Tailgate opening issue

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bkw25

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currently have 2022 3500 Limited longhorn, issue is when pushing the button on the tailgate itself to release it, nothing happens no click nothing. but when i use the fob or switch on the dash to open it, it opens as required. any ideas would be great thank.
 

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currently have 2022 3500 Limited longhorn, issue is when pushing the button on the tailgate itself to release it, nothing happens no click nothing. but when i use the fob or switch on the dash to open it, it opens as required. any ideas would be great thank.

Are you the original owner, and is this a new or recent feature?
Have you tried pushing on the tailgate as you press the release button?


And, welcome to Ram Forum. :cool:

.
 

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I'm going to take a guess that there is an issue with the button on the tailgate since the latch release works from the remote.
You could probably pull the access panel off to see if the switch is connected, possibly try replacing it if it test bad. It could still be a wiring or BCM issue as that what initiates releasing the tailgate.
 
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bkw25

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Are you the original owner, and is this a new or recent feature?
Have you tried pushing on the tailgate as you press the release button?


And, welcome to Ram Forum. :cool:

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yes original owner. and it works when the fob is pressed and the switch in the cab.
 
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bkw25

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I'm going to take a guess that there is an issue with the button on the tailgate since the latch release works from the remote.
You could probably pull the access panel off to see if the switch is connected, possibly try replacing it if it test bad. It could still be a wiring or BCM issue as that what initiates releasing the tailgate.
the switch when testing continuity comes up as none when you push the button, but roughly 4 ohms when pressing the button. there is power at the plug going into the switch.
 

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If you short the switch terminals together, bypassing the switch, do you hear the tailgate solenoids' release mechanisms move?

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bkw25

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If you short the switch terminals together, bypassing the switch, do you hear the tailgate solenoids' release mechanisms move?

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i will try that tomorrow and advise the outcome. thx
 

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4 ohm sounds quite high at the switch, I think you have dirt in it,
Mine is still manual, so I have never seen this switch,
contact cleaner sprayed in may help.
I would think that it should be a sealed switch as in the country roads, that is where all the dust and muck ends up, on the tail gate.

BTW Hi from S.W. Saskatchewan, Ca.
 

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4 ohm sounds quite high at the switch, I think you have dirt in it,
Mine is still manual, so I have never seen this switch,
contact cleaner sprayed in may help.
I would think that it should be a sealed switch as in the country roads, that is where all the dust and muck ends up, on the tail gate.

BTW Hi from S.W. Saskatchewan, Ca.

The real question is; what is the measurement with the test leads shorted together.

Chances are, 4 ohms is the nominal resistance of the meter leads.

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crash68

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The real question is; what is the measurement with the test leads shorted together.

Chances are, 4 ohms is the nominal resistance of the meter leads
What kind of meter/test leads do you uses? I don't think I've ever had a set register more than a tenth or two ohms and I've gone through a few sets of test leads over the years.
If I really need to take a precision reading my meter has a Relative mode that will compensate for the meter lead resistance.
 

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What kind of meter/test leads do you uses? I don't think I've ever had a set register more than a tenth or two ohms and I've gone through a few sets of test leads over the years.
If I really need to take a precision reading my meter has a Relative mode that will compensate for the meter lead resistance.

Yes, that was crazy of me. Agreed, more like .1 to .2 at the most.

Brain fart.

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bkw25

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What kind of meter/test leads do you uses? I don't think I've ever had a set register more than a tenth or two ohms and I've gone through a few sets of test leads over the years.
If I really need to take a precision reading my meter has a Relative mode that will compensate for the meter lead resistance.
fluke 117 meter
 
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bkw25

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What kind of meter/test leads do you uses? I don't think I've ever had a set register more than a tenth or two ohms and I've gone through a few sets of test leads over the years.
If I really need to take a precision reading my meter has a Relative mode that will compensate for the meter lead resistance.
when the leads are touched together get 0.2 but when on the switch 4.03 when activated. 12.4 volts at the connector and ground is good.
 

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when the leads are touched together get 0.2 but when on the switch 4.03 when activated. 12.4 volts at the connector and ground is good.
There is probably a way to see if the signal from the tailgate button is getting back to the BCM using AlfaOBD.
Does the tailgate release from the button in the cab?
 

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The FOB and the in cab tailgate release both release the tailgate, so circuits, BCM etc are obviously fine. The button is pooched. Replace it, I don't think they are re-buildable because the one I saw was sealed, tailgate will work fine. If you still have warranty this is covered.
 
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bkw25

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The FOB and the in cab tailgate release both release the tailgate, so circuits, BCM etc are obviously fine. The button is pooched. Replace it, I don't think they are re-buildable because the one I saw was sealed, tailgate will work fine. If you still have warranty this is covered.
tried a new latch as well same results. guess its off to the dealership
 

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new unit comes with new button/switch
Last thing to check, follow the wiring from the button to the connector on the bed and see if there is a break in one of the 5 wires as the power is getting to the button but doesnt seem to be sending the signal home to the BCM. Any break should be between the connector and button or the in cab release would not work.
 
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Yes, that was crazy of me. Agreed, more like .1 to .2 at the most.

Brain fart.

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I find old age gas may have something to do with it? :laughing1:
It's not a problem as my smeller is also buggered.

A test light would work to check for power at the switch, but the power must be OK as the latch works with the remote, and I presume when the doors are unlocked.

I just read some more replies after the fact, normal for me, see first line.
new switch don't work, i would think bad plug, or socket pins.

if you still had it at home, I would wiggle the plug and wire while pushing the button, if you never tried that, if you can get at the thing.
you can have 12v, but not enough current flow to pull the latch, I presume its a solenoid,
I presume it would be hard to check current with out chopping wire up.
or messing with jumper wires and probes.
 
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