Synthetic Oil

Oil of Choice

  • Castrol Syntec/Edge

    Votes: 236 8.5%
  • Royal Purple

    Votes: 327 11.8%
  • AMSOil

    Votes: 400 14.4%
  • Valvoline Synpower

    Votes: 160 5.8%
  • Mobil 1

    Votes: 994 35.8%
  • Other

    Votes: 662 23.8%

  • Total voters
    2,779

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Gort

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Lubegard BioTech can't prevent lifter failure. It's a really good cleaner if you have a dirty engine, but that's about it. The reason for that is because Lubegard uses a Moly-Phosphorus compound, not Moly-Sulfur. So it doesn't work as part of the oil, but rather competes with the oil for the surface. Bonding additives to the base oil is complicated chemistry. So complicated in fact, that each manufacturer has their own proprietary technology for doing it. Castrol uses a PAO molecule IIRC to do it, and they have a patent on it.

Highly friction-modified oil like PUP SRT 0W-40 helps cut lifter wear. So does Castrol EDGE 0W-40 and EDGE 0W-40 C3/Dexos 2, but that's my own little experiment, so disregard it. RedLine Oil is better than PUP but if you choose to go that route then keep some PUP receipts for warranty purposes. Otherwise, PUP is good stuff.

I'm not at all opposed to spending the money on Red Line. I will readily admit that I'm not a chemist or oil expert. I guess I'm just a bit confused as to whether the PuP with Lubegard will protect as well as the Red Line and at what mileage I should start using the Lubegard. From what I've read previously, it sounds like RL and Lubegard is the way to go. I just don't want to buy oil that I'm not going to use (PuP receipts) nor flirt with warranty issues if something goes south. Not that I think the dealership that I use would actually demand oil receipts, but it's better to be safe than sorry these days.
 

Rod Knock

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Supposedly the engineers spec'd the VVT cams as billet cams,but the bean counters over ruled them. The soft cam idea,has been floating around for a few years.
That's been known for a while, and I believe we talked about it before. I posted an article about it, and you read it as well.

I'm not at all opposed to spending the money on Red Line. I will readily admit that I'm not a chemist or oil expert. I guess I'm just a bit confused as to whether the PuP with Lubegard will protect as well as the Red Line and at what mileage I should start using the Lubegard. From what I've read previously, it sounds like RL and Lubegard is the way to go. I just don't want to buy oil that I'm not going to use (PuP receipts) nor flirt with warranty issues if something goes south. Not that I think the dealership that I use would actually demand oil receipts, but it's better to be safe than sorry these days.
While Lubegard is not snake oil, its expertise lies with ATF additives. They even make their own ATF. BioTech uses the same antioxidant and detergent as RedLine, obviously in a different quantity. It's an Ester-based additive. PUP is not a motor oil that uses Esters for its additive package, primarily because it doesn't need to. GTL (Group III/III+) has very good additive solubility so it doesn't need to use Esters to compensate for the shortcomings of PAO for example. I'm not a chemist or formulator either, I just like lubricants and it fascinates me how they work.

My advice: keep it simple. Either use PUP on its own or use RedLine. PUP is a very good oil, and Shell spent a year just developing and testing it before releasing it for SRT engines. During that year SRT engines shipped with Rotella 5W-40 in the sump, which at the time was API SN rated. If you really want to do something for your engine, run it at a lower temperature if you constantly hit 220F. A 20F drop does wonders for its longevity.
 

Rod Knock

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@Gort - FYI, you can get Castrol EDGE Euro 0W-40 dirt cheap. I run it in my 2016 RAM 1500 5.7 HEMI. I got a bunch of it for $3/quart. Amazon has it for like $50 for a 3 pack of 5-quart jugs. The kicker is that Castrol actually officially recommends it for the 6.4 HEMI in the RAM 2500/3500 RAM. They even recommend it for 6.4 HEMIs in SRT8 Dodges. They don't recommend it for newer SRT vehicles due to Shell not allowing them to do so. It's some agreement they have, just like Shell has with ExxonMobil. But it's great oil:

Screen Shot 2021-08-02 at 10.59.52 PM.png
 

Travis8352

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@HEMIMANN , @Travis8352, @Hemi395, @Wild one, @Burla, @tidefan1967

Check this video out from Reignited on YouTube:


Got to 8:43.

Remember what I said right before I had my fallout with @Burla? That the HEMI doesn't have a lubrication problem, and that Chrysler installed sub-par cams in the HEMIs when they introduced VVT? This video was published about 5 hours ago. I watched the entire thing. This guy knows his stuff, and I believe him. Enjoy!
Thanks for the link. He has tons of good info
 

Burla

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@Gort Ram Forum members have had a strategy of following the science and developing strategies and taking part in community testing. Anybody can go over to oil forum and get the same info BITOGers bring here, as in dismiss what ram forum members have tested because they know better. The good news is hemi tick is a condition you hear, so when you use science and develop a strategy and it goes away, you know it worked. This is a good read, poll results of lubegard, 75% of ram forum members have killed their tick or have had it substantially better. Putting redline aside for a minute, there has been no testing or results that show any random group 3 oil in any weight that have better results then lubegard. So it is a shot in the dark to follow random advice when over a decade we have testing on an impressive scale. Over the last decade well over 200 trucks and people here who bought into it, many different strategies, these two have migrated to the top for one reason, results.

This long thread shows most of it, those polls show plenty of it. Sadly those BITOG trolls have created fake names which is also shown in the polls because the fools didn't realize the polls where public, so you can see for yourself, some of the "redline failed" votes were created by a donkey troll who thinks it is a joke and needs attention, while the rest of us took it seriously. BITOGers creating multiple accounts here and talking to themselves in the forum, the latest joke. I guess we should be flattered :)

This is the science of the issue, the cams have been testing this engineer tells you what the hemi needs. My truck ticked 3500 miles new, 5w20 redline killed the tick completely and it took 500 miles to go silent, which is the science of EP additives. Between redline and lubegard this result has been duplicated over 100 times. If it was about viscosity 5w20 redline wouldn't have killed my tick. Burla, hemi tick free for over a decade, the scientific reason is revealed in the paper below.


kmyvgod-jpg.jpg

imcvwvj-jpg.jpg
 

Burla

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PUP 0w40 all by itself has a decent chance at avoiding tick as well, you might just run that oil by itself. There is a scientific reason for this, that oil has over 4 to 5 times the moly as most oils, very clean base oil, and high detergency. It is the most used oil brand on the board. "If" you get tick then we discuss more aggressive strategies that have worked on other rams. Many rams never tick and run worry free for 100's of thousands of miles. However if you hit the tick lotto, you found the one place that has found some good strategies like Lubegard biotech that have proven to work. I'm not exactly sure why people don't accept results of the forum, those are random stats and the stats were recorded over time, which make them more credible despite what some BITOGer would say.
 

Gort

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Sorry, folks. I didn't mean to start an oil war.

I was just trying to find out whether or not it was safe to use Lubegard with PUP in my 6.4 as an effort to avoid developing lifter tick and whether I should wait until a certain mileage before adding it.

My choice to use PUP is based solely on heading off any potential warranty issues should something go south during the warranty period (well, that and I also have 21 quarts of it sitting in my garage). After the warranty expires, I'll be more than happy to use Red Line or whatever oil the hive-mind here thinks is the best for the 6.4.

As I said before, I'm not a chemist -- my questions here were an honest request for suggestions from people that are far more knowledgeable about motor oil and HEMIs than I am.

I do thank everyone for sharing their knowledge. It seems to me that I may have inadvertently stirred a pot that didn't need stirring -- please understand that this was *not* my intention.
 

Stefan N

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How you go green and back again, or just passing emissons with flying colors... ;)


The oils he uses in that thing is the cheapest available I'm guessing :rolleyes:
 

MontanaHandyman

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Question for Burla...
somewhere (I couldn't find it again), you posted about some type of teflon lube to preserve oil filter gaskets if they're gonna be in long term storage. Is there something special about that, or would any type of teflon lube accomplish the same....I've got cans of spray teflon lube and was wondering if that would work.
 

Travis8352

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I recognize the dude with the semi-electric-generator-thingie-on-his-electric-car-roof! That's Elrich Bachman!

View attachment 466481


I said I was done contributing. I would appreciate it if, at the very least, you would stop posting stuff like I'm @OilDoesntCureTick. That username is meant to raise eyebrows. Anyone can see that he is here to ruffle feathers. You know that. You're just trying to irritate me. You know that he and I are not the same forum members. You're just rude. Get a grip on yourself, man. I don't have a problem with you. Would you please stop with the nonsense? As far as this thread is concerned, it's all yours. You're the king of the hill. I respect that. Keep posting that essay as many times as you want. I don't care, but I feel bad for those who believe it, considering the source. Help crooks like BND take advantage of HEMI owners. The guy posted that essay on the Charger Forum to fish for more customers for his miracle "Quantum Blue" motor oil. I'm sure you didn't miss that part as many times as I posted it. I even posted the link where that essay originates. So, it's your choice. But you have to ask yourself, is this the best you can do, though? Is this how a grownup behaves? Prodding and picking at me? Is this how you deal with those who don't agree with all your ideas and way of thinking? You don't think that there is anything wrong with the way you behave?
I recognize the dude with the semi-electric-generator-thingie-on-his-electric-car-roof! That's Elrich Bachman!

View attachment 466481


I said I was done contributing. I would appreciate it if, at the very least, you would stop posting stuff like I'm @OilDoesntCureTick. That username is meant to raise eyebrows. Anyone can see that he is here to ruffle feathers. You know that. You're just trying to irritate me. You know that he and I are not the same forum members. You're just rude. Get a grip on yourself, man. I don't have a problem with you. Would you please stop with the nonsense? As far as this thread is concerned, it's all yours. You're the king of the hill. I respect that. Keep posting that essay as many times as you want. I don't care, but I feel bad for those who believe it, considering the source. Help crooks like BND take advantage of HEMI owners. The guy posted that essay on the Charger Forum to fish for more customers for his miracle "Quantum Blue" motor oil. I'm sure you didn't miss that part as many times as I posted it. I even posted the link where that essay originates. So, it's your choice. But you have to ask yourself, is this the best you can do, though? Is this how a grownup behaves? Prodding and picking at me? Is this how you deal with those who don't agree with all your ideas and way of thinking? You don't think that there is anything wrong with the way you behave?
I saw a uoa for quantum blue and it looks crappy based on a uoa. Just tons of phosphorus. He also markets a atf for the zf8 as well. Wonder whats in that
 

Rod Knock

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I saw a uoa for quantum blue and it looks crappy based on a uoa. Just tons of phosphorus. He also markets a atf for the zf8 as well. Wonder whats in that
It's probably Valvoline Maxlife, or ... even better, that universal ATF from Starfire, lol. With so many good oils, plus RedLine, why would anyone use that Quantum Blue stuff? If you look at the links I posted, a guy ran his stuff for 127K miles in his Charger SRT8 until one of the lifters seized. That's not very encouraging. The sad part is that he rebuilt his HEMI, and according to that thread, he's still running Quantum Blue, but 15W-50 this time around. It's probably Mobil 1 15W-50 from Walmart, lol. The guy has a SCAM going for him, and I hate scammers like that.
 

Burla

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Question for Burla...
somewhere (I couldn't find it again), you posted about some type of teflon lube to preserve oil filter gaskets if they're gonna be in long term storage. Is there something special about that, or would any type of teflon lube accomplish the same....I've got cans of spray teflon lube and was wondering if that would work.
Not teflon, here ya go. wear gloves, not that it is dangerous because it isn't, but the stuff don't come off. It is the stuff you use for a filter on a spa, on filter gasket it is like permanent chap stick. That rubber simply wont dry out ever. Did you buy a lot of filters or something?

yimg.com%2fimages%2fi%2f390236352055-0-1%2fs-l1000.jpg
 

Travis8352

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It's probably Valvoline Maxlife, or ... even better, that universal ATF from Starfire, lol. With so many good oils, plus RedLine, why would anyone use that Quantum Blue stuff? If you look at the links I posted, a guy ran his stuff for 127K miles in his Charger SRT8 until one of the lifters seized. That's not very encouraging. The sad part is that he rebuilt his HEMI, and according to that thread, he's still running Quantum Blue, but 15W-50 this time around. It's probably Mobil 1 15W-50 from Walmart, lol. The guy has a SCAM going for him, and I hate scammers like that.
Yes i read that thread. Whats sad is the engine builder built it with redline and he claims it ran smoother with quantum blue
 

Rod Knock

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Yes i read that thread. Whats sad is the engine builder built it with redline and he claims it ran smoother with quantum blue
RedLine has what, 400ppm Trimer Moly? Yes, it's Trimer Moly, contrary to whatever the "Gods" on BITOG will tell you. Also, on BITOG the mistaken notion that 200ppm Trimer is the max effective treatment rate is wrong. The moly count in Trimer has to do with the number of Mo-S bonds. That info is in the Infineum patent by the way (it expired). Anyway, it's highly friction modified and uses an Ester-based additive system. It's made like a classic ACEA A3/B4 motor oil, but with more of everything and higher quality ingredients. In fact, RedLine will add gobs of friction modifiers to just about anything, even their ATF. Also, I'm 200% sure that Moly is not the only one RedLine uses in their engine oil.

So, I read that BS claim as well. Whatever Mickey Mouse Milk is in those 15W-50 jugs, there is no way it can be better than Red Line. Maybe the BND guy paid him off to save face. After all, the guy grenanded his HEMI with the help of Blackstone Labs as well. They kept encouraging him to run longer OCIs, and he followed through. The evidence is in that teardown, the inside of that engine is pretty varnished.
 

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