LED Light Bar/Pods Install behind grill and bumper

[sbarron]

No problem.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Underarock13]

You're the man!

 

[Donelam304]

I have a question for ya'll. On my 30" led bar I have noticed the switch gets hot. I run the wires from the light, to the fuse box, to the battery, and to the switch. Do I need a relay or something.

 

[SitKneelBend]

I have a question for ya'll. On my 30" led bar I have noticed the switch gets hot. I run the wires from the light, to the fuse box, to the battery, and to the switch. Do I need a relay or something.

Yes!

Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk

 

[sbarron]

Lol. Yes. The heat is caused by the resistance in the switch. Like a toaster element. The lights are trying to pull more power than the switch wants to let through.

You need to install a relay and maybe use a larger gauge wire to power the light. Also make sure your fuse stays on the power circuit rather than the switch circuit. The fuse should also be as close to the battery as possible.

If your switch is getting hot, you need to do this ASAP, the switch will break down due to heat and likely eventually short, hopefully blowing the fuse, but possibly burning up wire, or worse.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Donelam304]

I have a 30 amp switch and 30 amp fuse and the wire is a large gauge. The wire isn't getting hot, it's just the switch.

 

[sbarron]

Ok. Bad switch? Incandescent bulb in switch? LED shouldn't get hot. The only reason that heat is generated by electricity is resistance.

On a personal note, I would never trust a switch with anything more than a few amps before I installed a relay.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Donelam304]

I've switched out the switch already. And I don't have a relay. Where should I put one at and what type and size. The light itself isn't getting hot either. It's just the switch.

 

[sbarron]

A relay can go anywhere (just remember that the shorter the wire run, the better), and really, any name-brand relay would work for you as long as it is rated for the amperage of your light. If you go back to the beginning of this thread you can see where I mounted mine. I'd suggest the weatherproof variety if you mount under the hood. If you mounted them inside, no need for weatherproof.

As for the hot switch, like I said, somewhere there is resistance, be it small conductors, internal wiring, etc. the relay will eliminate this.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Northshoremb]

I just received my ICI brackets today and trying to mount. I am very disappointed at how they fit the lights. The lights are not aligned over each other and set way back. Can't even get true flood and also fit and finish now looks shifty. You can see right in and notice the plastic original brackets and such

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

 

[sbarron]

I just received my ICI brackets today and trying to mount. I am very disappointed at how they fit the lights. The lights are not aligned over each other and set way back. Can't even get true flood and also fit and finish now looks shifty. You can see right in and notice the plastic original brackets and such

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

Because of the stamping process,one light will sit further back from the other. You can rebend the tab the other direction, but then if I remember correctly either there is bolt interference or you'll have to reprint. I looked at doing this, but didn't as the person who inspired this mod for me (Firemedic) tried and didn't like the result.

As to the light pattern, I have driving pattern in one set and hyper spot in the other. I mounted the driving pattern in the forward position and the hyper spots in the rear. I've had no problem with interference or shadow casting.

And yes, these square cubes don't fill the odd-shaped fog light opening completely, but in 3 years of running them, not one person other than me has noticed. If you are truly unhappy, put your OEM fog lenses back in and change the bulb to something brighter. Many threads here with people happy with both mods.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Northshoremb]

Because of the stamping process,one light will sit further back from the other. You can rebend the tab the other direction, but then if I remember correctly either there is bolt interference or you'll have to reprint. I looked at doing this, but didn't as the person who inspired this mod for me (Firemedic) tried and didn't like the result.

As to the light pattern, I have driving pattern in one set and hyper spot in the other. I mounted the driving pattern in the forward position and the hyper spots in the rear. I've had no problem with interference or shadow casting.

And yes, these square cubes don't fill the odd-shaped fog light opening completely, but in 3 years of running them, not one person other than me has noticed. If you are truly unhappy, put your OEM fog lenses back in and change the bulb to something brighter. Many threads here with people happy with both mods.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

These are not stamped they are plasma cut and the tabs are welded. They are ICI brackets made for 2013-2014 Ram vertical fogs so the correct ones. I also put the spot in the lower back position and flood on the upper and lots of lost pattern behind the bumper. I mounted just the passenger side and was just outside checking and that's what I came up with. I believe I'm going to reuse the outside mounting ring and cut off the stock tabs and weld on new ones. Just sucks to spend $50 on brackets that don't even come close to representing what they advertise.

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

 

[sbarron]

Hmmm. I guess they changed manufacturing methods. Mine were stamped. If you have the skill to cut and reweld tabs, I'm sure you can come up with an even better. Punting system. If I would have had a welder 3 years ago, I would have fabbed my own brackets.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Northshoremb]

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

 

[sbarron]

Hmmm. When I get back from the slope I'll have to look and see if mine sit that far back. I don't think they do.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[sbarron]

Found a couple of old pictures.





Not sure about the setback, but the brackets are definitely stamped. If your brackets don't look like this either they have changed the style, or maybe put the wrong bracket in the box?

Any chance you have the right and left backwards? Can you use the other bracket in that side (flip it) moving the tabs further forward. I seem to remember puzzling this out when I installed


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[sbarron]

Of course I'm old and don't remember a lot of **** exactly as it went down. Lol.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Northshoremb]

Of course I'm old and don't remember a lot of **** exactly as it went down. Lol.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Lol

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

 

[Rzrman328]

I like the idea of these but them being so recessed would drive me crazy even if no one else would notice lol

 

[Northshoremb]

I like the idea of these but them being so recessed would drive me crazy even if no one else would notice lol

Exactly why I'm feeling depressed right now. I will have to take out the cutting disk and welder to make them work

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk