Synthetic Oil

[Hemi395]

So I'm confused, are Fram Pro and Ultra two different filters?

 

[Hootbro]

So I'm confused, are Fram Pro and Ultra two different filters?

Fram Pro and Fram Pro Synthetic are just upper end bulk pack "jobber" filters. Fram Pro Synthetic would be comparable to a retail shelf sold Fram Ultra.

 

[RodRam]

Straight from Fram you decide..... FRAM Pro provides a quality filter engineered for vehicles that use conventional oil with more regular change intervals of 3,000 to 5,000 miles. Fram Ultra says 15k oci

 

[RodRam]

The Fram Pro would be a good choice if you want flow! It has the most holes, and appears to be just as good

It has the same number of holes as the fram ultra, but not as good of media, the issue with frams is if you look back at the video I posted a few days ago shows the media inside is not fully pleated 100 % it has a flat area on one side, may or may not ever be a issue, I have used them and would again over the restrictive RP now that I researched them.

 

[RodRam]

The Fram Pro would be a good choice if you want flow! It has the most holes, and appears to be just as good

It has the same number of holes as the fram ultra, but not as good of media, the issue with frams is if you look back at the video I posted a few days ago shows the media inside is not fully pleated 100 % it has a flat area on one side, may or may not ever be a issue, I have used them and would again over the restrictive RP now that I researched them. Still imo Wix xp is way better, my truck had light lifter tap on cold starts with RP it went away with the better flowing Wix and others hear can vouch for it doing the same in their trucks too.

 

[AFMoulton]

It has the same number of holes as the fram ultra, but not as good of media, the issue with frams is if you look back at the video I posted a few days ago shows the media inside is not fully pleated 100 % it has a flat area on one side, may or may not ever be a issue, I have used them and would again over the restrictive RP now that I researched them. Still imo Wix xp is way better, my truck had light lifter tap on cold starts with RP it went away with the better flowing Wix and others hear can vouch for it doing the same in their trucks too.

I'm still new to the whole Hemi game, I've yet to hear the tick on either the factory fill or the Amsoil SS 5W30, but it doesn't mean I can set up for success. I really appreciate being able to pick the brain of all you guys who have been around, seen it, done it, got the t-shirt, so to speak.

I have a current set up of Amsoil SS 5W-30 with the RP filter. I'll see how this runs, put about 200 miles on this combo, and will put another 900+ on Saturday. I'll let you all know how it does, I'll get some pics of the OAT, and Oil temp as I go along on this he drive.

Thanks again for the candid, and truthful responses, I would hate to do something "cheap" and harm my engine.

 

[Rampant]

KN may be ok but it has les flow holes like the RP& amsoil my whole point here was a noisy top end in these hemis needs high oil flow especially on cold starts even more so if you run thicker oil, the more holes the better. I'm sold on the wix xp it will be all I use from now on plus its 9.95 RP is 14.95 orielys also puts them on sale 2.00 off a lot of times with no limit on how many you ca buy

I've read through the majority of this colossal thread. While it is interesting and highly debatable, I have one question. Where is the science in any of this? It seems like people are trying to increase their oil pressure by messing with their oil viscosities, filter sizes, and the like. Is that what you really want? That's not what I want at all.

These systems, especially in our newer vehicles are ENGINEERED and tested. They are not just thrown together because of aesthetics or any other reason. Imagine what these manufacturers have at stake. Everyone from the auto manufacturer to the steel company that supplies the materials for the stamped cans, down to the suppliers of the synthetic filter media, and so on. Think about what it does to a company when they have to recall a product they have manufactured hundreds of thousands of or even worse, caused loss of life. And believe me, engineers are held accountable when they make mistakes.

Let's look at fluid science. Pascal's Law applies here, as it does in any closed non-compressible fluid system. It states that "When there is an increase in pressure at any point in a confined fluid, there is an equal increase at every other point in the container." The ultimate goal of our lubrication system is to protect and prolong the lives of the bearings in our rotating assemblies, correct? So why would you want to induce more resistance to laminar flow in order to increase the overall oil pressure? Ever heard the term "Ten pounds of **** in a five pound bag"?

Let's look at the oil pump. Pumps provide flow. That is all. The pressure is a result of resistance in the given system. The two are inversely proportionate. In our case, we only want the resistance to be in the tight tolerances of our oil journals/bearing surfaces. In a given space, you can only fit a given number of molecules. In the case of the bearings, what are you doing by using thicker oil? You are adding resistance to flow (slowing the amount of filtered fluid that passes by any given point in a set amount of time) and thusly, increasing pressure. The space between the bearing surfaces does not immediately vary, and by increasing oil viscosity, you can change where the resistance in the system is supposed to be (space between bearings) to the filter media and/or other parts of the system.

It is not just the filter, pump, and bearings in the system. Remember, in the 5.7 and 6.4 liter Hemi's, they use a Variable Valve Timing (VVT), which is a system operated by oil flow. It takes a certain amount of flow to allow the system to react in a timely manner to input conditions of the motor. The oil journals are only so large as well, so think about it: it it easier to push water or syrup through a straw? Some have said they've gotten a CEL and a VVT related code when they have strayed from factory recommended viscosities. Does it make sense now why this happens? Yes, it can greatly affect the performance of your motor, too. i.e., the computer asks for x amount of valve timing, but the VVT system cannot react fast enough because the oil is too thick to travel fast enough through the small journal... on pops the CEL... you get the gist.

As for the number and size of the holes in the thread plate of the oil filter, I can assure you they are engineered to be able to flow more than the filter media can handle, which is one of the myriad of reasons why there is a bypass valve built in. If you did change to a different filter and your oil pressure increased significantly, your gauge is now reading the resistance of the oil filter media to flow and not your bearing tolerances. Same with using a thicker oil. It is a false gratification and a human flaw in thinking that 'more is always better'.

Remember, the oil travels from the pump into the filter first. The filter has to be full before it can flow anywhere else. Some have said they want to use a larger capacity filter because it filters more. More is always better, right? The more time it takes on startup to fill and pressurize the filter, the longer your bearings are being starved of their lifeblood.

Bottom line. Use the manufacturer's recommended viscosity of oil. Pick any flavor you like, as long as it falls within the specified parameters. Use the highest quality filter you can find THAT IS ENGINEERED FOR USE ON YOUR ENGINE. Just because the hole size and thread pitch are the same, does not mean the internals are engineered to sufficiently filter your system. Most importantly, CHANGE THE OIL AND FILTER AT OR BEFORE manufacturer specified intervals!

23 years in dynamic fluid power. I've learned a thing or two along the way.

 

[carnage521]

I've read through the majority of this colossal thread. While it is interesting and highly debatable, I have one question. Where is the science in any of this? It seems like people are trying to increase their oil pressure by messing with their oil viscosities, filter sizes, and the like. Is that what you really want? That's not what I want at all.



These systems, especially in our newer vehicles are ENGINEERED and tested. They are not just thrown together because of aesthetics or any other reason. Imagine what these manufacturers have at stake. Everyone from the auto manufacturer to the steel company that supplies the materials for the stamped cans, down to the suppliers of the synthetic filter media, and so on. Think about what it does to a company when they have to recall a product they have manufactured hundreds of thousands of or even worse, caused loss of life. And believe me, engineers are held accountable when they make mistakes.



Let's look at fluid science. Pascal's Law applies here, as it does in any closed non-compressible fluid system. It states that "When there is an increase in pressure at any point in a confined fluid, there is an equal increase at every other point in the container." The ultimate goal of our lubrication system is to protect and prolong the lives of the bearings in our rotating assemblies, correct? So why would you want to induce more resistance to laminar flow in order to increase the overall oil pressure? Ever heard the term "Ten pounds of **** in a five pound bag"?



Let's look at the oil pump. Pumps provide flow. That is all. The pressure is a result of resistance in the given system. The two are inversely proportionate. In our case, we only want the resistance to be in the tight tolerances of our oil journals/bearing surfaces. In a given space, you can only fit a given number of molecules. In the case of the bearings, what are you doing by using thicker oil? You are adding resistance to flow (slowing the amount of filtered fluid that passes by any given point in a set amount of time) and thusly, increasing pressure. The space between the bearing surfaces does not immediately vary, and by increasing oil viscosity, you can change where the resistance in the system is supposed to be (space between bearings) to the filter media and/or other parts of the system.



It is not just the filter, pump, and bearings in the system. Remember, in the 5.7 and 6.4 liter Hemi's, they use a Variable Valve Timing (VVT), which is a system operated by oil flow. It takes a certain amount of flow to allow the system to react in a timely manner to input conditions of the motor. The oil journals are only so large as well, so think about it: it it easier to push water or syrup through a straw? Some have said they've gotten a CEL and a VVT related code when they have strayed from factory recommended viscosities. Does it make sense now why this happens? Yes, it can greatly affect the performance of your motor, too. i.e., the computer asks for x amount of valve timing, but the VVT system cannot react fast enough because the oil is too thick to travel fast enough through the small journal... on pops the CEL... you get the gist.



As for the number and size of the holes in the thread plate of the oil filter, I can assure you they are engineered to be able to flow more than the filter media can handle, which is one of the myriad of reasons why there is a bypass valve built in. If you did change to a different filter and your oil pressure increased significantly, your gauge is now reading the resistance of the oil filter media to flow and not your bearing tolerances. Same with using a thicker oil. It is a false gratification and a human flaw in thinking that 'more is always better'.



Remember, the oil travels from the pump into the filter first. The filter has to be full before it can flow anywhere else. Some have said they want to use a larger capacity filter because it filters more. More is always better, right? The more time it takes on startup to fill and pressurize the filter, the longer your bearings are being starved of their lifeblood.



Bottom line. Use the manufacturer's recommended viscosity of oil. Pick any flavor you like, as long as it falls within the specified parameters. Use the highest quality filter you can find THAT IS ENGINEERED FOR USE ON YOUR ENGINE. Just because the hole size and thread pitch are the same, does not mean the internals are engineered to sufficiently filter your system. Most importantly, CHANGE THE OIL AND FILTER AT OR BEFORE manufacturer specified intervals!



23 years in dynamic fluid power. I've learned a thing or two along the way.

I couldn't agree more! Nice post

 

[Kotta390]

I've read through the majority of this colossal thread. While it is interesting and highly debatable, I have one question. Where is the science in any of this? It seems like people are trying to increase their oil pressure by messing with their oil viscosities, filter sizes, and the like. Is that what you really want? That's not what I want at all.

These systems, especially in our newer vehicles are ENGINEERED and tested. They are not just thrown together because of aesthetics or any other reason. Imagine what these manufacturers have at stake. Everyone from the auto manufacturer to the steel company that supplies the materials for the stamped cans, down to the suppliers of the synthetic filter media, and so on. Think about what it does to a company when they have to recall a product they have manufactured hundreds of thousands of or even worse, caused loss of life. And believe me, engineers are held accountable when they make mistakes.

Let's look at fluid science. Pascal's Law applies here, as it does in any closed non-compressible fluid system. It states that "When there is an increase in pressure at any point in a confined fluid, there is an equal increase at every other point in the container." The ultimate goal of our lubrication system is to protect and prolong the lives of the bearings in our rotating assemblies, correct? So why would you want to induce more resistance to laminar flow in order to increase the overall oil pressure? Ever heard the term "Ten pounds of **** in a five pound bag"?

Let's look at the oil pump. Pumps provide flow. That is all. The pressure is a result of resistance in the given system. The two are inversely proportionate. In our case, we only want the resistance to be in the tight tolerances of our oil journals/bearing surfaces. In a given space, you can only fit a given number of molecules. In the case of the bearings, what are you doing by using thicker oil? You are adding resistance to flow (slowing the amount of filtered fluid that passes by any given point in a set amount of time) and thusly, increasing pressure. The space between the bearing surfaces does not immediately vary, and by increasing oil viscosity, you can change where the resistance in the system is supposed to be (space between bearings) to the filter media and/or other parts of the system.

It is not just the filter, pump, and bearings in the system. Remember, in the 5.7 and 6.4 liter Hemi's, they use a Variable Valve Timing (VVT), which is a system operated by oil flow. It takes a certain amount of flow to allow the system to react in a timely manner to input conditions of the motor. The oil journals are only so large as well, so think about it: it it easier to push water or syrup through a straw? Some have said they've gotten a CEL and a VVT related code when they have strayed from factory recommended viscosities. Does it make sense now why this happens? Yes, it can greatly affect the performance of your motor, too. i.e., the computer asks for x amount of valve timing, but the VVT system cannot react fast enough because the oil is too thick to travel fast enough through the small journal... on pops the CEL... you get the gist.

As for the number and size of the holes in the thread plate of the oil filter, I can assure you they are engineered to be able to flow more than the filter media can handle, which is one of the myriad of reasons why there is a bypass valve built in. If you did change to a different filter and your oil pressure increased significantly, your gauge is now reading the resistance of the oil filter media to flow and not your bearing tolerances. Same with using a thicker oil. It is a false gratification and a human flaw in thinking that 'more is always better'.

Remember, the oil travels from the pump into the filter first. The filter has to be full before it can flow anywhere else. Some have said they want to use a larger capacity filter because it filters more. More is always better, right? The more time it takes on startup to fill and pressurize the filter, the longer your bearings are being starved of their lifeblood.

Bottom line. Use the manufacturer's recommended viscosity of oil. Pick any flavor you like, as long as it falls within the specified parameters. Use the highest quality filter you can find THAT IS ENGINEERED FOR USE ON YOUR ENGINE. Just because the hole size and thread pitch are the same, does not mean the internals are engineered to sufficiently filter your system. Most importantly, CHANGE THE OIL AND FILTER AT OR BEFORE manufacturer specified intervals!

23 years in dynamic fluid power. I've learned a thing or two along the way.

Very well written post. I have been smh everytime I hear of people using 5-30 or 0-40 or whatever flavor of oil they "THINK" is better then the OEM 5.7L recommended use. I understand that some people will use the term "recommended" very loosely and use whatever they feel is necessary to keep lifter tick noise down on start-up. Some people will argue that their fuel mileage has went up in the change of oil viscosity.

 

[AFMoulton]

Very well written post. I have been smh everytime I hear of people using 5-30 or 0-40 or whatever flavor of oil they "THINK" is better then the OEM 5.7L recommended use. I understand that some people will use the term "recommended" very loosely and use whatever they feel is necessary to keep lifter tick noise down on start-up. Some people will argue that their fuel mileage has went up in the change of oil viscosity.

5W30 is recommended in the owners manual, for severe use. So if it's recommended what's wrong with using it? 30w protects better than 20W, that is a proven fact, along with filters having an anti-drainback valve, are better than filters without.

The problem with your arguments, is that these guys have done UOA, and seen results first hand. So why knock what they feel works best for them? You act like these mass produced engines, are all built exactly the same with exactly the same tolerance, WRONG. Maybe all his years in fluid dynamic power have taught him some valuable lessons, and that's great, bring your knowledge and experience and teach us.

I will say this, jet engines we use on high performance aircraft, use only synthetic oils/lubes. So if we trust our jet engines with way higher temps than 230* to synthetics, why wouldn't I use synthetic in my truck engine? Why would I not use something with a little heavier weight to help protect the engine? I'm not dumping 20W-50 in, I'm using 5W-30, oil which is recommended for the 5.7, and what is filled in the 2500 5.7 at the factory, so why shake your head at us? What good do you get from it?

 

[RodRam]

I've read through the majority of this colossal thread. While it is interesting and highly debatable, I have one question. Where is the science in any of this? It seems like people are trying to increase their oil pressure by messing with their oil viscosities, filter sizes, and the like. Is that what you really want? That's not what I want at all.

These systems, especially in our newer vehicles are ENGINEERED and tested. They are not just thrown together because of aesthetics or any other reason. Imagine what these manufacturers have at stake. Everyone from the auto manufacturer to the steel company that supplies the materials for the stamped cans, down to the suppliers of the synthetic filter media, and so on. Think about what it does to a company when they have to recall a product they have manufactured hundreds of thousands of or even worse, caused loss of life. And believe me, engineers are held accountable when they make mistakes.

Let's look at fluid science. Pascal's Law applies here, as it does in any closed non-compressible fluid system. It states that "When there is an increase in pressure at any point in a confined fluid, there is an equal increase at every other point in the container." The ultimate goal of our lubrication system is to protect and prolong the lives of the bearings in our rotating assemblies, correct? So why would you want to induce more resistance to laminar flow in order to increase the overall oil pressure? Ever heard the term "Ten pounds of **** in a five pound bag"?

Let's look at the oil pump. Pumps provide flow. That is all. The pressure is a result of resistance in the given system. The two are inversely proportionate. In our case, we only want the resistance to be in the tight tolerances of our oil journals/bearing surfaces. In a given space, you can only fit a given number of molecules. In the case of the bearings, what are you doing by using thicker oil? You are adding resistance to flow (slowing the amount of filtered fluid that passes by any given point in a set amount of time) and thusly, increasing pressure. The space between the bearing surfaces does not immediately vary, and by increasing oil viscosity, you can change where the resistance in the system is supposed to be (space between bearings) to the filter media and/or other parts of the system.

It is not just the filter, pump, and bearings in the system. Remember, in the 5.7 and 6.4 liter Hemi's, they use a Variable Valve Timing (VVT), which is a system operated by oil flow. It takes a certain amount of flow to allow the system to react in a timely manner to input conditions of the motor. The oil journals are only so large as well, so think about it: it it easier to push water or syrup through a straw? Some have said they've gotten a CEL and a VVT related code when they have strayed from factory recommended viscosities. Does it make sense now why this happens? Yes, it can greatly affect the performance of your motor, too. i.e., the computer asks for x amount of valve timing, but the VVT system cannot react fast enough because the oil is too thick to travel fast enough through the small journal... on pops the CEL... you get the gist.

As for the number and size of the holes in the thread plate of the oil filter, I can assure you they are engineered to be able to flow more than the filter media can handle, which is one of the myriad of reasons why there is a bypass valve built in. If you did change to a different filter and your oil pressure increased significantly, your gauge is now reading the resistance of the oil filter media to flow and not your bearing tolerances. Same with using a thicker oil. It is a false gratification and a human flaw in thinking that 'more is always better'.

Remember, the oil travels from the pump into the filter first. The filter has to be full before it can flow anywhere else. Some have said they want to use a larger capacity filter because it filters more. More is always better, right? The more time it takes on startup to fill and pressurize the filter, the longer your bearings are being starved of their lifeblood.

Bottom line. Use the manufacturer's recommended viscosity of oil. Pick any flavor you like, as long as it falls within the specified parameters. Use the highest quality filter you can find THAT IS ENGINEERED FOR USE ON YOUR ENGINE. Just because the hole size and thread pitch are the same, does not mean the internals are engineered to sufficiently filter your system. Most importantly, CHANGE THE OIL AND FILTER AT OR BEFORE manufacturer specified intervals!

23 years in dynamic fluid power. I've learned a thing or two along the way.

Some of what you say I agree with, in my hands on not just reading forum's i have tried many oils and filters trying to solve a tap my truck has when cold, it completely goes away when hot, what ive learned is that i my tap is quieter and goes away faster on 5-20 than on 5-30 also i have better MPG,
acceleration and MDS function on the recommended 5-20 oil however it does preform very well on 5-30 . But there is a big difference in oil and it comes across easily in these hemis any GTL oil from Pennzoil in 5-20 will give you a very noisy motor on startup and running compared to hydrocracked oils in the same grade I prefer what Ive found to be the best oil and filter combo for my truck and that's Amsoil signature series 5-20 and the wix xp filter so I'm done testing for ever i hope. These last pages discussing filters was nothing but trying to pick the better of top tier brands for the hemi, filters are not all alike either ive ran all of the top brands and found some flow better and hemis like oil flow, some filters were just not built as good and like the royal purple i found it to be flow restrictive compared with the wix xp. How do i know? My truck had a faint lifter click on cold starts with the RP that went away when i switched and i had better oil pressure, same oil just a filter change that's real world results if only in my motor which after all is all i really care about, not trying to get folks to do what i do just spreading my findings to others as they do here too to determine if something they tried might work for me or vice versa. I don't agree with the guys here that run thick combos of mixed viscosity oils as i feel like you the 5.7 was designed to optimally preform on 5-20 oil and there is zero reasons to go heavier unless you tow heavy or are severe duty and then as the owners manual states 5-30 can be used. Most of them say they have no noise or ticks or taps so not sure what they are searching for by doing this but i find it interesting to hear about it anyway. I'm sure if or when they hit the syrup level that throws a oil code they will reconsider. Forums are just sounding boards read what you want believe what you want and do what you want, its all good.

 

[Kotta390]

5W30 is recommended in the owners manual, for severe use. So if it's recommended what's wrong with using it? 30w protects better than 20W, that is a proven fact, along with filters having an anti-drainback valve, are better than filters without.

The problem with your arguments, is that these guys have done UOA, and seen results first hand. So why knock what they feel works best for them? You act like these mass produced engines, are all built exactly the same with exactly the same tolerance, WRONG. Maybe all his years in fluid dynamic power have taught him some valuable lessons, and that's great, bring your knowledge and experience and teach us.

I will say this, jet engines we use on high performance aircraft, use only synthetic oils/lubes. So if we trust our jet engines with way higher temps than 230* to synthetics, why wouldn't I use synthetic in my truck engine? Why would I not use something with a little heavier weight to help protect the engine? I'm not dumping 20W-50 in, I'm using 5W-30, oil which is recommended for the 5.7, and what is filled in the 2500 5.7 at the factory, so why shake your head at us? What good do you get from it?

Because the difference between severe use and everyday driving is different. I'm speaking for the majority of the crowd. What UOA has been proven to be an outperformer for the 5-20 in everyday driving? I do realize every engine isn't the same, that's an assumption on your part. Why run a higher viscosity oil when it truly isn't needed? If you are towing very heavy all the time then the 5-30 can have its advantages. My last 2006 Hemi had 324,000 miles on it and I have only put 5-20 Castrol or Mobil 1 synthetics. Did I have an internal issue with the engine? No.... Not once. It never burned oil. I never got any wrist pin
Rattle or bearing knock. Nothing....but what the manufacturer recommends. I towed a 24' trailer with dozens of vehicles across my state and never had an issue. When did I mention that you should not run synthetics? I'm an aircraft technician and the oils used in these types of engines are not even remotely on the same platform as what we use in our vehicle engines. So that's not even a comparison per say. Use what you want, and I will use what I know is also proven.

 

[AFMoulton]

Because the difference between severe use and everyday driving is different. I'm speaking for the majority of the crowd. What UOA has been proven to be an outperformer for the 5-20 in everyday driving? In do realize every engine isn't the same, that's an assumption on your part. Why run a higher viscosity oil when it truly isn't needed? If you are towing very heavy all the time then the 5-30 can have its advantages. My last 2006 Hemi had 324,000 miles on it and I have only put 5-20 Castrol or Mobil 1 synthetics. Did I have an internal issue with the engine? No.... Not once. It never burned oil. I never got any wrist pin
Rattle or bearing knock. Nothing....but what the manufacturer recommends. I towed a 24' trailer with dozens of vehicles across my state and never had an issue. When did I mention that you should not run synthetics? I'm an aircraft technician and the oils used in these types of engines are not even remotely on the same platform as what we use in our vehicle engines. So that's not even a comparison per say. Use what you want, and I will use what I know is also proven.

Manufacturer reccomend 5W-20 Penzoil Yellow bottle, conventional.

 

[Kotta390]

Manufacturer reccomend 5W-20 Penzoil Yellow bottle, conventional.

I apologize for that. You are correct. I was merely mentioning the weight of oil not specifically brand wise.

 

[AFMoulton]

I apologize for that. You are correct. I was merely mentioning the weight of oil not specifically brand wise.

I agree our oils in our trucks are not near what we put into the Pratt or GE engines on the line, but my point was synthetics have much better protection, vs conventionals.

I tend to run my truck under more load than the majority of users here, 5 of 7 days it's pulling 80% of its max, so that's why I said 5W-30.

I agree with many of your points, I wouldn't run 0-40 in my 5.7, now if I had the 6.4, different story. I've always run a little heavier weight in my trucks and I've had zero problems. Other than my 03 Ram with 4.7 everything else has been GM, and they never called for anything less than 5-30. But you are correct 5-20 for everyday use in a GOOD synthetic will work great.

 

[rippin209]

Some of what you say I agree with, in my hands on not just reading forum's i have tried many oils and filters trying to solve a tap my truck has when cold, it completely goes away when hot, what ive learned is that i my tap is quieter and goes away faster on 5-20 than on 5-30 also i have better MPG,
acceleration and MDS function on the recommended 5-20 oil however it does preform very well on 5-30 . But there is a big difference in oil and it comes across easily in these hemis any GTL oil from Pennzoil in 5-20 will give you a very noisy motor on startup and running compared to hydrocracked oils in the same grade I prefer what Ive found to be the best oil and filter combo for my truck and that's Amsoil signature series 5-20 and the wix xp filter so I'm done testing for ever i hope. These last pages discussing filters was nothing but trying to pick the better of top tier brands for the hemi, filters are not all alike either ive ran all of the top brands and found some flow better and hemis like oil flow, some filters were just not built as good and like the royal purple i found it to be flow restrictive compared with the wix xp. How do i know? My truck had a faint lifter click on cold starts with the RP that went away when i switched and i had better oil pressure, same oil just a filter change that's real world results if only in my motor which after all is all i really care about, not trying to get folks to do what i do just spreading my findings to others as they do here too to determine if something they tried might work for me or vice versa. I don't agree with the guys here that run thick combos of mixed viscosity oils as i feel like you the 5.7 was designed to optimally preform on 5-20 oil and there is zero reasons to go heavier unless you tow heavy or are severe duty and then as the owners manual states 5-30 can be used. Most of them say they have no noise or ticks or taps so not sure what they are searching for by doing this but i find it interesting to hear about it anyway. I'm sure if or when they hit the syrup level that throws a oil code they will reconsider. Forums are just sounding boards read what you want believe what you want and do what you want, its all good.

I'm also having good results with amsoil, I use a Napa gold filter (also made by wix)

 

[misuracaf10]

Quick question guys, the RP is a 15k filter, I'm looking to change my oil soon, so do I remove the filter and drain it? Then toss it back in? Or do I just leave the filter on and remove after the second oci


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[BlueRT]

Personally I always change the filter. Why mix the dirty oil in the filter with the fresh clean oil you just poured in the engine?

 

[Kotta390]

I agree our oils in our trucks are not near what we put into the Pratt or GE engines on the line, but my point was synthetics have much better protection, vs conventionals.

I tend to run my truck under more load than the majority of users here, 5 of 7 days it's pulling 80% of its max, so that's why I said 5W-30.

I agree with many of your points, I wouldn't run 0-40 in my 5.7, now if I had the 6.4, different story. I've always run a little heavier weight in my trucks and I've had zero problems. Other than my 03 Ram with 4.7 everything else has been GM, and they never called for anything less than 5-30. But you are correct 5-20 for everyday use in a GOOD synthetic will work great.

I see why you would defend the point in using 5-30. I also deal with some Pratts and also Honeywells.

 

[raven3]

The state of CA has some guide lines on OCI because this state is quite concerned about the environmental impact of engine oil.
One of the guide lines says that driving at elevated ambient air temperatures is considered severe duty.
Have noticed the oil temperature increases with increase in ambient temperature, increase in ground speed, mountain upgrade driving with box payload or towing load.
Recently changed from 5w20 to 5w30 because central CA has quite high ambient temperatures during the summer months reaching well over 100F on a regular bases and do a fair amount of 6% upgrade driving. Have noticed no difference between the two oil grades, except the 5w30 runs slightly higher temperature than 5w20 on up hill climbing ~7F on one test.

Protection, in my opinion is all about running in the hydrodynamic boundary condition whether bearings, camshaft, timing chain, gear pump, piston rings, etc. Where there is basically no wear.
Once that hydrodynamic boundary layer is penetrated the parts are either in transition or basic boundary layer with no oil between the moving parts.
This condition is where the wear actually occurs.
The hydrodynamic boundary layer is lost based on load and oil viscosity.
The more viscous the oil the more difficult to break the hydrodynamic boundary layer at a given temperature.
If the engine is running 5w20 and the load does not exceed the oil film strength, no wear occurs.
If the load does exceed the oil film strength, the parts are now relying anti friction additives to reduce the wear rate.
In my opinion the increase in viscosity of 5w30 exceeds the operating temperature increase between 5w20 and 5w30.
So when the engine is subjected higher ambient temperature and bigger load the 5w30 will provide better protection against hydrodynamic boundary layer breakdown.
I know the 5w20 will get better mpg and the engine will run slightly cooler because of greater oil flow rate, but the film layer may break down under heavier load at elevated ambient temperatures. Why take a chance?
That is the reason the Ram 2500 with 5.7 recommends 5w30 because the truck is used by utility companies loaded down with lots of tools and equipment.