Over heating only at idle

[2012RAM1500RT]

Found it. It is behind the the grill in between horn and radiator and it tested good

Did you have one like it in the fuse box to switch it out with just for kicks? I would drive it and try to make it get hot before I went any farther myself.

 

[stacking dimes]

Did you have one like it in the fuse box to switch it out with just for kicks? I would drive it and try to make it get hot before I went any farther myself.

Alright so I pulled the relay and cleaned the crap out of it put it in halfway started truck checked with meter and it was recieving a signal on the coil and it finally kicked the fan on so the coil is having a slow start so I am going to change it out and so the new cooling fan and relay now has the cooling system running 100% now I will drive it around and when I pick my kids up and I am sitting in line for thirty minutes with other cars we will see if it overheats but I feel pretty good about it now


Thanks to everyone for the help this group is awesome

 

[62Blazer]

Hopefully you have it straightened out. Also a good lesson that some basic trouble-shooting should be performed before throwing parts at it. From my experience over the years half the time that a particular part does not work it's because of a wiring issue, loose connector, or it's not receiving power. YouTube is a great resource to assist in trouble-shooting. Purchase a cheap multi-meter and test light and you can at least narrow down the issue.
A few comments just for people searching this topic in the future:
If the vehicle only overheats when idling it's almost always the fan. When driving you are getting airflow just from the speed of the vehicle moving and obviously no flow when sitting still. Idling is also the lowest load, and thus heat generation, you can put on an engine.

For the comment of running a hot wire to jump power to the fan you need to verify if it's a power switch or ground switch circuit! There are a lot of ground switch circuits on vehicle nowadays........what this means is there is already constant power to the device and the switch it turning the ground on and off. If that is the case you can run all the extra power wires to it and it will not run because there is no ground.

 

[2012RAM1500RT]

Alright so I pulled the relay and cleaned the crap out of it put it in halfway started truck checked with meter and it was recieving a signal on the coil and it finally kicked the fan on so the coil is having a slow start so I am going to change it out and so the new cooling fan and relay now has the cooling system running 100% now I will drive it around and when I pick my kids up and I am sitting in line for thirty minutes with other cars we will see if it overheats but I feel pretty good about it now


Thanks to everyone for the help this group is awesome

Sounds pretty promising, good luck!

 

[stacking dimes]

Hopefully you have it straightened out. Also a good lesson that some basic trouble-shooting should be performed before throwing parts at it. From my experience over the years half the time that a particular part does not work it's because of a wiring issue, loose connector, or it's not receiving power. YouTube is a great resource to assist in trouble-shooting. Purchase a cheap multi-meter and test light and you can at least narrow down the issue.
A few comments just for people searching this topic in the future:
If the vehicle only overheats when idling it's almost always the fan. When driving you are getting airflow just from the speed of the vehicle moving and obviously no flow when sitting still. Idling is also the lowest load, and thus heat generation, you can put on an engine.

For the comment of running a hot wire to jump power to the fan you need to verify if it's a power switch or ground switch circuit! There are a lot of ground switch circuits on vehicle nowadays........what this means is there is already constant power to the device and the switch it turning the ground on and off. If that is the case you can run all the extra power wires to it and it will not run because there is no ground.

Well I had a coolant leak last year and replaced radiator and water pump and t-stat clutch fan was the only wasted part but never the less with the coolant system pretty much all new I should be set for a good while

 

[stacking dimes]

Pulled my trailer for 3 hours today and never got above 212. I think it’s good now. Thanks for everyone’s help I can’t believe all that went wrong around the same time (water pump, clutch fan, electric fan and relay) but hey should be good to go for a while now!