Sluggish start up

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Chris19

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Hey all, as the colder slowly start to approach I had a weird rpm fluctuation upon start up. It’s a 14 1500 5.7 with just under 200 kilometres, I started it up in the morning as normal and it fired up but felt off, after a few seconds it sounded like it was struggling to high idle as if it was slightly cammed eventually, it did that for a couple seconds and cleared up. This happened once before a long while ago so I wasn’t too concerned. It does have 2 broken manifold bolts on the passenger side towards the back of the block, I’ve read it’s common there, would that cause this? Cheers.
 

Jeepwalker

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That's possible. I'd probably also remove the air snorkel boot and check inside the throttle bore for fuel deposit build-up. Thats a common maintenance items after a long time, that can goof up idle. When you go to re-install the rubber air boot, quadruple-check that the hidden side doesn't fold under itself in the clamp area (common goof-up).

It's also possible the WIN module is starting to flake-out. If it goes away upon shutdown/re-start, then it might be something with the WIN module. Do a Youtube search ...there's DIY fixes for that.

If you have a scan tool, you might check the ambient and coolant temperatures in the morning before start-up. If you don't have a scan tool, just look up how to ohm out with a multimeter. For example, it might be 40* on an early fall morning, but a drifted sensor might be putting out a signal thinking the temp is actually 75*...which that difference might not be as big of an operational issue when the weather is warmer, but becomes so, when it gets cooler and the engine needs to run richer ...but the computer isn't giving enough fuel. If you need to replace it, I recommend a Mopar unit.

Try those things. They're not difficult to check out.
 

Jeepwalker

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If you DO identify a bit of fuel/carbon build-up inside and around the throttle blade area, clean off with some Throttle Body Cleaner and a soft (nylon) solvent-safe bristle brush (not wire ...not brass!!!). Even a little build-up can goof up idle. Don't forget the back of the throttle blade too. Wait 20 min afterwards for most of the solvent to evaporate.

Wouldn't hurt to check the PCV valve too while you're at it....and make sure the hose to it isn't cracked.
 

Wild one

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If you decide to remove the throttle body to clean it,disconnect the negative battery cable first,then after it's back together and the batteries reconnected,turn the key to the run position,but don't start the truck,and then push the accelerator pedal all the way to the floor slowly and slowly bring it back up,with-in about a 10 sec time frame,then turn the key back off,open and close the drivers door,and then start it,that should do a throttle relearn/reset.
Be very careful when tightening the throttle body back down,as the screws only thread into plastic and are easily stripped.If you do strip one out,it can be repaired by making a stud out of a piece of 1/4" ready rod/all thread rod.
 

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Jeepwalker

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Good tip.

Note: A guy should be able to clean the TB in place w/o removing. I wouldn't remove it. You're just asking for trouble...esp if yer a newbie. The whole clean job should take 15 min. And maybe yours (OP) is clean as a whistle meaning you can just put things back together. :waytogo:
 
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OP
C

Chris19

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That's possible. I'd probably also remove the air snorkel boot and check inside the throttle bore for fuel deposit build-up. Thats a common maintenance items after a long time, that can goof up idle. When you go to re-install the rubber air boot, quadruple-check that the hidden side doesn't fold under itself in the clamp area (common goof-up).

It's also possible the WIN module is starting to flake-out. If it goes away upon shutdown/re-start, then it might be something with the WIN module. Do a Youtube search ...there's DIY fixes for that.

If you have a scan tool, you might check the ambient and coolant temperatures in the morning before start-up. If you don't have a scan tool, just look up how to ohm out with a multimeter. For example, it might be 40* on an early fall morning, but a drifted sensor might be putting out a signal thinking the temp is actually 75*...which that difference might not be as big of an operational issue when the weather is warmer, but becomes so, when it gets cooler and the engine needs to run richer ...but the computer isn't giving enough fuel. If you need to replace it, I recommend a Mopar unit.

Try those things. They're not difficult to check out.
Took the TB off and cleaned it, there was a little carbon build up but nothing terrible. If the sensor is faulty changing it is a simple job and relatively cheap. For the WIN module, what is it that causes poor cold starts? I had no idea that was an issue. Cheers.
 

Burla

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Win module gets carboned up over time and can be cleaned, just one possibility here. When was battery last changed?
 

Burla

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Before replacing Win, bypass to verify that is your issue, make sure you use correct relay position if you will leave this on the truck for any amount of time.

 
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Chris19

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Win module gets carboned up over time and can be cleaned, just one possibility here. When was battery last changed?
Battery was changed in Jan 2022 shortly after I bought the truck. Went with a acdelco I think it’s 800 cca.
 

Burla

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So not the battery then, sad I was hoping for ya that would have been easy fix.
 

09SilverRam

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Is the clutch fan bad and locked up putting additional load on the engine at idle?

You could remove the clutch fan and just run the secondary electric fan for a bit.
 
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Chris19

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Is the clutch fan bad and locked up putting additional load on the engine at idle?

You could remove the clutch fan and just run the secondary electric fan for a bit.
Interesting now that you mention it, typically when I start driving in the morning the fan stays on with the engine rpm's. After a few mins of driving it'll shut off and stay at idle speed. It started doing this after I got it looked at around the time I replaced my battery.
 

09SilverRam

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Interesting now that you mention it, typically when I start driving in the morning the fan stays on with the engine rpm's. After a few mins of driving it'll shut off and stay at idle speed. It started doing this after I got it looked at around the time I replaced my battery.

Pretty easy to knock the clutch fan off and try it out without it.
 
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OP
C

Chris19

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Pretty easy to knock the clutch fan off and try it out without it.
True, any risk of running no clutch fan in this weather. From southwestern Ontario and we're still cruising around mid to high 20's. I don't tow anything and typically do city driving.
 

09SilverRam

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True, any risk of running no clutch fan in this weather. From southwestern Ontario and we're still cruising around mid to high 20's. I don't tow anything and typically do city driving.
No risk, there is an electric fan in front of it. It’s 90 degrees F here and I just ran for a week without the clutch fan before moving to a v6 fan and shroud. The secondary electric fan is fine.
 

jws123

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Battery was changed in Jan 2022 shortly after I bought the truck. Went with a acdelco I think it’s 800 cca.
still test the battery 2022 is considered old they do not last long anymore usually about 2 years.
 

Sherman Bird

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Good tip.

Note: A guy should be able to clean the TB in place w/o removing. I wouldn't remove it. You're just asking for trouble...esp if yer a newbie. The whole clean job should take 15 min. And maybe yours (OP) is clean as a whistle meaning you can just put things back together. :waytogo:
I use an old toothbrush and the GM carbon cleaner in an aerosol can. A/C Delco # 10-3007 or GM long number 1052626. It works well, is a foamy white scrubbing bubbles consistency and has no alcohol in it to contaminate the throttle body. I learned the hard way by using alcohol based cleaners when I had to buy new throttle bodies for customers. The alcohol in so-called throttle body cleaner got past the shaft into the circuit boards on those. This stuff I've been using has never caused a moment of trouble!
 
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