Oil?

[hemihustlin]

Us as ramforumers we obsess over all the tinyest details. Theres a bunch of hemi rams that come to our garage that have been running on dino since day one and will continue to run, like i said the engine will outlast the body. One of them ticks a bit but the owner doesnt care/notice.

I run syn because i want ultimate cold start oil flowability (lolwut) when its -32. It doesnt get quite as cold here as in alberta but its more than enough for me haha. Also i want the added high heat high stress protection when im beating it. Elimination of a tick is a bonus.

Although all my other cars were like you, run on the cheapest oil on sale, and they all started during the same winter conditions and didnt blow up and were beaten pretty good and still didnt blow up. The difference is i didnt care about them, the way i love my ram
They all ended up in the scrap yard due to accidents or rust lol

Maybe im older and wiser, or i just have deeper pockets but it just makes sense to run syn im my ram, i know im going to keep it for years and want the best performance possible.

 

[Grad12]

Your mds will run better with full synth. I run purple, amsoil is supposed to be great too.

 

[dtru1222]

Something most oil threads dont mention is that the SRT engineers recommend a high moly count in your oil. One of them stated that moly helps the VVT operation.

I have always used Amsoil XL 0-20 then read some oil analysis that showed that it didnt meet the moly count of the SRT branded Pennzoil mix. I switched to the Amsoil SS 0-20 which has more moly than the SRT mix and I could tell the VVT functioned more seamlessly. The power transition from 2-3k was much more smoother.

My .02

 

[dtru1222]

For reference, keep in mind they are talking about the 6.4 but cam phasing = VVT

Q - "What are the disadvantages, if any, of using 5W-40? (vs 0W-40) Is the MDS system affected?"

A - There are some disadvantages to 5W-40 usage for the cam phasing system (rather than the MDS system). The fast acting cam phaser system was designed to utilize synthetic 0W-40 vis oils. The oils we recommend are 0W-40 Pennzoil Ultra (with 250 ppm moly added which gives additional cam phasing benefit - very positive on this oil) and our old SRT oil, Mobil 1, (with 110-160 ppm moly).

 

[Diminus]

I always use Pennzoil platinum or ultra ( whatever is available) and usually a mobile 1 filter. No tick , great up here in chilly Labrador climate

 

[brasso]

Im worried about running 0w... will it be ok to run 0w here in texas? It doesnt get extremely cold here... at the coldest ill prob see around 15 degrees but very very rarely. I do want something that can help fuel anyway possible.. but im worried about the right weight..

 

[SyN]

0W oils are some of the best base stock oils. 0W-->Only pertains to start up. Once the oil is at operating temp it is exactly like a 5W-20! 0W oils are more synthetic base then 5W oils.

If you are worried? --> Just use a 5W oil... No more to worry about. The 0W-20 & 0W-30 & 0W-40 oils just uses a better base stock oil. Plus has better pump ability characteristics on start ups! Esp during the cold winter months.

It has been documented over and over again-->Most engine wear occurs at start up.... That's where I want my main protection!

You will notice--->some auto manufacturers are beginning to factory fill with 0W-20!

Whether we like it or not-->Lighter Viscosity Oils are going to be showing up more and more in the future.

But Honestly there is not that much difference of Pump ability between 0W & 5W! So Use what U feel comfortable with!

This is a Quote from a Loyal Member of Bobistheoilguy who has used and tested 0W-20 oil since it arrived... In his BMW-Porche-Caterham! He is Very Well Respected and Knows his Research!

"The difference between a 5W-20 and a 0W-20 is not "insignificant" especially if you compare an OEM 0W-20 with a 5W-20 which can be more than 50% lighter at 32F and 35% at room temperature. That's about double the viscosity difference between a 5W-20 and a 5W-30 grade at those temp's. And even your typical OTC aftermarket 0W-20 will still be a good 20% lighter at 32F and 10% lighter at room temp's and that's not mentioning the other benefits of the synthetic 0W-20 grade."

I'm by NO means telling U or anyone too use a 0W oil! If you are curious? Do the research!

 

[Burla]

0w20 will pour, meaning flow, down to -76F depending on brand. 5w20 will pour to -49. That is the main difference between the 2, only in the very coldest places on Earth would you see the benefit of 0 weight oil. The interesting thing is in some cases the 0 weight oil can also have a slightly higher viscosity at operating temps, meaning you tend to have slightly better film strength but by the very slightest margin. The question is what do they add to the oil to get that and what effect does it have on metal. And depending on oil brand it is a viscosity improver, but they also add the same thing to the 5w20 just maybe less of it. A better question would be which oils that carry the winter rating do not use viscosity improver. Check the syn thread for all of that and more info.

Bottom line is there is very little downside or upside to using 0 weight unless you live in the middle of Alaska and still probably wont do much but give you piece of mind. You can use both 0 or 5 weight twenty in your truck.

 

[brasso]

I snagged 7 quarts of royal purple and a royal purple filter from pep boys for $46! my truck is now running purple!

 

[Sillygoose]

dang, that's a steal

 

[brasso]

Gotta love pepboys price matching plus 10% were just going to say it's a coincidence I went there on a Sunday when the place that had the lower priced oil was closed ans couldn't answer a phone to confirm the price.

 

[SlightlyTweaked]

Just swapped over to full synthetic in the 5.7 HEMI in my 2500. The factory conventional oil had to go. Picked up 5qt jugs of Pennzoil Platinum Plus at Walmart for $22.40/jug. To add a little confusion to the choices, I found that oil filter companies like to use different width filters for the 5.7 HEMI. Got home with a filter that was wider than what was factory, but as long as the gasket seat is the same, i guess it'll be fine.

 

[SyN]

Tweaked: Not to be Nosy! What oil filter and # did you bring home. As long as the Gasket dia was the same as the stock mopar filter... You will be fine.

Just keep an eye on the ground for a few days for drips... Just in case there might be an issue.

I'm curious! If you have payed attention to your oil pressure before and after the oil filter change? Any drastic changes? I have heard of a couple owners who has switched to the larger Fram XG2 that has noticed a bit lower oil psi.

 

[SlightlyTweaked]

I wanted to go with the Fram ultra guard or something 99%, but Walmart only had cheap, so I went with the Bosch Distance Plus, it was best they had. My oil pressure between idle and running pressure is anywhere from 49-57psi. Unfortunately I wasn't smart enough to take notice prior. The Bosch filter I got was the same physical size as the Mopar, and Motorcraft options. The Fram was narrower but the same height as those, and was the exact same size as the Mopar filter that was on my truck.

 

[SyN]

No Worries Mate: Bosch Filters will work Fine! I have a few XG2 In the Garage Cabinet I might install in the Spring. As long as you have 0 drips or leaks--->Your good to go in my opinion!

 

[dtru1222]

I didnt read all of that post but something I try to mention in most oil threads since its never mentioned,

The SRT engineers have been quoted stating that a high moly count is beneficial to the VCT function. I havent checked all brands but most that I have seen fall short of the Pennzoil/SRT branded oil that was formulated for the 6.4

I was using Amsoil XL 0-20 and realized it was one that had a lower moly count. I switched to the SS and I could notice a smoother power output.

My .02