Oil Analysis vs Bad lifter?

[Freed127]

So i go to start my truck this morning and let it warm up. I come back out to a CEL. So i pulled the code and its for Cylinder #6 misfire. Cleared the code, drove to work and home without it returning.

So what is the chance of that code being a fluke? My truck has 30k on it and has had a faint tick (which i think is just amplified by the headers) for maybe 10k. Im considering sending my oil out for analysis since im coming up on an oil change. Would that give me any insight to if it really is a lifter going?

Ive always ran 5-20 pennsoil platinum in the truck, and im not one to beating on it cuz its my daily. Hoping this was just dumb luck, but i want to know if i should start preparing for a cam swap.

 

[chrisbh17]

30k miles? Is it still under warranty?

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[Freed127]

30k miles? Is it still under warranty?

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Its a 2014 so im at the end of it. Thats if they overlook my lift, 37s and longtubes haha. They seem mod friendly with new lifted trucks on there lot etc. I had it there when the tick started and they claimed it was nothing.

And personally if the cam goes id much rather fix it correctly with non mds lifters and an aftermarket cam.

 

[Burla]

First things first, relace the plugs to that cylinder and swap coils, verify. No reason to worry, if it is a wiped cam you will know soon enough. we dont usually see this at 30k.

 

[Burla]

I would stop warming up my truck, these cams are starved at idle. It is cold and damp there, then I say it is possible it was a fluke, or in other words fuel/air mix related.

 

[Freed127]

First things first, relace the plugs to that cylinder and swap coils, verify. No reason to worry, if it is a wiped cam you will know soon enough. we dont usually see this at 30k.

Thats my thought, but i figure ill look into things. This was the first misfire so if it happens again im going to swap coils and plugs to another cylinders. And i figured an oil analysis couldnt hurt in general

 

[Burla]

good idea for sure- you have the 100k mile plugs?

 

[Freed127]

I would stop warming up my truck, these cams are starved at idle. It is cold and damp there, then I say it is possible it was a fluke, or in other words fuel/air mix related.

We actually just had a mess of rain/ sleet/ freezing rain. Hope it came from that, truck had to run to thaw out the inch of ice on everything.

And what do you mean by the 100k plugs? Were they from the factory some years?

 

[Burla]

I believe it was 2014 they went from ngk to iridium or whatever they use for 100. Yeah freezing rain and driving around that **** can for sure cause a misfire, but if it were me I'd pull both plugs put anti sieze on threads carefully, dielectric grease VERY carefully on spark plug, not top metal part but white part. Prevent moisture from coming in. You will see if that is an issue, the sides of the plug would be rusty or over worn. If you have the 30k plugs, they all need changing, if 100k mile plugs you should be good for a long time.

after you take a drive pop the hood and also just look at engine see if and where it is wet. sometimes you have an awe hah moment just from doing small ****.

Also, there was no roughess at all, just a CEL? I wouldn't go swapping that Cam just yet

I would go get you some techron concentrate 20ounce or redline s1 in case you have some junk on the spark plug, could even be injector, who knows. I'd get 91 octane gas too. burn that **** clean.

 

[U&A]

Burla seems to have this covered.

My only suggestion is to run 1-1/2 bottles of S1 in your tank. Not just one.

I also agree, No long warm ups any more as Burla said. As soon as it leaves high idle after start up. Start driving. But drive like you have a cup of coffee on your dash.

Idle RPM is stupid low in these trucks and that historically kills cams in ANY engine.





Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

 

[BEAST19]

So i go to start my truck this morning and let it warm up. I come back out to a CEL. So i pulled the code and its for Cylinder #6 misfire. Cleared the code, drove to work and home without it returning.

So what is the chance of that code being a fluke? My truck has 30k on it and has had a faint tick (which i think is just amplified by the headers) for maybe 10k. Im considering sending my oil out for analysis since im coming up on an oil change. Would that give me any insight to if it really is a lifter going?

Ive always ran 5-20 pennsoil platinum in the truck, and im not one to beating on it cuz its my daily. Hoping this was just dumb luck, but i want to know if i should start preparing for a cam swap.

Got a video of idle with headers? I agree the headers exaggerate a ticking noise ..... But if u clear code and it doesn't come back ita most likely fluke.


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[Quyonmob]

My Sierra used to pop P0307 every time it got bad or watery gas. Nothing was wrong, injector 7’s position on the fuel rail used to collect any crap more than the others.

Point is, don’t fret yet. Could be moisture or bad gas.

 

[U&A]

My Sierra used to pop P0307 every time it got bad or watery gas. Nothing was wrong, injector 7’s position on the fuel rail used to collect any crap more than the others.

Point is, don’t fret yet. Could be moisture or bad gas.

Great info sir


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

 

[Freed127]

Got my sample back today. I think i can rest alittle easier at this point.

 

[U&A]

Got my sample back today. I think i can rest alittle easier at this point.

View attachment 159601

Numbers don’t look too bad. Unless you’re trying to stick to your warranty try running a 30 weight with a bit more moly. Or mix in a few qts of PUP 0W40 to boost your moly. PUP0W40 shears was down to a 30 weight in about 500 miles anyways.

Moly and film strength are your friend when you have a hemi.


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

 

[Freed127]

Im about out of warranty, how does the 5/30 work in these trucks? I do have MDS tuned out so i couldnt imagine an issue there

 

[U&A]

Im about out of warranty, how does the 5/30 work in these trucks? I do have MDS tuned out so i couldnt imagine an issue there

30 weight will not cause an issue with MDS. There are countless people that have been doing it for years on MDS equipped truck.

Run it with confidence


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

 

[Burla]

everything Kyle (u&a) just said x2, about 1/2 the fourm uses 30 weight or higher w/o issue.

Redline 5w30 is hemi honey, PUP 0w40 right there. PUP is actually thinner long term, 1/2 PUP 0w40 and 5w20 is a fairly popular strategy here. But I like the QSUD 5w30 that TX dude just ran. If you are just out of warranty, time to go up a bit in weight imo. Tolerances are wider with use, fact. That is why every high mileage oil is thicker then it's counterpart oil. Anyhow, lot's of good choices, just go thicker imo.

 

[U&A]

And unless you live in a climate that constantly has negative temperatures you do not need to run a 0W-XX oil. 5w is perfect most all of the time.

Unless your strategy is to use PUP0W40 for the tri-nuclear moly.


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]