Morimoto mopar elite HID kit help

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PumpkinStealer

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Hey all,

I've had my morimoto mopar elite 15+ kit for maybe 6 months now and have had the same issue with them throwing a headlight out code the whole time. I had originally messed around with it for awhile and even contacted morimoto/TRS and they basically told me they know about it don't know how to fix it yet or why it happens.

Then winter came so I have up, but now it's warming up so I want to try again.

It throws a short circuit to ground fault. Also, the resistor doesn't get hot at all. I tried flipping components back and forth but to no avail.

Everything works fine otherwise. Just the annoying bulb out message whenever I start my truck.

Any ideas would be much appreciated.
 

mpress2570

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Hey all,

I've had my morimoto mopar elite 15+ kit for maybe 6 months now and have had the same issue with them throwing a headlight out code the whole time. I had originally messed around with it for awhile and even contacted morimoto/TRS and they basically told me they know about it don't know how to fix it yet or why it happens.

Then winter came so I have up, but now it's warming up so I want to try again.

It throws a short circuit to ground fault. Also, the resistor doesn't get hot at all. I tried flipping components back and forth but to no avail.

Everything works fine otherwise. Just the annoying bulb out message whenever I start my truck.

Any ideas would be much appreciated.

Throw them a security deposit and tell them to send you a new harness and a new resistor. Replace the resistor that does not get hot and the harness. They’ll refund you when they get your old one back. I came to the conclusion it’s just easier to have them sent new stuff and have them figure out the problem when they get the old stuff back. I had an issue with a bulb constantly blowing out tried all sorts of stuff then told them screw it send me a whole new kit and they had me pay a security deposit. Installed it and everything worked fine ever since. Come to find out from them the harness was bad


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PumpkinStealer

PumpkinStealer

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Throw them a security deposit and tell them to send you a new harness and a new resistor. Replace the resistor that does not get hot and the harness. They’ll refund you when they get your old one back. I came to the conclusion it’s just easier to have them sent new stuff and have them figure out the problem when they get the old stuff back. I had an issue with a bulb constantly blowing out tried all sorts of stuff then told them screw it send me a whole new kit and they had me pay a security deposit. Installed it and everything worked fine ever since. Come to find out from them the harness was bad


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I'll try looking into this. They already tried giving me a new resistor and it didn't help so maybe the harness itself is the problem. They also had to replace a ballast because the opposite side one went out.
 

mpress2570

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I'll try looking into this. They already tried giving me a new resistor and it didn't help so maybe the harness itself is the problem. They also had to replace a ballast because the opposite side one went out.

Our trucks don’t play well with upgrades that have any electric components. That’s the reason I went with their xb headlights. The hid kit was working fine for over a year after that hiccup but still could rest easy knowing I don’t have to mess with hid anymore at the cost of a little less luminosity


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PumpkinStealer

PumpkinStealer

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Our trucks don’t play well with upgrades that have any electric components. That’s the reason I went with their xb headlights. The hid kit was working fine for over a year after that hiccup but still could rest easy knowing I don’t have to mess with hid anymore at the cost of a little less luminosity


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If that is the case I am almost thinking I should just leave it since it is working fine.
 

mpress2570

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If that is the case I am almost thinking I should just leave it since it is working fine.

Nah hid kits aren’t unreliable enough to deal with what you got. I’d definitely replace them.


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Spud2388

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My suggestion, AlfaOBD. Its about a $150 investment but you can quickly change the setting to the l;ow beams being HID and not have any of these errors at all. Use a SIMPLE relay harness, skip all the resistors, capacitors, ********* and have it working like it should.
 

mpress2570

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My suggestion, AlfaOBD. Its about a $150 investment but you can quickly change the setting to the l;ow beams being HID and not have any of these errors at all. Use a SIMPLE relay harness, skip all the resistors, capacitors, ********* and have it working like it should.

I feel like this is just a bandaid if he does in fact have a bad harness


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Spud2388

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I feel like this is just a bandaid if he does in fact have a bad harness


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I will agree with that 100%. But the ability to simplify things and not have all the extras might be something to look into. Just a suggestion.
 

mpress2570

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I will agree with that 100%. But the ability to simplify things and not have all the extras might be something to look into. Just a suggestion.

I would first replace the harness then invest in an Alfa


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RedSRT4Me

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I feel like this is just a bandaid if he does in fact have a bad harness


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It's not a bandaid. It gives you the ability to remove the harness and fix the bulb out errors.

I've run just bulbs, ballasts and ignitors along with alpha for 4 months without a single hiccup. No harness, no bulb out errors, and a clean installation
 

mpress2570

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It's not a bandaid. It gives you the ability to remove the harness and fix the bulb out errors.

I've run just bulbs, ballasts and ignitors along with alpha for 4 months without a single hiccup. No harness, no bulb out errors, and a clean installation

Yes but the resistors are supposed to work with the harness. If the harness isn’t sending current through the resistor then there is an issue there with the harness. Your method isn’t addressing whatever has gone wrong with the system and more problems may come up in the future if it is a bad harness


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Jimmy07

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Yes but the resistors are supposed to work with the harness. If the harness isn’t sending current through the resistor then there is an issue there with the harness. Your method isn’t addressing whatever has gone wrong with the system and more problems may come up in the future if it is a bad harness


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If we’re talking about the problem being in relay harness or resistors, then yes, the AlfaOBD will solve the issue, because it eliminates the need for the relay harness and resistors all together. The only thing needed is bulb, igniter, and ballast.
 

mpress2570

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If we’re talking about the problem being in relay harness or resistors, then yes, the AlfaOBD will solve the issue, because it eliminates the need for the relay harness and resistors all together. The only thing needed is bulb, igniter, and ballast.

You’re not getting the point. Whether the error goes away or not there’s still an issue with that component. That could cause other problems down the road. The resistor and the need for one is not the problem here


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Jimmy07

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Then which component are you referring to? In this post, you want him to get a new harness and resistor, and that solved the problem you had.
Throw them a security deposit and tell them to send you a new harness and a new resistor. Replace the resistor that does not get hot and the harness. They’ll refund you when they get your old one back. I came to the conclusion it’s just easier to have them sent new stuff and have them figure out the problem when they get the old stuff back. I had an issue with a bulb constantly blowing out tried all sorts of stuff then told them screw it send me a whole new kit and they had me pay a security deposit. Installed it and everything worked fine ever since. Come to find out from them the harness was bad


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So, unless you think that either the bulb, igniter, ballast, or the truck’s wiring is the issue, then the alfa will solve his problem. He can then remove the harness and resistors from the truck and throw them away. Then he doesn’t ever have to worry about those two items again, because they are no longer part of the equation.
 

mpress2570

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Then which component are you referring to? In this post, you want him to get a new harness and resistor, and that solved the problem you had.
So, unless you think that either the bulb, igniter, ballast, or the truck’s wiring is the issue, then the alfa will solve his problem. He can then remove the harness and resistors from the truck and throw them away. Then he doesn’t ever have to worry about those two items again, because they are no longer part of the equation.

I would not run the kit without the harness. The harness has 2 relays on it. I’d rather blow those if something fails than blow a relay on the truck


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Jimmy07

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I would not run the kit without the harness. The harness has 2 relays on it. I’d rather blow those if something fails than blow a relay on the truck


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The purpose of the relays is to deal with the PWM provided by the BCM to the low beam circuit by getting a consistent power source for the ballasts straight from the battery. The reality is, it’s the relay harness and resistors that are the band aid. This is why hid kits are sold as bulb, ballast, and igniter. Then, as optional equipment, the resistors and relay harness are offered as a band aid to deal with picky vehicles. The actual fix is to change the truck’s programming to shut down the PWM in order to provide the ballasts with consistent power, therefore negating the need for the optional equipment. This is the very reason that FCA built the HID headlight feature into the BCM.

Now, if one were using 55w ballasts, then it would be a good idea to stick with the relay harness. But, 55w ballasts aren’t worth the hassle because you get barely noticeable output gain at the cost of wasted energy and unnecessary heat put on the wiring and connectors, and the fact that they’re marketed towards those that think bigger is better.
 

mpress2570

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The purpose of the relays is to deal with the PWM provided by the BCM to the low beam circuit by getting a consistent power source for the ballasts straight from the battery. The reality is, it’s the relay harness and resistors that are the band aid. This is why hid kits are sold as bulb, ballast, and igniter. Then, as optional equipment, the resistors and relay harness are offered as a band aid to deal with picky vehicles. The actual fix is to change the truck’s programming to shut down the PWM in order to provide the ballasts with consistent power, therefore negating the need for the optional equipment. This is the very reason that FCA built the HID headlight feature into the BCM.

Now, if one were using 55w ballasts, then it would be a good idea to stick with the relay harness. But, 55w ballasts aren’t worth the hassle because you get barely noticeable output gain at the cost of wasted energy and unnecessary heat put on the wiring and connectors, and the fact that they’re marketed towards those that think bigger is better.

55w is what I had in my truck before I got the xb led housings and they were perfectly fine no melted wires or housings functioned perfectly and were significantly brighter than the 35w kit in my charger. Definitely far from barely noticeable. Any way you swing it if something were to fail on the system (because let’s face it any aftermarket HID kit is finicky) the relays on the harness will pop and not the relays on the truck which is a much better alternative.

Charger Morimoto 35w 6500k in projectors
61543b5104b5b33edf5d2cfe61f51014.jpg

Ram Morimoto 55w 6500k in projectors 49513f77d9e510ed1eccaac0b9ce059f.jpg


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PumpkinStealer

PumpkinStealer

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I already have an OBDLinkmx and Alfa. Maybe I'll mess around with it a little and see if I can't get it to work before I contact TRS again. That way I don't have to fuss around with putting the stock bulbs back in while I wait.
 

mpress2570

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I already have an OBDLinkmx and Alfa. Maybe I'll mess around with it a little and see if I can't get it to work before I contact TRS again. That way I don't have to fuss around with putting the stock bulbs back in while I wait.

As long as you put down a deposit for their security you shouldn’t have to put the stocks back in and wait if you’re wanting to replace anything


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