RAM 1500 5.7 HEMI – Misfire on cylinders 3 and 5 after camshaft and lifter replacement

[jws123]

Make sure your push rod/rocker is moving on cylinder 7. and not to be a ass you used cheap lifters took them apart fixed them and expect them to work 100%. This is why i stopped using cheap parts on a hemi its a very easy job if you just use the OEM cam and lifters yes they are pricey but you would of been done

 

[hakas19rus]

Make sure your push rod/rocker is moving on cylinder 7. and not to be a ass you used cheap lifters took them apart fixed them and expect them to work 100%. This is why i stopped using cheap parts on a hemi its a very easy job if you just use the OEM cam and lifters yes they are pricey but you would of been done

Thanks for the advice, I appreciate it.

I completely understand your point about using OEM parts, and I agree that it would be the best solution long term.

However, I’m currently located in Guatemala, and the situation here is a bit different. The truck itself cost me around $2500–3000 delivered, and ordering a full OEM cam and lifter setup from the US, including shipping, taxes, and import fees, would cost me around $3000 or more.

So at the moment I’m working with what is realistically available on the local market.

That said, I’m using this process to diagnose the issue properly, and I understand that the current setup is not a permanent solution.

Thanks again for your input.

 

[hakas19rus]

Hello everyone,


I have some new updates and details.


The Check Engine light is still on, and since the last repair / lifter modification I have not done anything else.


After the last lifter repair, the check engine still remains, and the scanner still shows a misfire on cylinder 7.


Here is the strange behavior:

• I start the truck and begin driving → it runs normally
• I stop, shut the engine off, and start it again
• after restarting, the engine loses power
• there is almost no power between 1000–2000 RPM
• above that range it starts pulling again

If I shut the engine off once more and restart it again, sometimes everything goes back to normal.


So the issue seems to change after every restart.


The main current fault is still:


cylinder 7 misfire


Has anyone experienced something similar?


What could cause power loss only after restarting the engine?


Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.


Thanks.

 

[Ken226]

Hello everyone,


I have some new updates and details.


The Check Engine light is still on, and since the last repair / lifter modification I have not done anything else.


After the last lifter repair, the check engine still remains, and the scanner still shows a misfire on cylinder 7.


Here is the strange behavior:

• I start the truck and begin driving → it runs normally
• I stop, shut the engine off, and start it again
• after restarting, the engine loses power
• there is almost no power between 1000–2000 RPM
• above that range it starts pulling again

If I shut the engine off once more and restart it again, sometimes everything goes back to normal.


So the issue seems to change after every restart.


The main current fault is still:


cylinder 7 misfire


Has anyone experienced something similar?


What could cause power loss only after restarting the engine?


Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.


Thanks.

Is p0307 the only code it has?



You mentioned previously that you replaced the VVT oil control valve, and also in the past you've indicated that you can't get quality OEM parts. So, safe to assume that the oil control solenoid is cheap chinese junk?

At idle and low RPM, the spring in the cam phaser should keep the cam timing fully advanced. At high rpm, the VVT solenoid allows pressurized oil into the cam phaser, which ******* the timing and allows for more high rpm horsepower. The engine will run like ass @ low rpm, with retarded cam timing.

Here is a theory:

The cheap oil control solenoid is leaking past the piston/pintle, letting too much pressurized oil into the cam phaser, pushing it to the fully retarded position @ low rpm/idle. When the cam timing is fully retarded, it wont run good until higher rpm. When you shut off the engine, the spring inside the cam phaser returns the cam to the advanced position and the engine runs normally again. After awhile, oil leaks past the VVT solenoid pintle and pushes the cam into the retarded position again, and it runs like ass again. Until the next reset.


But, if the cam/crank correlation isn't @ the value the PCM is asking for, it should set a code.


You should monitor the cam/crank position sensors in live data while driving. Determine if the value the PCM asks for is what is actually occurring.

 

[hakas19rus]

Hello everyone,





I have another question.





Has anyone here removed or replaced the fuel pump on this RAM?





My truck is a 2016 RAM 1500 5.7 HEMI, regular cab (3 seats) with a long bed.





I understand that the fuel tank layout may be different on this configuration, so I would really appreciate some guidance.





Could someone please advise:

• where exactly the fuel pump is located on this setup
• what is the easiest way to remove it
• does the tank need to be fully dropped
• are there any specific tips for the regular cab / long bed configuration

Also, if possible, I would really appreciate a purchase link for the correct fuel pump, preferably from Amazon.





Amazon would be the easiest option for me, but if there is a reliable source elsewhere, I would also appreciate the recommendation.





Thanks in advance.

 

[hakas19rus]

Is p0307 the only code it has?



You mentioned previously that you replaced the VVT oil control valve, and also in the past you've indicated that you can't get quality OEM parts. So, safe to assume that the oil control solenoid is cheap chinese junk?

At idle and low RPM, the spring in the cam phaser should keep the cam timing fully advanced. At high rpm, the VVT solenoid allows pressurized oil into the cam phaser, which ******* the timing and allows for more high rpm horsepower. The engine will run like ass @ low rpm, with retarded cam timing.

Here is a theory:

The cheap oil control solenoid is leaking past the piston/pintle, letting too much pressurized oil into the cam phaser, pushing it to the fully retarded position @ low rpm/idle. When the cam timing is fully retarded, it wont run good until higher rpm. When you shut off the engine, the spring inside the cam phaser returns the cam to the advanced position and the engine runs normally again. After awhile, oil leaks past the VVT solenoid pintle and pushes the cam into the retarded position again, and it runs like ass again. Until the next reset.


But, if the cam/crank correlation isn't @ the value the PCM is asking for, it should set a code.


You should monitor the cam/crank position sensors in live data while driving. Determine if the value the PCM asks for is what is actually occurring.

Hello everyone,





Just to clarify regarding the VVT oil control valve.





I did not buy the VVT valve from Amazon. I found it here locally in Guatemala, and it was supplied from Mexico.





The box was marked “Made in Mexico”, and visually the part looks to be good quality. It appears identical to the original valve that was previously installed.





So at this point I do not want to blame the VVT valve right away, although I understand it is still a possibility.





In the near future I will be taking it apart again and rechecking everything, including:

• the MDS valves / MDS solenoids
• the VVT oil control valve
• the valve train components once more

At the same time, I am also considering replacing the fuel pump module as an additional step.





I appreciate all the suggestions and advice.





Thanks.

 

[Ken226]

Yes you need to drop the tank to replace the fuel pump. Search for the part# on Amazon, you'll find tons of them. But if it were me, I would do some testing before I replaced a good, high quality Mopar pump with more Chinese junk to further compound your existing problems.

68253232AA - Mopar Parts Giant

www.moparpartsgiant.com

How to Replace Fuel Pump Module Assembly 2011-2018 RAM 1500 3.6L

Shop TRQ on 1AAuto.comFuel Pump Module Assembly https://trq.video/ia-1AFPU01593Shop TRQ on eBayFuel Pump Module Assembly https://www.ebay.com/itm/23386060429...

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You don't need to take everything apart to test this stuff. That's expensive, wasteful and in many cases, doesn't work anyway.

Just replacing random parts in hopes of getting lucky is a bad strategy. If you suspect the fuel pump, then test the fuel pressure. You'll have a yes/no answer in a couple minutes and won't wasted time replacing good parts with bad parts. There are videos on youtube on how to do this, and the fuel pressure test kit is readily available on Amazon.

Amazon.com: Pro Master Fuel Injection Pressure Tester Kit - Perform Fuel Pressure Testing, Diagnose Weak Fuel Pumps, Test Fuel Flow, and Leak-Down - Works on Vehicles 1997 and Newer : Automotive

Buy Pro Master Fuel Injection Pressure Tester Kit - Perform Fuel Pressure Testing, Diagnose Weak Fuel Pumps, Test Fuel Flow, and Leak-Down - Works on Vehicles 1997 and Newer: Fuel Pressure - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

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Ram Hemi Fuel Pressure Test Part 1 - How To - Diagnose Fuel Delivery Problem #fixed #mechanic #ram

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You never answered this question:




Regarding the VVT solenoid, again, you can test these things without taking anything apart.. Have you done this this:


In Alpha OBD, graph these pids and go for a test drive. Or, if it isn't drivable, run the engine through its rpm range while you record data.




Also, you can simply command it to test itself:



And/or

 

[EdGs]

Regarding fuel pump removal:

Either drop the tank, or lift the bed.

As @Ken226 stated, verify pressure first

In order to lift the bed, you will have to disconnect the wiring for the tail lights, trailer, and bumper, as well as the fuel filler neck from the bed side.

I seriously doubt the cam phaser would cause only a misfire on cylinder 7, as it either advances or re tards (c'mon RamForum censors) ALL valves at the same time.

I still suspect something with those Chinesium lifter assemblies, pushrods, and or valve/rocker.

Were injectors part of the kit you bought? That could also be an issue. Or the coil. Hopefully, you saved the original coils.

Don't give up.

 

[Ken226]

I seriously doubt the cam phaser would cause only a misfire on cylinder 7, as it either advances or re tards (c'mon RamForum censors) ALL valves at the same time.

I think there is more going on that just a cylinder 7 misfire. The no power @ low rpm

These symptons:



Don't seem to have anything to do with a single cylinder misfire. They are however, consistent with retarded cam timing, when resets to default when the engine is shut off and oil pressure drops. But, i've asked "are there any other codes?", and thus far, no answer. Of course, these symptoms could also come from a stretched timing chain, or the cam sprocket being retarded by a tooth. But, there would be crank/cam correlation codes.

Or, there there could be a complete lack of cam position sensor signal, which would result in the engine running in open loop. There would be no VVT code, because the PCM would have no idea what the cam is doing. Leaking injectors could cause it to be really rich at low rpm, which may clear up at high rpm too. But, there should be codes for that (also, unless it's running open loop with no cam position signal). Looking at live data, it would be immediately apparent if the cam position signal was missing.

I still suspect something with those Chinesium lifter assemblies, pushrods, and or valve/rocker.

Were injectors part of the kit you bought? That could also be an issue. Or the coil. Hopefully, you saved the original coils.

Yea, this is probably related to the cylinder 7 misfire, and a completely separate issue that will also need to be resolved.

 

[EdGs]

I think there is more going on that just a cylinder 7 misfire. The no power @ low rpm

These symptons:
View attachment 582540


Don't seem to have anything to do with a single cylinder misfire. They are however, consistent with retarded cam timing, when resets to default when the engine is shut off and oil pressure drops. But, i've asked multiple times in several posts, "are there any other codes?", and thus far, no answer. Of course, these symptoms could also come from a stretched timing chain, or the cam sprocket being retarded by a tooth. But, there would be crank/cam correlation codes.

Yea, this is probably related to the cylinder 7 misfire, and a completely separate issue that will also need to be resolved.

I'd be putting the original cam phaser and vvt solenoid back in, for sure.

I feel bad for the OP, having to go back and forth so much.

 

[Ken226]

I'd be putting the original cam phaser and vvt solenoid back in, for sure.

I feel bad for the OP, having to go back and forth so much.

Yea, same here.

Many of these things don't require any parts and little labor to verify/rule out.

Cam timing: Are cam/crank correlation codes present? look at live data @ various rpm ranges. 30 seconds and the issue is either verified or ruled out. Low oil pressure effects the cam timing, but opposite. Low oil pressure results in the phaser spring advancing the cam to default, which runs fine @ idle and low rpm, but poorly @ higher rpm.

fuel pump: Are there any fuel pump circuit codes? Any 02 sensor lean/rich codes? Are the fuel trims really high or low? Connect a pressure gauge and rev the engine throughout its rpm range. Fuel pressure either holds or doesn't, problem verified or ruled out.

Cylinder 7 misfire will require some work: Suspect cylinder 7 lifter is collapsed, pull valve covers and watch the range of motion. Use a long reach dial indicator to measure and compare to a known good MDS cylinder. If it's normal, do a compression test. If cylinder 7 compression is normal, connect noid light to injector plug. If light is flashing, swap injector with another. If the problem stays @7 after swapping the injector, put noid light to coil wire. If it's flashing, swap coil to another cylinder. If the problem stays, swap spark plug with another cylinder.


Tools like a multimeter, test light, noid lights, compression test kit, fuel pressure test kit, are bare minimum and necessary. Trying to get by without them will usually result in spending more than the cost of the tool, in labor and parts-cannon trial/error testing.

 

[hakas19rus]

Thank you very much, friends, for all your replies, support, and recommendations. I truly appreciate everyone taking the time to help.


First, regarding the old VVT solenoid / oil control valve: unfortunately, I cannot reinstall the original one because it was in very poor condition and had to be literally pulled out during removal. It was not reusable.


The same applies to the original MDS solenoids. All of them were in bad condition and were also very difficult to remove, so reinstalling the old ones is not possible.


Regarding the fault codes: at the moment I currently have the cylinder 7 misfire code and the general P0300 random misfire code.


Regarding the fuel pump, understood, for now I will not remove it. I will first try to find another way to test fuel pressure.


As for deeper scanning and live data diagnostics, unfortunately where I am currently located in a rural area of Guatemala, this kind of advanced diagnostic work is not available. At the moment I only have a basic mobile OBD scanner, which only reads fault codes and does not provide deep live data or advanced functions.


I am currently actively looking for a better scanner that can provide more advanced diagnostics and live data.


As for why I was previously suspecting the oil pump: before the second teardown of the cylinder heads I had an oil pressure related code.


However, I removed and cleaned the oil pressure sensor, and after reassembling the lifters (using a combination of the aftermarket bodies with original internal components), the oil pressure code has not returned.


Regarding the timing chain: earlier in the thread I had already posted photos / video of the chain, and I will try to repost them.


At this point the chain is in correct working position:

• cylinder 1 is at TDC / zero point
• all timing marks line up correctly
• tensioners are in good condition
• no visible issues with the chain system

During the second teardown I also inspected the camshaft with a camera, and its condition looks good.


It has only run approximately 400 km since replacement.


Thanks again everyone for the help.

 

[Ken226]

Thank you very much, friends, for all your replies, support, and recommendations. I truly appreciate everyone taking the time to help.

you're welcome.

As for deeper scanning and live data diagnostics, unfortunately where I am currently located in a rural area of Guatemala, this kind of advanced diagnostic work is not available. At the moment I only have a basic mobile OBD scanner, which only reads fault codes and does not provide deep live data or advanced functions.


I am currently actively looking for a better scanner that can provide more advanced diagnostics and live data.

AlfaOBD is the cheapest way to go.


You said that you can get stuff via Amazon. Here is a screenshot from AlfaOBD of the various OBD2 dongles that will work with AlfaOBD and can also be found on Amazon:



The OBD Link MX+ is what I use, and works very well. The ObdLink MX+ is bluetooth and can be used with Android phones, Tablets, and Windows Laptops that have bluetooth.

But others have had varying degrees of success with the cheaper dongles as well.



The AlfaOBD software can be downloaded from the google play store on an Android phone, or from here on a PC:

AlfaOBD

 

[hakas19rus]

Hello everyone,

I would like to thank everybody who replied, shared advice, gave recommendations, and helped me throughout this whole process. I truly appreciate all the support.

Here is a final update regarding my Dodge RAM 1500 5.7 HEMI.

About 15 days ago I ordered new parts for the truck:

* new lifters
* gaskets
* oil pump
* complete timing kit (chain, tensioners, guides, etc.)
* new MDS solenoids

I will attach the link for the lifters later. Honestly, the quality looks very good and they are visually very similar to OEM parts.

Today we performed the first startup after the repair.

The results:

* no abnormal noises
* all fault codes are gone
* cylinder 7 misfire is gone
* engine runs smooth and quiet
* power is excellent throughout the entire RPM range

Additional work that was done:

* cylinder heads and valves were inspected
* valves were in good condition
* valve stem seals were replaced
* valves were lapped
* injectors were professionally ultrasonic cleaned
* fuel rail pressure and injector flow were tested — everything checked out perfectly

During inspection of the oil pump there was some minor wear visible, so I decided to replace preventively:

* oil pump
* timing chain
* tensioners

Although the old and new chains were almost identical in length.

Also:

* lifters were completely replaced
* camshaft was inspected and remains in excellent condition with no visible wear
(which makes sense since it was replaced around 1000 km ago)
* MDS solenoids were replaced, the old ones were heavily contaminated

I also changed the oil brand and viscosity.

Previously I used Castrol 5W20 as specified on the engine cap.

Now I switched to Valvoline 0W20.

Once again, thank you all very much for your support, advice, and patience throughout this repair process.

Good luck on the road and hopefully fewer engine teardowns for everyone

RAM is a great truck. Even after all of this, I still really like it.

 

[hakas19rus]

Hello everyone,

I would like to thank everybody who replied, shared advice, gave recommendations, and helped me throughout this whole process. I truly appreciate all the support.

Here is a final update regarding my Dodge RAM 1500 5.7 HEMI.

About 15 days ago I ordered new parts for the truck:

* new lifters
* gaskets
* oil pump
* complete timing kit (chain, tensioners, guides, etc.)
* new MDS solenoids

I will attach the link for the lifters later. Honestly, the quality looks very good and they are visually very similar to OEM parts.

Today we performed the first startup after the repair.

The results:

* no abnormal noises
* all fault codes are gone
* cylinder 7 misfire is gone
* engine runs smooth and quiet
* power is excellent throughout the entire RPM range

Additional work that was done:

* cylinder heads and valves were inspected
* valves were in good condition
* valve stem seals were replaced
* valves were lapped
* injectors were professionally ultrasonic cleaned
* fuel rail pressure and injector flow were tested — everything checked out perfectly

During inspection of the oil pump there was some minor wear visible, so I decided to replace preventively:

* oil pump
* timing chain
* tensioners

Although the old and new chains were almost identical in length.

Also:

* lifters were completely replaced
* camshaft was inspected and remains in excellent condition with no visible wear
(which makes sense since it was replaced around 1000 km ago)
* MDS solenoids were replaced, the old ones were heavily contaminated

I also changed the oil brand and viscosity.

Previously I used Castrol 5W20 as specified on the engine cap.

Now I switched to Valvoline 0W20.

Once again, thank you all very much for your support, advice, and patience throughout this repair process.

Good luck on the road and hopefully fewer engine teardowns for everyone

RAM is a great truck. Even after all of this, I still really like it.

Amazon.com: Levantadores HEMI MDS de 5.7L, 16 piezas para Dodge Durango Challenger Charger Ram1500 2005-2021, para Jeep Grand Cherokee, Chrysler 300 5.7L V8 53021726AD 53021726AE : Automotriz

Amazon.com: Levantadores HEMI MDS de 5.7L, 16 piezas para Dodge Durango Challenger Charger Ram1500 2005-2021, para Jeep Grand Cherokee, Chrysler 300 5.7L V8 53021726AD 53021726AE : Automotriz

www.amazon.com

 

[hakas19rus]

you're welcome.




AlfaOBD is the cheapest way to go.


You said that you can get stuff via Amazon. Here is a screenshot from AlfaOBD of the various OBD2 dongles that will work with AlfaOBD and can also be found on Amazon:

View attachment 582559

The OBD Link MX+ is what I use, and works very well. The ObdLink MX+ is bluetooth and can be used with Android phones, Tablets, and Windows Laptops that have bluetooth.

But others have had varying degrees of success with the cheaper dongles as well.

View attachment 582560

The AlfaOBD software can be downloaded from the google play store on an Android phone, or from here on a PC:

AlfaOBD

 

[hakas19rus]

you're welcome.




AlfaOBD is the cheapest way to go.


You said that you can get stuff via Amazon. Here is a screenshot from AlfaOBD of the various OBD2 dongles that will work with AlfaOBD and can also be found on Amazon:

View attachment 582559

The OBD Link MX+ is what I use, and works very well. The ObdLink MX+ is bluetooth and can be used with Android phones, Tablets, and Windows Laptops that have bluetooth.

But others have had varying degrees of success with the cheaper dongles as well.

View attachment 582560

The AlfaOBD software can be downloaded from the google play store on an Android phone, or from here on a PC:

AlfaOBD

https://www.amazon.com/-/es/gp/product/B098LF38DS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A278PTXFISOP9X&psc=1

 

[04fxdwgi]

Amazon.com: Levantadores HEMI MDS de 5.7L, 16 piezas para Dodge Durango Challenger Charger Ram1500 2005-2021, para Jeep Grand Cherokee, Chrysler 300 5.7L V8 53021726AD 53021726AE : Automotriz

Amazon.com: Levantadores HEMI MDS de 5.7L, 16 piezas para Dodge Durango Challenger Charger Ram1500 2005-2021, para Jeep Grand Cherokee, Chrysler 300 5.7L V8 53021726AD 53021726AE : Automotriz

www.amazon.com

Hmmmm 2 bad check marks, and one good one. No reviews.

Best of luck.....

 

[GeauxinUp]

Amazon.com: Levantadores HEMI MDS de 5.7L, 16 piezas para Dodge Durango Challenger Charger Ram1500 2005-2021, para Jeep Grand Cherokee, Chrysler 300 5.7L V8 53021726AD 53021726AE : Automotriz

Amazon.com: Levantadores HEMI MDS de 5.7L, 16 piezas para Dodge Durango Challenger Charger Ram1500 2005-2021, para Jeep Grand Cherokee, Chrysler 300 5.7L V8 53021726AD 53021726AE : Automotriz

www.amazon.com

 

[EdGs]

Glad you finally got it going, I know you are relieved. I hope those parts last well for you.

Please keep us updated as you get more miles on it.