Soot buildup on heater grid if disconnected?

[headdown]

Hello all,
I drive a 2017 Cummins Ram 3500, bone stock. I disconnected the grid heater 2 years ago because I don't want to take even a slim chance on destroying the engine by dropping the notorious bolt into the intake manifold.
My question is about long term soot buildup on the grid heater fins. Normally, any soot is burned off when the grid heater heats up on starting. But since I have it disconnected, this "self - cleaning" process no longer occurs.
Is there any concern with a buildup of soot on the grid heater fins to the point that it begins to restrict air flow to the engine? The MAP sensor is before the grid heater, so I don't think any restriction in air flow would be obvious at the sensor.
Any help appreciated.
Dean

 

[Ritchie_Rich]

Following. I have the same question.

 

[Burla]

Got to delete it, a million YouTube's on it.

And go look at it answer your own question. A picture is worth a thousand words.

 

[Burla]

Plus, when you delete it cut the bolt gone for good. If you have a 2017 that operated with grid heater until 2023, that bolt is probably already rusted out.

Pusher Install - 6.7L Dodge Cummins Heater Grid Delete

The Pusher Heater Grid Delete replaces the restrictive factory heater grid with a fully CNC machined 6061-T6 aluminum plenum cover. Finished in bright silver...

youtu.be

 

[headdown]

Hi guys,
Thanks for the replies. I can of course tear into it and see how it looks, but I don't want to do that if I don't have to. So I was hoping maybe someone here had opened theirs up after running without the grid heater hooked up for a while, and could say if it accumulates much soot.
I have given the bolt the wiggle test and it is solid. And it seem rare enough that it drops into the intake manifold that I have to wonder if a solenoid is (rarely) getting stuck and continuously giving it enough current to weaken and melt it eventually. I don't think it is just a matter of corrosion, as the remains of the bolt usually look melted.
So far since I got the truck it has never seen cold weather. I head to Arizona with my RV every October. But that won't last forever, and if I eventually have to spend winters in Ontario I will want the grid heater to work, so I'd rather not remove it.
I have checked out the Banks air intake with a heater, but have read that it doesn't work that well in serious cold.
I suppose I could hook the grid heater back up on occasion to burn off any soot, but then I worry about releasing any big pieces all at once and having them go through the enigne and into the DPF.
Dean

 

[Burla]

6 bolts and a clamp on the air manifold is that hard to do? Maybe it doesn't mean that much to you then because stuff doesn't get much easier then that. Good luck with it.

 

[headdown]

6 bolts and a clamp on the air manifold is that hard to do? Maybe it doesn't mean that much to you then because stuff doesn't get much easier then that. Good luck with it.

At this point no it doesn't mean enough to me to tear into it. The grid heater is disconnected, so I am not worried about dropping the bolt. Since this is a Cummins Ram forum, it seemed to be an appropriate place to ask if anyone had an answer to my question. I knew before I posted that I had the option of tearing into it to see for myself. Thanks for the advice though.
To actually solve the problem with the BD kit that I am looking at requires a lot more than removing 6 bolts. Wiring harnesses, fuel lines removed, etc.
If it needs to be done then I will eventually do it. But if seems pointless to tear into it if the answer might be at my fingertips on a forum.
Dean

 

[Burla]

6 bolts to answer your question if the grid heater is clogged plus check that bolt for rust and corrosion. Nobody can answer that for you here. If you saw either condition, then you can go to step two delete, if it all looks fine and dandy then your good. You will always wonder if you don't do it. That bolt is the engine killer, if it is clogged you would likely get a code. 6 bolts to check grid, maybe more to check bolt, very doable, though.

 

[Burla]

Here boss, even better all you have to do is jiggle it. No bolts, just jiggle, anyone could do that 1.

Ram 6.7L Grid Heater Bolt Failure Jiggle Test

Here's how you test to see if the nut and bolt in your factory RAM 6.7L Cummins grid heater is loose. If the post jiggles, it indicates that the nut and bolt...

www.youtube.com

 

[tjfdesmo]

Being in AZ I skip the pre-heat cycle anyway. I do the jiggle test whenever I am under the hood.

It is an issue, but it's not the epidemic PT Barnum & Banks is making it out to be. If I were to address it, I would do the BD kit.

The grid bolt issue and the stuck relay issue are two different things, though, obviously, a stuck relay will cause the bolt to burn up. The relay issue began when they went from a electro-mechanical solenoid to a solid state relay.

My 2019 had neither issue, and my 2024 has passed the jiggle test so far. I have a buddy who is a hotshotter and has logged well over a million miles across three trucks, current truck is well over 300K miles. Zero failures.

As to soot, my opinion is these sensational photos of clogged grid warmers are from trucks with other issues.

 

[mtnrider]

Being in AZ I skip the pre-heat cycle anyway. I do the jiggle test whenever I am under the hood.

It is an issue, but it's not the epidemic PT Barnum & Banks is making it out to be. If I were to address it, I would do the BD kit.

The grid bolt issue and the stuck relay issue are two different things, though, obviously, a stuck relay will cause the bolt to burn up. The relay issue began when they went from a electro-mechanical solenoid to a solid state relay.

My 2019 had neither issue, and my 2024 has passed the jiggle test so far. I have a buddy who is a hotshotter and has logged well over a million miles across three trucks, current truck is well over 300K miles. Zero failures.

As to soot, my opinion is these sensational photos of clogged grid warmers are from trucks with other issues.

^ 100% correct.


.

 

[Dusty]

Have little experience with the grid heater issue and I'll probably regret making this entry, but I'm curious anyway.

Does the grid heater have to be operating for the bolt to rust and fall into the intake?

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Laramie Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, 18” wheels. Build Date: 3 June 2018. Now at 132248 miles.

 

[tjfdesmo]

Have little experience with the grid heater issue and I'll probably regret making this entry, but I'm curious anyway.

Does the grid heater have to be operating for the bolt to rust and fall into the intake?

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Laramie Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, 18” wheels. Build Date: 3 June 2018. Now at 132248 miles.

My understanding is yes, it is the high current flow, and heat cycling that erodes the bolt away, not corrosion in the conventional sense.

 

[Ritchie_Rich]

Hello all,
I drive a 2017 Cummins Ram 3500, bone stock. I disconnected the grid heater 2 years ago because I don't want to take even a slim chance on destroying the engine by dropping the notorious bolt into the intake manifold.
My question is about long term soot buildup on the grid heater fins. Normally, any soot is burned off when the grid heater heats up on starting. But since I have it disconnected, this "self - cleaning" process no longer occurs.
Is there any concern with a buildup of soot on the grid heater fins to the point that it begins to restrict air flow to the engine? The MAP sensor is before the grid heater, so I don't think any restriction in air flow would be obvious at the sensor.
Any help appreciated.
Dean

If your truck is running fine don’t worry about it.

 

[cutterman]

Here boss, even better all you have to do is jiggle it. No bolts, just jiggle, anyone could do that 1.

Ram 6.7L Grid Heater Bolt Failure Jiggle Test

Here's how you test to see if the nut and bolt in your factory RAM 6.7L Cummins grid heater is loose. If the post jiggles, it indicates that the nut and bolt...

www.youtube.com

Warning!!! do not do this with engine running. I had a buddy do this while his engine was running and the nut broke off. Now he was lucky and it didn't get sucked into cylinder before he shut engine off, probably due to it being at idle.

 

[cutterman]

Being in AZ I skip the pre-heat cycle anyway. I do the jiggle test whenever I am under the hood.

It is an issue, but it's not the epidemic PT Barnum & Banks is making it out to be. If I were to address it, I would do the BD kit.

The grid bolt issue and the stuck relay issue are two different things, though, obviously, a stuck relay will cause the bolt to burn up. The relay issue began when they went from a electro-mechanical solenoid to a solid state relay.

My 2019 had neither issue, and my 2024 has passed the jiggle test so far. I have a buddy who is a hotshotter and has logged well over a million miles across three trucks, current truck is well over 300K miles. Zero failures.

As to soot, my opinion is these sensational photos of clogged grid warmers are from trucks with other issues.

It is a big issue and more common than you think. It's just that it is more common in the far north than it is in the US. The colder the climate and the more you start your truck in that climate is what effects it more.

 

[cutterman]

My understanding is yes, it is the high current flow, and heat cycling that erodes the bolt away, not corrosion in the conventional sense.

It basically melts the metal over time like a welding rod. It has nothing to do with corrosion. The colder the climate you are in the more of a problem it becomes. It's rare in warmer climates.

 

[tjfdesmo]

It is a big issue and more common than you think. It's just that it is more common in the far north than it is in the US. The colder the climate and the more you start your truck in that climate is what effects it more.

I have friends in ND, MT, ME, OH, PA, NJ, KY, and WV. All have Cummins. 0.00 failures. 0.00 deleted the grid warmer. All sleeping well. As I said, if I were to do it, I would do the BD kit, not the oversold PT Barnum & Banks BS.

 

[cutterman]

I have friends in ND, MT, ME, OH, PA, NJ, KY, and WV. All have Cummins. 0.00 failures. 0.00 deleted the grid warmer. All sleeping well. As I said, if I were to do it, I would do the BD kit, not the oversold PT Barnum & Banks BS.

Apparently you missed the part where I said up North, not US.

 

[Grams]

Hi guys,
Thanks for the replies. I can of course tear into it and see how it looks, but I don't want to do that if I don't have to. So I was hoping maybe someone here had opened theirs up after running without the grid heater hooked up for a while, and could say if it accumulates much soot.
I have given the bolt the wiggle test and it is solid. And it seem rare enough that it drops into the intake manifold that I have to wonder if a solenoid is (rarely) getting stuck and continuously giving it enough current to weaken and melt it eventually. I don't think it is just a matter of corrosion, as the remains of the bolt usually look melted.
So far since I got the truck it has never seen cold weather. I head to Arizona with my RV every October. But that won't last forever, and if I eventually have to spend winters in Ontario I will want the grid heater to work, so I'd rather not remove it.
I have checked out the Banks air intake with a heater, but have read that it doesn't work that well in serious cold.
I suppose I could hook the grid heater back up on occasion to burn off any soot, but then I worry about releasing any big pieces all at once and having them go through the enigne and into the DPF.
Dean

Any soot produced by the EGR and showered upon the grid heater….. is produced and run thru your engine…regardless of whether your grid heater is connected or no.