Synthetic Oil

[chrisbh17]

Could not help it.
The price increases of oil + all the different stuff I need to maintain….Amsoil and their PC discount saves me a boat load if I do big orders. Last order s spent like $500 in one order for both trucks, motorcycle, and a few other things to do lots of service on. But the PC discount made it $100+ less than original prices. And the yearly subscription is $16

Im thinking about trying Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30. Good HTHS, VII, NOACK, etc. Not quite RedLine good, but its less than half the price and readily available at AutoZone.

The Kirkland 5W-30 I have now sounds like poopie, even with BioTech in there.

 

[NETim]

I'm with you on the Amsoil. I thought about using their SS 0W-30 for winter and 5W-30 for summer but for now I'm still using 0W-40 year round and doing 5,000 mile OCI's. I had a bad experience with two RP filters so I am done with them and currently using the Fram Ultra XG2. Engine runs smooth and quiet. Even in Alaska I make a call to Amsoil to place my order and it is ready for pickup in about an hour. To each their own, of course, and there is certainly more than one good option for oil and filters out there. But this has worked well for me for many thousands of miles so why change.

What went wrong with the RP's? 20-820's?

 

[turkeybird56]

What went wrong with the RP's? 20-820's?

Been some alleged statements ref QC on RP. I got (2) 10-48's sitting on shelf, and a Mobil 1 Larger 212A (like the 20-500), and next one I am putting on will be the Mobil 1. I currently have a Fram Ultra on truck.

 

[BLUKTY2]

Can I as what your bad experience was … or 2 bad ones …?

What went wrong with the RP's? 20-820's?

I purchased two RP 20-500's in late 2021. The following year I did my spring oil change and first used one of the 20-500's. While oiling the gasket of the filter for installation, I noticed that the base of the filter was completely covered by a real fine metallic dust. There is no doubt that it was metallic- easy to see and feel. At any rate, I cleaned the base the best that I could and installed the filter.

All was fine for the first couple of thousand miles, but then on an extended road trip around Alaska, I noticed that the engine oil pressure was down by 8-12 psi throughout the rpm range and regardless of whether the engine was cold or at operating temperature. There is very little, if any, help with automotive issues on many roads around the state, so I had no real choice but to continue the trip. All along I suspected the filter, as this was the only variable in my last oil change. As soon as I got home I dumped the oil and filter and planned on using my second RP filter for the fill-up. But I noticed that it too had the same fine metallic dust covering the base. I couldn't help but wonder what sort of dust or particles might be on the inside of the filter that I couldn't see. This, plus the fact that I didn't want to again experience what I expected to be some sort of a failure with the first filter, I decided to just take the loss and tossed it in the trash.

I completed the oil/filter change using a Fram XG2 and the oil pressure returned to normal and I haven't experienced a drop of oil pressure since. I have no doubt that something in the first 20-500 failed but I really don't know what (relief valve??). I am well aware that the RP filters are highly regarded among the fine folks on this forum, but I will not take a chance with them again as long as there are other viable options. It was probably just a lapse in quality control and just my luck to get not one, but two filters that slipped through the cracks.

Just my experience and of course, YMMV!

 

[knightjp]

Im thinking about trying Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30. Good HTHS, VII, NOACK, etc. Not quite RedLine good, but its less than half the price and readily available at AutoZone.

The Kirkland 5W-30 I have now sounds like poopie, even with BioTech in there.

I would recommend Mobil1 FS 0w40. My engine is sounding really great with it. Actually even better than the time I used Motul 300V 5w30.

 

[CanuckRam1313]

Bacon grease... THAT's THE lubricant for highest level of confidence! And, an added bonus is the waft of Mother's home cooking as you drive! What could go wrong!?

Everything is better with bacon! (;

 

[knightjp]

Everything is better with bacon! (;

Bacon - the only known cure for vegetarianism.

 

[U&A]

I purchased two RP 20-500's in late 2021. The following year I did my spring oil change and first used one of the 20-500's. While oiling the gasket of the filter for installation, I noticed that the base of the filter was completely covered by a real fine metallic dust. There is no doubt that it was metallic- easy to see and feel. At any rate, I cleaned the base the best that I could and installed the filter.

All was fine for the first couple of thousand miles, but then on an extended road trip around Alaska, I noticed that the engine oil pressure was down by 8-12 psi throughout the rpm range and regardless of whether the engine was cold or at operating temperature. There is very little, if any, help with automotive issues on many roads around the state, so I had no real choice but to continue the trip. All along I suspected the filter, as this was the only variable in my last oil change. As soon as I got home I dumped the oil and filter and planned on using my second RP filter for the fill-up. But I noticed that it too had the same fine metallic dust covering the base. I couldn't help but wonder what sort of dust or particles might be on the inside of the filter that I couldn't see. This, plus the fact that I didn't want to again experience what I expected to be some sort of a failure with the first filter, I decided to just take the loss and tossed it in the trash.

I completed the oil/filter change using a Fram XG2 and the oil pressure returned to normal and I haven't experienced a drop of oil pressure since. I have no doubt that something in the first 20-500 failed but I really don't know what (relief valve??). I am well aware that the RP filters are highly regarded among the fine folks on this forum, but I will not take a chance with them again as long as there are other viable options. It was probably just a lapse in quality control and just my luck to get not one, but two filters that slipped through the cracks.

Just my experience and of course, YMMV!

Thats a shame. Sorry you had to deal with that.

Unfortunately, No matter the manufacture we need to be visually checking the filter as best we can. Cant trust any of them to be honest. The company that makes RP filters also makes a handful of other filters for other brand names. That is how it works with all of them really. Its all contract work. Who wins the bid to make the product and get the approval by the penny pinchers. Most cases today….this is the case.

Your Fram XG2 is a great Filter. Good luck and thanks for sharing

 

[chrisbh17]

I would recommend Mobil1 FS 0w40. My engine is sounding really great with it. Actually even better than the time I used Motul 300V 5w30.

My only worry is that its a bit "heavy", even heavier than RedLine 5W-30, though Im not sure how much it shears down to something ligther.

 

[U&A]

My only worry is that its a bit "heavy", even heavier than RedLine 5W-30, though Im not sure how much it shears down to something ligther.

Usually all 0W40’s shear down to a heavy 30w after a good 1000 miles or less

 

[U&A]

Usually all 0W40’s shear down to a heavy 30w after a good 1000 miles or less

Quoting my own post

My favorite oil for my 6.4 is actually Redline 5W30. All year round

 

[Burla]

Quoting my own post

My favorite oil for my 6.4 is actually Redline 5W30. All year round

interesting uoa, this guy went from thin oil with high moly to thick oil with 1/3 the moly and the iron level tore the roof off. ow40 fs did shear to 5w30 and the wear was horrible. Now, FE was raising everytime which would concern me, and it is only one single uoa so hard to draw any conclusion, but for whatever reason this hemi did not like the m1 fs 0w40. I still have confidence in this oil, but if I seen a couple more of these I'd say look elsewhere, like the 0w40 amsoil ss.

And amulinum shot up which you can expect with a 0w40, simple thick oil leaves those cold pistons exposed at start up even 0w40, but the iron is a wow thing. Could just be an engine failing moment dunno.

 

[CanuckRam1313]

I ran 20W50 synthetic in my 2006 SRT8 300C.

She was my summer only vehicle (stored winters) and this year engine had the common 6.1 oil squirter whine when at full operating temps. Sounded like a mini supercharger at times...lol

After I switched to this viscosity oil there was not a peep out of her, even after repeated 1/4 mile runs at the track in the summer heat.

Although, I had to ensure I was at full operating temps before I drove her spiritedly as that was some thick A Z Z oil!!!!!!!!

 

[06 Dodge]

My fav seasoning is Apple wood smoked flake sea salt & black pepper, let it set 20-25 minutes then the meat goes on a hot BBQ (charcoal briquette not a gas grill or pellet) along with a good amount of the Kingsford blend wood chips ( apple hickory oak) mmmmmm, but if I want to change it up will use Montreal seasoning or add a mix of Johnny's & Lowery seasoning....

 

[U&A]

interesting uoa, this guy went from thin oil with high moly to thick oil with 1/3 the moly and the iron level tore the roof off. ow40 fs did shear to 5w30 and the wear was horrible. Now, FE was raising everytime which would concern me, and it is only one single uoa so hard to draw any conclusion, but for whatever reason this hemi did not like the m1 fs 0w40. I still have confidence in this oil, but if I seen a couple more of these I'd say look elsewhere, like the 0w40 amsoil ss.

And amulinum shot up which you can expect with a 0w40, simple thick oil leaves those cold pistons exposed at start up even 0w40, but the iron is a wow thing. Could just be an engine failing moment dunno.

Personally

I would not want to run 0W 40 mobile in a hemi unless I have a really happy hemi that produces low wear numbers. M1 uses primarily GTL base stock and im not fond of them in terms of shear strength.

JMO

No, I have been out of the game with this synthetic oil stuff for a couple years now so things may have changed

 

[Burla]

Personally

I would not want to run 0W 40 mobile in a hemi unless I have a really happy hemi that produces low wear numbers. M1 uses primarily GTL base stock and im not fond of them in terms of shear strength.

JMO

No, I have been out of the game with this synthetic oil stuff for a couple years now so things may have changed

yeah it changed a bit, in the msds it shows that m1 to have a high percent of pao, that is why you see uoa's with pup 0w40 go from 13.7 to tens in 4k miles but this one will hold viscosity better, as the pao portion is more stable. If you look at this msds it shows 30-40% decene which is the pao they use. However, that uoa is what it is, very troubling and we need some more examples of it in a hemi before we king it a top oil imo.

 

[Wild one]

I ran 20W50 synthetic in my 2006 SRT8 300C.

She was my summer only vehicle (stored winters) and this year engine had the common 6.1 oil squirter whine when at full operating temps. Sounded like a mini supercharger at times...lol

After I switched to this viscosity oil there was not a peep out of her, even after repeated 1/4 mile runs at the track in the summer heat.

Although, I had to ensure I was at full operating temps before I drove her spiritedly as that was some thick A Z Z oil!!!!!!!!

What track,and what did it run for you.

 

[hemihustlin]

I ran 20W50 synthetic in my 2006 SRT8 300C.

She was my summer only vehicle (stored winters) and this year engine had the common 6.1 oil squirter whine when at full operating temps. Sounded like a mini supercharger at times...lol

After I switched to this viscosity oil there was not a peep out of her, even after repeated 1/4 mile runs at the track in the summer heat.

Although, I had to ensure I was at full operating temps before I drove her spiritedly as that was some thick A Z Z oil!!!!!!!!

damn I love those year 300 srt8s! a guy had one where i worked at when i was getting started in mechanics and he loved to let me hear it (he had opened up exhaust and a superchips or diablo predator can tune)
I think thats where my love for dodges started haha. not long after he sold me his old 93 Dakota 318 and i beat that up for a few years before getting my 06 ram hemi

all that to say if i won the lottery i would definitely go find an 06 300 srt8 and daily it in the summer
get one of those nice mesh grills instead of those bars

 

[HEMIMANN]

That does seem odd. PAO decene shouldn't shear either.....Group IV molecular saturation is the top there is, per my recollection.
Only an ester can give you better protection in high temp, but not particularly suited to shear loads - more for rolling loads as in hydrodynamic machine elements like roller bearings and bushings. Not good on cylinder walls.

 

[Burla]

Bedliner for house roofs, they are so confident they are even using this on a flat roof. Just for practical reasons i have no idea why all roofs arent white. I just sprayed my wifes rav 4 white on the roof, it is cold to the touch on a 80f day and the hood is almost too hot to leave your hand on, while parked. so beneficial but here you cant find white roofing. I like this idea so much when it comes time to get a new roof I will be calling rhino and seeing if it is available. 14 years in my bedliner is like new, I bet a white bedliner roof would last a lifetime plus...