Maintenance at 125k 5.7 V8

[Mark A Palmer]

I see where this general subject has been discussed, but I want to make sure I get the concerns I have in. My 2016 4WD Crew Cab 8 Speed 5.7 V8 is just turning 100k and has been a good truck. I have every intentions of driving it forever unless I *** it up. I do want to keep things working, so I am considering the following maintenance work at 125k when it will need new tires.

1. Water Pump Replacement
2. Hoses and belts
3. Plugs and Wires
4. Differential Lube change
5. Switch to high mileage synthetic oil

I intend to have this work done at the dealer to ensure that only OEM parts go back into the truck.

I'm interested in what others have done at this mileage. Please share your thoughts. I will say that this is the first Chrysler product I have ever owned, and I think it is the best vehicle I have ever had. Good truck.

 

[rmill]

I would include: throttle body cleaned, drain and fill ATF with new pan and filter, new thermostat with WP replacement, 5-30 oil to name a few. Others will add more. Good luck.

 

[EdGs]

+1 on new 8 speed transmission pan and filter, drain and fill Mopar 8+9 spd atf, pcv valve.

They will tell you it is sealed for life, but ZF recommends servicing at approx 80k miles, depending upon usage. Don't let them bullsh*t you that they did it, either.

If you are serious about having the dealer service it, be prepared to drop a bunch of coin to have this all done.

If you are mechanically inclined, you can do all of this yourself, and save a sh*tload of $$$.

 

[DILLIGAF]

6.4L swap

 

[Wild one]

6.4L swap

You might as well punch that 6.4 out to 454 cubes while you're at it,lol

 

[Jeepwalker]

Water pump: I wouldn't bother with the water pump ...just yet. Wait another 40k or so. Mine's got 172k mi on it and the original water pump. You just never know how long it'll last. Could be 70k more miles, or 2 weeks. But then, if you just want to be done with it, I guess it can't hurt. If they do that, then have them flush and replace the coolant with the 'Right' stuff. Because that would be a good thing to do as well.

Hoses: I don't change hoses as much anymore, like I did in the old days. But it can't hurt. I've got vehicles that have over 200k on them with original hoses. But never hurt to be safe than sorry. I guess if they change the water pump, yer right there to replace hoses anyway. Have them throw the old ones in the back of your truck. If you go on a longer vacation/drive, wouldn't hurt to have a spare with you.

Plugs: You're right on there. Make sure you get the old ones back so you can see how they look. Part of the process of replacing plugs is to look at each one as it's removed. They tell a story of the health of each cylinder.

Tranny: The other guys were right on that.

Clean Throttle Bore: That was a great suggestion given above. Do it. But make sure they put the f-ing rubber snorkel back on right ...and don't fold the rubber piece under the clamp (where it'll be sucking air in)

Suspension: One thing you (or a buddy) could do some time would be to put it up on jackstands sometime, then go around and press inward on the rubber steering boots. Like the tie rod ends and ball joints. Work that grease around. Even though they're non-greasable, getting 'some' grease on the 'ball' part of the joint helps out. I do it everytime I have mine up on jackstands.

Rust prevention: I don't know how trucks last down where you live ..you're kind of on the 'good' side of the rust/no-rust dividing line. But it would be a good idea to work the rocks dust and debris out of the areas where it builds up, mainly the rear wheel wells. And squirt some oil or whatever in the tailgate and rocker panels and bottom of the doors. Since you want to keep it forever.

U-joint: Little things matter. I would remove the rear of the rear driveshaft and rotate the u-joint caps ...and the joint itself as much as you can. Work that grease around. Just good preventative maintenance.

Belt & PCV: Change these as well while they're working on the engine.

CV axles: You might want to see how much 'slop' there is (if any) on the driver's side ..and pass side inner CV. I predict there's some. But if it's tolerable, let it slide till it gets worse. Eventually you'll probablby have to replace the intermediate shaft on the Driver's side and, I think there's a stub shaft on the pass side too. (and the CV axles too). They don't spin very fast so a little to moderate amount of free-play is tolerable at this point.

Tires: Inspect the tire wear. They tell a story. Cupping could mean worn shocks, or suspension parts, or poorly balanced tires. Deal with them sooner than later. Maybe get the tires re-balanced if they're still in good shape, or get a good balance job on like a Road Force balancer if/when you replace the tires. Poorly blaanced tires can lead to downstream driveline wear.

Inspection: Have the dealer go around and inspect things while it's on the hoist. Whatever they come up with, let us know. They might be things to tackle to prevent expensive repairs down the road.

Pre-buy OEM-only items: I replaced the seat cover on mine (2012) ...and I think I might have gotten one of the last few OEM covers left in the country. If there are oem-only items you think you'll need, order them ..because they'll sell out of them at some point. Don't expect to rely on aftermarket items like upholstery and certain interior items, unless you don't mind mis-matched and poor fitting items. You might get lucky and find ebay items though (where I got mine).

Good luck ...your truck is lucky to have a caring owner! LOL

 

[Mark A Palmer]

Thanks everybody.

I'm way past doing my own work, so I'll bend over for the dealer. I don't trust the aftermarket parts used by most places.

 

[Jeepwalker]

If you are going to have the dealer do it all, then you might as well have them do the waterpump, hoses and all that at once, since labor is a major component of the job.

Once they're in there they can do it all. But DO have them give it a thorough look-over and see what else they find. Sounds like a nice truck but 2016 is getting up there, esp if it was (potentially) manufactured in the fall of 2015.

 

[Jeepwalker]

If rust is a problem in your area, and you plan to keep it "for life" as you say, now is the time to address potential proactively. Stop it or slow it down, whichever might be the case. These Rams do rust. I'm starting to see 4th gens around here which are seriously rusted out, in our area. Rocker panels you can stick your hand through, rotted out cab corners, tailgates, and especially the rear (box) wheel arches.

Sure they use salt up here, but it's just an accelerated perspective of what can/will happen in border areas which do get snow/rain. The rear wheel arches of your truck's box, they collect dust/dirt/rocks and that debris doesn't fall out nor can you wash out the rocks with a pressure washer when they're lodged in there tight. I just cleaned out a couple hand-fulls of small rocks & debris from mine this fall.

Chances are nobody is going to spend the time it takes to clean that stuff out of your trucks rear wheel arches. But you could have a guy squirt some oil up there from the front-side of your rear wheel arches (there's a gap to get a squirt gun up there). Then it'll at least soak the dirt and help protect things.

Consider having the rockers and cab corners rustproofed by a local shop. Then it'll look as good as it runs ....10 years from now!

 

[Burla]

I would bet transfer case is black by now, way overdue.

 

[PaleFlyer]

Thanks everybody.

I'm way past doing my own work, so I'll bend over for the dealer. I don't trust the aftermarket parts used by most places.

My sister's old '08 civic (back in like '12/13, so not that old!) at the DEALER for some *cough* front end damage... Got an aftermarket rad, that lasted all of 3 days... When they were told to use OEM. So be careful you go to a GOOD dealer.

 

[PaleFlyer]

I see where this general subject has been discussed, but I want to make sure I get the concerns I have in. My 2016 4WD Crew Cab 8 Speed 5.7 V8 is just turning 100k and has been a good truck. I have every intentions of driving it forever unless I *** it up. I do want to keep things working, so I am considering the following maintenance work at 125k when it will need new tires.

1. Water Pump Replacement
2. Hoses and belts
3. Plugs and Wires
4. Differential Lube change
5. Switch to high mileage synthetic oil

I intend to have this work done at the dealer to ensure that only OEM parts go back into the truck.

I'm interested in what others have done at this mileage. Please share your thoughts. I will say that this is the first Chrysler product I have ever owned, and I think it is the best vehicle I have ever had. Good truck.

Just run Pennzoil Ultra Plat. My truck on 5-20 PP got about a 20% mileage boost, at about 60k, with an STP 10k filter. I put PUP 5-30 in, with a Royal Purp 20-500 filter *doesn't actually fit well on the 4x4 Rebel, but that's a future me issue. It's a clearance thing for replacement. I'm getting the same, or better mileage compared to the oil shop "full syn".

 

[Jeepwalker]

See my posts in the link below on cleaning rocks/debris out the rear wheel housings. It was a lot of work, something only 'lifers' are going to want to perform. Guys outside the rust belt don't need to worry about doing this. Cleaning the wheel arches is a good summer-day (or two) project. Doesn't need to be performed very often, unless a guy off-roads or runs a lot of gravel/dusty roads. Mine is pretty much a highway cruiser and had never been cleaned. After a thorough washing/drying, I treated the wheel wells with oil and then Stabil Rust Stopper. And sandblasted (repainted) a rust spot on the tailgate and treated with oil.

First Ram, First things to do?

Hey folks! Just finished purchasing my first Ram, a '16 1500 bighorn. Came with all the bells and whistles. After doing the test drive and reading a bit around here, I'd like to swap the speakers for sure. Maybe swap a later model's android-auto capable unit later on. And get started with...

www.ramforum.com

 

[Alweeja]

I need to follow these suggestions eventually since I only have 45k on my 2015. Tires will be my next INVESTMENT

 

[Floyd1979]

I see where this general subject has been discussed, but I want to make sure I get the concerns I have in. My 2016 4WD Crew Cab 8 Speed 5.7 V8 is just turning 100k and has been a good truck. I have every intentions of driving it forever unless I *** it up. I do want to keep things working, so I am considering the following maintenance work at 125k when it will need new tires.

1. Water Pump Replacement
2. Hoses and belts
3. Plugs and Wires
4. Differential Lube change
5. Switch to high mileage synthetic oil

I intend to have this work done at the dealer to ensure that only OEM parts go back into the truck.

I'm interested in what others have done at this mileage. Please share your thoughts. I will say that this is the first Chrysler product I have ever owned, and I think it is the best vehicle I have ever had. Good truck.

2009 I had I put 442,150 miles on it . Had lifetime power train warranty and then bought Maxcare lifetime warranty
1st fuel pump and water pump did not go out till around 240,000 miles .

I kept the truck in warranty for major items . Oil change ( ran regular oil)
Transmission fluid change , rear differential oil change.

Around 325,000 miles the MDS went out , while in there fixing that they did replace cam and lifters .

The list of parts not replaced
Starter
Upper/lower ball joints
Drive shaft u joints .

The latest list of replacement items
Exhaust manifold / bolts 3 or 4 xs
Fuel / water pumps 2xs
Radiator
Front wheel bearings 2 xs , the 3rd one over 400,000 ram said it was a wear and tear item now.
Blower fan motor 2xs
ECM
I think 2-3 batteries
People say Ramboxes want hold up
All my Rams Lonestar hemi 2009 Ramboxes
2015 Longhorn special order crewcab air suspension,Rambox Ecodiesel ( bad engine ) another story.
2019 replacement of Ecodiesel
Longhorn Megacab 4 wd, Rambox
Cummins 2500
2020 Lonestar crewcab Rambox hemi
Sold the 2009 , guy at work still driving it , 2020 has 106,000 miles
7 yr Maxcare unlimited miles , will do the same with this one .
Note : 2020 , 35,000 cracked exhaust manifold (1)
Wheel bearings , 100,000
Replaced spark plugs 101,000
Dealer does all my oil changes
Thanks

 

[Dusty]

Water pump: I wouldn't bother with the water pump ...just yet. Wait another 40k or so. Mine's got 172k mi on it and the original water pump. You just never know how long it'll last. Could be 70k more miles, or 2 weeks. But then, if you just want to be done with it, I guess it can't hurt. If they do that, then have them flush and replace the coolant with the 'Right' stuff. Because that would be a good thing to do as well.

Hoses: I don't change hoses as much anymore, like I did in the old days. But it can't hurt. I've got vehicles that have over 200k on them with original hoses. But never hurt to be safe than sorry. I guess if they change the water pump, yer right there to replace hoses anyway. Have them throw the old ones in the back of your truck. If you go on a longer vacation/drive, wouldn't hurt to have a spare with you.

Plugs: You're right on there. Make sure you get the old ones back so you can see how they look. Part of the process of replacing plugs is to look at each one as it's removed. They tell a story of the health of each cylinder.

Tranny: The other guys were right on that.

Clean Throttle Bore: That was a great suggestion given above. Do it. But make sure they put the f-ing rubber snorkel back on right ...and don't fold the rubber piece under the clamp (where it'll be sucking air in)

Suspension: One thing you (or a buddy) could do some time would be to put it up on jackstands sometime, then go around and press inward on the rubber steering boots. Like the tie rod ends and ball joints. Work that grease around. Even though they're non-greasable, getting 'some' grease on the 'ball' part of the joint helps out. I do it everytime I have mine up on jackstands.

Rust prevention: I don't know how trucks last down where you live ..you're kind of on the 'good' side of the rust/no-rust dividing line. But it would be a good idea to work the rocks dust and debris out of the areas where it builds up, mainly the rear wheel wells. And squirt some oil or whatever in the tailgate and rocker panels and bottom of the doors. Since you want to keep it forever.

U-joint: Little things matter. I would remove the rear of the rear driveshaft and rotate the u-joint caps ...and the joint itself as much as you can. Work that grease around. Just good preventative maintenance.

Belt & PCV: Change these as well while they're working on the engine.

CV axles: You might want to see how much 'slop' there is (if any) on the driver's side ..and pass side inner CV. I predict there's some. But if it's tolerable, let it slide till it gets worse. Eventually you'll probablby have to replace the intermediate shaft on the Driver's side and, I think there's a stub shaft on the pass side too. (and the CV axles too). They don't spin very fast so a little to moderate amount of free-play is tolerable at this point.

Tires: Inspect the tire wear. They tell a story. Cupping could mean worn shocks, or suspension parts, or poorly balanced tires. Deal with them sooner than later. Maybe get the tires re-balanced if they're still in good shape, or get a good balance job on like a Road Force balancer if/when you replace the tires. Poorly blaanced tires can lead to downstream driveline wear.

Inspection: Have the dealer go around and inspect things while it's on the hoist. Whatever they come up with, let us know. They might be things to tackle to prevent expensive repairs down the road.

Pre-buy OEM-only items: I replaced the seat cover on mine (2012) ...and I think I might have gotten one of the last few OEM covers left in the country. If there are oem-only items you think you'll need, order them ..because they'll sell out of them at some point. Don't expect to rely on aftermarket items like upholstery and certain interior items, unless you don't mind mis-matched and poor fitting items. You might get lucky and find ebay items though (where I got mine).

Good luck ...your truck is lucky to have a caring owner! LOL

That was a good post, Jeepwalker.

Regarding the water pump and hoses. Back a few years ago I would occasionally hear of a bad water pump on a 5.7, but its been quite awhile now since I heard of the last. I suspect the water pump supplier in the earlier years was the issue. Just check it for end play and signs of coolant leaking.

If it gives one piece of mind, change the hoses. But I think that's another very low failure rate, especially in the years of the subject truck.

Discussing ZF Transmission fluid changes (or motor oil, for that matter) is prone to provoke emotionally triggered responses. I'll give you my perspective: lubricants operating is a mechanical system exposed to friction, shearing, temperature, and even moisture, will degrade over time in some manner.

I recently was prepared to have a fluid and filter change at 75,000 miles, but my tech. took a number of readings with his scan tool to determine internal condition. His opinion was the fluid and transmission was still very healthy. However, I am still planning to change it out next summer since I do some 7000 lb. towing several times a year.

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, factory dual exhaust, 18” wheels. Build date: 3 June 2018. Now at 80716 miles

 

[Wild one]

That was a good post, Jeepwalker.

Regarding the water pump and hoses. Back a few years ago I would occasionally hear of a bad water pump on a 5.7, but its been quite awhile now since I heard of the last. I suspect the water pump supplier in the earlier years was the issue. Just check it for end play and signs of coolant leaking.

If it gives one piece of mind, change the hoses. But I think that's another very low failure rate, especially in the years of the subject truck.

Discussing ZF Transmission fluid changes (or motor oil, for that matter) is prone to provoke emotionally triggered responses. I'll give you my perspective: lubricants operating is a mechanical system exposed to friction, shearing, temperature, and even moisture, will degrade over time in some manner.

I recently was prepared to have a fluid and filter change at 75,000 miles, but my tech. took a number of readings with his scan tool to determine internal condition. His opinion was the fluid and transmission was still very healthy. However, I am still planning to change it out next summer since I do some 7000 lb. towing several times a year.

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, factory dual exhaust, 18” wheels. Build date: 3 June 2018. Now at 80716 miles

The cars are still going through water pumps,so i don't think they changed water pump manufacture's

 

[Tom6363]

My 2014 6.4 with 125k is in the shop getting a new crate 6.4.....pos. The dealer I bought it at doesn't even know why it can't maintain oil pressure. Crap engine for me, the original was replaced at 5k....yes 5k. There won't be a 4th engine. I would suggest you trade it in.

 

[huntergreen]

I see where this general subject has been discussed, but I want to make sure I get the concerns I have in. My 2016 4WD Crew Cab 8 Speed 5.7 V8 is just turning 100k and has been a good truck. I have every intentions of driving it forever unless I *** it up. I do want to keep things working, so I am considering the following maintenance work at 125k when it will need new tires.

1. Water Pump Replacement
2. Hoses and belts
3. Plugs and Wires
4. Differential Lube change
5. Switch to high mileage synthetic oil

I intend to have this work done at the dealer to ensure that only OEM parts go back into the truck.

I'm interested in what others have done at this mileage. Please share your thoughts. I will say that this is the first Chrysler product I have ever owned, and I think it is the best vehicle I have ever had. Good truck.

Why change the water pump if your not having issues?

 

[06 Dodge]

Why change the water pump if your not having issues?

Its called Preventive Maintenance = PM, I do PM stuff like cooling system on my diesel at 100K, its cheaper to do PM work at home then then having a problem when away from home...