Rear emergency brake

[SD2020]

Ok, so having to replace my e brake pads, ( fell apart, one side had zero pad left at all ) It was a horrible battle with the little room to work with. I did figure out that 3 m neon ear plugs jammed into the spring holes would hold the one rear spring in long enough to wrestle the brakes into position. It worked very well. Anyway, just thought I would share in case it helped anyone. The second side literally only took 15 min to put together after I discovered the trick.

 

[tron67j]

A good post for help for others. Additional advice, e-brakes should be used daily to keep them functional, especially in salt environments like the beach or in winter. I always apply the brake before putting my vehicle in park, puts any pressure on the brake and not the transmission.

 

[SD2020]

I only use mine about once per month, more when I have the boat at the boat launch. It’s very salty here in winter and all the other components are still operating properly.

 

[PowersOf12]

I am in the process of this today (and yesterday). What a horrible experience so far. A couple of things I learned as I did drivers side first.

I should have known but I was placing the lower springs below the e-brake actuator instead of on top of that actuator. This resulted in a lost hour of my life. Next, those pins and clips are just tough no matter how I tried. I dropped the clip easily 50 times on each side (maybe a magnetic tip holder would help). Next, the front lower long spring was easier when I installed the long end of the spring and used a screwdriver to push the short end of the spring in place. Maybe a screwdriver with a dremeled "V" notch would have helped?

Autozone had a parts kit for $35 which is useful if any of your old parts are rusted badly (like mine after 180,000 miles)

My sequence so far was:
1) bottom (back) spring and two shoes in to place
2) left side pin/clip (a third hand holding back of pin helps)
3) right side pin/clip (a third hand holding back of pin helps)
4) check all alignment of parts and install bottom (front) spring
5) adjuster thing (easier to put this in before top spring)
6) top spring
7) Then of course rotor, adjust e-brake, pads, new caliper (yeah one was seized), bleed
8) Go to passenger side

 

[cdn cj]

It may add an hour or two to the process but it’s way easier to remove the axle shafts to access the e-brake pads.
Definitely worth it from the mental health standpoint !

 

[Wild one]

It may add an hour or two to the process but it’s way easier to remove the axle shafts to access the e-brake pads.
Definitely worth it from the mental health standpoint !

It's also a good time to check and replace the outer axle seals,and to look the axle shaft over for bearing wear on it's bearing end. It's also a good time to use a wash gun to clean out the diff housing.
It's also easier on the fingers to do the rear shoes with the axles out of the way

 

[EdGs]

It's also a good time to check and replace the outer axle seals,and to look the axle shaft over for bearing wear on it's bearing end. It's also a good time to use a wash gun to clean out the diff housing.
It's also easier on the fingers to do the rear shoes with the axles out of the way

Also, depending upon your mileage, might want to consider new axle bearings as well. Only around $80 shipped for both OE bearings @RockAuto.

I replaced my seals and bearings at 192k miles and found my driver side bearing was semi-stuck in the bore of the axle tube.



I'm not sure what caused this, but glad I got it out and my axle tube wasn't damaged further.

 

[cdn cj]

Yup, good time to head down the “Might As Well “ rabbit hole……