So the unthinkable happened...

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olyelr

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There's not much in the way of axle upgrades unless you want to go aftermarket and stick a 9" or Dana 60 under it,but they aren't exactly bolt in upgrades,they'll require some serious fabricating skills.How badly mangled is the driveshaft,if it's bent,make sure they look very close at the transmission,doubtful the rods would be bent in the engine,but make sure you inform your insurance company that the truck was parked and you're worried the connecting rods inside the engine might have some damage
A dana 60 from a trx should slip right in pretty easily.


Im not sure why upgrading the rear axle on this truck is even a thing though. Unless he puts massive tires on it with gobs of power, the oem axle is just fine.
 

jasonw

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If you want or already have 3.92 gears, the newer RHO rear axles are supposedly pretty much identical to the TRX rear axles, but with 3.92 gears. Unsure if there is a lot of other work involved with that, being the TRX/RHO is a heavily modified 1500 trim with a lot of specific/unique parts.

I also had to fight State Farm back in late 2015/early 2016. Semi truck ran a red light and took out my 2013 Ram 1500. The other guys' insurance company were being jerks about it, despite a police report, multiple witnesses, etc., so I went through my own insurance, State Farm at the time. Repair costs were way over its value, they totaled it.

First offer was on the low end of its trade-in value. I fought with them for a month, give or take, and ended up losing $1k-$2k overall compared to its private party value.
 
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utley

utley

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A dana 60 from a trx should slip right in pretty easily.


Im not sure why upgrading the rear axle on this truck is even a thing though. Unless he puts massive tires on it with gobs of power, the oem axle is just fine.
its not so much as I want to go away from OEM, its more or less like its hard to get new OEM parts for things like this and if its something better and worth looking at Id take a look and see if its worth it. Id like something that wont break so easily, like say a Subaru plowed into my truck and broke the axle in half. Id seriously like to know how the hell that guy still managed to drive off after hitting me that hard.....
 

EdGs

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With cameras? Not sure, but a few neighbors saw it happen. Not sure what the police dug up quite yet though, police report isnt even posted online yet.
Security cameras. Ring cameras, etc.
 
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utley

utley

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Security cameras. Ring cameras, etc.
oh I know, just dont think so. Think my dash cam was the only thing, but I dont know as the case is just opened.
 

CanuckRam1313

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Someone rear ended my truck the other night and decided to run off. Parked out in front of my house on the street, and my dashcam showed a Subaru looking SUV bouncing off my truck and driving off. HOW they managed to drive off, Ive no idea but they hit my truck so hard it broke my rear axle right at the diff. Damage estimate so far is over 10k, and Im not even sure if my insurance will total it or not, but since its looking like its going to be fixed, Im like to upgrade some of the broken stuff. Any suggestions? Definitely would like to get a more beefier axle for starters, and I have an aftermarket bumper picked out. What would ppl suggest?
Could also use a little assistance in identifying the vehicle...idiot caused a Class F felony driving off, and I want some butts.


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Unfortunate this happened, Brother!

HOWEVER... ENSURE you have the claim indicated to cover any potential "future cascading damages as a direct result of this Not At Fault Hit & Run Collision!!!", immediately, before the claim is settled!!!!

With damages like these one could also have future transmission/driveline/suspension, issues, etc., that don't come on until after it's repaired and you start to drive it.

If it's not accounted for now, you're SOL down the road ;)

AND........ get it back to OEM stock as you Do Not want any warranty issues down the road.
The second you start putting on aftermarket parts in an insurance claim you Nullify Everything!!!!!!!!!!
 

CanuckRam1313

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Yeah they left behind their pax side mirror. Police took it with them that night. Vehicle definitely looks local, but with door dash being a thing, it could be anywhere. I've been searching my hood for the past week now looking for it, even behind supermarket parking lots and whatnot. They could not have gone too far.........unless that Subaru is a tank.
Looks like a Subaru Crosstrek to me...
Subaru's are absolute tanks!!
I worked for Subaru Canada at one point in my service career and know these vehicles very well.
 

CanuckRam1313

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Ive never heard of that, how do I make that happen?
Here you go, Brother!

Get on that, like yesterday ;)

I'd also consider indicating "Diminished Value" as well because of the year, mileage, and virtually pristine condition your truck was in before it got hit & run.


Claiming "cascading" or consequential damages in a U.S. vehicle collision involves seeking compensation for losses that occur indirectly after the initial accident, such as additional injuries discovered later, increased vehicle repair costs, or lost income due to medical complications. These damages are compensable, but they require high-quality evidence, such as medical records, expert testimony, and photos.

Steps to Claim Cascading Damages
  • Document Everything Immediately: Keep detailed logs of all medical treatments, missed work, and repair issues that arise after the accident.
  • Establish Causation: You must prove that the new damage or injury is directly linked to the original accident, not a new incident.
  • Seek Immediate Medical Care: Delayed treatment makes it difficult to link injuries to the collision, allowing insurers to claim pre-existing conditions.
  • Get Expert Witness Testimony: Doctors and accident reconstruction specialists are crucial for proving that the long-term or unexpected damages flowed from the accident.
  • Avoid Early Settlement: Do not settle with insurance companies until you understand the full extent of your damages, as they may try to pay only for the initial, obvious damages.
Key Considerations for Cascading Damage Claims
  • Property Damage (Diminished Value): If your vehicle was repaired but is now worth less, or if it had hidden damage, you may be able to file a "diminished value" claim for the added loss in value.
  • Medical Complications: If an injury worsens or requires additional surgeries, these are generally covered, provided there is a clear medical link to the initial trauma.
  • Multi-Vehicle Accidents: In a chain-reaction, liability can be split among multiple parties, meaning you may need to file claims against several drivers to cover all damages.
  • Statute of Limitations: Each state has its own time limit (often 1–3 years) for filing a personal injury lawsuit. Missing this deadline means you cannot sue for additional, later-discovered damages.
  • Comparative Fault: If you are found partly responsible for the accident or its escalation (e.g., not wearing a seatbelt), your compensation may be reduced proportionally.
When to Seek Legal Counsel
Because cascading damages are often contested by insurance companies, you should consult a personal injury lawyer to help navigate complex liability and ensure you do not miss deadlines, particularly if you are in a state with low minimum insurance coverage.


In a US vehicle collision, diminished value is the loss in market value a car suffers due to an accident history (stigma), even after repairs. It represents the difference between pre- and post-accident value. Cascading damages (often implied by "repair-related" or "hidden" damage) are the additional, unexpected issues arising from poor repairs or flaws in the initial repair process.

Key Differences
  • Diminished Value (Inherent): A market reality where a vehicle is worth less on resale because it was wrecked, even if restored to perfect condition. This is a "stigma" loss.

  • Cascading/Repair-Related Damages: Physical issues arising because repairs were low quality, used non-OEM parts, or didn't fix hidden damage (e.g., electronic failures from a wreck, improper paint matching).
Key Considerations
  • Diminished Value: As noted by Top Class Actions, this is often pursued to recoup the inherent loss in value after a car is repaired. Generally can be filed against the at-fault party's insurance.

  • Repair-Related Value Loss: Occurs when repairs fail to bring the car back to its original condition, creating further loss.

  • Reconciling Damage: According to Miller Thomson, the terms can be used to describe the economic loss of a property's value as a result of the property having been damaged.
Typically, you cannot file a diminished value claim if you were at fault. These claims are most successful on newer, high-value vehicles with low mileage.
 
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utley

utley

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I can't claim DIMINISHED value from my insurance company here in MO unfortunately except from the at fault drivers insurance. I'll ask again but I've hit that wall once.
 

G-Ride990

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Such a bummer man!

FYI

Something I learned when my 2016 was totaled two years ago,

According to the body shop I took my truck to (VERY high end place) when frames have broken brackets or parts, They claimed that they are not allowed to weld repair them because of the heat treat on the frame. They can pull them but my truck had a couple cracked and broken brackets on it. SO the seemingly minor repair to my truck was over $20k because they were required to replace the frame for that repair.

Take that with a grain of salt. I don't know how if this is RAM specific or some insurance thing but that isn't the first time I have heard that.

So don't be surprised if when they start tearing your truck down you get a new quote with a whole new frame. Your truck is a heck of a lot worse than mine was.

Good luck with the repairs and insurance. I'll be sure to follow along.
 
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utley

utley

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Such a bummer man!

FYI

Something I learned when my 2016 was totaled two years ago,

According to the body shop I took my truck to (VERY high end place) when frames have physical broken brackets or parts, They claimed that they are not allowed to weld repair them because of the heat treat on the frame. They can pull them but my truck had a couple cracked and broken brackets on it. SO the seemingly minor repair to my truck was over $20k because they were required to replace the frame for that repair.

Take that with a grain of salt. I don't know how if this is RAM specific or some insurance thing but that isn't the first time I have heard that.

So don't be surprised if when they start tearing your truck down you get a new quote with a whole new frame. Your truck is a heck of a lot worse than mine was.

Good luck with the repairs and insurance. I'll be sure to follow along.
I can understand the heat treating of the frame, but welding spots for brackets shouldnt be that big a deal so long as you dont remove the heat treating from a large area. You can chemically check that to verify heat treatment is still intact, but hey if they need to put a new frame on it...I wonder if my insurance company would be better off getting me a new vehicle rather than this. Is that a thing? Cuz Im now wondering if the driveshaft harpooned the tranny into my engine.
 

Marshall

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My last truck was wrote off because the rear axle was broke at the hub. I got a very good payout on it . It was a 4 yrs Laramie with low milage. the bill was going to be $ 14K
Insurance companies will not " up grade it" for you .
What factory built is what you get.
A Good shop will not weld on a broken frame period.

I would suggest be careful about telling the world you are going to jail if you find him is a very good way to end up in jail.
 

Hootbro

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Depending on your policy, demanding "new" parts and getting may not be a thing unless you paid a rider for that coverage. Some insurance companies do not make that an automatic thing and it is up to their discretion unless you paid for the coverage to have it.

About 15 years ago, my daughter's Corolla was parked on the street in front of our house and 17 year old boy crashed is RAM into the back of it and wound up totaling the Corolla. Luckily the kid stop as he could have drive off. They boy claimed to have dropped something on the floor and was fishing for it and that is when he hit the car.
 
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utley

utley

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My last truck was wrote off because the rear axle was broke at the hub. I got a very good payout on it . It was a 4 yrs Laramie with low milage. the bill was going to be $ 14K
Insurance companies will not " up grade it" for you .
I wasnt asking the insurance for upgrades, I was talking about paying the repair shop the difference TO upgrade to better than OEM parts. Also, if the police or my insurance isnt going to do anything to the guy (they have to prove he actually was in the car) I should just accept it and move on?
 
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utley

utley

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Depending on your policy, demanding "new" parts and getting may not be a thing unless you paid a rider for that coverage. Some insurance companies do not make that an automatic thing and it is up to their discretion unless you paid for the coverage to have it.
Ive never heard of that. Then again Ive never had a hit and run that would result in the totaling out of my vehicle (yet). As for new parts, Ive a very low mileage vehicle and I find it appalling that I get to have the possiblility of getting one with 150k+ miles on it and I have to now deal with THAT issue 150k+ miles early. In what way is any of this fair to me? They're a couple grand away from scrapping my vehicle and Ive almost 100k into it just between payments, interest, taxes, upgrades....and the best Im going to get out of it is the difference between what its worth and what I owe. That right there is the only thing Ive been working for paying off these past few years so I guess I dont get to keep anything nice in my life.
 

Hootbro

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Ive never heard of that. Then again Ive never had a hit and run that would result in the totaling out of my vehicle (yet). As for new parts, Ive a very low mileage vehicle and I find it appalling that I get to have the possiblility of getting one with 150k+ miles on it and I have to now deal with THAT issue 150k+ miles early. In what way is any of this fair to me? They're a couple grand away from scrapping my vehicle and Ive almost 100k into it just between payments, interest, taxes, upgrades....and the best Im going to get out of it is the difference between what its worth and what I owe. That right there is the only thing Ive been working for paying off these past few years so I guess I dont get to keep anything nice in my life.
You have to look at your particular policy and read the fine print. Many times there is legalese that gives the insurer discretion on what parts are used in the repair of a vehicle. That can mean OEM new, salvage used and "certified" aftermarket parts.
 

RWlRAM

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Five weeks after I got my '94 it was hit on the rear corner which shoved it into a new Buick Roadmaster which was pushed into another car.
Tailgate, bumper, trailer hitch, left bed side, rear corner of cab smashed in.
Since the truck was so new it was all fixed.

A month after getting it back I was getting on the freeway and no more go.
Trans failed due to being smashed from the rear.
It got fixed under the trucks warranty if I'm not mistaken.

In '17 same truck got rear ended by a Prius and ended up being totaled due to rear frame damage.
In the year before the accident, I put in a new motor, trans and had just installed new set of tires which didn't even have 1K miles on them when it happened, all to the tune of just over $10K.

Insurance squeaked out $5K.
5 months later I had to have a hip replacement.

Good luck in getting satisfaction.
 

Gary Fields

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Having worked as an auto adjuster I'll give you my two cents (actual coins not avaialble). First the use of LKQ parts (Like Kind and Quality) (aka used) part is normal and almost always included for a damaged rear axle. The majority of collisions are on the front and rear assemblies are left untouched. Salvaged parts are a multi-billion dollar business, salvage vehicles and not simply crushed. Used rear assemblies tend to have lower costs. Second, when salvage vehicles are disassembled the entire rear axle assembly is removed as a unit. It includes all suspension and drive parts. The entire assembly is removed and replaced. Everything between the frame and the lug nuts are removed as an assembly. Rear axles have a very low failure rate and most companies will warranty part for as long as you own the vehicle. third, OEM parts are priced and source ala carte- each part priced separately. In many cases it will easily total out a vehicle to use OEM parts compared to LKQ parts. Forth, I don't know the laws regarding part in your state but few states give you the option of OEM parts. In the few that do have that option it usually totals the vehicle. Eventually the vehicle gets sold as salvage, gets repaired with LKQ parts, and sold on a used car lot. Somewhere between 10% and 20% of vehicles in the US have been rebuilt from salvage. Probably not what you want to hear, just the way things are. As far as finding the responsible driver I wish you the best of luck. Even if found the chances of them having insurance or more than eight dollars in their wallet is pretty slim.
 
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