speedo issue??

[twofeather]

My 2013 Ram 1500 speedo was working intermittently, and now has ceased to work. Dealer scanned and said rear wheel sensor was bad. Replaced both rear sensors. No joy. Replaced VSS, no luck there either. Along with the speedo issue, the low tire pressure warning light and bell goes off intermittently and the power steering only works about half force. Dealer can't give me a definite response to what is causing these issues. Any ideas?

 

[crash68]

Chances are you would have a CEL if the wheel speed sensor(s) were not reading. Does the odometer track mileage? I'm guessing there's a problem with the EVIC itself.

 

[twofeather]

The odometer does not work, and now, the doors do not lock when truck is in motion.

 

[twofeather]

Update. I took to back to dealer. Asked if maybe it could be the EVIC. They took it in the shop and re scanned. Suddenly the Check Eng light came on, The ABS light came on and the traction control light came on. They still offered no definitive solution. A bit of history- during Covid they couldn't get the ecm for a ignition power issue so they did an "overlay". I also asked if maybe that could be part of the problem and was basically told I have no idea what I'm talking about. So, I took my truck and left. Perhaps I will try a different dealership.

 

[RamDiver]

Update. I took to back to dealer. Asked if maybe it could be the EVIC. They took it in the shop and re scanned. Suddenly the Check Eng light came on, The ABS light came on and the traction control light came on. They still offered no definitive solution. A bit of history- during Covid they couldn't get the ecm for a ignition power issue so they did an "overlay". I also asked if maybe that could be part of the problem and was basically told I have no idea what I'm talking about. So, I took my truck and left. Perhaps I will try a different dealership.

What is an overlay, a term for some type of circuit bypass? If they have altered the truck electrical system or rewired it in any way, I would demand that they provide documentation, including schematic diagrams or return the wiring to OEM for no cost. Obviously, their solution is defective.

They sound like they're a bit arrogant, telling you that you don't know what you're talking about. Especially, when they seem to be unable to fix a problem with their product. I agree, time to find a new stealership.

If you're continuing to experience multiple electrical system anomalies, I would backup to the beginning and start with load testing the battery and then verifying all common grounds.

The electronics in our trucks are very sensitive to either one of those conditions being only slightly subpar.

Most auto parts stores will test your battery at no charge. Ideally, make sure they use a toaster type load tester because the results are much more reliable. You might consider buying your own because they're only about $20 from HarbourFreight and a great tool to own. I have 2 of them.

100 Amp, 6/12V Battery Load Tester

Amazing deals on this 100 Amp 6/12V Battery Load Tester at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

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[twofeather]

Battery is new. That was one of the things they tried when all this started. I work nights and this morning on my way home all the instruments stopped. Once I was in my driveway, I turned it off and restarted and most came back on. I also have that exact tester. I'm generally able to repair most of what goes wrong, but electronics is not my forte. I still have a 1976 (bought in 1977) Dodge Power Wagon Warlock version that has the simplest electronic ignition system. (Mallory)