Lifter won’t charge

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Mysfyt

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That is a stumper for sure.

You didn't mention - was the motor ok prior to rebuild?

Yes. Drove it into my shop with no lifter issues. Unfortunately, the old lifters are gone to the scrap yard. Would have been a good test to put one in and see what happens.
 
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Mysfyt

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I wonder if the block is machined properly. I assume you're putting in with oil hole in the side facing up toward intake And the pushrod is not plugged or the rocker

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We have been looking at that as we go. But so far everything measures out good. Went so far as watching the lifter with a bore scope through the galley as we turn the engine over by hand to see the lifter travel and compared it to the others. Everything appears normal.

Yes, the lifters were installed as you described. The pushrods are not plugged and I replaced the valve, lifter, pushrod and rocker plus the rocker pivot because, well, we’re desperate at this point. Going to check for the plug above the oil pump and install the high volume pump as long as we’re at it.
 

Dan98

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I believe the stock pump is pretty close to high volume. I have 75 psi cold 40 psi warm idle 60 lbs off idle with 180000miles and stock pump.
Its hard to make logic out of this.
I installed a cam ground with more exhaust lift than intake the technician sent push rods shorter than stock witch made some of the exhaust valve train loose when I ran at idle those rockers had no oil flow until I changed to longer push rods. I know you pulled cam and looked it over probably took measurement but I feel like you have a bad lobe or miss grind because nothing else adds to the factor you should not need a different oil pump to get oil flowing on one lifter

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Dan98

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Maybe you said this sorry if so maybe take lifter apart prime it open check valve to release air put it together and run it

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I believe the stock pump is pretty close to high volume. I have 75 psi cold 40 psi warm idle 60 lbs off idle with 180000miles and stock pump.
Its hard to make logic out of this.
I installed a cam ground with more exhaust lift than intake the technician sent push rods shorter than stock witch made some of the exhaust valve train loose when I ran at idle those rockers had no oil flow until I changed to longer push rods. I know you pulled cam and looked it over probably took measurement but I feel like you have a bad lobe or miss grind because nothing else adds to the factor you should not need a different oil pump to get oil flowing on one lifter

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You are right Dan98. Started it up this morning with the HV pump installed and still the same. We are putting the old head on temporarily to see if it is a geometry issue with the head. If not, new cam or put the old one in and see.
 

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I've been reading this post, and I haven't see if you put a mechanical oil pressure gauge, it can be installed where the oil pressure switch is, and it will give you a good idea of what your oil pressure is on a cold startup if you have abnormal high pressure when you start it that will tell you if there is a restriction in the lubrication system, if you have low pressure on startup that will tell you that there is excessive clearance in a Cam bearing, crank bearing, rod bearing, piston wrist pin clearance, and when the oil is warmed up you will see a drop in pressure, because the oil is thinner, I've had many engines that I've torn down and oil pressure will tell you allot about a engine, also you may have excessive clearance in the lifter bore or a internal crack in the engine block.
 

Dan98

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I've been reading this post, and I haven't see if you put a mechanical oil pressure gauge, it can be installed where the oil pressure switch is, and it will give you a good idea of what your oil pressure is on a cold startup if you have abnormal high pressure when you start it that will tell you if there is a restriction in the lubrication system, if you have low pressure on startup that will tell you that there is excessive clearance in a Cam bearing, crank bearing, rod bearing, piston wrist pin clearance, and when the oil is warmed up you will see a drop in pressure, because the oil is thinner, I've had many engines that I've torn down and oil pressure will tell you allot about a engine, also you may have excessive clearance in the lifter bore or a internal crack in the engine block.
Honestly those blocks read oil pressure right off the pump what your saying is partially accurate if the first main bearing pukes all the ****** out right there you will definitely see a drop in pressure but its gonna reed like your good. I ran one a 360 for a long time with a completely dry top end nothing above the cam 5 rod bearings thin as paper and 40psi oil pressure above idle when hot

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Mysfyt

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I've been reading this post, and I haven't see if you put a mechanical oil pressure gauge, it can be installed where the oil pressure switch is, and it will give you a good idea of what your oil pressure is on a cold startup if you have abnormal high pressure when you start it that will tell you if there is a restriction in the lubrication system, if you have low pressure on startup that will tell you that there is excessive clearance in a Cam bearing, crank bearing, rod bearing, piston wrist pin clearance, and when the oil is warmed up you will see a drop in pressure, because the oil is thinner, I've had many engines that I've torn down and oil pressure will tell you allot about a engine, also you may have excessive clearance in the lifter bore or a internal crack in the engine block.

One thing you touched on has me thinking and that is an internal crack. I had issues with the #2 cam bearing and had to replace it twice. My fault with the bearing puller/installer that I machined myself. It is in the area where we have the issue. I have been down the oil galley with an inspection camera but a hairline crack would be hard to see. Stay tuned
 

Oliver Closehauf

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I think it's time to find a new block and send it to some other shop for cleaning and prepping, not that I like abandoning this kind of investment of time effort and money.

2012-08-02_132451_picture1.jpg

This is the 318, you should be able to drive the pump with a drill and see oil squirting into the lifter bore.
 

Dan98

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I tried cam bearings on a 5.9 with a homemade tool after I bought two more boxes of bearings I waited a month for a universal cam bearings wrench. I gotta tell you they were still kinda challenging I didn't expand them enough so had to knock them all out and try again. After I finally got cam to slide in without force I had good oil pressure but two cylinders wouldn't pump either lifter I wasn't positive it was cam bearings then but I do now

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Dan98

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I think it's time to find a new block and send it to some other shop for cleaning and prepping, not that I like abandoning this kind of investment of time effort and money.

2012-08-02_132451_picture1.jpg

This is the 318, you should be able to drive the pump with a drill and see oil squirting into the lifter bore.
I believe he can fix it just needs a good bearing tool made for that block cuzz them bearings are tapered and all different size. To keep cam from walking

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Oliver Closehauf

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Yeah, I guess I look at it as a function of time. You can either take everything back out and fix the block you have, or you can get a new block and make sure it's properly prepped and then just swap parts. You'll be spending time and money either way. Of course I'm assuming you can find a good block cheap and available.
 

Dan98

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You make a good point and that is one of the things I wish I took into consideration my time as I get older I realize it doesn't go on for ever

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Dan98

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The suspense is getting the best of me.
I'm curious to see how your going along on this stubborn lifter

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The suspense is getting the best of me.
I'm curious to see how your going along on this stubborn lifter

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Don’t mean to keep you in suspense but it will be next week B4 I can work on it
 
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In the process of swapping the heads to eliminate them as being the cause. If the same lifter doesn’t charge, I know its in the block. Stay tuned
 

Oliver Closehauf

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I didn't think the heads were part of the oil supply path. I thought the lifter bore supplied the oil from the pump to the lifter, which then pumped it up through the pushrod to the rockers and it was all just gravity from there back to the pan.
 

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That is believed to be the hemi lifter issue no drain back just cam sling

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Dan98

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Seems like your chasing a rabbit down a hole. I wish I could see video of it running with cover off.


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Mysfyt

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Seems like your chasing a rabbit down a hole. I wish I could see video of it running with cover off.


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I will post a video. Just have to read up on how to do it on this forum.
 
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