That's the confusing part, thank you for any and all input!! Something has to work before I have to take it to the mechanic $$$. Lol
 

PolarBearKing

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FL
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2018
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Hemi 5.7
Similar situation... Here is breakdown... I swapped tag lights, and all interior lights (except the dark orange night light from above that lights up the center console) to LEDs. Over the course of the next few years I changed them out to other brands as after about a few months they all began to flicker randomly. After about 8 brands I got tired of buying new ones and just decided to swap them back to original style bland yellow. However, I discovered my tag lights were not working, pulled the bulb out and noticed the bulb bottom was slightly melted. I decided to change the bulb socket and that fixed it, so it appears the socket itself melted along with the LED but it wasn't visibly noticeable except a little on the LED bulb bottom... But changing the socket bulb took about 5 min to change them both. You might have to do the same thing. That's my two cents and probably the fastest method to rule out before digging into the entire wire harness.... My only other concern of note was that I had no parking light issues and it makes sense that the tag lights are just tied into the parking lights, so at that point I would check the fuses, both inside and engine compartment fuse boxes. (It would make sense that perhaps when wiggling and they flickered, that eventually going down the road, the additional wiggling of natural road travel probably caused a short, blowing a fuse. I drive a semi and our trailer lights are the most common to go out due to wear and tear from our pigtail which connects electric from truck to trailer, many times the wear and tear is a slight exposure of the connector end of the pigtail and the natural road travel regularly causes entire shorts blowing the fuse on the truck.)
 
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GTyankee

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i know absolutely zilch about LEDs & electricity in general

But, i have read on here that when you change out regular headlights for LEDs. That a resistor has to be in the circuit.

To me, that would mean that LEDs don't need much electricity

Then you decide that the engineers had built the vehicle the way that worked best with that CPU & such.

Then you switch back & totally confused the CPU

It was much easier to change a 6 Volt Car over to 12 Volts

Like i mentioned, i do know that it is not a good thing to test home wiring with out checking the Breaker
 

Marshall

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If you wiggled wires and more lights go out, you have wire problems
The turn signal and brake lights are a common, same cck.
The licence plate and clearance , tail lights are on a different cck, so you need to check those wires and plugs and sockets
On country roads we use to be fixing wires all the time at rear of trucks, trailers are bad for crappy wiring
Get a voltmeter
 
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