Oil change interval with redline?

[dexter]

40 weight versus 30 weight in the cold...

The 0 winter rating with 40 weight oil is very misleading. It only means they have done all they can to make that 40 weight flow better when cold, it doesn't mean it will flow better cold then 5w30, in fact it wont, it wont at all. If they had a 0w40 in this chart it would be similar to 5w40 as the 0w30 and 5w30 are close.

0w40 has nothing in common with 0w20 oil for cold viscosity.

-20 c = - 4 Fahrenheit.

-15c = 5

-10c = 14 Fahrenheit.

0 c = 32 F

When you look at the -20 there is infitecimial difference between the 5w and 0w which could be brand related.

 

[Ludville1]

For me once a year...but that's only approximately 3K miles...

 

[Thorbeast]

For me once a year...but that's only approximately 3K miles...

Haha for me I drive about 25,000 miles a year

 

[Thorbeast]

Dude, 5w30 redline keep using it.

Hah ok, so disregard the guy who made it sound like I was going to kill my motor. Panicked for a minute

 

[Thorbeast]

Just to add in a piece of information I had emailed Redline when I started this thread and they emailed me back saying that they recommend changing the oil every 15000 miles. I would not push it to 15,000 but it is very interesting to see their recommendation. I told them what the application was also

 

[TheEnder]

Just to add in a piece of information I had emailed Redline when I started this thread and they emailed me back saying that they recommend changing the oil every 15000 miles. I would not push it to 15,000 but it is very interesting to see their recommendation. I told them what the application was also

***** PUSH IT TO 15,000 MILES AND SILVER SLUDGE WILL BE YOUR BEST FRIEND..[emoji1787]


Sent from Blue Onyx

 

[Burla]

It's actually what I think the redline interval has been for twenty years plus, but a lot goes into that recommendation other then a blanket 15k miles. All freeway miles, 15k is a no brainer. My truck, after two years and 10k miles, still had over 3tbn, so 15k miles would be about the exact number despite two years. However, you should still back it up with a uoa, because we also know for a fact sometimes redline would NOT safely hit 15k miles.

Redline knows how they build their oil, so they make that statement. Now, if a vehicle ran out of tbn, you can almost read the tea leaves, well we know how we built the oil, we can't help those couple vehicles that use up tbn at an accelerated rate. Doesn't help you much if that is you. 15k is an upper limit play, it is pushing it, to do so without an uoa is a large risk imo.

 

[AE5548]

Mine is a gas truck, no block heated in it

A super easy way to make startups a little easier in the cold is a self adhesive oil pan heater. Google Wolverine oil pan heaters. They work great on cold days and are a simple install compared to a block heater.

 

[scott lass 18]

Curious what you guys are doing for oil change intervals in the 6.4

I switched to redline 5w30 per som recommendations here and the truck runs great. I was just curious if I still need to do every 5k or if it's safe to go longer

just cut open ur oil filter I say no I do 2,000 cuz filter is sooo small ! or if cheep one could just change filter at 2,000 ? but bad lifters are going out so I just change oil ! ur royal purple filter found really good to use ! cut one apart to see sometime ! have a new ticking hoping not bad lifter ? they just replace one exhaust and bolts on most of exhaust pipes some broken ! 69,000 miles ! cant afford another engine so rather be safe then sorry ya know ! use amsoil too ! not cheap anymore !

 

[gixxer]

Curious what you guys are doing for oil change intervals in the 6.4

I switched to redline 5w30 per som recommendations here and the truck runs great. I was just curious if I still need to do every 5k or if it's safe to go longer

Do an oil analysis and get the TBN.

Every engine is different, driving habits. I would recommend going to a certain percentage you feel comfortable with, even 0% is fine. Change the oil and send a sample to a lab and they will tell you how it holds up.

 

[Alan Eldred]

Why not take samples at 4k, 6k 8k or longer and send them in for analysis? Then you'll know what is a good interval for your engine and the way YOU drive.

 

[Burla]

A super easy way to make startups a little easier in the cold is a self adhesive oil pan heater. Google Wolverine oil pan heaters. They work great on cold days and are a simple install compared to a block heater.

This is a really good idea, redline users tend to be those of us with hemi tick, and those engines with hemi tick also tend to be susceptible to cold piston slap a different symptom then hemi tick, but one of these magnetic heaters would in theory eliminate cold piston slap. As long as when you start your truck and check the evic and see the temperature is well under 200f, ester based redline oil will not be degraded and you can save yourself all of the negative symptoms that come with starting an engine with cold oil.

As you see in the chart, 0c which equals 32f you see the starting viscosities are through the roof, and it gets worse the colder you get. Even 5w20 is super thick at 32f. You just want to make sure it isn't heating oil too high. I think the best strategy would be plugging it in an hour or so before you take off.

 

[JOHN NIGHTINGALE]

With the OEM filter systems the best oil will not get better intervals. Look at an oil centrifuge and you can double the oil life,

 

[JS4024]

OEM

 

[warcar1947]

In my 1997 RAM 4x4 with 5.9 gas motor, purchased used with 21,000 miles on it in 2006. I drove it hard and worked it hard, used Mystic 15w50. Changed filter every 3500 miles and filter and oil every 7000 miles. I put 264,000 miles and never leaked or burned oil, never had heads off or engine torn down.
Just got my used 2017 RAM 4x4 Limited with 5.7 Hemi, had 35,000 miles on it. Have been using Mobile 1, at 5,000 mi. just heard about Redline, what viscoity should I use I live in San Antonio, Texas. So far no tick.

 

[69GWC]

5w30.

 

[Burla]

5w30.

x2, especially for san antonio. Nothing wrong with m1 either, same thing 5w30 for hot state.

 

[Roux2015]

Super interested in this topic. Great read! I am just about to turn 60,000 miles on my 2015 Sport that I bought new. I believe I am starting to develop the dreaded tick as well. I have been running PP 5W-20 since my last oil change and before I was running Mobil 1 5W-20 all with a purolator boss filter. I usually change at 7-8K miles or at ~20% on the evic which ever comes sooner out of abundance of caution.

Seemed to be going well, now I am freaking. I live in Upstate NY and I worry about running the thicker redline 5W-30, especially on sub zero mornings. I also drive more in the winter. I am open to all options. I have been reading some of the newer threads regarding this issue the past couple weeks and browsed the near 4000 post oil type thread.

Redline 5W-30 seems to be what most have success with, but should I worry about the viscosity or am I being paranoid? Any other suggestions like running an engine flush at idle for ten minutes before draining (I have never done this)? I also usually run some full fuel system cleaner through the tank before the oil change too.

I wanna get as much life out of this truck as possible and so far so good. It is still in beautiful shape thanks to the Fluid Film thread. Thanks for all the knowledge!

 

[Burla]

Super interested in this topic. Great read! I am just about to turn 60,000 miles on my 2015 Sport that I bought new. I believe I am starting to develop the dreaded tick as well. I have been running PP 5W-20 since my last oil change and before I was running Mobil 1 5W-20 all with a purolator boss filter. I usually change at 7-8K miles or at ~20% on the evic which ever comes sooner out of abundance of caution.

Seemed to be going well, now I am freaking. I live in Upstate NY and I worry about running the thicker redline 5W-30, especially on sub zero mornings. I also drive more in the winter. I am open to all options. I have been reading some of the newer threads regarding this issue the past couple weeks and browsed the near 4000 post oil type thread.

Redline 5W-30 seems to be what most have success with, but should I worry about the viscosity or am I being paranoid? Any other suggestions like running an engine flush at idle for ten minutes before draining (I have never done this)? I also usually run some full fuel system cleaner through the tank before the oil change too.

I wanna get as much life out of this truck as possible and so far so good. It is still in beautiful shape thanks to the Fluid Film thread. Thanks for all the knowledge!

The thread in my sig is the redline thread, report whether or not it kills your tick, we just want accurate numbers. Look at poll, so far so good, nearly 90% at quieting tick. So as far as viscosity, about 1/2 the forum uses 30 weight or higher in our last poll, no issues. The only issue with redline and 30 weight is if it is cold, some get piston slap, 0w30 would be a better choice if you are in snow state.

 

[Roux2015]

Awesome. Thanks! So running Redline 5W-30 in the summer, and IF I see that I am having piston slap on start up in the winter switching to Redline 0W-30 should solve that issue? Other than that I could potentially make the full time switch to Redline 5W-30?

@Burla - I see you have constantly referred to the additives and modifiers that are specific to Redline that our Hemi's seem to love. Where is this information located? Specifically from a Tech Spec Sheet from Redline? As far as other oils and finding out the same info on their blends, I assume it would be similar? Thanks for helping out a NEWB to this topic.

Anyone ever try an engine flush product prior to an oil change? Pros/Cons? I am thinking if I am getting this deep into it, I would want to start out with as clean of an engine as possible.

Whats the consensus on oil additives, like Liqui Moly MoS2 or CereTec or others like SeaFoam? Snake oil or some small benefits? Not necessary with the Redline 5W-30? I want to add as much longevity to my truck as possible with any positive preventive measures. Seems to me that a $20 bottle of some BS that may help a tiny bit is way cheaper than any major engine work. Plus with the old lady wanting me to knock her up here soon, I am not in the market to buy a new vehicle anytime soon. Lol.