Multiple Broken Exhaust Manifold Bolts

[PaKl0518]

I took my truck (2017 Ram 1500) to the mechanic for a quote to replace the warped exhaust manifold and as expected this would be a costly fix because of already two broken bolts and possibly more once they start the job. He suggested that best way to go about this would be removing the engine to get better access to tight locations. Additionally, they suggested that because the truck has 104K miles it would be a perfect time to replace spark plugs, belts, hoses etc while the engine is out.
I understand that it’s a lot easier to work on the engine when it’s sitting on the stand but is this mechanic full of crap or has some of you actually done something like this?

 

[PA Ram]

I took my truck (2017 Ram 1500) to the mechanic for a quote to replace the warped exhaust manifold and as expected this would be a costly fix because of already two broken bolts and possibly more once they start the job. He suggested that best way to go about this would be removing the engine to get better access to tight locations. Additionally, they suggested that because the truck has 104K miles it would be a perfect time to replace spark plugs, belts, hoses etc while the engine is out.
I understand that it’s a lot easier to work on the engine when it’s sitting on the stand but is this mechanic full of crap or has some of you actually done something like this?

I did my own at home, it's not that hard. You need to weld nuts to extract the broken bolts to make it easier. I used BD performance manifolds. They don't add any performance,but are better built and the bolt system is supposed to prevent breaking bolts. Passenger side has lots of room, driver side is a little more difficult if you have 4 wheel drive. I disconnected my steering knuckle and moved the oil dipstick a bit to have enough room.

 

[diymirage]

if thats how he thinks it needs to be done on a 1500, i would strongly suggest you get a second opinion...and run with it

 

[EdGs]

Do you have a 2wd or 4wd?

Drivers side manifold is harder to remove on 4wd, IMO.

If that mechanic thinks you need to remove the engine, run away as fast as you can.

The weld-a-nut-to-the-broken-stud method is the best way to remove the bolts that are broken flush with the cylinder head.

Once the exhaust manifold is out, it can be sanded flat on a belt sander and once reinstalled with a new gasket and hardware, will never give you another issue

 

[Highway]

Do you have a 2wd or 4wd?

Drivers side manifold is harder to remove on 4wd, IMO.

If that mechanic thinks you need to remove the engine, run away as fast as you can.

The weld-a-nut-to-the-broken-stud method is the best way to remove the bolts that are broken flush with the cylinder head.

Once the exhaust manifold is out, it can be sanded flat on a belt sander and once reinstalled with a new gasket and hardware, will never give you another isst

This is what i did, not hard at all. Welded a washer to broken stud and welded a nut to the washer and threaded it out

 

[Ken226]

I took my truck (2017 Ram 1500) to the mechanic for a quote to replace the warped exhaust manifold and as expected this would be a costly fix because of already two broken bolts and possibly more once they start the job. He suggested that best way to go about this would be removing the engine to get better access to tight locations.

He's wrong about this. It's pretty easy to do without removing the engine. I've done it about 5 times. The hardest part is that on the drivers side, there is only ONE orientation of the un-attached exhaust manifold that allows you to fish it out without removing the dipstick tube. Find that orientation and it will come out just fine.

Additionally, they suggested that because the truck has 104K miles it would be a perfect time to replace spark plugs, belts, hoses etc while the engine is out.
I understand that it’s a lot easier to work on the engine when it’s sitting on the stand but is this mechanic full of crap or has some of you actually done something like this?

He's right about replacing all of that stuff, but NOT with the engine out. It can all be replaced pretty easily with the engine in place.

 

[Bigskyroadglide]

It's 2 to 3 hours a side, max. Even with broken bolts. Take off front wheel, drop inner fender, take off exhaust manifold extract broken bolts, change plugs while you have everything out of the way, sand manifold and re install new bolts.

I've done it enough I probably could do both sides including maintenance like plugs in a single day, and still take a lunch break and the union required 15 minute breaks in the morning and afternoon.

Taking the engine out to do this would be overwhelming

 

[Daw14]

Find a mechanic.

 

[EdGs]

The hardest part is that on the drivers side, there is only ONE orientation of the un-attached exhaust manifold that allows you to fish it out without removing the dipstick tube. Find that orientation and it will come out just fine.

I d*cked around with mine for what seemed like 2 hours or more, and no matter how I oriented it, no dice.

On my 2wd, the bottom dipstick bolt was easy to remove. Once I did that, I clamped a small pair of curved-jaw visegrips lightly to the base of the dipstick tube and tapped them upward with a hammer. The dipstick tube popped right out, and I was able to remove the exhaust manifold easily.

Installed the sanded-flat manifold and tapped the visegrips down to reinstall the dipstick tube, and all was well in the world.

My exhaust manifold bolt saga

2015 Ram 1500 SLT QC 5.7L 2WD 110,824 miles on the odo. Well, I have been noticing a cold-start tick on passenger side that subsides after warm-up. Been hearing it for awhile (hoping that I wasn't hearing it), tugged on the heat shield, and it appears the top rear stud has parted. Too early...

www.ramforum.com

I am 83k miles past the repair with no issues.

 

[mikeru]

Sounds like he wants to make some money off you in the form of labor. My advice is to find another mechanic.

 

[Ken226]

I d*cked around with mine for what seemed like 2 hours or more, and no matter how I oriented it, no dice.

Mines a 4x4.

I was well into the 2nd hour of dicking around with it, and had long since resorted to yelling various profanity laden phrases when somehow, like magic, I found an orientation that slipped right out.

The time I spent trying to slip it out from between the block and dipstick tube took longer than the entirety of the rest of the job. Both sides!

But even including that, the job was breeze compared to the studs on my wife's Durango Citadel 5.7 Hemi. That, was a nightmarish hell! I'd rather sandpaper a wildcats ass in a phone booth than ever do that again!

 

[PA Ram]

Mines a 4x4.

I was well into the 2nd hour of dicking around with it, and had long since resorted to yelling various profanity laden phrases when somehow, like magic, I found an orientation that slipped right out.

The time I spent trying to slip it out from between the block and dipstick tube took longer than the entirety of the rest of the job. Both sides!

But even including that, the job was breeze compared to the studs on my wife's Durango Citadel 5.7 Hemi. That, was a nightmarish hell! I'd rather sandpaper a wildcats ass in a phone booth than ever do that again!

I found out if you disconnect both collectors the y pipe drops down and makes it much easier. I didn't do it that way, but while trying to fix my collector leaks I had to disconnect both and it would have made life easy. I originally only did my passenger side, because it was leaking and figured I'd do the driver side another day which ended up being a few months later when bolts broke on that side as well. Had parts to do both and should have knocked it all out at once. 2 broken bolts in the same spot on both sides.

 

[CanuckRam1313]

I took my truck (2017 Ram 1500) to the mechanic for a quote to replace the warped exhaust manifold and as expected this would be a costly fix because of already two broken bolts and possibly more once they start the job. He suggested that best way to go about this would be removing the engine to get better access to tight locations. Additionally, they suggested that because the truck has 104K miles it would be a perfect time to replace spark plugs, belts, hoses etc while the engine is out.
I understand that it’s a lot easier to work on the engine when it’s sitting on the stand but is this mechanic full of crap or has some of you actually done something like this?

Sounds like a "make work shop" with little to no experience regarding the 5.7 HEMI nuances, to me.

I would RUN from that shop, period!

Great time to do a full service, yes, but with the engine in the truck.

 

[Trashy2121]

he wants to make more money. It can be done in the truck. Personally I'd rather pull the head amd put it on my bench than to pull the whole motor. Atleast id have fresh head gaskets

 

[Mike2017Larami]

I also have a 2017 RAM Laramie w/72,267 Miles, that had multiple exhaust manifold bolts broken. I called a local shop for a quote, that also does major work for the RAM Dealership that I purchased my RAM from. They told me that it would cost any where from $1,400.00 to $1,500.00 to replace the exhaust manifold and bolts with factory RAM parts. I had them do the work, and got the cash discount of $1,220.00 complete, and done right. I figure that $1,220 is a lot cheaper than buying another truck, and I like my truck. It's probably the last truck or vehicle that I will be buying. I'm almost 70, and I keep my vehicles in good condition. The local shop was Van Meter auto repair in Mantua Township, NJ Vanmeterautorepair.com . I have had them do alignment work for me, after the RAM dealership said that they do their alignment work too. They do great work, and I trust them.