Morimoto mopar elite HID kit help

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nick00less

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The purpose of the relays is to deal with the PWM provided by the BCM to the low beam circuit by getting a consistent power source for the ballasts straight from the battery. The reality is, it’s the relay harness and resistors that are the band aid. This is why hid kits are sold as bulb, ballast, and igniter. Then, as optional equipment, the resistors and relay harness are offered as a band aid to deal with picky vehicles. The actual fix is to change the truck’s programming to shut down the PWM in order to provide the ballasts with consistent power, therefore negating the need for the optional equipment. This is the very reason that FCA built the HID headlight feature into the BCM.

Now, if one were using 55w ballasts, then it would be a good idea to stick with the relay harness. But, 55w ballasts aren’t worth the hassle because you get barely noticeable output gain at the cost of wasted energy and unnecessary heat put on the wiring and connectors, and the fact that they’re marketed towards those that think bigger is better.

Your gah damn right. TRS Kit IS THE BANDAID. When will people finally realize you don’t need bandaid wiring kits on these trucks anymore?!??

I too changed my BCM in my 2018 to enable HID’s. Guess what folks. That special 2015+ mopar harness is in the trash.

My trucks headlight harness is now DIRECTLY connected to my ballast. No special harness. No nothing. I’ve had zero issues since switching over and I’ll never go back.

I’m not the only one either..more people are coming to the light.
 

nick00less

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You’re not getting the point. Whether the error goes away or not there’s still an issue with that component. That could cause other problems down the road. The resistor and the need for one is not the problem here


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No, and forgive me here, YOU’RE not getting the point. The harness from the retro fit source IS the bandaid. What you’re suggesting is trying to fix the bandaid when there’s a clear cut solution!

Your solution is keep replacing the bandaid on the kid who hits his knee everyday on the sidewalk. Our solution is remove the sidewalk so he never hits his knee again!

I’m not attacking you I just strongly disagree.
 

mpress2570

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No, and forgive me here, it YOU’RE not getting the point. The harness from the retro fit source IS the bandaid. What you’re suggesting is trying to fix the bandaid when there’s a clear cut solution!

Your solution is keep replacing the bandaid on the kid who hits his knee everyday on the sidewalk. Our solution is remove the sidewalk so he never hits his knee again!

I’m not attacking you I just strongly disagree.

You’re not understanding that the harness is a failsafe. I’d put a harness with relays on a noncanbus system also. You absolutely never trust an aftermarket hid kit. That harness should be there at all times so your not blowing relays that are on your vehicle that aren’t just connected to the headlights like the relays on the harness are. Alfaobd or not I want that harness there. My buddies Silverado had is factory wire harness fried by an hid kit. Has he had an hid harness he wouldn’t have had that problem.


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nick00less

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You’re not understanding that the harness is a failsafe. I’d put a harness with relays on a noncanbus system also. You absolutely never trust an aftermarket hid kit. That harness should be there at all times so your not blowing relays that are on your vehicle that aren’t just connected to the headlights like the relays on the harness are. Alfaobd or not I want that harness there. My buddies Silverado had is factory wire harness fried by an hid kit. Has he had an hid harness he wouldn’t have had that problem.


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You do realize that HID kits draw less power than a halogen bulb. Less amperage and low current draw.

So how exactly might a wiring harness “fry” from a system that’s running less power? I’m genuinely curious. Let’s focus on that for a brief moment. Give me a scenario that could cause your wiring harness to spontaneously meltdown.

Let’s put aside the hysteria for a second on why harness’s are “beneficial”. I get that part. And I’ll go so far as agree they serve a purpose: provide consistent power. However I don’t get why I’m tethering myself to a 50’ safety rope when all I’m doing is hopping from the curb to the street. A 6” drop.
 

mpress2570

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Less current does not mean it doesn’t get hot and something cant short out. Something failed inside the ballast whether it was a short or what the ballast got hot and melted and it took the factory harness and connector with it. And for whatever reason it didn’t blow a relay. It just ran like that until it melted.


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nick00less

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Less current does not mean it doesn’t get hot and something cant short out. Something failed inside the ballast whether it was a short or what the ballast got hot and melted and it took the factory harness and connector with it. And for whatever reason it didn’t blow a relay. It just ran like that until it melted.


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Understood.

I’ve enjoyed spending this time debating headlights with you. I must now put this conversation on pause and go heat up some left over chicken enchiladas. I’m getting a little hangry. :)
 

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