Operation Spark Plug

[NETim]

A little over 100K miles on my '14. Time for plugs. I'm replacing the coil boots as well.

Taking a little break after doing the passenger side (the easy side) now. The flex 5/8" spark plug socket is indispensable for this job. The plugs nearest the firewall are the toughest to deal with. The heater hoses and the wire loom HAVE to be moved out of the way to get at the coil and plugs. This means undoing cable clamps etc. I was able to cobble together a combination of extensions that still allowed me to put a torque wrench on the plugs.

The joys of car maintenance. Break time over.

Now on to the fun side.

 

[Zoe Saldana]

On the driver's side the two closest to the firewall are hard also.

You need the 5/8" spark plug socket, 3" extension and 1" extension.

Or 5/8" spark plug socket, 3" extension and wabble extension.

 

[Bigskyroadglide]

You need this. One and done.

Amazon.com

 

[MrBonez]

I'll admit I haven't really looked yet to see how the fender wells are made in mine.
I know in my S10, since it has a 4.3 in it I have to go underneath, through the fenderwell to get at the rear plugs on it on the driver's side, passenger side is about the same.

If that would work, that's what I'll do with this one and if not I'll deal with it.

 

[Wild one]

A little over 100K miles on my '14. Time for plugs. I'm replacing the coil boots as well.

Taking a little break after doing the passenger side (the easy side) now. The flex 5/8" spark plug socket is indispensable for this job. The plugs nearest the firewall are the toughest to deal with. The heater hoses and the wire loom HAVE to be moved out of the way to get at the coil and plugs. This means undoing cable clamps etc. I was able to cobble together a combination of extensions that still allowed me to put a torque wrench on the plugs.

The joys of car maintenance. Break time over.

Now on to the fun side.

Did you clean the spring contact points in the coil towers before installing the new springs and boots.

 

[NETim]

Did you clean the spring contact points in the coil towers before installing the new springs and boots.

Nope! Didn't think to do that. They looked clean. The truck ran fine with no codes after the job was completed.

The only really annoying thing I encountered was getting the coil connector off and on on the driver's side first cylinder. The big heavy battery/alternator cables interfered with removing the connector. I had to cut away the tie downs for that cable bundle to get enough clearance to remove the connector. Even then it was tight. I don't like those connectors to begin with.

Working around the heater hoses and brake booster is a PITA as reported multiple times here. I worked from above and used a padded floor mat (thank you Summit Racing!) to reduce the discomfort of lying on top of the engine.

I had to use a cheater pipe on a 3/8ths ratchet to break some spark plugs loose.

No other surprises. I think this is a job that is doable by your average shade tree mechanic. Just have lots of extensions on hand and the famous 5/8" flex spark plug socket will get you by. I did use a stubby 3/8th flex ratchet on a few 10 mm bolts on the coils here n there. It made life easier.

 

[RamDiver]

Nope! Didn't think to do that. They looked clean. The truck ran fine with no codes after the job was completed.

The only really annoying thing I encountered was getting the coil connector off and on on the driver's side first cylinder. The big heavy battery/alternator cables interfered with removing the connector. I had to cut away the tie downs for that cable bundle to get enough clearance to remove the connector. Even then it was tight. I don't like those connectors to begin with.

Working around the heater hoses and brake booster is a PITA as reported multiple times here. I worked from above and used a padded floor mat (thank you Summit Racing!) to reduce the discomfort of lying on top of the engine.

I had to use a cheater pipe on a 3/8ths ratchet to break some spark plugs loose.

No other surprises. I think this is a job that is doable by your average shade tree mechanic. Just have lots of extensions on hand and the famous 5/8" flex spark plug socket will get you by. I did use a stubby 3/8th flex ratchet on a few 10 mm bolts on the coils here n there. It made life easier.

So, did you or did you not use anti-seize on the plugs?

.

 

[NETim]

So, did you or did you not use anti-seize on the plugs?

.

I did not.

 

[Wild one]

Nope! Didn't think to do that. They looked clean. The truck ran fine with no codes after the job was completed.

The only really annoying thing I encountered was getting the coil connector off and on on the driver's side first cylinder. The big heavy battery/alternator cables interfered with removing the connector. I had to cut away the tie downs for that cable bundle to get enough clearance to remove the connector. Even then it was tight. I don't like those connectors to begin with.

Working around the heater hoses and brake booster is a PITA as reported multiple times here. I worked from above and used a padded floor mat (thank you Summit Racing!) to reduce the discomfort of lying on top of the engine.

I had to use a cheater pipe on a 3/8ths ratchet to break some spark plugs loose.

No other surprises. I think this is a job that is doable by your average shade tree mechanic. Just have lots of extensions on hand and the famous 5/8" flex spark plug socket will get you by. I did use a stubby 3/8th flex ratchet on a few 10 mm bolts on the coils here n there. It made life easier.

If you ever have the coils off again,this is how i clean up the springs contact points.

Coil cleaning pics

Yea i know my picture taking abilities suck,lol Hopefully you guys can tell how i go about cleaning up the coils from the pic's. The first pic,is just a pic of everything disassembled.If your truck has the resistors under the spring in the coil towers,you'll want to remove them and clean them...

www.ramforum.com

 

[DILLIGAF]

I was able to cobble together a combination of extensions that still allowed me to put a torque wrench on the plugs.

Every extension you added made it less accurate, Doing it by feel is the only way to put plugs in.

And next time go thru the wheel wells.

 

[NETim]

Every extension you added made it less accurate, Doing it by feel is the only way to put plugs in.

And next time go thru the wheel wells.

I am rapidly nearing 69 years old. Odds are good I’ll never have touch the plugs again. Truck gets maybe 7K on it annually.

Next up, rear axle noise/vibration. I’m going to let the local shop handle that one. I am hoping it’s the source of the very intermittent and mostly unpredictable “squonk” noise that has been driving me nuts for the last year.

 

[QwikKota]

You need this. One and done.

Amazon.com

"The flex 5/8" spark plug socket is indispensable for this job." In the OP