Synthetic Oil

Oil of Choice

  • Castrol Syntec/Edge

    Votes: 236 8.5%
  • Royal Purple

    Votes: 327 11.8%
  • AMSOil

    Votes: 400 14.4%
  • Valvoline Synpower

    Votes: 160 5.8%
  • Mobil 1

    Votes: 994 35.8%
  • Other

    Votes: 662 23.8%

  • Total voters
    2,779

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Trooper2

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I put dyno oil in last oil change and I will only run that for about 5k miles. After that I may switch back to PUP 5/20 or stay dyno. Not sure yet. Either way 10k or more miles per oil change seems like one of the worst ideas ever. HEMI engines are known to be a little quirky and I just can’t fathom going longer then 8k even on PUP. Just my opinion.
 

chrisbh17

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10K miles is nuts IMHO. At minimum I like to have fresh oil in just before the extreme temps (cold, hot), so I change mine at least around May and then again around November. That way before the summer heat or winter cold set in, I have pretty fresh oil and filter.

In my case I end up with a really short OCI since I only drive 6-8K miles per year (spread across 2 vehicles), but with oil being so cheap after rebates, promos, etc, I dont have any issue dumping early (even full synth...I mean PUP was down to 15.00 for 5 quarts after rebate....)
 

SyN

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I agree 100% with your opinion Burla.
Me personally after doing months of reading on these GDI & GDIT or TGDI engines. Also going over many UOA over @ BITOG the majority share a common fuel dilution issues. Mostly caused by excessive idling & short trips (city driving). These remote start idle times are stupid!

I would not extend my OCI much past 4K miles with the TGDI engines.
Don’t give a hoot what A3/B3 or Dexos or D1G2 synthetic oil I was running. These TGDI engines are abusive as hell on these top synthetic oils.

Even with the N/A DI motors I wouldn’t feel comfortable going past 7K.

With today’s fuels: City driving & excessive idling is an oils worst enemy.

This is the main reason: I make a extra effort to more often then most get my autos out on the interstate/highway once a week for at least 10-15 miles @ 65-80mph.
Get that oil up to 200°F for extended period of time.
Especially the wife’s new 2017 Ecoboost Edge.

Special time to myself with an ice cold Dr Pepper and hair nation turned up to 20.
 
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Burla

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https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/31107/oil-lubricant-additives

Comprehensive view of the additives in oils (pretty interesting link), you start to see there is a lot more then just monitoring tbn when considering OCI. Many of these additives are there for the length of the OCI but are not as effective as when new, others disappear- from link It’s important to note that additives are also sacrificial. Once they are gone, they’re gone. One example would be calcium, if the calcium is still there and active why does tbn drop to zero? Because it is there but it is no longer active as the oci grows. Many of the additives also wear out and are not as effective as when oil is new.
 

Ramnewbie

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When I was at the local ram dealer making a delivery a couple of months ago they had 3 cam jobs in there in 1 week. I walked past the tech that was working on one of them and just observed him for a couple of minutes. Don't know this guy at all, but was pretty impressed with the care and precision he was doing his work. I ask him in his opinion what was causing this issue. He said in his opinion it was extended OCI. Take it for what it's worth, this is the same dealer that uses the wrong oil. Jus sayin.

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SyN

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Ramnewbie: This is just me & my one sided opinion.
I have a hard gut feeling it has to do with $hit poor roller lifter design & oil psi with normal operating temp excessive idle time.

Thus the reason the Moly plating of all these high pressure moving parts is so critical.
I can also see Clean/Fresh oil being vital as well. Any bit of oil contamination hampering the function of those tiny needle bearings inside those rollers could be the beginning of a Ah $hit! ——> Top Tier Oil Filter should be top priority? Ya Think?
Just my opinion!

AB60616F-DA3B-4742-B6B6-76C2DF70F4E1.jpeg

There is ALOT of things that I can see in this small complex ******* going bad if the perfect ideal situation is disturbed.

What’s worse is there are more then 1 of these little GEMS within the upper half of this motor where oil flow/psi is less then perfect when the motor is at operating temp @ a stop light with your foot on the break.

Once again just my simple minded outside the box thinking.
 
Last edited:

Burla

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I would love to ask the tech how he knew the history of all 3 cams, or the "cam issue" group in general. I think the default thing out of the dealers mouth is it has to be your fault and the only way they can do that is say long oci. It would be refreshing for a tech to say POS FCA ******* quality pOS, but then again he likely would be fired, lol.
 

AFMoulton

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@RLK can you post a pick of your oil filter change trick? And where you got that cup you use?


2018 2500 6.4 4x4 4.10 Amsoil SS 0w-40, Softopper
Black Rhino Armory 18x9 +12mm
Cooper Stt MAXX LT295/70R18

2016 Durango 5.7 AWD 3.07 Amsoil SS 5W-30
1996 Nissan Altima 2.4 Amsoil SS 5W-30
 

HammerHead

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https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/31107/oil-lubricant-additives

Comprehensive view of the additives in oils (pretty interesting link), you start to see there is a lot more then just monitoring tbn when considering OCI. Many of these additives are there for the length of the OCI but are not as effective as when new, others disappear- from link It’s important to note that additives are also sacrificial. Once they are gone, they’re gone. One example would be calcium, if the calcium is still there and active why does tbn drop to zero? Because it is there but it is no longer active as the oci grows. Many of the additives also wear out and are not as effective as when oil is new.
That article is a snapshot of the book I'm studying. It gets much deeper, interesting and complex. It cost $155 shipped but was worth it.

IMG_0962.JPG
 

Ramnewbie

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Ramnewbie: This is just me & my one sided opinion.
I have a hard gut feeling it has to do with $hit poor roller lifter design & oil psi with normal operating temp excessive idle time.

Thus the reason the Moly plating of all these high pressure moving parts is so critical.

Just my opinion!

View attachment 138040

There is ALOT of things that I can see in this small complex ******* going bad if the perfect ideal situation is disturbed.

What’s worse is there are more then 1 of these little GEMS within the upper half of this motor where oil flow/psi is less then perfect when the motor is at operating temp @ a stop light with your foot on the break.

Once again just my simple minded outside the box thinking.
JMO but I think there are several contributing factors just like you. The only thing we can do is try to iliminate or lessen the effect of as many as we can then just ride it till it dies.

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Ramnewbie

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I would love to ask the tech how he knew the history of all 3 cams, or the "cam issue" group in general. I think the default thing out of the dealers mouth is it has to be your fault and the only way they can do that is say long oci. It would be refreshing for a tech to say POS FCA ******* quality pOS, but then again he likely would be fired, lol.
The only thing I can say to that is 2 of the 3 were company work trucks. I'm thinking the 3rd one was also brings it was a plain white tradesman that had been around the block a few times. If they were treated anything like our company vehicles the only time they get an oil change is sometime after the change oil now light comes on.

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SyN

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^^^^Yes Sir! Wish ALL you the Best of luck & ZERO issues with your Hemi Motors!

Lord knows I have my own to worry about with today’s new diesel technologies.

I can bet my left ******** that over 1/2 of today’s owners only change their oil when the OLM tells them it’s time!
Then they find the nearest quick lube. (Zombie Drivers!)
Maybe more then half. (Especially from the large company aspect.) save $$$ With oil changes but maybe pay more down the road with expensive repairs?

It would be interesting to see a truthful actual survey within the states of drivers whom actually change their own oil & use their own OCI within reason based on logical reasoning.
 
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OCDTech

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The only thing I can say to that is 2 of the 3 were company work trucks. I'm thinking the 3rd one was also brings it was a plain white tradesman that had been around the block a few times. If they were treated anything like our company vehicles the only time they get an oil change is sometime after the change oil now light comes on.

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Well i can tell you my work truck has a **** ton of idle time on it, as many do, so that may have been the reason for the cam in those two.
 

R.L.K.

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@RLK can you post a pick of your oil filter change trick? And where you got that cup you use?


2018 2500 6.4 4x4 4.10 Amsoil SS 0w-40, Softopper
Black Rhino Armory 18x9 +12mm
Cooper Stt MAXX LT295/70R18

2016 Durango 5.7 AWD 3.07 Amsoil SS 5W-30
1996 Nissan Altima 2.4 Amsoil SS 5W-30
I purchased a 1qt plastic mixing container from Lowe's paint Dept . I approach the filter from the front of the truck ( Ramps help with head room )
I lay a couple rags down , break the tq of the filter by hand , put the qt container under the filter then spin the filter down untill it starts to drain , let it drain a bit then spin it off & let the filter fall into the container .
I've never spilled a drop [emoji106][emoji106]

Hope this helps !dbd36c5d6fb7e8c1ddfcd9a72274f0ec.jpgc79a9b04cf0ddc07f794159d7a432be4.jpg4eb7495ec4c41bc9d7cc6949fd9e4bc0.jpgd8b33c4a2b8c68a2c327b90e7a8d74fc.jpg

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Ramnewbie

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I just thought of this, it's interesting that Syn brought up oil pressure, and the oil pressure being so critical to MDS as some have speculated. When I went to 5/30 my oil pressure on the road only went up by 1 maybe 2 psi, however idle oil pressure when hot went up 8 to 10 psi. I still don't let mine idle any more than necessary, however as stated could be one of the contributing factors.

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tidefan1967

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I just thought of this, it's interesting that Syn brought up oil pressure, and the oil pressure being so critical to MDS as some have speculated. When I went to 5/30 my oil pressure on the road only went up by 1 maybe 2 psi, however idle oil pressure when hot went up 8 to 10 psi. I still don't let mine idle any more than necessary, however as stated could be one of the contributing factors.

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That's the second thing I noticed after the distinct lack of valvetrain noise. I have cut my warm up time to the amount of time it takes to walk 20 feet along with driving easy for the first mile I don't anticipate any problems.
Has anybody ran the Redline 5W30 down to the point where the OLM said to change it? Just curious since as I said before roughly 6K is the longest I've ever gone on any synthetic oil change. I would think around 9K is roughly when it will go off so probably a year for me unless I get impatient about that Blackstone report that is.
 

R.L.K.

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That's the second thing I noticed after the distinct lack of valvetrain noise. I have cut my warm up time to the amount of time it takes to walk 20 feet along with driving easy for the first mile I don't anticipate any problems.
Has anybody ran the Redline 5W30 down to the point where the OLM said to change it? Just curious since as I said before roughly 6K is the longest I've ever gone on any synthetic oil change. I would think around 9K is roughly when it will go off so probably a year for me unless I get impatient about that Blackstone report that is.
I've done 7 & 8k on Redline 5W-30 with great UOA's .
I'm currently running Redline 10W-30 and am at 7,843 miles on this oil I believe it says 24% remaining , I'll be changing in October as I always do ...so probably at around 9k .
I believe the olm is just 10% per 1,000 miles ? No fancy oil monitoring to my knowledge , at least this is how it has reflected for the life of my Ram regardless of oil I've ran [emoji1303]

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AFMoulton

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I purchased a 1qt plastic mixing container from Lowe's paint Dept . I approach the filter from the front of the truck ( Ramps help with head room )
I lay a couple rags down , break the tq of the filter by hand , put the qt container under the filter then spin the filter down untill it starts to drain , let it drain a bit then spin it off & let the filter fall into the container .
I've never spilled a drop [emoji106][emoji106]

Hope this helps !dbd36c5d6fb7e8c1ddfcd9a72274f0ec.jpgc79a9b04cf0ddc07f794159d7a432be4.jpg4eb7495ec4c41bc9d7cc6949fd9e4bc0.jpgd8b33c4a2b8c68a2c327b90e7a8d74fc.jpg

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Thank you sir!


2018 2500 6.4 4x4 4.10 Amsoil SS 0w-40, Softopper
Black Rhino Armory 18x9 +12mm
Cooper Stt MAXX LT295/70R18

2016 Durango 5.7 AWD 3.07 Amsoil SS 5W-30
1996 Nissan Altima 2.4 Amsoil SS 5W-30
 

Murphy Slaw

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I've done 7 & 8k on Redline 5W-30 with great UOA's .
I'm currently running Redline 10W-30 and am at 7,843 miles on this oil I believe it says 24% remaining , I'll be changing in October as I always do ...so probably at around 9k .
I believe the olm is just 10% per 1,000 miles ? No fancy oil monitoring to my knowledge , at least this is how it has reflected for the life of my Ram regardless of oil I've ran [emoji1303]

I'm at almost 8000 on my 5; PUP 5w20 and 2 PUP SRT 0w40 blend. OLM says 28% I think the other day.

I had to go to Louisiana and have more miles than I should in August, so I'm changing it this weekend. I'll try to drive less this winter so I don't have to change it in the snow...….
 

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