Synthetic Oil

Oil of Choice

  • Castrol Syntec/Edge

    Votes: 236 8.5%
  • Royal Purple

    Votes: 327 11.8%
  • AMSOil

    Votes: 400 14.4%
  • Valvoline Synpower

    Votes: 160 5.8%
  • Mobil 1

    Votes: 994 35.8%
  • Other

    Votes: 662 23.8%

  • Total voters
    2,779

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Burla

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And this will bring a worn engine back to life........Used to use it a lot, with anecdotal proof from my eyes and gas pedal foot. Now, let the flaming begin...lol

View attachment 538673
Very interesting additive thanks for bringing to the forum, also has EP properties, pretty cool. Calcium Sulfonate has EP properties and we know most detergency in oil comes from calcium in some form. I am guessing the silver is collidal as in not powdered in suspension but probably silver ions, and I have no clue how that helps engines, so something new and mysterous here.

Machine lube on Calcium Sulfonate.

So now I am guessing that I am wrong, second thought maybe silver fills in gaps so not colloidal. "Restorer" so yeah that makes more sense. So this isnt your typical sludge remover type restore product, but a two prong and even three prong system. Filler, cleaner, and EP properties.

.
 

Burla

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By the way, everything I said was a total guess, dont hold me to it. One thing for sure, it would be a safe product/additive to use. Also, I never buy anything w/o an sds, it is the law those are supposed to be available, so no sds no purchase. Rislone has sds readily available, good job.
 

Burla

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Pretty cool, I didnt even look at this page and they say it is also an EP additive like machinelube said. Restore page, and my guess is this product does what it says. Seams solid at first look.

Mile after mile, friction gradually wears out every car's engine resulting in microscopic leaks between the piston rings and cylinder walls. In high-mileage engines these small leaks are the reason for loss of compression during the compression stroke and excessive blow-by during the combustion stroke.

By the time an engine reaches 100k miles most cylinders will have lost 10% to 25% of original compression. Each cylinder wears differently causing uneven compression levels across the cylinders with 20-60 PSI variations between cylinders in the same engine. Compression loss results in less horsepower generated by the engine, as well as increased oil consumption and sludge formation due to combustion blow-by.
 

G-Ride990

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Burla

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That stuff is magic. My truck idles much smoother and the injectors are much quieter after running a bottle through it.
Amsoil pi and redline si-1 deploy an upper cylinder lube as well as combustion chamber injector cleaner. So thanks to boroscopes we see the evidence of cleaning, and ucl is easy to prove as engines become less rattly. Just like other ucl's such as lucas that do the same thing, just not much cleaning, but engines do run smoother. My new theory to why the dramatic difference in cleaning is perhaps the carrier oil or upper cylinder lube also makes the detergent more effective. That has not been proven, but how in the world does 6 bottles of techron have just a little cleaning while far less redline really melts burned carbon? Yes there is a difference in PEA levels, but the UCL also makes them different. Most of chris fixes vids also showed no cleaning with many of these cleaners and PEA cleaners. So bottom line, that si-1 not only makes it sound better but actually cleans stuff well. Now, I subscribe to using it more sparingly then often, and before oil changes. This stuff does end up in the oil. I cant wait to boroscope my engine this summer, I have used quite a lot of si01, wanna see what my pistons look like.
 

Yardbird

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I have used RESTORE in many older cars. I bought a VW Rabbit, gas engine, with I don't know how many miles on it. There is a small hill in my town leading up past the post office. At 35 mph I would have to shift down to third to pull the hill. Plus, the engine would smoke.

I put RESTORE in and ran the engine a few hours, actually, I put a stick on the gas pedal and went to an auto auction while it ran.

When I came back, there was no smoke out the exhaust. I tried the same hill at the same speed. Instead of loosing speed and having to shift, I had to let off the gas at 45 MPH to keep from getting a ticket. It stopped using oil all together.

I've put it in dozens of vehicles. All ran better with more power, and a minimum 2 MPG increase.

I used to build racing go kart engines. The class we were in used 5 HP Briggs, all aluminum engines, no cylinder sleeve.

We ran very little oil in the engines so the oil splasher wouldn't be slowed down, advanced timing, no governor, and many times no air filter if we wanted a little intake air advantage. The engines ran on methanol.

I also ran a tight .006 clearance between the cylinder and piston. With practice laps, heat races, and main events, not counting caution laps, these engines took a beating. These were also dirt tracks we ran on, so dust ingestion was involved also.

I ran RESTORE in them, a very small amount. I could pull the head and see gray lines up and down the cylinder where it appeared scratches were. But, the cylinder was smooth as glass. The RESTORE had filled all the scores and scratches.

I also never had an engine failure, and we quit racing as winners. We beat out a guy two nights in a row that had a custom frame built, custom low resistance wheel bearings, a very expensive custom built engine, and throwing money at anything he thought would help him. He was the guy to beat. We worked hard, and beat him. I have built as many as three engines in one week to get one the way I wanted it.

We would win, get protested, and the engine torn down for inspection. Build it back the next day, and win that night again.

We had an old A-Bone cart with engines I built from used tiller blocks. I did engine and gearing, the kart owner did chassis setup, and his son drove.

That was a loooong time ago.
 

Burla

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What effect does running a can of Redline SI-1 have on a UOA? Anything noticable at all? Miniscule? Just curious.
Dunno for sure, if anything it is possible to see some contamination although in theory the filter should catch it, and there are reports PEA thickening oil. I do not know what level of PEA you need to thicken an oil, but imo best practice would be to take any downsides out of the question by changing the oil after you run a tank, which is like 350 miles or so. I have ran it and my viscosity did go up in my two year interval, but only a very little bit, as in like 12.3 to 12.4 or something like that. That run actually saw many bottles of si-1, I didnt think back then to keep track, but generally speaking it had to be at least 6 bottles as the interval was 2 years. I was using it more then I do now, mostly now the truck sits, so less of everything.

I did not think about the correlation gas additives and oil, but after that interval when my oil smelt like a big chemical did I understand gas additives will end up in the engine and sump.
 

quickster2

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I usually add Techron or the Redline SL-1 at each oil change. Will be running my small stash of Techron out soon. I have the Redline on a subscribe and save now on Amazon. After reading the latest I will be adding the fuel additive before the oil changes. Good info!
 

Wild one

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I have used RESTORE in many older cars. I bought a VW Rabbit, gas engine, with I don't know how many miles on it. There is a small hill in my town leading up past the post office. At 35 mph I would have to shift down to third to pull the hill. Plus, the engine would smoke.

I put RESTORE in and ran the engine a few hours, actually, I put a stick on the gas pedal and went to an auto auction while it ran.

When I came back, there was no smoke out the exhaust. I tried the same hill at the same speed. Instead of loosing speed and having to shift, I had to let off the gas at 45 MPH to keep from getting a ticket. It stopped using oil all together.

I've put it in dozens of vehicles. All ran better with more power, and a minimum 2 MPG increase.

I used to build racing go kart engines. The class we were in used 5 HP Briggs, all aluminum engines, no cylinder sleeve.

We ran very little oil in the engines so the oil splasher wouldn't be slowed down, advanced timing, no governor, and many times no air filter if we wanted a little intake air advantage. The engines ran on methanol.

I also ran a tight .006 clearance between the cylinder and piston. With practice laps, heat races, and main events, not counting caution laps, these engines took a beating. These were also dirt tracks we ran on, so dust ingestion was involved also.

I ran RESTORE in them, a very small amount. I could pull the head and see gray lines up and down the cylinder where it appeared scratches were. But, the cylinder was smooth as glass. The RESTORE had filled all the scores and scratches.

I also never had an engine failure, and we quit racing as winners. We beat out a guy two nights in a row that had a custom frame built, custom low resistance wheel bearings, a very expensive custom built engine, and throwing money at anything he thought would help him. He was the guy to beat. We worked hard, and beat him. I have built as many as three engines in one week to get one the way I wanted it.

We would win, get protested, and the engine torn down for inspection. Build it back the next day, and win that night again.

We had an old A-Bone cart with engines I built from used tiller blocks. I did engine and gearing, the kart owner did chassis setup, and his son drove.

That was a loooong time ago.
I've used Engine restore on a couple old high milege beaters,it does make a differance .I've never taken the engines apart after wards to see what all it does,as ussually by the time i run a couple bottles through the engine,there's nothing left of the car,and it goes off to the Kidney Foundation for the tax credit,and i go buy another cheap winter beater,lol.
 

crackerjack1957

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Found something for you Burla..........
 

Burla

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Found something for you Burla..........
seams like a solvent, kinda crazy process to be honest I do not understand how adding something to oil can do this...


I hope they dont recycle that pizza box...


.
 

Wild one

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Anybody remember the days of taking a vehicle out,running the hell out of it,to get it hot,then slowly pouring water down the carb while revving it at 2500 rpm,then giving it enough water after a minute of pouring it through the carb,to make it die,letting it sit for a few minutes so the water turned to steam,and loosened the carbon,then take it back out and beat the hell out of it again,to blow the residual carbon out the exhaust valve. That's what that video reminded me of,lol
 

HEMIMANN

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Anybody remember the days of taking a vehicle out,running the hell out of it,to get it hot,then slowly pouring water down the carb while revving it at 2500 rpm,then giving it enough water after a minute of pouring it through the carb,to make it die,letting it sit for a few minutes so the water turned to steam,and loosened the carbon,then take it back out and beat the hell out of it again,to blow the residual carbon out the exhaust valve. That's what that video reminded me of,lol

Man, you guys get bored up there.
 

Burla

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Anybody remember the days of taking a vehicle out,running the hell out of it,to get it hot,then slowly pouring water down the carb while revving it at 2500 rpm,then giving it enough water after a minute of pouring it through the carb,to make it die,letting it sit for a few minutes so the water turned to steam,and loosened the carbon,then take it back out and beat the hell out of it again,to blow the residual carbon out the exhaust valve. That's what that video reminded me of,lol
yeah water was the first additive and lots of people used it. TBH I think it went away with fuel injection, but still can work. I'm wondering how about a PEA cleaner you can pump through the throttle body, but I don't know anyone who makes a spray PEA cleaner, like a carb cleaner. Who knows maybe just spraying carb cleaner will work similar to sea foam, maybe better?
 

Wild one

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Ma Mopar sells a combustion chamber cleaner

 

JHoward

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Anybody remember the days of taking a vehicle out,running the hell out of it,to get it hot,then slowly pouring water down the carb while revving it at 2500 rpm,then giving it enough water after a minute of pouring it through the carb,to make it die,letting it sit for a few minutes so the water turned to steam,and loosened the carbon,then take it back out and beat the hell out of it again,to blow the residual carbon out the exhaust valve. That's what that video reminded me of,lol

Yep, been there and done that!
 

Wild one

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Gm has a couple combustion chamber cleaners to.




 
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