P0175

[CORam15]

I recently did a non-mds cam and lifter replacement. this included a new set of lifters, a cam, a new timing chain, and a boat load of new gaskets. I rotated everything by hand with the balancer bolt and everything seemed to work just fine. However, now when I start it I have a rough idle and a P0175 code (Rich bank 2/1). Theres Any help would be appreciated. I have dr. googled myself into panic but I'd like more opinions before I start tearing it down again or just sell it and bite the bullet seeing as I'm running into a "I don't have the time to fix it" problem.

 

[hunterdan]

First thoughts are that with new lifters, it takes several minutes for them to pump up and get full lift on the rockers. So, what you could be seeing is the injectors spraying normal amounts of fuel, but just not enough air getting in. It doesn't take long for a too rich/lean code to come on. If the engine was clattering from the lifters for a while and smoothed out after they pumped up, clear the codes and check again. You didn't touch/replace injectors at all?
You can use Alfaobd to check the injector pulse width to make sure they're firing evenly across all cylinders.
I also know it's easy for one of the rockers to pop off the pushrods when putting everything back together, so might be worth pulling the valve covers and verifying everything is in place. Or, if you just have injectors that are really dirty from sitting and need a good flush/cleaning to bring them back to life.

 

[EdGs]

Where did you get the parts to do the delete?

Not sure if it has anything to do with it or not, but curious.

If you have a 2015, you need an unlocked pcm as well, settings need changed.

 

[04fxdwgi]

I recently did a non-mds cam and lifter replacement. this included a new set of lifters, a cam, a new timing chain, and a boat load of new gaskets. I rotated everything by hand with the balancer bolt and everything seemed to work just fine. However, now when I start it I have a rough idle and a P0175 code (Rich bank 2/1). Theres Any help would be appreciated. I have dr. googled myself into panic but I'd like more opinions before I start tearing it down again or just sell it and bite the bullet seeing as I'm running into a "I don't have the time to fix it" problem.

Did you do a tune on the engine after you changed all the parts to non-std parts?

If not 1st thing you need to do is get a tuner and an unlocked ECM and do an MDS delete in the tune.
Right now, the ECM thinks there are MDS lifters there, so when engine hits certain "economy" parameters, it enables the MDS solenoids (Which actually won't effect anything except send more oil to the MDS lifter holes), but ECM also shuts off fuel and ignition to 1,7,4,6 cyls.

That will make it toss all kinds of codes and run horribly (run on 4 cyl while those holes still have compression). Not good.

 

[CORam15]

Did you do a tune on the engine after you changed all the parts to non-std parts?

If not 1st thing you need to do is get a tuner and an unlocked ECM and do an MDS delete in the tune.
Right now, the ECM thinks there are MDS lifters there, so when engine hits certain "economy" parameters, it enables the MDS solenoids (Which actually won't effect anything except send more oil to the MDS lifter holes), but ECM also shuts off fuel and ignition to 1,7,4,6 cyls.

That will make it toss all kinds of codes and run horribly (run on 4 cyl while those holes still have compression). Not good.

I sent the ECM in to ModernMuscle Extreme (the same company I got all my parts from) and paid them to unlock and tune for the non-mds system. So I personally have no idea how to check to see if it was done correctly. I honestly just plugged it back in and hoped for the best.

 

[CORam15]

Where did you get the parts to do the delete?

Not sure if it has anything to do with it or not, but curious.

If you have a 2015, you need an unlocked pcm as well, settings need changed.

Modern Muscle Extreme has a non-mds "stock" kit. They also gave me the option to send the ECM in and have it unlocked and tuned. I don't have any way to check if it was done, but I figure it's safe to assume they wouldn't do that. I suppose theres always a chance though.

 

[CORam15]

First thoughts are that with new lifters, it takes several minutes for them to pump up and get full lift on the rockers. So, what you could be seeing is the injectors spraying normal amounts of fuel, but just not enough air getting in. It doesn't take long for a too rich/lean code to come on. If the engine was clattering from the lifters for a while and smoothed out after they pumped up, clear the codes and check again. You didn't touch/replace injectors at all?
You can use Alfaobd to check the injector pulse width to make sure they're firing evenly across all cylinders.
I also know it's easy for one of the rockers to pop off the pushrods when putting everything back together, so might be worth pulling the valve covers and verifying everything is in place. Or, if you just have injectors that are really dirty from sitting and need a good flush/cleaning to bring them back to life.

I had to pull the injectors, but I didn't replace any of them. Pulling the valve covers sounds like a simpler place to look before the timing, so I appreciate that input.

 

[EdGs]

Was mainly concerned if you bought a complete parts kit from Amazon, Ebay, etc. Those $500 to $1K kits don't have a good track record IMO.

I kept the MDS on my '15, and used OE for all internal stuff, and still dropped close to $6K. It's very easy to drop alot of coin in a hurry.

MMX is a good place from what I've read. I'm not sure about their "no tune" stuff, just have no experience with it. Part of the reason I stayed stock, I didn't want to have secondary issues from changing stuff.

As it was, I almost fried my PCM when I reversed the wire for #1 injector plug and the field connector for the alternator.

 

[CORam15]

update: still nothing. every time I run the truck it continues to try and bog down because it's too rich. -15 to -20 on bank 2. I attempted to contact mmx and try to see if maybe the tune was messed up, but they looked at the read file and said everything is good. So, I'm at a complete loss. someone said timing, but I'm not getting any timing codes or misfire codes. but when I pull wires to the coil packs, some of them don't seem to change the way it runs. maybe they aren't firing correctly? replacing coil packs is another option I suppose.

 

[hunterdan]

update: still nothing. every time I run the truck it continues to try and bog down because it's too rich. -15 to -20 on bank 2. I attempted to contact mmx and try to see if maybe the tune was messed up, but they looked at the read file and said everything is good. So, I'm at a complete loss. someone said timing, but I'm not getting any timing codes or misfire codes. but when I pull wires to the coil packs, some of them don't seem to change the way it runs. maybe they aren't firing correctly? replacing coil packs is another option I suppose.

Double check to make sure all your grounds are connected.

 

[EdGs]

Don't toss your original coil packs, they are actually quite robust.

 

[Sherman Bird]

I recently did a non-mds cam and lifter replacement. this included a new set of lifters, a cam, a new timing chain, and a boat load of new gaskets. I rotated everything by hand with the balancer bolt and everything seemed to work just fine. However, now when I start it I have a rough idle and a P0175 code (Rich bank 2/1). Theres Any help would be appreciated. I have dr. googled myself into panic but I'd like more opinions before I start tearing it down again or just sell it and bite the bullet seeing as I'm running into a "I don't have the time to fix it" problem.

Let's assume you did everything correctly. That code lives up there in company of P0300, P0171, and so forth. Those and your codes can be enigmatic at best to diagnose without throwing a lot of parts at it.
A singular rich or lean code (only on one bank) frequently means a fuel control imbalance. And Stellantis isn't all that great in supportive diagnostics in generic scan tools, thus, some basic knowledge is helpful. What is the actual status OF the bank 2 upstream oxygen sensor? Voltage readings? Or, if it is a wide band air/fuel ratio sensor, what mv or ma does it show? Downstream, on THAT bank, what does THAT oxygen sensor read? Is the DTC stand alone, or are there others?