Rear adj. Control arms

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Tim Garceau

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Diameter, meaning the circumference of the swivel joint eye thread is severely smaller than core and OEM which is tube welded.

What material is used? It appears to be cast/forged and could be a potential failure mode. You’d have to estimate/calculate the maximum shear on the 5-link suspension joint.
 
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Diameter, meaning the circumference of the swivel joint eye thread is severely smaller than core and OEM which is tube welded.

What material is used? It appears to be cast/forged and could be a potential failure mode. You’d have to estimate/calculate the maximum shear on the 5-link suspension joint.
Tube material is DOM tubing. Core 4x4 uses a cast steel jam but, I use zinc coated mild steel. 5/16" wall thickness is overkill, and HEAVY.
you are not bending or breaking a 3/16" wall DOM tube. Unless it is in a severe car accident. My weld in bungs are 1.5" OD, and fully Tig welded.
I also did a weight test.

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View attachment 169087

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Diameter, meaning the circumference of the swivel joint eye thread is severely smaller than core and OEM which is tube welded.

What material is used? It appears to be cast/forged and could be a potential failure mode. You’d have to estimate/calculate the maximum shear on the 5-link suspension joint.
My weld in bungs are 1.5" OD.

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IRSmart

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Question: are there actual claims of this other company’s product seizing up due to sand and mud. Or is that just speculation?
 

rwhjr

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Also what keeps either brand from rusting/seizing up from the inside out where the threaded inside is at?

Once you screw the joint ends in its not like that seals out the winter road’s salt infused moisture does it?
 
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Question: are there actual claims of this other company’s product seizing up due to sand and mud. Or is that just speculation?

Not sure, but I chose sealed joints because I do know Heim joints do not hold up to salty winters, and mud because they are not sealed to keep elements out.
Also my joints flex 7.5° more than johhny joints.
 
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Also what keeps either brand from rusting/seizing up from the inside out where the threaded inside is at?

Once you screw the joint ends in its not like that seals out the winter road’s salt infused moisture does it?
I use waterproof grease on my threaded rod ends.
 

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Not sure, but I chose sealed joints because I do know Heim joints do not hold up to salty winters, and mud because they are not sealed to keep elements out.
Also my joints flex 7.5° more than johhny joints.
You just said two different things. I asked if there was evidence that this type of joint were to fail due to the elements as you described, to which you responded (in the same sentence no less) “I don’t know...” and then with “heim joints do not hold up to salty winters, and mud because they are not sealed.” Which is it, is there clear and decisive evidence that the other joints HAVE (not probably, but HAVE) failed due to the difference in design?
 
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You just said two different things. I asked if there was evidence that this type of joint were to fail due to the elements as you described, to which you responded (in the same sentence no less) “I don’t know...” and then with “heim joints do not hold up to salty winters, and mud because they are not sealed.” Which is it, is there clear and decisive evidence that the other joints HAVE (not probably, but HAVE) failed due to the difference in design?

Heim joints are different than johhny joints, but still unsesled.
Unless someone can chime in that has core 4x4 arms, and drives in salty winters, since they are "Unsealed".
 

ryan russell

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But im not sure I like that your arm only has a small threaded part welded to the pipe with minimal theads to hold. When cores have the pipe threaded for more contact
 
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But im not sure I like that your arm only has a small threaded part welded to the pipe with minimal theads to hold. When cores have the pipe threaded for more contact
Grunt fab's weld in **** is 13/32.
Core 4x4's threaded insert is 5/16".
Grunt fab actually has more thickness where the threaded rod end inserts into.

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Tim Garceau

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Again here is your weak point, measure the thread diameter and look how the the Core unit has a radius built in for strength.

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The added sidewall thickness you’re so proud of translates to a smaller diameter male threaded part, so it’s all relative. Until actual strength tests show which is better, using material thicknesses to compare strength is entirely subjective. Maybe their steel is stronger? Maybe the pipe being threaded instead of a weld in **** is stronger? I’d be very interested in seeing actual strength tests between the two to see if the claims of thicker walls and thinner male threaded rods translates to a stronger component. And even if it does, it begs the question: do they NEED to be stronger? Are the ones on the market strong enough, and are all the extra engineering that went into the redesign even necessary? Just thoughts.
 
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