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What kit's did you use?
You got it. When I ran mine I had the exact same issues and in the same order. I thought all was good and then after 20 minutes the lights cut off. Then I added the relay and all I heard was buzzing; thank you YouTube. I had some capacitors sitting around and boom, no more noise and everything was gravy...
Glad you got them to work
I do have the fogs and they cut off too. I got 2 relay harnesses from opt7 when I complained. They sent me a bunch of stuff after I complained; resistors, capacitors and relay harnesses. I installed just as the headlights and no problems since...
35 W or 55W kit?
I ask, since I want to install the 35W without the relay harness , I am under the impression that the 55W requires the harness/relay due to its power requirement, and that the 35W hid system could possibly be plug and play with nothing more than a canbus and flicker eliminater needed.
Ok so effectively that's blown my theory away , as I was thinking the lower wattage hid kit would work and be stable without the power relay harness.These are 35W kits I wouldnt even try it with out the relay after the trials I went through. The lights stayed on longer with the capacitors aka flicker eliminators but still went out cause of the canbus stuff, but with the relay wired up no worries on that.
Because the relay is controled by the factory light plug which is controled by the canbus system, resistors are needed to get rid of the bulb out message unless it doesnt bother you, you also need the capacitor even with the relay harness as the canbus sends pulsating power, since the relay is controled by the light plug it flickers from that pulsation causing your lights to flicker, the capacitor takes care of that flickerOk so effectively that's blown my theory away , as I was thinking the lower wattage hid kit would work and be stable without the power relay harness.
Dumb question: then why is there a need for for canbus and and capacitors if running direct off the battery ? Ultimately if one ran a seperate light switch for low beams and powered the HIDs directs dr battery, isn't this almost what is being achieved here?
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So in essence to avoid all this one would have route direct to battery and also mount a seperate power switch bypassing the vehicles gizmos.Because the relay is controled by the factory light plug which is controled by the canbus system, resistors are needed to get rid of the bulb out message unless it doesnt bother you, you also need the capacitor even with the relay harness as the canbus sends pulsating power, since the relay is controled by the light plug it flickers from that pulsation causing your lights to flicker, the capacitor takes care of that flicker
Pretty much, so in reality connecting the propper harness is less work, no adding switches, no splicing wires, just an intimidating looking harness but pretty simple once you lay it all outSo in essence to avoid all this one would have route direct to battery and also mount a seperate power switch bypassing the vehicles gizmos.
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I'm sure it'll be easier when I do my first one. Relay harness that is.Pretty much, so in reality connecting the propper harness is less work, no adding switches, no splicing wires, just an intimidating looking harness but pretty simple once you lay it all out
Ya it really isnt too badI'm sure it'll be easier when I do my first one. Relay harness that is.
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