TERRIBLE experience with Ram

[quietpeen]

You guys are tough, the guy is upset that he has a brick in his driveway he has to make payments on. Yes its out of warranty so buyer beware. This bashing reminds me of the F150 forums where NOBODY can talk trash about the almighty F150....

OP, when you say the connector is corroded, how corroded is it, 1 pin or the whole thing?
What corroded it, did battery acid leak onto it or did it overheat from a possible short circuit? As mentioned above, a local shop may be able to fix this much cheaper.

I don't think anybody has really bashed him - which I thank everybody for btw. There has been some tough love because while everybody can understand the O.P.'s frustration he is placing a lot of blame on FCA for not going far above and beyond their normal procedures for him personally.

 

[yillbs]

You guys are tough, the guy is upset that he has a brick in his driveway he has to make payments on. Yes its out of warranty so buyer beware. This bashing reminds me of the F150 forums where NOBODY can talk trash about the almighty F150....

OP, when you say the connector is corroded, how corroded is it, 1 pin or the whole thing?
What corroded it, did battery acid leak onto it or did it overheat from a possible short circuit? As mentioned above, a local shop may be able to fix this much cheaper.

I wouldn't really call it bashing. You have to keep in mind that these forums are indexed by google and other search engines for key words. some of the keywords he used may bring people here in the future researching similar issues. It's imperative that people understand what warranty is and warranty isn't. Everyone feels for the guy because everyone here is human ( mostly ). That doesn't negate the fact FCA really has nothing to do with what's happening here. Obviously RAMS don't just do this every time they leave warranty, this forum is tribute to that.

the issue itself has been beaten really in this case. Corroded wire / sensor.

1. fix the corrosion
2. find a reputable non dealer shop / or another dealer
3. Replace the sensor himself.

The general question " Do I need a wiring harness " has also been answered. The answer is , probably not. Start with the sensor. The other issue, which wasn't really asked is " Would this corroded wire cause these issues i'm experiencing. the answer to that, is yes. "

 

[indept]

Ok, it just sounded harsh at 1st look.

OP, another thought: is it possible this was a "flood" vehicle? You might want to look up under the dash for signs of water marks. These connectors are supposed to be water tight, at least as far as being splashed.

 

[dexter]

By

did you mean "bye"?

 

[RHeller]

I dont care what manufacturer the truck is, if its out of warranty, good luck getting any of them to fix it. Its unrealistic to believe nothing will ever break on a truck. To blame a manufacturer for a truck breaking while no longer under warranty is just wrong. Blame yourself for not looking into the problem 20k miles ago when it first started.

 

[huntergreen]

OP, .Any update ?

 

[Random_Walk]

Blame yourself for not looking into the problem 20k miles ago when it first started.

I hate to say it, but this, right here, is the best answer I've seen.

I get it, we all get busy, and sometimes I'm the absolute king of procrastination. However, this is a serious thing, especially on a truck that you use as a daily driver. Maybe I'm more sensitive to it than most given my remote location (where for me, getting stuck means *at least* a 10-20 mile walk home, no cell signal half the time to call the wife or anyone for a pick-up, and no taxi or uber to call. Don't ask what towing would cost out here.)

Either way, letting something slide even if it looks minor is definitely not something you should do on a daily driver, no matter what you drive (truck, car, motorbike, scooter... doesn't matter. Fix that **** ASAP if you can, doubly so if you're still paying on the thing.)

If all else fails, scrounge through the junkyards for replacements on suspect parts, load the Parts Cannon, and fire at will. Speaking of which, I bet that with a bit of sweat and a handful of tools you could get a new (okay, working) harness yourself out of a wrecked junkyard RAM, and do it for less than an hour's work and maybe $50 max. Those things are quite modular, and the RAM 4th Gen covers a whole lotta years. The odds of a perfect fit if you slop it +/- 1 or 2 model years in either direction? Pretty solid odds worth chasing, and if it were me having to do it, I'd go for that.

Seriously though - the problem should have been looked at at the first sign of something wrong. If nothing else, see if you can find the issue yourself, or get a dealer or mechanic to troubleshoot it for you, then politely refuse whatever it is they say needs repaired (basically "Wow... I don't quite have the money for that. Can I get back to you?", then take it home, double-check if you can, and do the fixing part yourself if you have the skills to do so.)

PS: did you get a Carfax report before you bought it? Hindsight and all that ****, but I am curious. I ask because if you got a clean Carfax for it but there's obvious signs of, say, flood damage, you might get some help out of that direction.

 

[NCRaineman]

I have saved myself some $$$$ by researching my trucks problems through googles.

Then, once I somewhat have an idea as what the issue is. I take online classes through the university of YouTube and watch some DIY tutorials.

Also, AutoZone will use their handy code reader for free if you just walk in if your truck is throwing a code.

Pull that bad boy into your garage with a 6 pack and give er’ hell.

I've rebuilt two engines in my driveway over the last five years, along with numerous other automotive projects, with a generous amount of help from YouTube U and a few gearheads in the family.

Also, you can buy an OBD2 scanner for about $20. Check Amazon or Wish. It's a great thing to have and better than going to AutoZone every time you need a CEL read or cleared.

 

[fbeau]

Hello all,

Technical questions to follow briefing;

I purchased my 2014 1500 with the 5.7 roughly 1.5 years ago, it had 43,*** on it at the time. At roughly 49,*** my fuel gauge became faulty, showing empty 50 miles after fill up. I contacted Ram after reading about several alike cases online, but this went nowhere because Ram hadn’t issued a recall. Skip ahead to 52,***, and my dash intermittently shows a separate traction control light. With this came no cruise control. This problem became more and more frequent, with additional warning lights such as “BRAKE” and ABS and “service trailer brake system”, with no cruise control or 4wd. Once again, I give Ram a call but because there is no recall on “MY” issues, they offered no assistance. I continue driving my truck, as the lights at this time did not effect performance, and this vehicle served as my daily driver. At 65,***, with my dash still lit up like a Christmas tree, my rotary shifter becomes “stuck” in park, leaving my ram immobile. Needless to say, I was very unpleased. I returned to the truck later that day, and the issue had temporarily gone away. Now, at 68,***, my truck will not shift out of park, period. It was time to go pay my local ram dealership $100 to plug into the computer to diagnose. What they’ve found is a corroded ABS module connector, and their fix is a new wiring harness costing right over 2k. I opened a RAM care case, and after sitting at the dealership for nearly a month, I called today and found out RAM will not offer me any assistance. They weren’t even going to call me and give me an update on the case. Now, I am making payments on a vehicle I can’t even drive but I refuse to give my dealership the 2k they are asking for to fix it. When I get home from vacation on Monday, it’s going on a trailer and back to my place where I hope to get the thing back on the road.

My question is, should I really need a whole new wiring harness for just a corroded connector? The connector on the ABS module side is good and will stay in. Does anybody have a part number of the connector on the harness side? Also, do you think I will need to take the truck back to the stealership to have it “flashed” once I put the new connectors in?

Looking for ANY AND ALL advice!

Service is the key to selling more than one vehicle to a person,I have had all types of vehicles in my life and I drive a 2017 Power Wagon, so far so good with 18,000 kms on it.I had a 2008,2011 and a 2014 F150s all ,good trucks very few issues and spot on service.I have heard some no good stories about Dodge vehicle service and warranty,hopefully you can restore your ride without breaking the bank.good luck brother


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[WTM75]

Dont forget to set aside some $$$ for one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Youtube-CERTIFIED-Master-Automobile-Technician/dp/B01N97GI3D

That is FUNNY!!

 

[boblonben]

My issue with ram is that I have a 2014 truck with less than 70k that isn’t even drivable? I’m a little confused how you’re not seeing what the issue is here?

Also, a recall is usually issued based upon a known and reoccurring issue, such as the issues I have been experiencing.

Thanks for your .02 cents.

THE END.

So what would the recall be for?? There are none. I can not find one on an ABS corrode problem. Recalls are usually based on a problem that has appeared on several vehicles over the period of time (always exceptions to that). Actually called my favorite, local dealerships service - really great folks btw - and am told they have never seen this problem. But the guy said as an out of warrantee if you asked them they would replace the connector, clean up the contacts and your problem would probably stop. Suc things happen with used vehicles sometimes. That is the chance you take with any kind of vehicle. You would need to determine WHY that particular unit corroded in the first place - very unusual. He claimed that would be about a $200 job tops. You do not need a whole new harness, unless you have a crap dealership trying to just gouge you for more money - NOT RAM's fault btw. Have any idea where the truck came from, sure it is not a flood truck? If it is, many other problems will start to creep up. Good luck.

 

[motmcd]

The ONLY time I go to a dealer for service is if it's a recall or warranty claim. Otherwise, I do it myself or take it to my mechanic who I trust.

 

[Dusty]

I have a 2014 Ram 1500. At 23030 miles I got a Service Shift Control Module and ABS fault messages. Technician found water in the ABS Control Module connector and a failed ABS Control Module. Technician replaced the module and packed the connector with silicone grease. Fixed under warranty and problem has never returned.

At 43000 miles when this problem first occurred with the originators vehicle, Ram would've warranted the repair, parts and labor he had been the original owner. As a second owner I believe you could've transferred the balance of the warranty for a cost. In 2014 the factory warranty was 5 years or 100,000 miles.

People who buy used vehicles must assume the risk of repairs or obtain an extended warranty, and it doesn't matter what make or model vehicle.

Regards,
Dusty

2014 Ram Big Horn 1500 Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP70, 3.92 LSD, factory dual exhaust, 20” wheels. Now at: 080397 miles.

 

[PoMansRam]

People who buy used vehicles must assume the risk of repairs or obtain an extended warranty, and it doesn't matter what make or model vehicle...

That's true, but if you're just out of warranty, you can get them to step up. Doesn't matter if it was bought new or used. I know I have with Ford and Nissan in the past. Most recently was with our 2016 Nissan Quest we bought used in 2017. Had some paint/rust issues on the liftgate that I brought up to the dealer at almost 50K miles in April of this year. Nissan only covers this type of defect for 3/36. I stayed calm, cool and persisted. They sent it up the chain and in the end they covered 90% of the repair cost. It cost me under $50 to get it fixed.

I know the above is off topic, but NOTHING is off the table when it comes to working with dealer service departments. They need your work and they can/will work with you.

I feel for the OP here. Had his Ram been a ~2015 and he addressed these issues at ~40K miles he would have had a much better chance getting the repairs goodwilled.

 

[huntergreen]

Still think he needs another dealer.

 

[BigMike518]

As with most newer vehicles, everything is electronic and one bad sensor or wire sends everything into chaos. Worn brakes, low brake fluid, faulty speed sensors, or an ABS connector failure affects traction control, 4wd, cruise control, trailer brakes, anything that has to do with wheel speed/traction. And dealerships repairs are a money pit, like someone else posted, find yourself a decent mechanic that you trust and can get the right fix the first time. It’s not the mfg fault for the bad connector. Weather, wear, time, water, road conditions all affect electronics negatively. It’s a price you have to pay for buying used out of warranty and for having those “comfort” systems controlled by a computer.

 

[S0CAL]

Here’s a little simple advise for a truck when it’s out of warranty and needing repairs. Find you a close or local reputable mechanic that’s is capable. You’ll save over the dealership every time. Honestly one of the best reasons for me having a used truck is I don’t really have to deal with the dealership. I can go where I know there is more capable mechanics. Sorry truck has issues but that is def part of the risk buying used. I have yet to buy a used truck and not stick 1-2k in them within the first year. Be it fluid changes and filters. To repairs, tires etc....

^ T H I S !!!

 

[S0CAL]

Dont forget to set aside some $$$ for one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Youtube-CERTIFIED-Master-Automobile-Technician/dp/B01N97GI3D

That is some funny **** right there!!

 

[S0CAL]

The ONLY time I go to a dealer for service is if it's a recall or warranty claim. Otherwise, I do it myself or take it to my mechanic who I trust.

^ Win

 

[Random_Walk]

Still think he needs another dealer.

Couldn't hurt to try, but keep the expectations low.