TERRIBLE experience with Ram

[Amccutc21]

Hello all,

Technical questions to follow briefing;

I purchased my 2014 1500 with the 5.7 roughly 1.5 years ago, it had 43,*** on it at the time. At roughly 49,*** my fuel gauge became faulty, showing empty 50 miles after fill up. I contacted Ram after reading about several alike cases online, but this went nowhere because Ram hadn’t issued a recall. Skip ahead to 52,***, and my dash intermittently shows a separate traction control light. With this came no cruise control. This problem became more and more frequent, with additional warning lights such as “BRAKE” and ABS and “service trailer brake system”, with no cruise control or 4wd. Once again, I give Ram a call but because there is no recall on “MY” issues, they offered no assistance. I continue driving my truck, as the lights at this time did not effect performance, and this vehicle served as my daily driver. At 65,***, with my dash still lit up like a Christmas tree, my rotary shifter becomes “stuck” in park, leaving my ram immobile. Needless to say, I was very unpleased. I returned to the truck later that day, and the issue had temporarily gone away. Now, at 68,***, my truck will not shift out of park, period. It was time to go pay my local ram dealership $100 to plug into the computer to diagnose. What they’ve found is a corroded ABS module connector, and their fix is a new wiring harness costing right over 2k. I opened a RAM care case, and after sitting at the dealership for nearly a month, I called today and found out RAM will not offer me any assistance. They weren’t even going to call me and give me an update on the case. Now, I am making payments on a vehicle I can’t even drive but I refuse to give my dealership the 2k they are asking for to fix it. When I get home from vacation on Monday, it’s going on a trailer and back to my place where I hope to get the thing back on the road.

My question is, should I really need a whole new wiring harness for just a corroded connector? The connector on the ABS module side is good and will stay in. Does anybody have a part number of the connector on the harness side? Also, do you think I will need to take the truck back to the stealership to have it “flashed” once I put the new connectors in?

Looking for ANY AND ALL advice!

 

[Pull Ya]

Contact Ram Cares on the forum .
Jay

 

[yillbs]

These are my favorite. Lucky for you, i'm REALLY awesome at answering questions! Let's do this inline!

1. You purchased the truck out of a full BTB warranty.
2. Faulty fuel gauge is not under warranty, not a powertrain issue.
3. why did you call ram? You didnt' have a warranty.

EDIT: Followup question.... Were you thinking by saying you feel like there is an issue on the internet that the multi billion dollar company should merely issue a recall based on what? Your personal online searching of this particular problem?

As for the wiring harness... probably a yes. However; if not a yes, tell them to replace the sensor and find out if it works. It's not under warranty, so you can tell them to replace whatever you want. If that's what they are saying the issue is, then have at it.

I'm still trying to understand where the issue with " ram " as a company is? You had something fail outside of warranty, and you're angry they didn't do anything for you, or are you angry they just charge a lot to fix an issue?

The end.

 

[Amccutc21]

My issue with ram is that I have a 2014 truck with less than 70k that isn’t even drivable? I’m a little confused how you’re not seeing what the issue is here?

Also, a recall is usually issued based upon a known and reoccurring issue, such as the issues I have been experiencing.

Thanks for your .02 cents.

THE END.

 

[Fitz-0518]

By

 

[huntergreen]

My issue with ram is that I have a 2014 truck with less than 70k that isn’t even drivable? I’m a little confused how you’re not seeing what the issue is here?

Also, a recall is usually issued based upon a known and reoccurring issue, such as the issues I have been experiencing.

Thanks for your .02 cents.

THE END.

The issue on the gas tank is the wrong programing applied to the 32 gallon gas tank on the 1500s. Very different to what you are describing. Instead of having the truck towed home, maybe you could try a different dealer or a shop you trust.

 

[yillbs]

The issue on the gas tank is the wrong programing applied to the 32 gallon gas tank on the 1500s. Very different to what you are describing. Instead of having the truck towed home, maybe you could try a different dealer or a shop you trust.

This

 

[yillbs]

My issue with ram is that I have a 2014 truck with less than 70k that isn’t even drivable? I’m a little confused how you’re not seeing what the issue is here?

Also, a recall is usually issued based upon a known and reoccurring issue, such as the issues I have been experiencing.

Thanks for your .02 cents.

THE END.

Your issue isn't an issue. Your truck is out of warranty. This is why warranties exist. Yes, it sucks. Why are you expecting them to fix something for you they blatantly say " we will not fix once you drive this many miles, or own this truck for this long "

For the sensor issue, it's a cheap " replace and see what happens " give it a try.

 

[Random_Walk]

I hate to say it, but yeah... out-of-warranty means out-of-warranty. This is exactly why I bought an additional 4 years of warranty (B2B, handled by my credit union). Could be a sucker's bet, but if that crap happens to me, I'm confident that it's taken care of. Still have over a year of FCA B2B warranty on top of that.

If you're still here, a bit of advice:

Buying used saves you buckets of cash otherwise burned off on depreciation, but you have to know what warning signs to look for before buying, and at the same time have a means to CYA if something goes 'splat. That add-on warranty cost a little bit, but is way less than I would have paid brand-new, so...

 

[22hemi13]

Here’s a little simple advise for a truck when it’s out of warranty and needing repairs. Find you a close or local reputable mechanic that’s is capable. You’ll save over the dealership every time. Honestly one of the best reasons for me having a used truck is I don’t really have to deal with the dealership. I can go where I know there is more capable mechanics. Sorry truck has issues but that is def part of the risk buying used. I have yet to buy a used truck and not stick 1-2k in them within the first year. Be it fluid changes and filters. To repairs, tires etc....

 

[Black W900]

Hello all,

Technical questions to follow briefing;

I purchased my 2014 1500 with the 5.7 roughly 1.5 years ago, it had 43,*** on it at the time. At roughly 49,*** my fuel gauge became faulty, showing empty 50 miles after fill up. I contacted Ram after reading about several alike cases online, but this went nowhere because Ram hadn’t issued a recall. Skip ahead to 52,***, and my dash intermittently shows a separate traction control light. With this came no cruise control. This problem became more and more frequent, with additional warning lights such as “BRAKE” and ABS and “service trailer brake system”, with no cruise control or 4wd. Once again, I give Ram a call but because there is no recall on “MY” issues, they offered no assistance. I continue driving my truck, as the lights at this time did not effect performance, and this vehicle served as my daily driver. At 65,***, with my dash still lit up like a Christmas tree, my rotary shifter becomes “stuck” in park, leaving my ram immobile. Needless to say, I was very unpleased. I returned to the truck later that day, and the issue had temporarily gone away. Now, at 68,***, my truck will not shift out of park, period. It was time to go pay my local ram dealership $100 to plug into the computer to diagnose. What they’ve found is a corroded ABS module connector, and their fix is a new wiring harness costing right over 2k. I opened a RAM care case, and after sitting at the dealership for nearly a month, I called today and found out RAM will not offer me any assistance. They weren’t even going to call me and give me an update on the case. Now, I am making payments on a vehicle I can’t even drive but I refuse to give my dealership the 2k they are asking for to fix it. When I get home from vacation on Monday, it’s going on a trailer and back to my place where I hope to get the thing back on the road.

My question is, should I really need a whole new wiring harness for just a corroded connector? The connector on the ABS module side is good and will stay in. Does anybody have a part number of the connector on the harness side? Also, do you think I will need to take the truck back to the stealership to have it “flashed” once I put the new connectors in?

Looking for ANY AND ALL advice!

WOW!!!! Talk about turning a simple issue into a nightmare.
Replace the sensor and see if it works and then go from there.

You bought a used truck, sometimes you take it in the ass on used vehicles and sometimes you don't.

This isn't RAM's problem, it's yours.

 

[TXCOMT]

Hey, OP, I know you're getting ragged on a little here (and for good reason), so let me suggest something to consider in the future: get a CPO vehicle.

I can't speak to the FCA experience as I purchased both a '14 Charger R/T and my '16 Reb new while my '12 Ram was used, but I can tell you Porsche took the hit for a long list of things I found wrong with the wife's '14 Cayenne S. I would imagine other manufacturers would treat you similarly since many consider CPO purchases like buying new.

Therefore, there are still factory warranties on them (P just went to unlimited miles last year!) and that's a big deal when you factor in all the electronics in vehicles today. Yep, the advice about independent shops is still relevant, but the factory doesn't have to share all their diagnostic tools with those guys; they must do so with their own dealerships. Sometimes that's worth something!

Sorry to hear about your issues as it's just not cool when you ride craps out on you...I hope your issues are resolved quickly and cheaply! This forum is a great resource so use it.

TXCOMT

 

[valvestem]

OP. A wire with a corroded end can easily be replaced by a knowledgeable person with the proper tool(s). Even if it is in a plug/connection.

 

[yillbs]

Hey, OP, I know you're getting ragged on a little here (and for good reason), so let me suggest something to consider in the future: get a CPO vehicle.

I can't speak to the FCA experience as I purchased both a '14 Charger R/T and my '16 Reb new while my '12 Ram was used, but I can tell you Porsche took the hit for a long list of things I found wrong with the wife's '14 Cayenne S. I would imagine other manufacturers would treat you similarly since many consider CPO purchases like buying new.

Therefore, there are still factory warranties on them (P just went to unlimited miles last year!) and that's a big deal when you factor in all the electronics in vehicles today. Yep, the advice about independent shops is still relevant, but the factory doesn't have to share all their diagnostic tools with those guys; they must do so with their own dealerships. Sometimes that's worth something!

Sorry to hear about your issues as it's just not cool when you ride craps out on you...I hope your issues are resolved quickly and cheaply! This forum is a great resource so use it.

TXCOMT

Super sound advice. Fca offers better cpo warranties than new in some cases!!!

 

[HemiPower36]

I have saved myself some $$$$ by researching my trucks problems through googles.

Then, once I somewhat have an idea as what the issue is. I take online classes through the university of YouTube and watch some DIY tutorials.

Also, AutoZone will use their handy code reader for free if you just walk in if your truck is throwing a code.

Pull that bad boy into your garage with a 6 pack and give er’ hell. With the money you save, hit up a local ***** bar or buy a Baja Designs light from bailey. Win win all around. Just saying. You can do it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[chrisbh17]

I have saved myself some $$$$ by researching my trucks problems through googles.

Then, once I somewhat have an idea as what the issue is. I take online classes through the university of YouTube and watch some DIY tutorials.

Also, AutoZone will use their handy code reader for free if you just walk in if your truck is throwing a code.

Pull that bad boy into your garage with a 6 pack and give er’ hell. With the money you save, hit up a local ***** bar or buy a Baja Designs light from bailey. Win win all around. Just saying. You can do it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Dont forget to set aside some $$$ for one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Youtube-CERTIFIED-Master-Automobile-Technician/dp/B01N97GI3D

 

[HemiPower36]

Dont forget to set aside some $$$ for one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Youtube-CERTIFIED-Master-Automobile-Technician/dp/B01N97GI3D

Hahahaha! Damn right.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[indept]

You guys are tough, the guy is upset that he has a brick in his driveway he has to make payments on. Yes its out of warranty so buyer beware. This bashing reminds me of the F150 forums where NOBODY can talk trash about the almighty F150....

OP, when you say the connector is corroded, how corroded is it, 1 pin or the whole thing?
What corroded it, did battery acid leak onto it or did it overheat from a possible short circuit? As mentioned above, a local shop may be able to fix this much cheaper.

 

[Hootbro]

Good learning lesson here. Either buy new for the warranty or inquire about purchasing one (probably 3rd party) when buying used.

 

[Triumphx]

Sorry to hear OP, grab you a $4 steel brush and a $1.29 coke and scrub that sucker. If that doesn’t work try replacing the terminal and/or module. It’s a cheap attempt that i bet would fix it versus dropping $2k on a whole harness.