Torque converter? What is the benefit?

[SCMortgageMan]

What are the costs (parts + install?)

 

[BlkRamRt]

cost is about 550+ and labor depends there is a few people that have paid 400+ dollars...the benefits, it lets you put more power to the wheels and some people have seen 1-2mpg increase...everone so far has been really happy with it.

 

[KLRpanda]

burn outs... more efficient power to the ground. the factory converter is junk pretty much

 

[URdone21]

Wow nearly $1000?!?!?!?! I could see how this may be worth it for somebody who races... Regular daily drivers though...

 

[popcenator]

Usually frees up a good amount of power as a good custom TC is more efficient, so for a daily driver it's just as beneficial.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 4

 

[PCA4208]

Wow nearly $1000?!?!?!?! I could see how this may be worth it for somebody who races... Regular daily drivers though...

Well you can always install it yourself, but it takes a while, and you must have the rights tools. Mainly a transmission jack, and jack stands.

 

[Arctic-Rodz]

No way does a higher stall converter increase MPG. On the contrary, you will loose about 2mpg in the city. Highway wont change.

But you will allow the engine to rev up higher before it delivers its torque (explains the drop in mpg)

 

[Burla]

I haven't done it yet, but when I get the stock one out I am also going to put in a Sharadon valve body. I think Moes even sell them as a pair, and they even have a no core option which is good if you ever need warranty work. Have heard nothing but good things from guys who have done both.

 

[09SMOKINHEMI]

it allows you to actually feel the 390hp that the hemi has...

 

[white13express]

How does a higher stall TC affect the towing capabilities of our trucks? Been a question I've had on my mind for a while.

 

[chrisb38002]

I have heard that the Edge TC uses the same outer housing as the factory installed TC's. If that is true, then the only way a dealership would know it's not factory would be to cut it open.
Someone will have to verify this, but that is what I have heard.

Also, if you get one that is close to the factory stall speed, the MPG should not suffer, right?

 

[BlackRamHemi]

I've had my Edge 2800 stall in since August 2011,
Hands down favorite mod (other than a Supercharger)

It actually flashes to 3000 from idle launching it at the track on 4 DR's, (intake, exhaust and tune)
I dropped 3-4 tenths off my 60 foot times instantly and it's like there is no torque management
because you are almost instantly into the powerband....no bogging off the line.

My 10' RCSB 4x4 does 5 seconds flat 0-60 on heavy street tires with ****** 3.55 gears
(305/50R20 Terra Grappler's on stock 20's)

I can light up the rear tires at will with just half throttle,
So if I want to race I need to use AWD (4-Auto) for traction or it will just sit and spin.

Since adding a Ripp Supercharger it now hits 3300 at launch and does 4 seconds 0-60 in AWD.

I'll be swapping the Edge out soon for a 3000 stall ATS Triple Lok torque monster in September,
along with my custom built transmission from L&M Customs.

as far as the rumors of Edge looking like Stock, its' close but not quite

Stock verter has part number stamp engraved and is not painted,
Edge comes painted silver

Stock


Edge


on the bottom is the real difference, Stock has welded tabs for mounting bolts


Edge has what appears to be a welded ring with 4 tapped holes for mounting to the flexplate



a Street Edge 2800 for $525 is awesome for Racing, not so much for towing.
If you tow on a regular basis, Go with a Triple Disc Billet unit from Circle D
and have them build your stall speed to around 2600 tops.

Only catch is the $$$, you're looking at $1k for a good tow rated Circle D

For those looking to DIY install, here's a copy/paste from the factory service manual:

Here are the procedures for trans removal:

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Raise and support the vehicle
3. Remove any necessary skid plates
4. Mark propeller shaft and axle companion flanges for assembly alignment.
5. Remove the rear propeller shaft
6. Remove the front propeller shaft, if necessary.
7. Remove the engine (1) to transmission (3) structural dust cover (2).
8. Remove the exhaust support bracket from the rear of the transmission.
9. Disconnect and lower or remove any necessary exhaust components.
10. Remove the starter motor.
11. Rotate crankshaft in clockwise direction until converter bolts are accessible. Then remove bolts one at a time. Rotate crankshaft with socket wrench on dampener bolt.
12. Disengage the output speed sensor connector from the output speed sensor
13. Disengage the input speed sensor connector from the input speed sensor
14. Disengage the transmission solenoid/TRS assembly connector from the transmission solenoid/TRS assembly
15. Disengage the line pressure sensor connector from the line pressure sensor
16. Disconnect gearshift cable (1) from transmission manual valve lever
17. Disconnect the transmission vent hose from the transmission.
18. Support rear of engine with safety stand or jack.
19. Raise transmission slightly with service jack to relieve load on crossmember and supports.
20. Remove bolts securing rear support and cushion to transmission and crossmember.
21. Remove transfer case, if necessary.
22. Disconnect transmission fluid cooler lines at transmission fittings and clips.

NOTE: When disconnecting the transmission oil cooler lines, it is necessary to replace the line clip that is located on the oil pan stud. The retention force of the clip is severely degraded upon removal.

23. Remove all remaining converter housing bolts.
24. Carefully work transmission and torque converter assembly rearward off engine block dowels.
25. Hold torque converter in place during transmission removal.
26. Lower transmission (2) and remove assembly from under the vehicle.
27. To remove torque converter, carefully slide torque converter out of the transmission

Here are the steps for tc removal:

1. Remove transmission and torque converter from vehicle.
2. Place a suitable drain pan under the converter housing end of the transmission.

CAUTION: Verify that transmission is secure on the lifting device or work surface, the center of gravity of the transmission will shift when the torque converter is removed creating an unstable condition. The torque converter is a heavy unit. Use caution when separating the torque converter from the transmission.

3. Pull the torque converter forward until the center hub clears the oil pump seal.
4. Separate the torque converter from the transmission.

 

[Hornet]

Any change in tranny heat when you put it in BRH.
I've been kicking a convertor around for my gutless little 4.7 for awhile now,but i love it's mileage.
But it definitely needs a little more low end grunt,a kid on a bicycle can beat it from stoplight to stoplight,lol
How soft does the gas peddle feel on light part throttle acceleration,that's something i always hated with 2800/3,000 stall street convertors was a soft feeling gas pedal.
Rick

 

[Hemi450hp]

The converter is $525, and install varies from $200-$400 depending on where you live. Like many guys have mentioned, off the line performance is going to be the most noticeable gain, but daily drivability will improve as well. The stock converter is very inefficient and is a big reason for the terrible drivetrain loss that these trucks have. For those of you that are towing, we normally set them up at a 2400-2600 stall speed to help keep temps in check with the trailer hooked up. For the everyday drivers that like to play on occasion, a 2800 stall speed would be ideal. For the guys that are at the track every weekend without hooking up a trailer, a 3000 stall speed will put a smile on your face every time you leave the line.

While there are uses for a triple disc converter, these trucks have run so well with the Billet 11" Edge, that I just don't see much reason to spend the extra money on anything else. I know of many guys that have had trouble running the smaller triple disk units because the computer just does not agree with it. Sharadon Performance has a low 11 second rumble bee that still runs the standard 11" Edge because the street manners are so much nicer and the computer does not give it any trouble. That truck is cutting high 1.4 and low 1.5 60' times with boost and nitrous using this converter.

At only $525 for the 11" Edge, it is a very tough mod to beat for these trucks.

 

[SCMortgageMan]

Thanks for the info Matt. Are there any potential negatives or drawbacks to installing one of these?

 

[Hemi450hp]

Having to replace your back tires more often...haha

With each converter being custom built for your specific application, there are not any negatives that I can think of. If someone was to install the wrong converter, then there could be trouble, but with us setting them up specific to your mods and driving style, it will be 1 of the best mods you ever do to the truck.

 

[SCMortgageMan]

You make it awfully easy to spend more money with Moe's. Guess I'll start my "TC fund" now.

 

[Hemi450hp]

HAHA. Stall speed increases with tq, and that is why BRH said his 2800 stall converter is now flashing at 3300 rpms after the supercharger install...That is the exact same converter, but it is flashing 500rpms higher now than it did when he got it. When we set up a converter, we always take into consideration your current mods and the mods you have planned for the near future so that you are not stuck having to remove and rebuild the converter down the road. Those that tow and offroad also need the converter to react different than the guys that are strictly driving on the street or at the dragstrip. This is a mod that will leave you smiling every time you leave a red light.

 

[BlackRamHemi]

The only negative I found with a higher stall was if I was on a long highway trip against a head wind, the TC would not stay in lockup, and barely hold OD, rev's were substantially higher as a result my fuel economy dropped from my usual 20mpg to just 13mpg.

This was just flat land driving, about an 8 hour trip from Alberta to Saskatchewan (Canadian prairies)

My Ram is 80% City commuter, 15% Track, 5% Highway.
Trans temps were never an issue with stock cooler /trans pan,
always stayed well below 190ºF which is actually ideal operating temp.

In the City I rarely see over 160ºF, baggin it at the track hot lapping might get up to 180º

If I had to pull a trailer or do a lot of highway miles (or both)
I would need about 2600 stall, and would seriously consider a Circle D Triple disc,
and a MagTech deep pan to hold more fluid.

One of my track buds catsltd runs a 2600 Circle D triple disc on his work truck,
10' reg cab long box with ARH LT's and he whooped my **** at the track (13.6 to my 13.9) when I was NA

He pulls a 7000 pound trailer during the week for his landscaping business
and needed to spend a little more for a TC that was up to double duty.


This is the Beast going in my Custom built and tuned trans by L&M
Custom CMR programmed for full lockup shortly after launch behind my 500whp to put all the power to the ground
It cost me just under $1k at MGH's cost but he's running it in his twin turbo with awesome results, and its boost proven.

 

[white13express]

is it required to have a tune to accommodate the higher stall on a TC or can you just drop it in with these trucks?