Lifter tick after sitting

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rzr6-4

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I used to daily my 09 (200k) every day and never noticed any tick, and I still don't when I drive it consistently, but with it warm out I take the bike to work as much as I can and may not take the ram for a week at a time. When it's been sitting for a while like that, there will be some lifter tick, just for a few seconds.

Is the tick just caused but the oil having more time to flow downward over that week and is just running dry for a moment or do you think this is a sign of worse things to come?
 

Burla

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Read the lubrication threads in my sig, high molybdenum and polar base oils fix this in 80% of cases, read polls as well. The main use of molybdenum in engine oil is for dry starts, but sadly the hemi seams to need more then average. You need the right type of moly for best results, the type in biotech and redline oil, which is not mos2. Lubegard biotech is much cheaper and comes with an about 50% success rate, if that fails 5w30 redline must be high performance line is gonna be the god standard. Mos2 would be the last choice as it comes with some risks that oil soluble moly doesnt. Moly can take a while to plate, science is what it is. Oil filter choice is equally important, RP 20-820 is about as good as it gets.
 

caulk04

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I don't think that this brief tick/tap at startup is actually a lubrication issue, but rather a hydraulic one. Sounds like a lifter is just bleeding down over time in your case if you've narrowed it down to only doing it after sitting. I also don't think that this brief tick is really all that big a deal. Not ideal for sure, but it is what it is.

Mine can sit for several days and not tick at startup, but if I start it cold and just move it across the driveway etc then shut it down it will tick/tap at the next startup even if it's only a few minutes later. If I hold revs to build oil pressure for 10-15 seconds it won't do it.
 

ramffml

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I don't think that this brief tick/tap at startup is actually a lubrication issue, but rather a hydraulic one. Sounds like a lifter is just bleeding down over time in your case if you've narrowed it down to only doing it after sitting. I also don't think that this brief tick is really all that big a deal. Not ideal for sure, but it is what it is.

Mine can sit for several days and not tick at startup, but if I start it cold and just move it across the driveway etc then shut it down it will tick/tap at the next startup even if it's only a few minutes later. If I hold revs to build oil pressure for 10-15 seconds it won't do it.

For almost 4 years now I've been running Redline, then Mobil 1 0w-40 with LG, and now HPL (which has insane amounts of moly, well over 800 ppm IIRC); and I can still get the bleed down tick for a few seconds on occasion especially in the winter time if the truck is shut down cold (like below 50C) with about 2 hours before the next start. It also happens to me on original mopar filter, RP 10-48 and 20-280, the Fram XG10060, and the Fram XG2. Nothing I can do to prevent it other than not doing cold shutdowns.

But agreed its worth a shot, I just think we're talking about two different ticks, this strategy of Redline + RP seems to work for the the lifter failure tick but not the bleed down tick, and the bleed down is not an issue for longevity it just sounds bad.
 

Burla

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Tolerances are different for every engine, we do not have 100% success rate, but you can read the polls, we certainly have better then a good chance at killing those ticks. Molybdenum plate survives lubrication starvation, but that doesnt mean as a matter of fact it will fix this condition. Even when the moly plate is successful, if an engine sits for many weeks, you can still get that tick.

For almost 4 years now I've been running Redline, then Mobil 1 0w-40 with LG, and now HPL (which has insane amounts of moly, well over 800 ppm IIRC); and I can still get the bleed down tick for a few seconds on occasion especially in the winter time if the truck is shut down cold (like below 50C) with about 2 hours before the next start. It also happens to me on original mopar filter, RP 10-48 and 20-280, the Fram XG10060, and the Fram XG2. Nothing I can do to prevent it other than not doing cold shutdowns.

But agreed its worth a shot, I just think we're talking about two different ticks, this strategy of Redline + RP seems to work for the the lifter failure tick but not the bleed down tick, and the bleed down is not an issue for longevity it just sounds bad.
Have you tried mos2? In this case tolerances may be so wide oil soluble moly isnt enough, but maybe mos2 will fill those gaps.
 

ramffml

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Tolerances are different for every engine, we do not have 100% success rate, but you can read the polls, we certainly have better then a good chance at killing those ticks. Molybdenum plate survives lubrication starvation, but that doesnt mean as a matter of fact it will fix this condition. Even when the moly plate is successful, if an engine sits for many weeks, you can still get that tick.


Have you tried mos2? In this case tolerances may be so wide oil soluble moly isnt enough, but maybe mos2 will fill those gaps.

The clearances might be different yes, but honestly the variations must be microscopic (measured in thousands of an inch) vs what the moly plating is doing? Could be wrong.

Only moly I've tried is what is in redline, LG, and HPL. It happens so infrequently for me (but happens predictably always under the same conditions), that I'm not trying to correct that issue at the expense of choosing different oils, I love the oil I'm running now and Redline before that, don't want to mix and make potentially a worse issue for myself.
 
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