OIL.........

[BlackSabbath]

I ride motorcycles and just that one word will lead to pages of opinions which is actually what I'm seeking with this thread but not pages worth.

I've purchased a 2013 1500 4x4 with the 5.7 Hemi. Truck was lightly used as it had 35,000 on the clock when I bought it. Service records indicate full synthetic oil at every change. I used Mobil 1 on my previous truck, never an issue.

I am looking at the specs on Rotella T6 0w-40 to use on my Ram now and I can't find a reason not to run it.

What say y'all and lubricant officianados ? BE GENTLE.

 

[TallBoy1969]

Have a rebuilt/reman in mine, motor builder specified 10w-30 full synthetic
Using Mobil 1
My first rodeo with full synthetic

 

[69GWC]

5w30 is what I would roll, Mobil 1, PUP, arr 2 great oils.

 

[mikeru]

Have a rebuilt/reman in mine, motor builder specified 10w-30 full synthetic
Using Mobil 1
My first rodeo with full synthetic

I see you're located in Texas. The oil viscosity your builder recommended is better suited for hotter climates. I wouldn't recommend that in a colder area, especially during the winter months.

 

[Ratket]

Depending on the part of Texas he lives in, it may get chilly at his place. I would run the manufactures rated weight with a mobile 1 oil

 

[69GWC]

Some flow rates on oil.

 

[huntergreen]

You might want to check out the synthetic oil thread in the engine and preformence section.

 

[TallBoy1969]

I live in south east Texas
About 1 hour from the Gulf of Mexico
We had a our week of winter already
I see pretty sever temperatures with my truck
I drive it on a mailroute where I pack 677 mailboxes into 66 miles
Which means I have horrible cooling rates, horrible air flow, so I need the best oil I can get
Already killed 2 Hemi's, have less than 2000 miles on #3
Hopefully it will be my last

 

[Ratket]

Some flow rates on oil.

View attachment 123588

Well ****. I’m in az now, my truck will rarely see 20 degrees let alone anything colder, But I gurantee in the summer outside air temp will be 120 to 130 F. Maybe I should run a winter Weight and a summer weight.
Also this 5.7 with the 8 speed runs warm, consistent 215 degrees for the most part.

 

[tsielski]

A good 10W-30 synthetic will serve you well. The 10W cold rating will do fine in any temperatures Arizona can muster in the cooler months. Typically 10W-30 synthetic oils have very little to no viscosity improvers too, so shearing will be very low. Mob 1, PP, or PUP if you can find that grade, Redline, or Amsoil all have very good offerings.

 

[SyN]

Very well said tsielski.
Most don’t even bother looking @ a synthetic 10W-30 pour point.

Most of the posted charts never show data or results from a Synthetic 10W-30 it most always a convention 10W-30.

BlackSabbath: To address your question you asked advice about.
Truth be known is there is not a lot of information or personal experiences posted about T6 0W-40.

Most here would literally freak the crap out by pouring this oil into their 5.7L.
I myself have used 6Qts of PUP SRT 0W-40 & 1Qt PUP 5W-30.
My brand new 5.7L seemed to Totally enjoy this oil & viscosity.
There was never a issue she was (more) smooth and quiet compared to any of the other viscositys that I used.
The main point of this story is my UOA come back after 4000 miles showing below normal wear numbers.
Even for a brand new motor still breaking in which was pretty incredible in my own eyes.
I think the Only item I was disappointed in if I remember right was the TBN but I got over that pretty quick.
I think honestly: I proved to a lot of fine folks who followed what I was doing that a heavier viscosity oil will not implode the 5.7L.
It actually Showed it performed pretty incredibly well compared to the other Much Thinner Viscositys.



I can only say don’t be scared to try this oil at least once if you never try you never will know.

If You do not like the way your 5.7L reacts to this viscosity you can always drain it and switch to a 10W-30 or 5W-30 or 5W-20 or even Oh Lord here it comes———> 0W oil.

Most will badmouth the 10W-30 synthetic viscosity even though they have never used it.
That has always been kind of funny to me.

Good Luck in your Quest.

My only true advice is: Dont be intimidated or scared to try other viscosities. If you never try you never will know. Listen closely to your 5.7L she will tell you!

One more thing have to share this with you.
At the time that I traded my 5.7L in on my 6.7L.
Two weeks prior I had just changed my oil and filter and poured in 5Qts of PUP 10W-30 & 2Qts PP 5W-30 w/RP filter.
Steven at the dealership where I was trading my 5.7L in, after his 20 minute test drive come back in the office and said that is the quietest and smoothness 5.7L Hemi he had ever witnessed.
My point being the 10W-30 viscosity will perform equally if not better within the 5.7L then most THINK!
Then he proceeded to ask me what my secret was.

Everybody Have a Great Day!

 

[BlackSabbath]

I appreciate that. I operate in the Blue Ridge mountains a lot of uphill grunting. I'm looking for a long term oil relationship. I change oil more frequently than most folks. I haven't really looked at Pennzoil since the late 70's because of sludge build up with their conventional oils.

 

[Burla]

Your rotella is almost just like PUP minus the moly. High detergency and on the low end of visc for 40 weight, similar tbn and additive packages. There is a reason why Ram engineers put over 200ppm moly in their PUP 0w40. Does this sound like something you would want? The main difference between the oil your manufacturer made specifically for the hemi and your t6 is t6 has lower moly and higher zinc/phos, and price and availability. Probably an even trade, go run it but if you get hemi tick go back to drawing board. Of course you do realize you are two weights up from the recommended 20 weight? If you are willing to take that risk with mds lifters, there is no risk in running your choice as far as additive packages.

 

[SyN]

PYB!
With OCIs between 4K-7KMiles!

My 2 other favorite conventional oils Quaker State / Mobil in no particular order.
QS is the sister company of Pennzoil.

Since Shell took over Pennzoil: Things turned around 360°.
It’s now a top tier conventional oil!

Good luck in your Quest!

 

[Burla]

I haven't really looked at Pennzoil since the late 70's because of sludge build up with their conventional oils.

Same company makes Rotella and Pennzoil. This aint your daddies pennzoil. Anyhow, the oil world is constantly changing and with the newer ILSAC specs oils will meet minimum standards that are way better when those things used to happen. Right now we are between gf-5 and gf-6, when we hit the gf-6 there will even be more protection against sludge. Now, there aint **** you can do if your pcv is clogged, then you will likely sludge any oil, another good reason to get a catch can and make sure it is always adding oil. If you go for a oci and there is nothing in the can, you know you have an issue. I'm with Sinister, Pennzoil Yellow Bottle is the best conventional oil now that I know of. The only one I have in my garage. But I like your original thought to run rotella t6, it is good inexpensive high detergent synthetic oil.

 

[TallBoy1969]

I put a 180 thermostat in mine when I replaced water pump
Try to keep it cooler
I drive about 100 miles a day on mailroute, and it is slow
This motor hates it
Not sure if any motor was really meant to be a mail truck motor

 

[SyN]

I put a 180 thermostat in mine when I replaced water pump
Try to keep it cooler
I drive about 100 miles a day on mailroute, and it is slow
This motor hates it
Not sure if any motor was really meant to be a mail truck motor

I assume most of your Driving style/habits consist of hours of stop & go driving with more then usual idle time?

You mention cooling issues.
Something to think about which most don’t. Changing your coolant mix from a 50-50 mix to a 60-40 mix.

Your climate will allow for this with zero issues. 60% of Distilled H20 will help aid in the cooling process much better.

 

[BlackSabbath]

Not in answer to the mail truck posts. I'll be sticking with full synthetic, a PP filter or WIX, I will add the Billet catch can and watch these pages closely for more sage advice. Averaged 16.0 mpg to Kentucky and back this weekend.

 

[BlackSabbath]

Speaking of the home range, Kentucky, in reading a lot of syntheyic oil testing data and looking at the bar graphed results, I see that Valvoline Synpower full synthetic puts up some strong numbers in the top 10 synthetics testing. No mention of it in most threads. They are the "home team" for me like bourbon and coal. Just a casual observation and at $21 USD at Wally world for the big jug, I noticed it alongside the $28 a jug brands. Don't scold me, I'm 62 and don't respond well to scolding.

 

[Ramnewbie]

Speaking of the home range, Kentucky, in reading a lot of syntheyic oil testing data and looking at the bar graphed results, I see that Valvoline Synpower full synthetic puts up some strong numbers in the top 10 synthetics testing. No mention of it in most threads. They are the "home team" for me like bourbon and coal. Just a casual observation and at $21 USD at Wally world for the big jug, I noticed it alongside the $28 a jug brands. Don't scold me, I'm 62 and don't respond well to scolding.

Valvoline may be good oil for some engines but by pretty much unanimous agreement it's not that good for the hemi as it has no moly. Not really a knock on valvoline in general as a lot of oils don't have moly. Just not a good oil for the hemi.

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