porting and polishing

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hemi_hawk

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so while I am down waiting on the new driveshaft to get here next week, I though id look into other mods, I do have a green cam lined up and I am ready to pull the trigger but he gave me the option for hardened lifters or hellcat lifters, when I went to my go to guy to get a quote on having them installed as well as long tubes in stalled, he said now would be the time for heads or any thing else I wanted installed while the engine is getting the cam.

I am not real versed in engine work, so I started doing some research but came up with some questions that ill list below.

1. porting and polishing, worth it or not on the 5.7 ?

2. could a 6.4l head work on a 5.7 ?

3. pistons, id like to stick with pump gas are pistons going to give me any thing ( if after market are out their) ?

4. I was always told 6.4 engines have forged internals and 5.7 have cast internals is this true and if so can I get forged internals for the 5.7 ?

5. I was told the v6 fan is a better fan then the v8 fan ( radiator ) true or false ? and is a 180 thermostat worth the upgrade ( its only 35 bucks but still )

6. lastly I have switched between the diablo tune ( which I hear is a 93 tune ) and a 91 tune drove each for a month, I slightly feel more from the diablo tune, either way what are the best parameters ? for example I have mine set for shifting in the high rps cannot remember if it was 5 or 6k but I have not set any thing with the fans for cooling as I am not well versed on any of the parameters, would any one care to share what the best settings would be for the best performance for the canned tune ?

edit:
7. wanted to add one more, what about porting the throttle body ? I was told this is a waste of time, just though id ask

thanks in advance
 

mondo

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Are you doing new springs with that cam also? If so, id do a set Thitek heads. Not the $3800 set of Thiteks but the stock ones that he does his magic to. They have all new better springs, valves etc.
 
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hemi_hawk

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what's your goal?

Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk

To go fast, some day I will go to the drag strip once I get settled in, but fornow I just **** around with my buddies
 
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hemi_hawk

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Are you doing new springs with that cam also? If so, id do a set Thitek heads. Not the $3800 set of Thiteks but the stock ones that he does his magic to. They have all new better springs, valves etc.


Yes new lifters springs and shims, non mds lifters
 

gixxer

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Port and polish would depend on who is doing them and if it’s flow bench tested. Some guy just going at your heads with a grinder might not see much Bemefit but I don’t know the restrictions of the head.
 

mondo

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chrisp2493

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6.4 heads won’t work on a 5.7, the valves will hit the piston wall. The 6.4 crank isn’t interchangeable straight up with a 5.7, it’s going to be a different stroke. You can get forged internals, but unless you seriously plan on running a boosted setup there’s really not any point to spending the money for them on a heads/cam truck.


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RedSRT4Me

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so while I am down waiting on the new driveshaft to get here next week, I though id look into other mods, I do have a green cam lined up and I am ready to pull the trigger but he gave me the option for hardened lifters or hellcat lifters, when I went to my go to guy to get a quote on having them installed as well as long tubes in stalled, he said now would be the time for heads or any thing else I wanted installed while the engine is getting the cam.

I am not real versed in engine work, so I started doing some research but came up with some questions that ill list below.

1. porting and polishing, worth it or not on the 5.7 ?

2. could a 6.4l head work on a 5.7 ?

3. pistons, id like to stick with pump gas are pistons going to give me any thing ( if after market are out their) ?

4. I was always told 6.4 engines have forged internals and 5.7 have cast internals is this true and if so can I get forged internals for the 5.7 ?

5. I was told the v6 fan is a better fan then the v8 fan ( radiator ) true or false ? and is a 180 thermostat worth the upgrade ( its only 35 bucks but still )

6. lastly I have switched between the diablo tune ( which I hear is a 93 tune ) and a 91 tune drove each for a month, I slightly feel more from the diablo tune, either way what are the best parameters ? for example I have mine set for shifting in the high rps cannot remember if it was 5 or 6k but I have not set any thing with the fans for cooling as I am not well versed on any of the parameters, would any one care to share what the best settings would be for the best performance for the canned tune ?

edit:
7. wanted to add one more, what about porting the throttle body ? I was told this is a waste of time, just though id ask

thanks in advance

From the research I've done a lot of your questions can be answered both yes and no.

I'll just number my answers to the corresponding questions.

1. Porting and polishing is not worth the cost on a stock 5.7 block unless you never plan to tear into the block and this is the final mod to grab the last bit of HP out of the engine.

2. Others answered but the 6.4 Apache heads won't install on the eagle block without modifying the Apache head.

3. Raising compression will yield power gains but tuning will be required.

4. No comment on that

5. No comment there either.

6. Since you're getting a greene cam you'll need a greene tune which answers all of those questions.

7. Porting a TB is a supporting mod that helps as the engine is modified. With heads and cam I'd say the TB is adding HP. Stock engine probably not. If you end up stroking the 5.7 then yes that TB will help out a lot more.

Good luck
 

G-Ride990

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If you still have both of the factory fans, I would ditch them for the v6 fan. I did the swap for my buddy in his 2012 and it was plug and play. The tstat swap is so simple that I would do it for peace of mind too. I can't tell you for certain that either will really add horsepower but, a little extra cooling can't hurt. Plus it opens up a ton of room under the hood, coolant gets to operating temp quicker and you get rid of that loud mechanical fan roar.
 

RLJ10X

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Hawk, which driveshaft are you going to replace the blown one?
 
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hemi_hawk

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If you still have both of the factory fans, I would ditch them for the v6 fan. I did the swap for my buddy in his 2012 and it was plug and play. The tstat swap is so simple that I would do it for peace of mind too. I can't tell you for certain that either will really add horsepower but, a little extra cooling can't hurt. Plus it opens up a ton of room under the hood, coolant gets to operating temp quicker and you get rid of that loud mechanical fan roar.


So a v6 fan from a 14 since mi e is a 14 ? And what thermostat should I get ? 180 ?
 
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hemi_hawk

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Hawk, which driveshaft are you going to replace the blown one?


For now just a factory one since it was covered under warranty, but I am either going to try to get adapters and do a 1pc or get the driveshaft shops carbon fiber one
 

Saltillo Express

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I thought I read where the Gen 4 hemi heads flowed pretty good stock. Near what the 6.1 heads did. The cam and tune alone are going to add a lot. Are you considering gears? That was the best upgrade I did going from a 3.55 to 4.56. There's a guy on Ebay selling ported throttle bodies, they're take offs but really nice for $265 shipped. Hand ported too. It made my truck more responsive. FWIW. I did the V6 fan swap and absolutely hated it. I was tuned for it and all that. When it came on it would rattle the change out of the door. And I didn't feel any difference on my truck. It became so annoying I took it off and went back to stock. Yes it was installed correctly. It just drove me nuts. Like a damn jet engine kicking on. You're going to dig that new cam man. :)
 

chrisp2493

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I have a set of 09+ eagle 5.7 heads on my bench waiting to go on my motor. The intake port is a lot smoother then the older 5.7 heads I polished, but the exhaust port can use a lot of work. From what I’ve heard the exhaust ports are somewhat smaller then the should be because of the MDS system they were designed to run for, I think some good gains have been made by opening it up. @ric3xrt has some good knowledge on them. But I just ordered a polishing kit, I can upload some pictures when I get a port polished. To answer a previous post, I’ve seen testing that showed eagles flowed about 330 cfm at .600, pretty much the same as the 6.1 heads. Here is a picture of the eagle intake and exhaust port 46d6b5fb733b556b73bcfb798aefc881.jpg
ef0a9e289f8cdd38e7664b40f01c79fe.jpg


And a picture of how much rougher the intake side was on the early heads
2b9f57fbe59d6508a67161d88b176b18.jpg


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chrisp2493

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And how they looked finished with a polish. I didn’t do any “porting”, just smoothed them out. It was about 20 hours of bench work with a dremel and come crappy sandpaper tips f03ce734d598491c8990ac15e7da075b.jpg
d90cd619732be560f6de20c51e810a66.jpg


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mondo

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1. Porting and polishing is not worth the cost on a stock 5.7 block unless you never plan to tear into the block and this is the final mod to grab the last bit of HP out of the engine.
Heads have to come off for cam installation, lifters anyways, why not upgrade to a fully built head?
 

ric3xrt

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1. porting and polishing, worth it or not on the 5.7 ?

if it's apart , It's worth it, at least the polishing part , 60 Grit intake finish, 120/150 exhaust finish .
porting depends on if you install larger valves ports are already large for the valve size. , for a mild 5.7 one of the biggest gains you'll see is install a 1.60 -1.625 exhaust valve.

2. could a 6.4l head work on a 5.7 ?

short answer is No, it will bolt on, but the exhaust valve is shrouded and can hit the top of the cylinder wall ( there's a more in depth answer to explain "Can hit wall") Valves are way too big to be utilized by 345 CI spinning less than 7K+ Rpms

3. pistons, id like to stick with pump gas are pistons going to give me any thing ( if after market are out their) ?

Tough one, because the Eagle 5.7 already has good compression for a "stock engine" Manley , Mahle , DSS all have aftermarket pistons that will bump up compression.....depends on How much you want to spend, unlike the older 5.7s the eagle has a decent stock piston in it. an 11 to 1 engine all things being equal to a 10 to 1 will make 10/15 more hp, and a 12 to 1 will make roughly 20/30 more than 10 to 1 as long as the fuel doesn't become an issue(knock Ping , blowing a hole in the piston because it leaned out too much)

4. I was always told 6.4 engines have forged internals and 5.7 have cast internals is this true and if so can I get forged internals for the 5.7 ?

6.4 has a forged crankshaft, but the rods are Forged powder metal rods...still powder metal granted stronger then the 5.7s. Pistons are still a cast type, the Hellcat/Demon have Forged pistons. As for Forged internals you can get them, Molnar has a stock(ish)* length G3 crank for about $950 Manley , Eagle and Scat all have 6.24 length rods. To forge a 345(5.7l) will cost as much as stroking it to 392(or 366/370) but either direction, your stock Eagle heads will be enough head to get you in to the Mid 700Hp range(with larger valves)

* stock stroke is 3.58, Molnar NHRA crank is 3.59.
 

G-Ride990

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So a v6 fan from a 14 since mi e is a 14 ? And what thermostat should I get ? 180 ?
I believe the fan you want is for a 2012? If you search here you will find tons of threads on it. I got the 180 myself. Seems to be the go to one here.
 

TRCM

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porting & polishing and other tips

1) just removing metal can make things worse if you don't know what you are doing, just because it is bigger doesn't mean it will flow more air. This includes the valve guide....don't take away a lot of metal unless you have a flow bench to check it with

2) don't polish the intake runner downstream of where the fuel enters (or at all for a carb'd engine). the grits mentioned above by ric3xrt will work fine

3) port match the intake & head to the gasket that will be used

4) get a good 3 (preferably 5) angle valve job

5) lap the valves to the head

6) unshroud the valves in the combustion chamber, but be careful, again, too much is bad

7) pay attention to head gasket thickness as you don't want to lose your quench volume

8) double check spring heights & adjust as necessary

9) always check for flatness on any part that seals by laying a file across it flat and sliding it back and forth with light pressure. Don't file it like you are trying to remove metal, just slide the file back & forth...high & low spots will show up easily
 
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