Rust encapsulation

[S0CAL]

Thinking of doing an undercoating. At a minimum, I want to contain existing rust on my 2010. Anyone have a go-to product? Eastwood, etc? I could go spray or brush, no preference.

As for the undercoating, has anyone had success with POR? Ideally, what does it look like under there after 1+ years?

Cheers

 

[MdMassey]

I have used 3M rust converter in the past with great success. It's thin enough to work in a plastic spray bottle and thick enough to brush on.

I haven't used any undercoating products from POR but I used their fuel tank liner system to fix a motorcycle fuel tank that had sat for 15 years with fuel in it. It wasn't a pretty sight, but once we were done the tank had a beautiful light grey epoxy like coating inside that looked better than the factory finish.

 

[SYKRAMMAN]

With that Eastwood,3m,por, I can just cover up the rust without taking it down to bare metal first??? The rust would still progress under the coating,no?

 

[S0CAL]

With that Eastwood,3m,por, I can just cover up the rust without taking it down to bare metal first??? The rust would still progress under the coating,no?

I do recall reading a product's literature which stated this possibility. But others (and I think general good practice) suggest at a minimum a good wash and wirebrush before application.

My plan is to do my undercarriage in sections, but am still doing research on the most effective method. I don't plan on selling the truck, and have only 120K miles, and I prefer doing rust prevention now rather than major repair later.

 

[SamCassidy]

I do recall reading a product's literature which stated this possibility. But others (and I think general good practice) suggest at a minimum a good wash and wirebrush before application.

My plan is to do my undercarriage in sections, but am still doing research on the most effective method. I don't plan on selling the truck, and have only 120K miles, and I prefer doing rust prevention now rather than major repair later.

I'm looking into doing the POR-15 treatment on approximately 2 sqft of surface rust on my rockers. Amazon has a kit right now that has everything you need with a 4floz can (12sq ft) Be advised with por 15 once you open the can there is no saving it for later. Also if it is exposed to sunlight it needs to have a top coat. The kit included the degreaser, brushes, the 4oz can, and metal prep if it's going on bare metal. There's a ton of videos on youtube of the process you need to do. Best of luck with your undercoating.

 

[blackbetty14]

I've done a ton of POR15. First off the paint is permanent on your skin, use brake clean to get it off immediately. It likes a rough surface so the rougher the better. So the more rusty the better. You want to scrap any loose paint or rust off with a brush, clean it with the degreaser and then hit it with the metal etch. Then paint with the POR15, then top coat if it's exposed to UV.

The coating itself is very strong and slick as it's sort of like a self leveling type of paint. It does take forever to dry tho and it's really affected by outside temps, so don't do it in the cold. Even tho it's tough, once u break the coating or if it lifts for some reason it will just peel off like a sheet of foil. But if u get a good bond and it's protected it should last a long time. I will also state that paint doesn't exactly need the degreaser and metal etch as it all gets very expensive. I just get the paint and use a lot of brake clean to get it all decreased and clean after scuffing it up. POR15 is meant to be brushed on and I wouldn't put it anywhere u want a finished appearance as sometimes the brush strokes don't go away. Also you can reseal the can, line the top with seran wrap like over a few layers into a square bigger than the can and then lay it over the opening, hit the lid back on with a hammer and it will reseal. Depending on how you do u can also use a large clamp to keep pressure on the lid to keep it sealed. I've done this a bunch of times. Sometimes it will create a thick skin in the can but if u poke through it with a screwdriver u will hit paint again.

POR15 works on the principle of no air and no moisture no rust. It seals the rust from both air and moisture and therefore it can't continue to rust. If u peel the paint off u will see the dry rust like it was before u painted it.

 

[S0CAL]

Thanks guys. Stellar advice on POR!

 

[Cecil_]

I'm a fan of fluid film, so far it's been great.

 

[rabbitreborn]

I've used POR 15 on hundreds of Golf Cart frames.

Couple of Tips....

Invest in some Gloves ( I use latex powder free nitrile gloves personally)

Do NOT use a paint brush you ever want to use again. Personally I invest in those cheap foam brushes and throw them away when finished

Make sure there is nothing loose (no flakes of rust or paint) I use a wire cup brush on an air tool and prep the whole area to be painted.

As has been said, any drips should be cleaned immediately using something like Brake Clean.

If you are going to paint the surface after applying POR15, Apply the first coat of paint while the POR 15 is still tacky for best results.

I personally reseal cans all the time using a layer of wax paper between the lid and the can. I have never yet had a can not re-open for me and only once had the can skim over (but as blackbetty said, it was only a skim coating and I was able to use the paint under it)

There is a restoration shop near me that got me using the product. They use it on every frame off restoration they do. They put frames on a rotisserie and coat the entire frame using it and have done so for more than 20 years. He still owns the first car he ever applied the POR15 to and the undercarriage is still in perfect condition.