throttle body

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Orange_Ram

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earlier this week i experienced a drop in rpms after i parked my truck getting home from work. 30 seconds after i parked my rpms dropped from 600 to 500 then down to 300 then back up to 600. all in a matter of seconds. since it was time got replace my battery i figured it could be that. with that being said, i was thinking of cleaning my throttle body. im also replacing the throttle body gasket and getting a new air intake temp sensor.

since im dealing with the throttle body already i wanted to ask yall if a throttle body spacer mod helps at all or would i just upgrade to a bigger throttle body? do i need to tune the truck afterwards? i was looking for a thread on but couldnt find much.
 
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HemiRyan

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earlier this week i experienced a drop in rpms after i parked my truck getting home from work. 30 seconds after i parked my rpms dropped from 600 to 500 then down to 300 then back up to 600. all in a matter of seconds. since it was time got replace my battery i figured it could be that. with that being said, i was thinking of cleaning my throttle body. im also replacing the throttle body gasket and getting a new air intake temp sensor.

since im dealing with the throttle body already i wanted to ask yall if a throttle body spacer mod helps at all or would i just upgrade to a bigger throttle body? do i need to tune the truck afterwards? i was looking for a thread on but couldnt find much.

OK, first of all, do NOT get a TB spacer. It is literally just paper weight and a “sound mod”, and it can actually hurt performance.

Now for upgrading to a bigger TB, that all just depends on what your goal is.

IF: your goal is to simply restore the “throttle” your truck had originally from the factory, go with the stock 80mm TB.

IF: your goal is to simply restore the “throttle” your truck had originally from the factory AND possibly gain minor mid end torque, better throttle response, and a faster rev, go with a 85mm TB like what I did.

DO NOT GO WITH ANYTHING BIGGER THAN 85MM!! IT WILL HURT YOUR LOW END TORQUE!!!

Now, if you end up going with the 85mm TB, of course you’re gonna take out a few extra bucks, and don’t expect dramatic gains in performance without a tune (anything above 3+ to 5+ hp) unless you port the intake manifold and get a tune.

Now, I would simply start with the TB first before going crazy and throwing on a bunch of other parts, and just do everything one by one until it all works out. I had to learn that the hard way..

P.S. Be cautious about some of the people on this forum. When you bring up the benefits from electric fan swaps and 85mm TBs on stock trucks, they’ll laugh at you. :oops:
 

Wild one

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earlier this week i experienced a drop in rpms after i parked my truck getting home from work. 30 seconds after i parked my rpms dropped from 600 to 500 then down to 300 then back up to 600. all in a matter of seconds. since it was time got replace my battery i figured it could be that. with that being said, i was thinking of cleaning my throttle body. im also replacing the throttle body gasket and getting a new air intake temp sensor.

since im dealing with the throttle body already i wanted to ask yall if a throttle body spacer mod helps at all or would i just upgrade to a bigger throttle body? do i need to tune the truck afterwards? i was looking for a thread on but couldnt find much.
Read my reply on the "More Mods" post.

 

pacofortacos

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I could see where the 85 mm throttle body might help off idle and partial throttle opening as you are letting more air in per degree of opening - on a completely stock 2013+ setup.

Similar to if you push the pedal open a bit more except that the TPS would see the lower opening angle, but the O2 will give more fuel to compensate for the more air.

Feel will probably be similar to a Pedal Commander - which is much less expensive.
 

HemiRyan

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I could see where the 85 mm throttle body might help off idle and partial throttle opening as you are letting more air in per degree of opening - on a completely stock 2013+ setup.

Similar to if you push the pedal open a bit more except that the TPS would see the lower opening angle, but the O2 will give more fuel to compensate for the more air.

Feel will probably be similar to a Pedal Commander - which is much less expensive.

I'm pretty sure that all a Pedal Commander does is tell the PCM to fully open the TB at moderate throttle to make it feel "punchier", but I think that could also depend on what mode you have it on. I may not be right, but that is what I've heard from others. Just correct me if I'm wrong! :Big Laugh:

I never owned a Pedal Commander, so I haven't got a feel of it's behavior.
 

pacofortacos

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Pretty much it just opens the throttle quicker and a bit more open especially off idle and light throttle, so more air quicker.

The 85mm will do a similar end result and since it isn't huge, it'll keep velocity up and let the O2 easily keep up with the air demand.

Different methods but I would bet similar feeling for the driver - not sure if any mpg difference between the 2 methods.

I may be wrong though :)
 

crackerjack1957

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All this TB crap was proved out years ago
From another forum

Recently there has been a mad rush of people going out and buying the largest throttle body they can find and I've put as much information as I can out there in a very sporadic and piecemeal fashion.

I will lay out what there is to know about throttle bodies and their flow capabilities as it relates to making power, which is what everybody want to focus on, but I will also talk about ideal application of throttle body size compared to modifications at the end, so if you don't care to read it all, just scroll down to the end for the [TLDR]



The first thing people need to know, is bigger is NOT better, especially on a naturally aspirated motor. You also need to look at the difference between the horsepower and torque numbers when looking at flow characteristics and rates. Torque is used to get your truck going and is created by having a higher intake velocity; horsepower is what gets you moving faster once you're moving (in a very simplistic view) and this is created by flowing volume. Notice the difference? velocity is not the same thing as volume, especially in pipe flow, which is what our CAI tubes, TB, intake manifold, and intake runners all are.

This all relates to throttle bodies and is something that needs to be understood first because it will dictate the size of TB you purchase, and here's how: Flow through a tube is related by volume and velocity, in addition to flow state, density, heat, and pressure(or vacuum). Every pipe has a defined cross section and the inner wall characteristics is what I will focus on because it is what affects flow rates.

When a fluid (in our case air) flows through a pipe in a smooth (laminar) flow, it is affected by the friction against the inner wall of the pipe, and this friction is created by the no-slip condition (basically the air against the pipe wall is not moving) and this then slows all the adjacent fluid down as well. This boundary layer's thickness is determined by the velocity of the flow. This image shows you what the flow looks like based on velocity. All flow, given a long enough pipe will end up looking like the top parabola where you have reached maximum flow velocity but in a very small diameter of the pipe itself. The larger the diameter of the pipe, the longer it takes to reach this maximum flow velocity.



So, that's what the flow profiles look like. Now, all of this is determined from a large supply reservoir, which in the case of our engines, is the atmosphere, but also the intake manifold's plenum as well. This is what most people don't think about. That nice hollow space in the intake manifold is used as storage of a volume of air, that is all. There are tubes going from the plenum to the intake side of the head, and it is THESE intake runners that actually increase the velocity of the air flowing into the engine. here is an image to give you an idea of what it actually looks like. Blue is low velocity and red is high velocity. This is an example of a long intake runner, which is excellent for generating low RPM torque.



I have talked a lot about flow velocity and its importance, but what creates flow velocity? Pressure differential, or in the case of a naturally aspirated engine, the vacuum created by the intake stroke of the piston in the combustion chamber. This vacuum is determined by the volume of the combustion chamber, and it is only created for a short period of time before the intake valve closes. Each cylinder will create the same amount of vacuum per cycle, but the vacuum that is measured is the manifold vacuum pressure which is dependent on the number of cylinders creating vacuum and the RPM. If you have an engine running at 1200rpm it will create less vacuum than an engine running at 4000 rpm because the cylinders don't need to be refilled as often per minute. So, it's this vacuum that determines the velocity of the air going into the combustion chamber from the intake manifold plenum. Remember this, if you remember anything: At maximum vacuum you need maximum volume to meet the cycle rate demands, but at low vacuum you need maximum velocity to meet the cycle's duration limitations. Low-mid vacuum demand is 3500rpm or less, and high vacuum demand is 3500rpm or higher.

Now, how does this relate to your throttle body selection? Simple, the throttle body is what allows the air in the intake manifold to be replenished, and it's size determines how quickly it is replenished BUT, the velocity of the flow into the intake manifold through the throttle body still translates into velocity of the flow down the intake runners when the throttle body is open. What this means is you want to maintain flow velocity through your entire system. The throttle body is the natural choke point in our intake due to it's design and construction, but it also acts similar to a venturi, which is a device designed to increase velocity in a pipe in a way that does not create turbulent (unstable) air flows, which kill velocity AND volume.
 

crackerjack1957

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You can see how it's has a nice 85 mm cross section, and very common for the 'ported' TBs, it maintains the stock butterfly valve diameter of 80mm. Now, you'll also notice that the butterfly diameter is not at a 90 degree angle to the TB's wall, and that is to increase flow in low vacuum situations. You'll also notice that there is a necking down and sudden narrowing of the cross section right at the butterfly's contact surface. So while the picture above is marketed as an 85mm, which granted, is its maximum diameter at one point in the TB, its still an 80mm butterfly.

[off topic] There are several manufacturers making TRUE diameter TBs like BBK, Arrington, some of the fastman TBs. The Moe's, modern muscle, and the rest of the fastman TBs, are all ported with some work done to the butterfly valve. Ask questions when buying a throttle body about what the butterfly diameter is, you might be surprised. [/off topic]

The necking down you see is so sudden that it actually slows down the flow velocity, which at low-mid vacuum is a bad thing. Ideally, you want a gradual reduction over the length of the intake side, and a gradual expansion on the outlet side to maintain flow velocity. Most ported TBs don't have this, but the bigger "diameter" numbers fool a lot of people.






Alright, after all that is said and done, here's the meat and potatoes of this entire thread. Thanks for bearing with me so far:

What RPM do most people spend driving? The answer is 2000-3500rpm. Where is our maximum torque? 2700rpm. What gets our trucks moving from a stop? Torque, not horsepower. Why is this important? Because it will determine where you want your power, up in the high RPM range, or down in the low-mid where you'll get the most out of it. If you do a lot of driving over 4000rpm, let me know where you live, because I want to move there and let my forged, supercharged, and nitrous blown truck do its thing all fuel tank long.

[TLDR:]

For a stock-mildly modded N/A engine (CAI, programmer, exhaust) a TRUE throttle body diameter of 80-83mm is ideal, it will allow a good velocity at low vacuum but still flow more than enough air into the intake manifold to keep up to the demands of the combustion chambers. An 85mm can be used and it will make a difference when at WOT, but you'll actually see a decrease in your low-end torque for getting off the line.

For a mildly-moderate N/A engine (above + headers, ported heads, cam, small nitrous shot) a TRUE throttle body diameter of 84-85mm will give near-stock low torque, but will flow significantly better at mid-high RPM.

For a heavily modded engine (above + BV heads, stroker, super/turbocharger, big n2o) an 85-90mm is a must or you'll be choking out in your mid-high RPM, and the more power generated, the more air needed.


What this comes down to is what is ideal for your engine and its use. Just because the heavier modded engines use certain sizes or products, doesn't mean they will make any improvements on a less modified engine. It may make you or the butt dyno feel better, but overall the performance will be moderate. Also, modifications work in conjunction with each other, so if you have a moderately modded engine and then slap a larger TB onto it, you'll see bigger gains, but if you put the same TB onto a stock motor, it won't make as big a difference.



I am just going to clarify something that seems to have been misinterpreted. I have been jumped on by people over several forums that are running ported throttle bodies of various brands who claim I'm full of :poopstorm:

No where in my post does it say that ported throttle bodies are evil, useless, a waste of money, or show no gains over stock. Everything about this post has to do with maintaining your intake velocity, and I specifically talk about the butterfly's diameter when it comes to the TRUE diameter of a throttle body, irregardless of the opening or maximum port diameter. So in the final section when I talk about throttle body diameter vs intended use, I am speaking specifically about the butterfly diameter.

That said, for those people running ported throttle bodies such as the Fastman or Moe's that still maintain an 80mm butterfly, you will still see gains over stock, I did not dispute that... ever. Looking at my recommendations, they are still an 80mm throttle body, and as such, are geared towards a stock-moderate build, which incidentally is what 90% of the builds out there are and these TBs will still net you gains.

This thread is also intended as a road map for those who are doing more than just the standard bolt-ons. I could probably count the forum members that are doing insane build on my fingers and toes (that allows me to count to ten) that would require a true 90mm TB
 

HemiRyan

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Now, if you end up going with the 85mm TB, of course you’re gonna take out a few extra bucks, and don’t expect dramatic gains in performance (anything above 3+ to 5+ hp) unless you port the intake manifold and get a tune.

"What this comes down to is what is ideal for your engine and its use. Just because the heavier modded engines use certain sizes or products, doesn't mean they will make any improvements on a less modified engine. It may make you or the butt dyno feel better, but overall the performance will be moderate. Also, modifications work in conjunction with each other, so if you have a moderately modded engine and then slap a larger TB onto it, you'll see bigger gains, but if you put the same TB onto a stock motor, it won't make as big a difference."

"No where in my post does it say that ported throttle bodies are evil, useless, a waste of money, or show no gains over stock. Everything about this post has to do with maintaining your intake velocity, and I specifically talk about the butterfly's diameter when it comes to the TRUE diameter of a throttle body, irregardless of the opening or maximum port diameter. So in the final section when I talk about throttle body diameter vs intended use, I am speaking specifically about the butterfly diameter."

@crackerjack1957
 
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OP
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Orange_Ram

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OK, first of all, do NOT get a TB spacer. It is literally just paper weight and a “sound mod”, and it can actually hurt performance.

Now for upgrading to a bigger TB, that all just depends on what your goal is.

IF: your goal is to simply restore the “throttle” your truck had originally from the factory, go with the stock 80mm TB.

IF: your goal is to simply restore the “throttle” your truck had originally from the factory AND possibly gain minor mid end torque, better throttle response, and a faster rev, go with a 85mm TB like what I did.

DO NOT GO WITH ANYTHING BIGGER THAN 85MM!! IT WILL HURT YOUR LOW END TORQUE!!!

Now, if you end up going with the 85mm TB, of course you’re gonna take out a few extra bucks, and don’t expect dramatic gains in performance without a tune (anything above 3+ to 5+ hp) unless you port the intake manifold and get a tune.

Now, I would simply start with the TB first before going crazy and throwing on a bunch of other parts, and just do everything one by one until it all works out. I had to learn that the hard way..

P.S. Be cautious about some of the people on this forum. When you bring up the benefits from electric fan swaps and 85mm TBs on stock trucks, they’ll laugh at you. :oops:
yea my goal is to bump up my truck bc right now it just feels sluggish since its lifted and on 20 inch rims and 35s. i just figured a decent upgrade to the TB would be a start. i do want long tube headers ultimately. 5.7s sound amazing with them headers
 

jason1

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Just cleaning the intake, throttle body, and pcv valve while you're there will improve the butt dino. I'd also replace the air filter and run a couple bottles of Redline SI-1 in a tank that should add another 20hp to the rear end. Since taking the time to clean all that out I'd add a oil catch can if you don't already have one and will be like running 120 octane.
 

Wild one

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"What this comes down to is what is ideal for your engine and its use. Just because the heavier modded engines use certain sizes or products, doesn't mean they will make any improvements on a less modified engine. It may make you or the butt dyno feel better, but overall the performance will be moderate. Also, modifications work in conjunction with each other, so if you have a moderately modded engine and then slap a larger TB onto it, you'll see bigger gains, but if you put the same TB onto a stock motor, it won't make as big a difference."

"No where in my post does it say that ported throttle bodies are evil, useless, a waste of money, or show no gains over stock. Everything about this post has to do with maintaining your intake velocity, and I specifically talk about the butterfly's diameter when it comes to the TRUE diameter of a throttle body, irregardless of the opening or maximum port diameter. So in the final section when I talk about throttle body diameter vs intended use, I am speaking specifically about the butterfly diameter."

@crackerjack1957
Pull it off and at least port the intake mouth of your manifold. There's a mis-match between the intake manifold and your 85mm throttle body,that should be cleaned up to reduce airflow reversion. A 3" diameter sanding cartridge in a drill will make short work of porting the manifold,stuff a bunch of rags in the intake before you start porting it.
You're next step up,is swapping out the stock 90 degree truck manifold to the better 6.4 truck intake manifold.
Check with Matt Fikac at Moes,he carries the 6.4 truck manifold in a complete swap kit,with the airbox to match the manifold,and the short runner valve extension harness. And no the 6.4 car manifold won't work,not only does it not fit,it's basically just a 5.7 truck manifold with a differant snout on it
BTW you can port your stock manifold mouth out to roughly 87mm
 

HemiRyan

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yea my goal is to bump up my truck bc right now it just feels sluggish since its lifted and on 20 inch rims and 35s. i just figured a decent upgrade to the TB would be a start. i do want long tube headers ultimately. 5.7s sound amazing with them headers

In that case, I would take @pacofortacos advice that he gave me on here earlier and get a Pedal Commander. I’m sure that the 85mm TB and Pedal Commander would be a good budget friendly combo without tuning your truck.

ALTHOUGH, your truck is much easier and cheaper to tune because it is a 2009, meaning no locked PCM. Unfortunately, it is the opposite with my 2016..

It’s all up to you. You can do a Pedal Commander or take out a couple extra bands and get a actual tune that will give you MUCH BIGGER benefits.

Just know that if you EVER end up going with long tube headers, you will absolutely need a tune no matter what.

Again, just like what we’ve all been saying, do NOT expect anything crazy from the 85mm TB unless you port your intake manifold and get a tune. On a stock 345 Hemi, I would expect a 85mm TB to show 3+ to 5+ HP gains MAX, so the biggest difference will be the throttle response and how much quicker the truck will rev. Still a fun little mod though!


Thank you for your help @Wild one AND @pacofortacos !!
 

Wild one

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In that case, I would take @pacofortacos advice that he gave me on here earlier and get a Pedal Commander. I’m sure that the 85mm TB and Pedal Commander would be a good budget friendly combo without tuning your truck.

ALTHOUGH, your truck is much easier and cheaper to tune because it is a 2009, meaning no locked PCM. Unfortunately, it is the opposite with my 2016..

It’s all up to you. You can do a Pedal Commander or take out a couple extra bands and get a actual tune that will give you MUCH BIGGER benefits.

Just know that if you EVER end up going with long tube headers, you will absolutely need a tune no matter what.

Again, just like what we’ve all been saying, do NOT expect anything crazy from the 85mm TB unless you port your intake manifold and get a tune. On a stock 345 Hemi, I would expect a 85mm TB to show 3+ to 5+ HP gains MAX, so the biggest difference will be the throttle response and how much quicker the truck will rev. Still a fun little mod though!


Thank you for your help @Wild one AND @pacofortacos !!
Just an FYI,they'll run perfectly fine with long tubes and "no" tune,you just won't get all the benefits from them.I ran my truck for at least 6 months with long tubes before tuning it,i ran the wifes 1320 Challenger with long tubes for over a year,before i got around to tuning it,my basically stock 300 with a 5.7 is running the 6.4 exhaust manifolds / the bigger 2.75" Hellcat exhaust / catless midpipes and "no" tune,both the truck and Challenger were also catless with no tune.
All 3 ran/run between 12.6 to 12.8 A/Fr at wide open,and they generally cruise at 14.4/14.6 at cruise rpm,which is pretty well spot on for a naturally aspirated engine.
There's enough leeway in the stock fueling parameters to run long tubes with out tuning,but you'll gain a fair bit more from them by springing for a good HP tune.
If you've never heard of a 1320,they're basically Ma Mopars drag oriented N/A 6.4 Challenger,and are the only stock 8HP70 equipped vehicle with a factory transmission brake,they also come through with a factory high stall convertor / differant shift mapping in their 8 speeds /drag radials on all 4 corners,and the 2018 Demon suspension.
Short little video on them. My wifes 1320 parked ahead of my truck,and yes she drag raced it, ;)

 

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pacofortacos

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In that case, I would take @pacofortacos advice that he gave me on here earlier and get a Pedal Commander. I’m sure that the 85mm TB and Pedal Commander would be a good budget friendly combo without tuning your truck.

ALTHOUGH, your truck is much easier and cheaper to tune because it is a 2009, meaning no locked PCM. Unfortunately, it is the opposite with my 2016..

It’s all up to you. You can do a Pedal Commander or take out a couple extra bands and get a actual tune that will give you MUCH BIGGER benefits.

Just know that if you EVER end up going with long tube headers, you will absolutely need a tune no matter what.

Again, just like what we’ve all been saying, do NOT expect anything crazy from the 85mm TB unless you port your intake manifold and get a tune. On a stock 345 Hemi, I would expect a 85mm TB to show 3+ to 5+ HP gains MAX, so the biggest difference will be the throttle response and how much quicker the truck will rev. Still a fun little mod though!


Thank you for your help @Wild one AND @pacofortacos !!
Lol I missed that his was an 09, that does make it much easier to modify.

I'm in the locked PCM range too.
 

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