Peculiar Electrical Situation

[tseets1]

Hello all, looking for some insight on an issue I’ve been having. I recently had Spyder taillights for about two years until the LEDs on one of them went out. I ended up purchasing the GTR Carbide taillights (essentially 5th gen lookalikes). Install went fine, pretty hard to mess that up. Now for the odd issue, for whatever reason whenever I turn the steering wheel to the right I get the “passenger taillight out” and whenever I turn it to the left I get the “driver side taillight out”. Of course when I bring the steering wheel back to center they go away. I do notice if I hit my turn signal while the warning light pops on it will hyper flash for a brief second and then back to normal. I’ve been told it is most likely the Clock Spring but I’ve also read that is tied into things other than the taillights. I checked the third brake light and that is fine as well. I wanted to get other opinions before attempting to change the clockspring.

Thanks all!

 

[Mister Luck]

Measure electrical current draw on the lamps when using the turn signals as opposed to activating the signals and pressing your brake peddle.

When pressing the brake peddle the engine idle is sometimes dropped, this could be your alternator’s lowered RPM or the vacuum to your brake booster signal pressure malfunctioning.

I’d personally just go beck the the classic OE tail lights and see if that fixed it.

 

[crash68]

for whatever reason whenever I turn the steering wheel to the right I get the “passenger taillight out” and whenever I turn it to the left I get the “driver side taillight out”

Does this happen only while applying the brakes? or does it happen without? If it's the latter my first guess is call an exorcist.. LOL

You could buy a set of plug in resistors for the taillight like this:
3157 4157 Load Resistor Fix Hyper Flash for Switchback LED Turn Signal Light 50W 6-Ohm (Pack of 2) https://a.co/d/9YsiO00

 

[BossHogg]

I would try Crash68's suggestion before firing off a parts cannon. Since the tail light was the only change, it is likely the new lamps do not pull the current needed to keep a bulb-out message at bay. The lighting circuit measures the amount of current being used and if the measured value is outside of what is expected, it assumes the lamp isn't working. Adding a load resistor will cause additional current to be consumed which will satisfy the circuit bulb-out monitor.

 

[mdc1990zr1]

I would try Crash68's suggestion before firing off a parts cannon. Since the tail light was the only change, it is likely the new lamps do not pull the current needed to keep a bulb-out message at bay. The lighting circuit measures the amount of current being used and if the measured value is outside of what is expected, it assumes the lamp isn't working. Adding a load resistor will cause additional current to be consumed which will satisfy the circuit bulb-out monitor.

I agree, its usually human error and its usually the last thing the human did.

 

[crash68]

I would try Crash68's suggestion before firing off a parts cannon.

If he needs an exorcist..I might know a guy.. LOL

 

[danielmid]

It's also not unheard of for the truck side taillight connector to be corroded or wires damaged/pushed out, but for it to be alternating sides would be odd.

Have you had someone drive behind you and see if the lights actually are losing connection or if it's just the EVIC message? If the lights are working fine then I would be looking at your clock spring theory more.