SILENCE!

[ErnieBoling]

BTW I drove to work today without my rear seat installed (working on Katzkin covers with the seat inside the house). Truck is so loud its not even funny. So even just the seat helps absorb some noise.

If I go the Noico route, I think I can have everything here pretty quickly (thank you, Prime). But Im not sure there is a quick way to get MLV.

Check your cab vents on the back wall. Both my 2014 2500 and my friends' 2014 1500 had the frame for the vents, but the vents were missing the flaps

 

[sumgruuvz]

Keep in mind, it doesn't do any good to make the doors quieter than the windows lol. My truck is like a tomb, but the windows kill me now.

My midbass is horrible right now. I realize it's hard to do anything with the windows, but at least I can get that metal from flappin around.

Heh I wish I were near Texas! For more reasons than just quick MLV

I might go with @sumgruuvz's plan. I can always pull the rear seas out again if I have to.

Im more concerned with the floors because I want to see if it can absorb some of my 2K RPM vibration. Im not really doing this for audio performance reasons.

Mine is for music. lol

 

[chrisbh17]

Landed on a forum page about MLV and they suggested the Trademark Soundproofing stuff, also on Amazon. Price seems OK (109 for 40 sq ft of 1lb stuff) and of course lack of shipping cost is great

CCF they posted a ton of alternatives...some people just used a roll of "pool liner foam" that is put between vinyl liners and the walls of inground pools. Can get that on Home Depot website.

 

[Mudders Beast]

Common to use similar stuff for heat and sound barrier under seats of UTV.

 

[chrisbh17]

Im still wavering on this project. Since I wont be upgrading the stereo Im not sure its worth the cost or not. Even though I will have all of the seats out, I might hold off on doing this for now and think about it again during warm weather or just not do it at all.

 

[StealthSRT10]

Just keep your eyes peeled because of read stories of it actually sliding off. Not very nice and will ruin your interior.

I did this 5 years ago with my 2001 dakota QC and some on the doors slid just a tiny bit. But no issues at all. I did the floor and over the trans where the heat was the greatest and it stayed just fine. Also helped alot. My job was not as pretty as yours

 

[Lucy Girl]

2018 tradesman with radio off just listening to the exhaust, happy camper.

 

[DodgeDude99]

http://www.carinsulation.com/ is a decent priced product.

Peel & Seal is very popular with the 2nd gen Camaro restoring guys. Old cars came with tar/asphalt based sound deadening back in the day.

 

[Aries Rising]

Subscribed.

Re: smells--that can be a bigger issue for some than others. Some smells give my wife a headache (certain perfumes others wear) and some smells (chemical cleaners) can make my stomach upset. (But I have a dog's nose--LOL).

My point is: after reading this, I will buy/beg test patches of whatever products I'm considering, and do the oven test, for smells--and let the wife in on the testing--before choosing one for the truck.

Excellent thread and good luck to the OP!

 

[Floyd1979]

We use the same product
MLY 1# on hvac duct and piping equipment

 

[ErnieBoling]

http://www.carinsulation.com/ is a decent priced product.

Peel & Seal is very popular with the 2nd gen Camaro restoring guys. Old cars came with tar/asphalt based sound deadening back in the day.

I would deff use this as a radiant heat barrier and a decoupler, but still need some CLD to kill resonance and some mass to cancel noise.

 

[ErnieBoling]

We use the same product
MLY 1# on hvac duct and piping equipment

Ditto. The MLV I am using is the 2# weight we use on our piping systems.

 

[S0CAL]

So another member has a great thread on a deadening job he did on his rig. To quote another member, he went "Balls to the wall" lol. Here is a pic of the roof. I'm already scheming on how to cram as much insulation in there as physically possible. I live in south east Texas, and the sun and heat can get pretty brutal here. At 6'4" tall, my head is really close to the headliner, and the heat can be pretty intense when you first get in and for a while until the A/C gets things settled down. I'm thinking about putting the Dynamat on the roof as pictured, then the extra super thick MLV I have layered on 1" maybe more CCF in there between braces, then use some flat strap perpendicular to and attached to the braces. Thoughts?

Yup, that's me. Dynamat products all the way, working out great. Super quiet -- SUPER expensive. Nice job, OP. Given budget constraints, I appreciate the path you took. Anything is an improvement over factory. Since you're hiding it, you should be good. HOWEVER.... do NOT put asphalt-based anything on your roof. It will drop. Get a single box of Dynamat or similar butyl-based product and then thermal insulator (you can go 1/2" no problem). Cheers!

 

[ErnieBoling]

Yup, that's me. Dynamat products all the way, working out great. Super quiet -- SUPER expensive. Nice job, OP. Given budget constraints, I appreciate the path you took. Anything is an improvement over factory. Since you're hiding it, you should be good. HOWEVER.... do NOT put asphalt-based anything on your roof. It will drop. Get a single box of Dynamat or similar butyl-based product and then thermal insulator (you can go 1/2" no problem). Cheers!

Yup, I fully intend to go "NameBrand" on roof and doors for sure.

 

[sumgruuvz]

I did this 5 years ago with my 2001 dakota QC and some on the doors slid just a tiny bit. But no issues at all. I did the floor and over the trans where the heat was the greatest and it stayed just fine. Also helped alot. My job was not as pretty as yours

I'm glad it didn't ruin anything. But on another note, I haven't done mine yet. That was someone else.

 

[Moparfanatic21]

I used Drartex and at first I thought it wouldn't be good because it was cheap. It me it so quiet! I drove at 75 with my radio off and I couldn't hear any of the rattles of the suspension on my 01 Ram (it was the guinea pig). Now my other Rams will get it. They had 3 levels you can install I did all 3. Cost me about $500 shopping around

 

[Dgriffi2]

Am I the only one that doesn't know what the heck any of you are talking about? Lol, but I'm only partly kidding. Is there an entire cottage industry on sound proofing cars and trucks I was unaware of? Any concerns you won't hear sounds that would have in the past alerted you to a problem?

 

[94ram1500]

you know what I used? a roll of that heat protection silver material, I put it on the underside of the headerliner for heat, and under the rug. It worked great for heat but it also deadened the sound, it also glues on with that 3m spray adhesive, good stuff. i bet if you lined the doors it would work great. I found mine at pep boys, it's cheap too

 

[S0CAL]

Am I the only one that doesn't know what the heck any of you are talking about? Lol, but I'm only partly kidding. Is there an entire cottage industry on sound proofing cars and trucks I was unaware of? Any concerns you won't hear sounds that would have in the past alerted you to a problem?

Hehe. Here's the deal, if you get a chance to compare 2 identical vehicles, one with and the other with sound deadening, you will be amazed. Less driver fatigue, easier to hear spoken words at a conversational tone, even crappy radios sound better, thermal insulation. It's something you need to experience to really appreciate. Folks who jump in my truck are simply amazed. They get in thinking all they will hear is road hum from my 37s, a heavy exhaust note and yelling 30 inches from each other.

Bottom line, ANYTHING is better than factory deadening (or the lack thereof).

 

[Marine Les]

My 2018 1500 3.6 is a very quiet ride but after I had an ARE carpeted cap/with the bed rug installed it got a lot quieter. My brother installed the same on his and also noticed the noise reduction. I'm wondering how much noise may be from the bed? I have a 2000 Cummins that is worse than yours I'm sure and wonder if there are inexpensive ways to reduce noise on mine.