Set Bils to 2.1 or 2.8?????

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PDTRAD73

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Good choice OP. I love mine at 2.8with the 1.5 spacer. this is with a zone body lift toView attachment 135144 o
Good choice OP. I love mine at 2.8with the 1.5 spacer. this is with a zone body lift toView attachment 135144 o
love the look and stance you got there. That’s exactly what I was going to do 2.8 in the front and 1.5 spacer in the rear. Was also throwing around the idea of a body lift. What size did you go with?
 

shadowhawk

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love the look and stance you got there. That’s exactly what I was going to do 2.8 in the front and 1.5 spacer in the rear. Was also throwing around the idea of a body lift. What size did you go with?

I did the Zone 1.5" body lift. all of my lifting mods align with the fact I won't park outside, so the truck MUST fit under a 7' garage door opening.
 

hodge-xj

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So I'm thinking of trying eibachs protruck lift kit. Basically 5100s but with new coils up front for 2.75" in conjunction with rear coils and shocks for 1" lift. I Had some issues on my last truck tryin this route, left me with about 1/2" down travel up front which rode terrible and has me tentative goin to a 5100 or protruck strut. Could someone measure droop travel at the 2.8 setting for me. Just ride height vs truck lifted by the frame. My truck has a 2 or 2.5 spacer, I measured 4" of droop from ride height. Subtract the spacer size from the calculations since the preload makes up for a strut extension and its looking like I SHOULD see about 1.5-2 of down travel at max height setting. I can live with that and it should still ride fine. Just a bit gun shy and don't exactly feel like doin multiple tear downs if I can avoid it.

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Addicted2fishing

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Good choice OP. I love mine at 2.8with the 1.5 spacer. this is with a zone body lift toView attachment 135144 o

Such a nice truck. I love the look with stock tire size. Never understood raising it 2” and stuffing it with 35’s


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fire101fighter

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Loving the 2.8, and with the .75” spacer in the rear, kept it with a little rake and looks god and drives and rides great


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shadowhawk

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Such a nice truck. I love the look with stock tire size. Never understood raising it 2” and stuffing it with 35’s


Mods: EGR matte black bug deflector, Westin HDX drop steps, rough county bull bar with 20” LED, custom made NW seat covers in real tree camo, husky liner mats, husky liner mud guards, undercover LUX tonneau cover, Tailgate assist, flowmaster super 40 with resonators, tinted 15% front, LED C shaped tail lights. Line-X 5.7’ box

depending on the tires, there's only 1.5"-2" or extra tire height total. To me that doesn't stuff anything, but that's me.
 

RLJ10X

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I called the shop earlier today. Told them to order the 4 Bilsteins for my 11 4X4. So I don't have the instructions yet, obviously.

When you guys say for example, setting 2.8, does that denote the amount the fender well will be raised, in inches?
 

shadowhawk

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the setting people refer to is the ring placement on the shock itsle. Fender height seems to vary a little from truck to truck

F143836859.jpg
 

RLJ10X

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Wow! Thanks!

I really appreciate everyone's patience with me and my dumb questions.

One last dumb question, then I swear that I'll leave you guys alone. I have a 2" puck up front right now (with a blown right OEM shock). Currently, from the floor, to the bottom of my tow hook, is 19". From the top of my front tire, BFG AT TA KOs 275/70/18, which measures 32" tall, to the bottom of the fender well is 6". I'd like to go 3/4" to 1" taller in front. In other words, 20" to the bottom of my tow hook, and 7" in the fender well.

Is there any disadvantage to leaving the puck in, and just going up one notch on the shock? (that should add the desired.7")

Does going up more notches on the Shock do exactly what the puck does, or does going up notches compress the spring more, causing a stiffer ride?

I have an 8" tire/fender gap for the rear. I want the back about an inch higher than the front.
 
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shadowhawk

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using the shock to go up higher does compress the spring more. from what people report, I'd ditch the puck nd use the shocks to handle the lift.
 

RLJ10X

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^ Thats kind of what I'm thinking. I figure the people who make shocks for a living, know more about it than I do.

I'm leaving the rear end alone, going with the 2.1 up front. That should leave about an inch of rake.
 
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hodge-xj

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Also eibach makes a coil to pair with either the 5100s or their own shock that is supposed to give you 2.75 lift up front without having to compress it more. They are like 144 for a set, tire rack sells them pretty cheap. They are new to the market so there's little info. I talked to them and it's 10% stiffer than oem. The yota guys rant and rave about them from the reviews I have found searching, but ride quality is so subjective it's really personal preference. Just to give you get another option. I'm gonna take a shot and try their kit out once I save up.

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RLJ10X

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I compared a still shot of the 5100 asjustable, and the rear shock/strut on my KTM 990 Super Duke. Now I get it.

The motorcycle shock is up side down in comparison to the truck's, which is what I think threw me. It finally makes sense to me how and why the Bilstein adjustable works.

But it has raised one final question. Since the height adjustment comes from moving the spring on the shock body, why would the spring compress more? It's holding the same amount of weight....
 

Turncoat

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My Bils are on the way. Planning on installing them myself. Looks easy enough. Only got 3k miles on my truck so shouldn’t have any problems getting bolts off I would think.
 

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