Lets Get a Straight Answer on the Synthetic Oil

[PNUTLT1]

RParrJr read the syn thread to make a choice. Forum users here like Penzoil Ultra, Redline, Amsoil SS, Mobil 1, and some others. There is a lot to consider, group 5 ester base (Redline or Motul), group 3 hydro crack (mobil 1 and most syns), group 3 gas to liquid (Ultra), group 4 oils like Amsoil SS, etc. If you want hyper cleaning polar molecules try ester, if you want the longest oil change interval try Amsoil SS, if you want economical choice but still great oil go Mobil 1, etc. Consider going up t 5w30, and consider a micro glass filter, it will go a year easy and no paper filter will. I run Redline Oil along with the two guys previously and many forum members, and the only filter I will run is Royal Purple. See my mini review towards the end of the syn thread. But the cost if off putting for some. It is hard to argue with the Mobil One deal at costco when they are on sale every other month, 27.99 for 6 qrts pretty darn good argument to run that oil. Just consider 5w30, you will get better film strength kinda important for our Hemi's IMO. Also, I think most forum members say choose an oil with Moly in the additive package. Ask me about what oil you are thinking about and I will point you to see the moly levels if you don't know how. Read this, hemi lifters are prone to tick, moly is needed to protect them when they are dry. Some oils do not have moly, such as Valvoline.

Nothing you need to do but change the oil. If you use a plastic bag over the filter, you can minimize drip.

Sooo is there a difference between the group 5 or group 3 oils?
Like I understand they come from different sources and are refined differently.
But is the Esther based redline really a lot better to quiet up a hemi tick over a group 3 hydrocrack oil like royal purple?

 

[Hemi395]

Sooo is there a difference between the group 5 or group 3 oils?
Like I understand they come from different sources and are refined differently.
But is the Esther based redline really a lot better to quiet up a hemi tick over a group 3 hydrocrack oil like royal purple?

Yes. I can attest to Redline making the Hemi quieter as can Burla, RLK and I'm sure there are others. It also makes your Hemi run a little smoother. It's all my truck will be getting for oil from now on.

 

[R.L.K.]

Yes. I can attest to Redline making the Hemi quieter as can Burla, RLK and I'm sure there are others. It also makes your Hemi run a little smoother. It's all my truck will be getting for oil from now on.

I hear ya brother ! ! I'm a : see it , hear it , touch it , taste it , feel it type a guy to make a believer out of me .

After my first experience with Redline 5W -30 oil to not only quite down my 5.7L Hemi but give me better oil press and just knowing it has more moly % and an equal or better Robust overall package than other hydrocracked oils ............. I don't see me changing from REDLINE OILS .

I do think there are hydrocracked oils that are Fantastic and will save $50+ per oil change over Redline Ester based oil and I think these oils are certinly capable of quieting down the hemi as well . I do think it would require a 30wt oil to do so though .

( ☆☆☆ CONSIDER THIS FOLKS ☆☆☆)
If you live in an area that the outside air temps fall below 5°f on a routine basis like Fargo , ND. You should consider running 20wt oil as a winter oil .
(Credits : raven )



I have found MY oil , I didn't have to try multiple oils to achieve a quite hemi , I found my oil and filter combo on the first time ! ! You want to know how I did that ??
I read a lot and then I read some more , then some more , and then I simply started listening and focusing on actual results and seeing who was most successful in all their experiments with different types of oils ..... I started noticing a pattern from guys & gals ALL OVER THE WORLD WIDE WEB and on different 5.7hemi forums and on the Z forum and Dodge talk AND guys just like some here like Burla , Syn , Hemi395 and now myself R.L.K. !

I then simply did what many have done with proven positive results I went with a high Moly Ester based oil with a Robust overall package with proven results in the field and the lab in a 30wt oil

Redline 5W -30.

I then went with a high quality 100% synthetic media filter with a silicone ADBV ( anti drain back valve ) that had proven results in the field .

Royal Purple 10-48 oil filter .

In closing I'll say run what you want , experiment how you choose , but if you want to quiet the tick or whatever you want to call it , your % of doing so the 1rst time is greatly increased by just following suit as stated above IMHO.

 

[Burla]

Sooo is there a difference between the group 5 or group 3 oils?
Like I understand they come from different sources and are refined differently.
But is the Esther based redline really a lot better to quiet up a hemi tick over a group 3 hydrocrack oil like royal purple?

So like Syn points out and I agree there is little evidence that you can prove any oil is that much "better" then any oil in an engine. Many real oil guys know a lot about oil but still use cheap conventional oil and a short OCI interval and have a good argument for doing so.

But there is one absolute fact that is proven by a large user base beyond even this forum's experience, Redline will quiet almost any engine you use it in. Not only super quieted my Ram, but I just used it in my wife's 4 banger toyota, you know how they shake and rattle a little? Seam to shake down to the engine mounts. Well I was very surprised that almost immediately that shake is gone, and all I did different was use Redline 5w20 and a Royal Purple canister filter. Google Redline Oil Quiets smooth and see what you get. Many many experiences out there that you just don't get with all oils. Google Redlne Oil sucks and you wont get many hits if any, google royal purple oil is garbage and sucks and you will get a library. I am just pointing this out, don't necessarily agree with the results, but they are for real.

Is there a difference between marketing gimmicks or really scientific based formulas? People would have to actually plug in and test to find out. Most people don't do this, they just take information and hold it as gospel and go off that. Gimmick oils are wildly popular and profitable. I would say it is a much harder road to make the best product possible and have to charge much more for the mix, probably why there are only two companies that are committed to ester base.

Some gimmicks will also make you engine smooth, but they come at a cost. Prolong comes to mind. Chlorinated paraffins, or Tephlon or others can really sound good, but on paper those can have ill effects but when you research esters that have been time tested and proven, there is no downside except they cost more due to production costs. Much more benefits then just a smooth engine as well.

I have been running 5w30 Redline for a couple days, doesn't sound much different then 5w20 Redline, both are real smooth. I still prefer the 5w30. I will post the UOA for a 2 year oil change interval up in the synthetic oil thread when I get it, should be any day now.

 

[Burla]

If 3 forum members with nothing to gain isn't enough, just google it. When you find something this cool, you just want to share the info. I think Boxcarmommie is the person posts I caught which made me consider Redline, now a couple guys probably think of me as the person who got them to try Redline. But it will be infectious, true quality is hard to fake. Best part about Redline, you can actually see the results in the tech specs. And when an honest company like Amsoil tests Redline, redline will test off the charts in some areas and no other oil will come close. Yes, Amsoil will come out in those tests as they are set up to give higher values to their oils formulas, but some things like falex pin and vee block numbers, they need a new chart to measure because Redline hits the max.

You can see some of the science is backed up, read page 14 on this pdf. 3250 was the ceiling, so no real way to know how much higher Redline could have went. Yes it is a gear oil test, but the point being how esters behave in testing proves their difference.

Below is a picture of Redline oil ran through a dragster and a different oil that is a white goopy mess ran through the same dragster. As stated a million times, maybe not relevant to our engines, but you can see the quality for yourself. Redline is completely stable under the most serious loads.

 

[Duster79]

So after reading all the posts about oil, I will stay with what I have always been using, my last ram had over 300k on it , my other vehicles have over 200k on them using Vavoline SynPower So I will continue to use it with purelator filters


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Burla]

How about I give you one more to read bud? One cool feature at bob's is not the forum but rather the q&a's where people get to ask manu's questions. So I give this to you for your consideration.

Specifically this question and answer.

Question- It seems that most of members here in BITOG believe that molybdenum metal element is such a superior agent for engine protection, at the same time people hate to see lots of sodium in their oil (for some unclear reasons). Are you aware of that? Are you willing to provide any explanation about your additive formulation to convince us? (08Sienna)

Answer from Valvoline- As most of the BITOG members know, motor oil formulation is indeed a delicate balance of all the components in the fluid. At Valvoline, our scientists and engineers formulate our products to meet the targeted specifications and performance levels with the use of the best combination of base oils and additive packages, which may or may not include the use of organo-molybdenum and bi-metallic detergent systems. All of our formulations are bench studied, engine approved, field tested and race-track proven.


Now, if that answer satisfies you then I say use that Valvoline with confidence. But we happened to have a member run 70k on Valvoline and had his cam wear to the nub. Who is to say if moly would have helped this guy, but I bet if he had a choice after the fact, he woulda chose an oil with moly. I would never use an oil without some moly.

Again moly basics, when your cam spins it is dry until the oil gets there, lifters as well. Moly is the only thing that provides a barrier of protection, and Valvoline doesn't use it.

This is the straight dope thread on oil, and that is some straight dope.

 

[R.L.K.]

So after reading all the posts about oil, I will stay with what I have always been using, my last ram had over 300k on it , my other vehicles have over 200k on them using Vavoline SynPower So I will continue to use it with purelator filters


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wow , really?

So much available that is better .

Well without my new found knowledge my last Dodge I had did last for 275k pretty much maint free miles , other than routine type stuff .
Good luck to ya Sir !

 

[Burla]

Seek to educate not judge my friend, if the guy likes Valvoline he is not alone, wildly popular oil. Just gave him something to chew on since maybe he didn't know or knows but doesn't care, which is also ok.

 

[Rustycowl69]

How about I give you one more to read bud? One cool feature at bob's is not the forum but rather the q&a's where people get to ask manu's questions. So I give this to you for your consideration.

Answer from Valvoline- As most of the BITOG members know, motor oil formulation is indeed a delicate balance of all the components in the fluid. At Valvoline, our scientists and engineers formulate our products to meet the targeted specifications and performance levels with the use of the best combination of base oils and additive packages, which may or may not include the use of organo-molybdenum and bi-metallic detergent systems. All of our formulations are bench studied, engine approved, field tested

I don't have a dog in this fight, but when I read the quote above, I see that Valvoline doesn't say they don't use moly. They don't say they do use moly, either. I'm just a little confused, where that came from.

 

[raven3]

The folks at Valvoline maybe using an organic type friction modifier to the base stock rather than the metal type, moly.

It's all proprietary like coke a cola....no one knows what's in it and cannot be detected by oil analysis.

Friction modifiers are effective in the thinner metal to metal boundary layer film thickness.

The lifter roller to cam lobe line contact surface is boundary layer thickness and maybe the pin to lifter clevis line contact surface.

Would rather have a roller hydraulic lifter than a mechanical bucket type,
which is not much different than a flat bottom hydraulic lifter.

 

[PNUTLT1]

Seek to educate not judge my friend, if the guy likes Valvoline he is not alone, wildly popular oil. Just gave him something to chew on since maybe he didn't know or knows but doesn't care, which is also ok.

Nicely said!

I hear ya brother ! ! I'm a : see it , hear it , touch it , taste it , feel it type a guy to make a believer out of me .

After my first experience with Redline 5W -30 oil to not only quite down my 5.7L Hemi but give me better oil press and just knowing it has more moly % and an equal or better Robust overall package than other hydrocracked oils ............. I don't see me changing from REDLINE OILS .

I do think there are hydrocracked oils that are Fantastic and will save $50+ per oil change over Redline Ester based oil and I think these oils are certinly capable of quieting down the hemi as well . I do think it would require a 30wt oil to do so though .

( ☆☆☆ CONSIDER THIS FOLKS ☆☆☆)
If you live in an area that the outside air temps fall below 5°f on a routine basis like Fargo , ND. You should consider running 20wt oil as a winter oil .
(Credits : raven )



I have found MY oil , I didn't have to try multiple oils to achieve a quite hemi , I found my oil and filter combo on the first time ! ! You want to know how I did that ??
I read a lot and then I read some more , then some more , and then I simply started listening and focusing on actual results and seeing who was most successful in all their experiments with different types of oils ..... I started noticing a pattern from guys & gals ALL OVER THE WORLD WIDE WEB and on different 5.7hemi forums and on the Z forum and Dodge talk AND guys just like some here like Burla , Syn , Hemi395 and now myself R.L.K. !

I then simply did what many have done with proven positive results I went with a high Moly Ester based oil with a Robust overall package with proven results in the field and the lab in a 30wt oil

Redline 5W -30.

I then went with a high quality 100% synthetic media filter with a silicone ADBV ( anti drain back valve ) that had proven results in the field .

Royal Purple 10-48 oil filter .

In closing I'll say run what you want , experiment how you choose , but if you want to quiet the tick or whatever you want to call it , your % of doing so the 1rst time is greatly increased by just following suit as stated above IMHO.

Wow that was nicely put!
I only changed my oil once and I went with RP 5w-20 and a RP filter.
I would say that now at times the engine is a little loud at times but I would not call it a hemi tick.
Maybe the oil is breaking down or something?
I have 4,500 miles on the RP oil.

But after all the threads and everything I seen,
I am convinced 100% that I will use Redline oil on my next oil change.
I'm not too sure about 5-20 or 5-30 but I'll get one in a Redline forsure!
It is expensive I must say, but I think the quiet hemi will be worth it!
I was going to get Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5-20, but I'll give Redline a try next time around!
I will post results once I do it.

 

[Burla]

I don't have a dog in this fight, but when I read the quote above, I see that Valvoline doesn't say they don't use moly. They don't say they do use moly, either. I'm just a little confused, where that came from.

Fair enough, it is common knowledge they don't use moly. PQIA also has no dog in the fight, it was created to ensure the oil industry had a high standard or face being called on it, they test most otc oils. Here is PQIA's ****** test on Synpower.

You may not believes this, but I have no dog in the fight either. The second someone makes a better oil, I will jump ship. I like the science, not any brand name. I feel if Valvoline had Moly, they would be top tier in my opinion. In fact, maybe you should stick with Valvoline and consider using a moly substitute. I think the only one that is oil soluble without thickeners is Lubeguard Bio/Tech Engine Oil Protectant. Hope that helped, Burla

 

[R.L.K.]

Nicely said!




Wow that was nicely put!
I only changed my oil once and I went with RP 5w-20 and a RP filter.
I would say that now at times the engine is a little loud at times but I would not call it a hemi tick.
Maybe the oil is breaking down or something?
I have 4,500 miles on the RP oil.

But after all the threads and everything I seen,
I am convinced 100% that I will use Redline oil on my next oil change.
I'm not too sure about 5-20 or 5-30 but I'll get one in a Redline forsure!
It is expensive I must say, but I think the quiet hemi will be worth it!
I was going to get Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5-20, but I'll give Redline a try next time around!
I will post results once I do it.

I'd go 0w30 RL if I was you , I'm actually adding 3ea 0W -40 RL to my next oil change ...

 

[PNUTLT1]

I'd go 0w30 RL if I was you , I'm actually adding 3ea 0W -40 RL to my next oil change ...

I'm thinking about 5w30, but since 5w20 is oem recommended I feel **** about anything other than that lol.

But I'm still deciding between the 2.

Btw I don't mean to jump ship and hop onto a new topic, but on a ram with an
oem lsd, I know 75-140 is supposed to be used but will it need the mopar limited slip additive or will this one do the job?

Red Line Synthetic Oil - Gear Oil for Differentials - 75W140 GL-5 Gear Oil

It says - for most LSDs, no additional friction modifiers are required
But are do our trucks use clutch pack lsd or hellical lsd?

 

[R.L.K.]

Clutch in our trucks and to my knowledge the GL-5 Redline has everything you need and requires no additional additives. ..

 

[R.L.K.]

If you have a 4x4 then you'd require 75W -90 in the front differential again the GL-5 Redline would be my choice .

 

[PNUTLT1]

Clutch in our trucks and to my knowledge the GL-5 Redline has everything you need and requires no additional additives. ..

Mine is a 4x2
So I will only need the back oil in the 75-140
So these will require 3 qts right?

 

[R.L.K.]

Mine is a 4x2
So I will only need the back oil in the 75-140
So these will require 3 qts right?

I'm not positive on the actual capacity but 3ea qts will certinly cover it !

 

[Burla]

PNUTLT1 if you have Redline local, don't worry about it. But if you don't, I'd buy the LSD additive and have it on hand. You add it only if you have shudder, vibration, or slip, it is however hardly ever necessary even with limited slip. You add only one ounce at a time if you notice any vibration. Redline has a cool application guide for whatever vehicle you are running it in, HERE.


By the way, that application tool is great for anyone looking up what weights to use in any vehicle, doesn't have to be redline specific. To bad every auto manufacturer doesn't have a tool like this for their vehicles. Seams so simple.


Read here for the lsd additive.




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