Synthetic Oil

Oil of Choice

  • Castrol Syntec/Edge

    Votes: 236 8.5%
  • Royal Purple

    Votes: 327 11.8%
  • AMSOil

    Votes: 400 14.4%
  • Valvoline Synpower

    Votes: 160 5.8%
  • Mobil 1

    Votes: 994 35.8%
  • Other

    Votes: 662 23.8%

  • Total voters
    2,779

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Burla

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I am changing my oil this weekend. This will be the third round with Red Line 5w-30 and a Royal Purple 20-820 filter. I will be doing my first oil analysis then as well. Should I get some of that Lubegard or am I good with just the Red Line?

Also, is this the Lubegard that you are referring to? If so, can this be added after the fact since I won't have it by the time I change the oil?

I wouldn't mix them, no reason to.
 

Hemi395

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m1 has changed a while back, now is fca cert. Zero issues running m1. Well "Recommended" for anyhow.
They have some interesting wording there, "recommended for the following applications" where the ms 6395 and Ford specs are.

The only "approved" one is Dexos, wonder if that's their way of getting around the 2 year testing for ms 6395.....
 

Burla

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Would you?? This thing just looks wrong man.. Maybe I am getting soft in my old age, but this is out of my comfort zone. I'm sure you lock it at the feet which makes those sizzors likely secure, but this is intimidating?

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And it costs like double a traditional lift does that you can securely lock.

NT11_Floorplate.jpg
 

Travis8352

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They have some interesting wording there, "recommended for the following applications" where the ms 6395 and Ford specs are.

The only "approved" one is Dexos, wonder if that's their way of getting around the 2 year testing for ms 6395.....
I thought i remembered reading that they did go thru the testing for ms6395? Maybe im wrong cant even remember where i saw that
 

Stefan N

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I just bought my first flat taped lifters for I don't know how long, will be filling it up with zink and some Dino's it feels

It's trip just started from Louisiana and are now on a short breake in Florida for some Aligator sightseeing maybe :eek: before getting on to a container for the trip over seas. First car bought just with pics, I have low expectations ;)

Have you some favorite oils for your oldies? I may just add zink in the 5w30 Motul oil I have on hand :oops:

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Burla

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I just bought my first flat taped lifters for I don't know how long, will be filling it up with zink and some Dino's it feels

It's trip just started from Louisiana and are now on a short breake in Florida for some Aligator sightseeing maybe :eek: before getting on to a container for the trip over seas. First car bought just with pics, I have low expectations ;)

Have you some favorite oils for your oldies? I may just add zink in the 5w30 Motul oil I have on hand :oops:

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Love it bro, back when Chevy's were cool. I love me some 60 and 70's Chevy's, can even stomach some 80's. That is where it ends for me though, lol. I wouldn't waste motul on that puppy, if it were me go thick and cheapest synthetic you can find over there. Does it have a Choke on the dash?
 

Burla

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I like 10w40, but you know we have a new world where 0w40's are manu's best effort oils. Kinda play with it, if you feel any hesitations go thinner and play with it. See what the engine responds to imo, 10w30, 0w40, 10w40. It is a beautiful truck imo, true truck **** those sweet rides. If the truck will live in the cold, pay attention to how the engine is acting, you can for sure change things by using different oils. I don't even know if they had 0w40 in 1965, they certainly didn't have these super class oils back then. If when you change the oil is smells like fuel, go thicker.

If you use a 0w40 look for dexos and/or the mercedes and posrche specs.
 

Stefan N

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I like 10w40, but you know we have a new world where 0w40's are manu's best effort oils. Kinda play with it, if you feel any hesitations go thinner and play with it. See what the engine responds to imo, 10w30, 0w40, 10w40. It is a beautiful truck imo, true truck **** those sweet rides. If the truck will live in the cold, pay attention to how the engine is acting, you can for sure change things by using different oils. I don't even know if they had 0w40 in 1965, they certainly didn't have these super class oils back then. If when you change the oil is smells like fuel, go thicker.
Thanks. This is going to be a summer daily driver I think, but I am 6.332 with alot of legs, so I may not fit in it as I hope. ( I sat in a friends 1970 c10 and that was ok)

And I have a 2012 "LS" 6.2L L92 in the garage. It has a broken valve seat that made a piston "explode" that I may rebuild and put in. Edelbrock E-force supercharger on it would be even better ;)

But this 350cui with a th350 will work for now, good thing with 50+ year cars here in Sweden is no car inspections or tax. So after I register it and do an inspection I will never do it again = free as you are over there with your builds (till the Police see me and understand what I did with it, then I am ****** and need to take it in for an inspection. So the 35o/350 will stay for insurance if that happens)

Thanks guy's!
 

Burla

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I like using zinc additive as well, good call. Another good reason to go with 40 weights, possibly more zinc depending on what you get.
 

Rod Knock

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I am changing my oil this weekend. This will be the third round with Red Line 5w-30 and a Royal Purple 20-820 filter. I will be doing my first oil analysis then as well. Should I get some of that Lubegard or am I good with just the Red Line?

Also, is this the Lubegard that you are referring to? If so, can this be added after the fact since I won't have it by the time I change the oil?

You don't need, and shouldn't, add Lubegard Bio Tech to Red Line Oil.
 

Rod Knock

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I like using zinc additive as well, good call. Another good reason to go with 40 weights, possibly more zinc depending on what you get.

More Zinc is not always better. Too much Zinc and Phosphorus can accelerate timing chain wear. Moly balances them. It's one of the reasons why Red Line Oil has so much Moly. Also, Trimer Moly doesn't balance them out as well as MoDDP. I believe that's what Red Line is using.
 

Rod Knock

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Actual picture of ms6395 certified oils.

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MS-6395 is not an actual certification or even approval. According to Chrysler (let's just call them Chrysler for simplicity's sake), motor oil manufacturers have to "self-certify" for MS-6395 and submit the paperwork to them.

The real why Mobil 1 5W-20, the company that invented 5W-20 fuel-saving synthetic oil in 1973 I might add does not carry a 5W-20 MS-6395 recommendation on the bottle is because ExxonMobil and SOPUS are business partners and decided to divide the OEM oil market amongst themselves. SOPUS serves Chrysler, Hyundai, and others for example. Mobil 1 serves GM, Porsche, and so on. Castrol serves Audi, VW, BMW (now the contract went to SOPUS). MS-6395 is not a real approval and not recognized by the oil industry at all. It's a charade meant to make the consumer purchase certain products, mainly manufactured by SOPUS. An so are MS-12633 (SRT - not as good as Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 or Castrol EDGE 0W-40) and MS-12991 (the latest EcoDiesel oil that is not as good as Delvac 1 or Rotella T6).
 
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