MDS question

[OCDTech]

Oh i just read my response to RVGuys post and realized how that might look, I was genuinely thanking him for responding. Lol Got to be more careful how i word.

 

[rotwiler]

Can i ask if you have had any exhaust manifold bolts replaced? I have a theory, and only a theory at this point, that running for an extended period of time with MDS on, ( Two cylinders of fire shooting in the manifold, and two cold) ,may add to the stress of the heat difference in the manifold causing the bolts to break. If you haven't, may have saved you this headache as well. Haven't got to ask anyone whose run without MDS for so long. I bought my truck with 10,000 miles and have always run MDS off. And from what i read don't really think it saves much gas.

Had my passenger side bolts replaced under warranty at around 45k miles. Think I may have a bolt broken now, no odd sound really, but when passenger bolts broke, I noticed the truck doing same thing as my 05 Hemi Durango. When first started after sitting, idle would stay high, almost sound like a huge fan was running when I first started driving for first minute or so. So when I went to dealer about a bad shift solenoid I figured, tell them I think a bolt is broken. They found broken bolts, then in past 3 weeks noticed idles odd like before, so thinking it's a bolt again. If is, will just do headers. Best oil for these hemis is Penz ultra platinum, I buy it on sale($20 for a big jug), then I buy either mopar or Purolator boss filters, and add lubeguard biotech to give the engine extra moly. Never buy the k&n filter with the socket adaptor welded on end. I had bad experience where they drilled through the holes too far in the socket thing or something, because the filter started losing oil through the filter socket thing holes. I called k&n, they wanted me to ship at my expense the filter back, I was like, this is bs, I wasn't going to ship a oily filter and have to pay more for shipping than the filter cost me, so I bit the bullet and never bought another k&n with socket adaptor on it. I am not a k&n hater, I have k&n Cai in my Camaro ss, k&n drop in filter in my Ram and Durango, in my wife's Kia optima Turbo, in her gmc terrain etc and do use the regular k&n filters at times. Was my wife's Turbo Kia the filter was leaking, luckily I caught it in time after seeing drip as she drove away, her Kia takes like 4.5 quarts of oil, when I found filter was bad, 2.5 quarts was left, could have blown motor.

 

[OCDTech]

Had my passenger side bolts replaced under warranty at around 45k miles. Think I may have a bolt broken now, no odd sound really, but when passenger bolts broke, I noticed the truck doing same thing as my 05 Hemi Durango. When first started after sitting, idle would stay high, almost sound like a huge fan was running when I first started driving for first minute or so. So when I went to dealer about a bad shift solenoid I figured, tell them I think a bolt is broken. They found broken bolts, then in past 3 weeks noticed idles odd like before, so thinking it's a bolt again. If is, will just do headers. Best oil for these hemis is Penz ultra platinum, I buy it on sale($20 for a big jug), then I buy either mopar or Purolator boss filters, and add lubeguard biotech to give the engine extra moly. Never buy the k&n filter with the socket adaptor welded on end. I had bad experience where they drilled through the holes too far in the socket thing or something, because the filter started losing oil through the filter socket thing holes. I called k&n, they wanted me to ship at my expense the filter back, I was like, this is bs, I wasn't going to ship a oily filter and have to pay more for shipping than the filter cost me, so I bit the bullet and never bought another k&n with socket adaptor on it. I am not a k&n hater, I have k&n Cai in my Camaro ss, k&n drop in filter in my Ram and Durango, in my wife's Kia optima Turbo, in her gmc terrain etc and do use the regular k&n filters at times. Was my wife's Turbo Kia the filter was leaking, luckily I caught it in time after seeing drip as she drove away, her Kia takes like 4.5 quarts of oil, when I found filter was bad, 2.5 quarts was left, could have blown motor.

I use royal purple (small) filter just from what some recommend on here. I've always used a rubber strap wrench to loosen the oil filters, or sometimes the metal cup thing with spring hinges, fits on a socket extension. I go a long time between oil changes once a year, don't drive truck but 5,000 miles/year or so. Thats reason for the synthetic filter also. Glad you didn't blow that engine, i've seen those type of filters never have used one.

 

[rotwiler]

I started using the Purolator synthetic boss filters because they say 15,000 miles, I never go past like 7k but piece of mind. Plus I found the boss filters for like $8 and seen reviews showing how well made they are. Royal purple is good filter. I've stuck with pup in the Ram due to everything i read about hemis need moly, so is reason I add the lubeguard biotech(I actually use the lubeguard heavy duty) which is just bigger biotech container for fleet vehicles etc. The Ram is first vehicle I actually kept a catch can on it, catches a good amount, just have to remember to empty. I emptied it in July, forgot, emptied it a couple weeks ago and was like 1/2 inch from top, ugh. I don't drive a ton, bought truck with 29k miles, in 3 years I have had it, put less than 30k miles, so about 9-10k a year.

 

[OCDTech]

Royal purple is good filter.

I've heard the same of purolator. On the catch can, i thought only direct injection engines had the coking problems, the one thing i haven't researched is does anyone have issues that don't use catch cans. Are our injectors not squirting on the backs of the valves? At least i'm almost positive that the hemi is not direct injection.

 

[rotwiler]

Keeps crud out, if i forget again to empty, I will remove it. Catch can is not needed, can it help keep some parts clean, ya, but can cause issues if fills up and forget to empty.

 

[OCDTech]

I see, and do agree less crud is better no matter what.

 

[RVGuy]

I've heard the same of purolator. On the catch can, i thought only direct injection engines had the coking problems, the one thing i haven't researched is does anyone have issues that don't use catch cans. Are our injectors not squirting on the backs of the valves? At least i'm almost positive that the hemi is not direct injection.

We're port injection, I don't have a catch can. Never had a problem.
If I were to buy another Hemi tomorrow brand new I'd likely put one on though. It's cheap and it can only help the engine in the long run. I just don't see the point in putting one on mine with over 150k on it already.

 

[OCDTech]

We're port injection, I don't have a catch can. Never had a problem.
If I were to buy another Hemi tomorrow brand new I'd likely put one on though. It's cheap and it can only help the engine in the long run. I just don't see the point in putting one on mine with over 150k on it already.

I sure hope i get that mileage out of mine, 8speed? Ever change fluid?

 

[Brandon-w]

Keeps crud out, if i forget again to empty, I will remove it. Catch can is not needed, can it help keep some parts clean, ya, but can cause issues if fills up and forget to empty.

Just empty it every fuel up. Then u won't have any worries.

 

[RVGuy]

I sure hope i get that mileage out of mine, 8speed? Ever change fluid?

6 speed, dropped the pan and did fluid and filters at 120k (I'm following the service manual to the letter to see what happens). Fluid was still red, nothing weird to report. Refilled, nothing changed still shifts like the day it rolled off the lot.
Did the transfer case at the same time, fluid looked like the new fluid.
I've done both diffs 3 times, rear looked new every time. First change on the rear I pulled the cover to look for flakes and there weren't any. Front was a little darker than new on first change.
Oil has always been conventional, changed every 5k, always comes out looking the same as the new. No oil consumption at all.
Flushed coolant at 150k.

Literally the only problem I have other than the manifold bolt being broken is my AC doesn't work. I have a leak somewhere and the refrigerant is dealer only, was quoted some crazy high number like $2k to fix it. So I just bought window vent guards and leave my windows cracked all summer. Oh and I've done 3 CV axles in the past 3 years.

 

[OCDTech]

Wow, that is great service out of a truck, i'm good at maintenance too, and will be. As for the a/c yea you probably have the new 1234yf. Extremely expensive, still so new i suppose. Thanks for the info.

 

[RVGuy]

Wow, that is great service out of a truck, i'm good at maintenance too, and will be. As for the a/c yea you probably have the new 1234yf. Extremely expensive, still so new i suppose. Thanks for the info.

I'm pretty happy with it. I'm paranoid about these lifters/cam issues I keep reading though. Every time I go through a drive through all I can hear is the sewing machine sound from the engine and it drives me nuts but it's done it since brand new. Every Hemi I've started on a dealership lot sounds the same. 75% of the Hemis I see on the road sound worse!

I'm pretty sure I'll be off loading this truck in the next year or two, and I'm not sure I'll get another Hemi. Even though this one hasn't failed me, I'm too paranoid about it now.

 

[Ratket]

Wether you run mds or not, the weak link is still there... hope it all works out for you.

 

[OCDTech]

Wether you run mds or not, the weak link is still there... hope it all works out for you.

I know but more than the worry of the bolts, i absolutely cannot stand the lengthy delay of the MDS going from 4 cyl to the 8 when i give it a little gas, sure i could gouge it but i don't wanna do that either. Just alot smoother.

 

[RVGuy]

I don't know how the 8 speed shifts but here's my theory.
My 6 speed lugs the engine. If I let it shift how it's programmed I've noticed a lot of times it tries to climb hills or accelerate at 1000rpm (5th gear at 30mph) and will not downshift. I can't see how that's not hurting anything, I can hear and feel the engine struggling at that speed.

I've been driving in tow/haul for about the last 100k to stop it from doing this. I feel like that actually might be one of the causes for the issues on this engine.

 

[OCDTech]

That may be one thing they've changed somewhat on the 8 its fairly sensitive to throttle press. As soon as i give it a little it will downshift one gear, i like it. I don't like lugging engines either.

 

[RVGuy]

I figured the 8 would be better, more ratios to choose from below 1:1
The gap between 2nd and 4th (6 speed doesn't use 3rd for upshifting) is pretty large, and then 4th to 5th is pretty big. 5th to 6th is almost unnoticeable they're so close together, almost pointless.

 

[Brandon-w]

Wow, that is great service out of a truck, i'm good at maintenance too, and will be. As for the a/c yea you probably have the new 1234yf. Extremely expensive, still so new i suppose. Thanks for the info.

I got the ac low pressure line from a 2010 ram and modified it for my 2015 so I could recharge it myself with r134a it works quite well.

 

[OCDTech]

I got the ac low pressure line from a 2010 ram and modified it for my 2015 so I could recharge it myself with r134a it works quite well.

More good to know information. Nice to know you can take that new stuff out and retro the 134.