Synthetic Oil

[Travis8352]

Was he the doc running crazy thin oil experiments in his porsche a few months ago?

Yes and a ferrari i believe. Like 0w5 redline racing oil

 

[HEMIMANN]

I asked about using 0w20 oil, I was told if I used it and their was any engine problems while I using the wrong oil weight it would be used against me, as in most likely void the engine warranty, this came from local Toyota Service manages mouth, he even said he had never heard of UOA's in his life and asked me where I learned about doing them ( told him the trucking industry) and how reliable the UOA report from Cummins were

And yet their competitor Mazda insists on 5W-30 on their turbo engine; 5W-20 and 0W-20 not allowed.

 

[goatdriver1957]

It just doesn't make a rats difference, it all spec'ed
the same.
The commerce availability, cleaning additives, color and name is most likely what makes the diff's in fly-over country prices. The 'slick' is the same per spec.

 

[U&A]

I knew this was coming from you, my bad, again, sigh

How about this, I think yaw'll should go to thinner oil as your engine ages or we will die in 12 years.

I say you all use thinner oil and goahead and die. So If I use 40W do I get to live?

Or did i get this wrong

 

[U&A]

God i love this thread

 

[HEMIMANN]

We've jumped the shark and gone insane.

Gotta hand it to Mike for posting a 0W-0 oil.
I've seen the promised land!

 

[BLUKTY2]

God i love this thread

You beat me to this comment! D....t!! I guess i'm just getting slow in my old age.

 

[BLUKTY2]

I asked about using 0w20 oil, I was told if I used it and their was any engine problems while I using the wrong oil weight it would be used against me, as in most likely void the engine warranty, this came from local Toyota Service manages mouth, he even said he had never heard of UOA's in his life and asked me where I learned about doing them ( told him the trucking industry) and how reliable the UOA report from Cummins were

I completely understand your point; I am in the same situation until my warrantee expires. As for your particular Service Manager, remember that incompetence is rampant these days. Good help, or any help at all, is hard to find. Therefore we are on our own to make decisions that are best for each of us because we can't rely on the "pro's". Knowledge is power.

For now I will "toe the line", be a good sheep and use 0W-20 to help save the planet. With so few miles on my engine I am not worried about it. It's the long term lubrication strategy that I am trying to come up with.

But here is a hypothetical thought and consideration. If, while under warranty, someone decides to deviate from the NA OM's "recommended" oil weight of 0W-20 and uses a different oil weight, say 5W-30. By a stroke of bad luck this person has a catastrophic engine failure and the vehicle ends up being towed to the nearest dealer. Does the dealer evaluate the oil? Do they send a sample off for a UOA? Do any of the NA dealers Service Managers even know what a UOA is or are they all just as ignorant as yours?

Let's carry this hypothetical situation out even farther. Suppose the dealer does discover that the engine oil was not 0W-20 but 5W-30 and tries to deny warranty coverage. How can they do this when factory approved oils for the same engine in a different country include 5W-30? While I am not a lawyer I just don't see, if this ended up in court, that a warrantee claim could be denied. Somebody please correct me if I am wrong.

 

[MontanaHandyman]

Still......waiting for 0W-0

...and after that, we go into the minus ratings??

 

[ramffml]

I completely understand your point; I am in the same situation until my warrantee expires. As for your particular Service Manager, remember that incompetence is rampant these days. Good help, or any help at all, is hard to find. Therefore we are on our own to make decisions that are best for each of us because we can't rely on the "pro's". Knowledge is power.

For now I will "toe the line", be a good sheep and use 0W-20 to help save the planet. With so few miles on my engine I am not worried about it. It's the long term lubrication strategy that I am trying to come up with.

But here is a hypothetical thought and consideration. If, while under warranty, someone decides to deviate from the NA OM's "recommended" oil weight of 0W-20 and uses a different oil weight, say 5W-30. By a stroke of bad luck this person has a catastrophic engine failure and the vehicle ends up being towed to the nearest dealer. Does the dealer evaluate the oil? Do they send a sample off for a UOA? Do any of the NA dealers Service Managers even know what a UOA is or are they all just as ignorant as yours?

Let's carry this hypothetical situation out even farther. Suppose the dealer does discover that the engine oil was not 0W-20 but 5W-30 and tries to deny warranty coverage. How can they do this when factory approved oils for the same engine in a different country include 5W-30? While I am not a lawyer I just don't see, if this ended up in court, that a warrantee claim could be denied. Somebody please correct me if I am wrong.

Viscosity weights are a range, not a single value. Which means you can have a 5w-20 which is almost as thick as a very thin 5w-30. And you can also have a 5w-30 that degrades over time to end up as a 20 weight, and you can have a 5w-20 in an engine that thickens into a 30 weight. In other words things aren't so simple.

I'm not saying to ignore the warranty, but my concern has always been about the time after the warranty has expired. More than likely, your engine will not need the warranty, so my approach is to make sure I still have an engine in pristine condition once the warranty is over. That means running a very high quality oil and generally I choose a thick oil like a 5w-30, I've even run 0w-40. I have about 7000 Kms left on my warranty, so it looks like my bet is paying off.

 

[knightjp]

Viscosity weights are a range, not a single value. Which means you can have a 5w-20 which is almost as thick as a very thin 5w-30. And you can also have a 5w-30 that degrades over time to end up as a 20 weight, and you can have a 5w-20 in an engine that thickens into a 30 weight. In other words things aren't so simple.

I'm not saying to ignore the warranty, but my concern has always been about the time after the warranty has expired. More than likely, your engine will not need the warranty, so my approach is to make sure I still have an engine in pristine condition once the warranty is over. That means running a very high quality oil and generally I choose a thick oil like a 5w-30, I've even run 0w-40. I have about 7000 Kms left on my warranty, so it looks like my bet is paying off.

Warranty is one thing. Ignorance is another. Let's be honest. Most people don't do any kind of research into the vehicle they are buying. They assume that the dealer and the manufacturer knows best. That was my mistake..

IronHide – The Manufacturer is Not Always Right.

First, please watch this video below. I do apologize for the terrible portrait style of recording. I did it in a rush to show it to my mechanic. Now what do you think that noise was.. It was loud w…

julxrp.wordpress.com

Even if you did to the research, you are still at the mercy of the dealer in order to preserve the warranty. Over here in Dubai, if you service a vehicle outside of the main dealership, they will void the warranty or rather they have grounds to. Most people don't look at the fine print when they are buying a vehicle.
For us here, you're at the dealership's mercy at least for the 1st 3 years of ownership. You have to give the vehicle to them on time for service and you're not even allowed to dictate what kind of oil they should use on your engine. They know best. By the time the warranty period is over, I would say for most Hemis, the lifters have been compromised in some way. Usually the dealer would use 5w30, but they will use 5w20 as well.
I have not queried the dealership about supplying your own oil when you take it in for a service. If they do allow that, then that would be the only way to save your engine and have it last well beyond the warranty period.
In any case, most warranties run out at 100,000kms and that is when we start to see lifter issues. My original grey truck had the lifters runout at 130,000kms.

 

[mdc1990zr1]

Warranty is one thing. Ignorance is another. Let's be honest. Most people don't do any kind of research into the vehicle they are buying. They assume that the dealer and the manufacturer knows best. That was my mistake..

IronHide – The Manufacturer is Not Always Right.

First, please watch this video below. I do apologize for the terrible portrait style of recording. I did it in a rush to show it to my mechanic. Now what do you think that noise was.. It was loud w…

julxrp.wordpress.com

Even if you did to the research, you are still at the mercy of the dealer in order to preserve the warranty. Over here in Dubai, if you service a vehicle outside of the main dealership, they will void the warranty or rather they have grounds to. Most people don't look at the fine print when they are buying a vehicle.
For us here, you're at the dealership's mercy at least for the 1st 3 years of ownership. You have to give the vehicle to them on time for service and you're not even allowed to dictate what kind of oil they should use on your engine. They know best. By the time the warranty period is over, I would say for most Hemis, the lifters have been compromised in some way. Usually the dealer would use 5w30, but they will use 5w20 as well.
I have not queried the dealership about supplying your own oil when you take it in for a service. If they do allow that, then that would be the only way to save your engine and have it last well beyond the warranty period.
In any case, most warranties run out at 100,000kms and that is when we start to see lifter issues. My original grey truck had the lifters runout at 130,000kms.

If you're that concerned about what the dealership puts in, let them do the oil change to preserve your warranty. When you get the truck back, just drain their oil and put what you want in. Leave their oil filter in place. Problem solved!!!

 

[HEMIMANN]

...and after that, we go into the minus ratings??

Anti-matter oil! Gotta love it.

 

[tjfdesmo]

Anti-matter oil! Gotta love it.

Aye!

 

[Burla]

...and after that, we go into the minus ratings??

wtf! dont give them any ideas man!

 

[HEMIMANN]

Full Disclosure -

I ended up a member here not so much due to the invitation of a member, but because of my own Hemi tick journey. Bet you didn't know that.

Many of you know I worked at Mobil Oil back in the day as a Commercial Lubrication Engineer. Knowing their science, I used mostly all Mobil synthetic lubricants for many years. Until the dreaded Hemi tick.

Drove Chevy trucks for years until the disastrous 5.3L AFM oil-pumper drove me to Ram Hemi. My 2012 Ram new 1500 with 5.7 Hemi developed the tick ~ 70,000 miles. Clearly audible, not 'normal' to an engineer. Joined BITOG and read all about it. Switched from M1 to PUP and tick went away. Just like that. Changed all engines from M1 to PUP, all engines stopped consuming oil as well.

That was on regular M1 that Exxon had cheapened after their takeover, along with the Castrol lawsuit. Since then, lots of things have changed, some for worse, some for better.

My view is that things were fairly stable with engine oils until mass market proliferation of small GDI turbo engines (in response to EPA corporate CAFE reduction regulations) created LSPI with existing oil formulations, forcing API to come up with new quality categories SN+ and SP in response. The thing is, not only did they change oil formulas to reduce LSPI, they reduced in-grade SAE viscosities for miniscule fuel economy gains at the expense of increased engine wear. Not sure if this was part of SP, or what.

This has led us to where we are today in our search for the SP or non-SP race oils to meet our engine life goals. Most of us expect at least 100,000 miles from our gas engines without failure, some up to 200,000 miles. Most of us can't afford to get a new truck every 3-4 years like our parents did....they are too sophisticated and expensive compared to 50 years ago.

Anyway, I've appreciated this forum with helping to navigate this increasingly complicated vehicle environment, especially now I've retired.

 

[Burla]

Question, fastest gas production truck ever made? The Shelby super snake sport, almost a full second faster then number two the ram trx 0-60. The fastest production truck made? The tesla supposedly available this year. If we dont call shelby a production car and dont include battery vehicles, we can say ram is killing it, but the shelby is kinda cool? If you pull up to one of these with the shelby on the door, dont do it, just dont.

photo gallery

 

[HEMIMANN]

What's the most reliable and durable production truck?

One that doesn't hatch engines or leave you stranded. That's what I'm interested in. I don't give a rip if they win a track race once somewhere. That was the fallacy of a Hemi in a truck.

Don't get me started on an unreliable DeLorean truck from Mr. SPACEX

 

[Wild one]

What's the most reliable and durable production truck?

One that doesn't hatch engines or leave you stranded. That's what I'm interested in. I don't give a rip if they win a track race once somewhere. That was the fallacy of a Hemi in a truck.

Don't get me started on an unreliable DeLorean truck from Mr. SPACEX

If i was gonna bet money,i'd lean towards the earlier pre-smog Gen 3 2500's with a Cummins .
I've seen them with 500,000+ miles and the driveline has never been touched,nothing left of the body,but they're still running fine,lol

 

[knightjp]

Question, fastest gas production truck ever made? The Shelby super snake sport, almost a full second faster then number two the ram trx 0-60. The fastest production truck made? The tesla supposedly available this year. If we dont call shelby a production car and dont include battery vehicles, we can say ram is killing it, but the shelby is kinda cool? If you pull up to one of these with the shelby on the door, dont do it, just dont.

photo gallery

Well, the Shelby is just a street rod. TRX was designed to go after Raptors.

As for the most reliable and durable truck? Depends... 1/2 ton or HD..
1/2 ton, consumer reports state its the 2nd Gen Tundra.
HD, Ram 2500 with a Cummins engine.