Power's budget audio build

[rotwiler]

Just bought a Soundqubed s1-1250 mono Amp, they have them on sale for $149 free shipping, so decided to get one. Will give me a couple 100 more watts and I like the bass knob it comes with a clipping indicator.

 

[autokraftgt]

This week going to do more sound deadening and closed cell foam. I use 80mil butyl noico sound deadening and is pretty cheap and quality seems great. I get my closed cell foam from aliexpress and is less than $20 a box, so far only needed one box, but 2 would be perfect. I need some closed cell on the rear doors panel and going to do rear wall this week, install the infinity 1200w 12s and if I have time the 6.5s in front doors and possibly the tweeters from the components in the overhead.

What does the CCF do in this equation?

 

[rotwiler]

What does the CCF do in this equation?

Stops the door rattle, since door is all plastic. Wrote last response fast, so here's more detail. The trucks door skin is just plastic, with multiple plastic areas plastic welded in, so some are not completely solid, so creaks, rattles etc, especially around the door switch and pull handle. Any self stick closed cell foam helps reduce the sound and since it's thick, it puts some resistance on door panel so it doesn't make noise. For overall stopping rattles etc, it is best. The sound deadening I put on actual door of truck, 50mm should be fine, I did 80mm and is kind of heavy, but makes difference. Even with the subwoofers not in truck, the bass coming out of the doors sounds much better. The closed cell foam I used in past I bought from China, but I just ordered a piece from Amazon for under $12 from brand Xcel, is like a 4 foot by 4 foot piece, self stick, for finishing off the install. Once I get the soundqubed Amp Saturday will work on finishing it all off. This stuff is thinner than the last closed cell foam I used. I would prob look for thicker for at least front doors.

 

[Midnight Storm]

Stops the door rsttle, since door is all plastic.

Do you have a link for yours?

 

[rotwiler]

This one looks good.

 

[Midnight Storm]

That costs $47.00 when you live in Canada. Palm to face imoji.

 

[rotwiler]

That costs $47.00 when you live in Canada. Palm to face imoji.

Geesh

 

[Midnight Storm]

Geesh

What can I say? It’s the price I pay to be in the much better USA Ram forum.

 

[rotwiler]

Maybe this one would work, a lot cheaper.

 

[rotwiler]

Aliexpress is really cheap too, but takes 3-4 weeks to get here. I don't think I could afford car audio in Canada lol. Seems like it's all 2-4x more in price. Almost worthwhile to buy, have shipped to your relative in WA, then drive over and pick up. Could get subs, amps etc for over half price. For the 2 infinity kappa 1200w subs I have and the SQ S1-1250 Amp I spent $350. Amp is 1,300 watts rms, guess will see how I like it since it isn't here yet, but should be easily 300 more watts than I have and peak when bass hits will be stronger since it should get like 1600 watts. I really like it has clipping indicator and seen they are reliable. The infinity 1200w subs have really clean sound, bass notes all sound better than expected, is exact spec for my box and seems really well made, the carbon fiber cone is strong. I fd up when screwing in screw for sub and slipped, bounced off the carbon fiber, could have been bad if paper. Can't wait to finish this up. When done will be this: 2015 8.4 nav radio(my trucks a 2013), Amp pro ch41, stock alpine Amp for mids/highs, the SQ, s1-1250 running the (2)Kappa 1200ws @ 1ohm. The dual 12 fiberglass sub box, jbl gx 302 in each corner, infinity 3022cfx in center, jbl power series 6x9 rear doors, Kenwood 2ohm 6.5s in front doors, butyl deadener doors and back behind rear seat and misc closed cell foam for rattles where needed. The big 3 electrical upgrade and 120 Amp fuse, 2g run to Amp for power and ground and Agm battery. I have a ax-dsp also, but don't think it's worth adding unless I replace stock Amp.

 

[autokraftgt]

So, Closed cell foam's function is purely mechanical. It's a decoupler, it's only purpose is to keep one thing from touching another...hence the yoga pad lol. That is why people use ccf between their Butyl deadener and mlv. Think about it...CCF is impervious to water and air due to its closed cell nature, how will it absorb sound? It doesn't. Open cell foam would technically be better at "sound deadening" but no one uses it due to it absorbing water. Regarding ccf "deadening" or limiting resonances, there just isn't enough mass to block or tame anything meaningful. That's where butyl based tiles come in...and 80mm tiles will always be better than 50mm....that is what were are doing, we are adding mass to a panel to reduce resonances...nothing more. CCF has its place for sure. It's thickness has a direct correlation with what frequencies it will redirect. Some will use CCF pads right behind a speaker to redirect back waves...they are pretty thick pads. I remember a competitor wanting to redirect the back waves of his very large midbass and was having issues around 500hz...his ccf pad had to be atleast 4.5" thick to redirect 500hz frequencies. Use ccf as a decoupler, and maybe filling some gaps between two seperate spaces

 

[autokraftgt]

For our back walls, floors, doors, firewalls, roofs, hoods etc...if you want to deaden rattles and buzzes, use the thickest butyl based tile you can. Also, 80mil products are not all the same. Remember, we are simply adding weight and I can confirm that a 80mil Stinger Roadkill deadener is about twice as heavy as Noicos 80mil deadener. I did a side by side and there is a reason Noico is priced the way it is...its way lighter stuff than your higher end deadening tiles.
If you want to take sound deadening to "sound proofing"...you must introduce MLV....however MLV is useless without a decoupler (CCF) So your layers go as followed. Deadening tiles, CCF, MLV. MLV will be the only thing that reduces road noises (higher frequencies) wind, rocks hitting wheel wells, wind noise coming into your rear air vents on back wall, tire howl etc...
rabbit hole enter here

 

[rotwiler]

I did notice even the noico, is really heavy. I did my entire door and weight starts adding up. My front door made all sorts of noises before the closed cell foam, even taking panel off door, you can see why it's so noisy. They take multiple plastic pieces and do these circle type plastic, not sure what you call it, but like melted plastic welds. The CCF made it much better, door panel I had to push in and down at same time when putting panel back on, but that pressure on panel made big difference. I have a box of kilmat to do rear wall. I will never have the energy to pull carpets etc, doors and rear behind seat is all this trucks getting done. Odd the roadkill is twice as heavy, when I was buying butyl deadener, I checked weight of 36sf boxes of 80mm and the noico and roadkill were identical weight, unless recently noico improved product. Even weight by sf showed something like, .7 per sf for the noico and like .65 for the roadkill.

 

[The Gibson]

New dash speakers installed

My METRA harnesses came in this week so I took advantage of the nice afternoon and installed my new Infinity 3 1/2s. Install we really simple. Pop the speaker grill of, remove two screws and the factory speaker, install Metra harness and new speaker with factory screws. Total install took about 15 minutes. This is a must do for $70!!

Did you use the included cross-overs and or did you use a 4 ohm resistor? Thanks!

 

[Power247]

Did you use the included cross-overs and or did you use a 4 ohm resistor? Thanks!

The Infinity 3 1\2s didn't come with crossovers and give that the factory amp already limits the frequencies they didn't need it. I just wired them in direct and they worked great. If you are replacing the dash speakers with actual tweeters then you definitely want to use a crossover to keep the lows out.

Greg
2019 | RAM 2500 | CCSB | 6.4 HEMI
2016 | Heartland Pioneer | DS310

 

[17Limited]

I know this is kind of an old thread, but do you still happen to have your templates? Wondering how you went about making them

 

[Power247]

I know this is kind of an old thread, but do you still happen to have your templates? Wondering how you went about making them

Hey man, I think I may have a template in the wood bin but not sure...

I just used a large piece of cardboard and marked it and trimmed it until I had the shape close to what I wanted. Then traced it on to a piece of MDF and cut and sanded that until it was just right. Then used a router and a flush trim bit to make an exact match.

Greg
2019 | RAM 2500 | CCSB | 6.4 HEMI
2016 | Heartland Pioneer | DS310

 

[17Limited]

Just wanted to follow back up and let you know I ended up creating my own template and making a box myself! Thanks to this thread it wasn’t so bad. I definitely need to work on my fiberglass skills, but it sounds good and doesn’t leak! I did end up having to trim some of the MDS back by the seatbelt, but it fits pretty good



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Power247]

Just wanted to follow back up and let you know I ended up creating my own template and making a box myself! Thanks to this thread it wasn’t so bad. I definitely need to work on my fiberglass skills, but it sounds good and doesn’t leak! I did end up having to trim some of the MDS back by the seatbelt, but it fits pretty good



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks like it came out good. Nice work!

Greg
2019 | RAM 2500 | CCSB | 6.4 HEMI
2016 | Heartland Pioneer | DS310