Torsion crank?

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Armyman14

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So tomorrow morning I am replacing both upper and lower control arms on both sides of my truck with the help of a couple mechanic buddies as my dad had mentioned that I could do my torsion crank right now if I wanted too while I had everything apart, I was just wondering if there was a write up or a video on how exactly to do it and what the risks were because I've heard so many different things I'd like to get the experienced input on it! And will I need to look into buying new shocks with this mod? Thanks a bunch!! Hoping to finish this tomorrow morning
 

Davy120

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Fix what ur gonna fix and when you put it all back together turn the bolt till you recieve ur desired lift amount. New shocks arent necessary unless you fullly crank them, i fully cranked mine and the front end rode like ass, so bought some shock extenders off ebay and they worked out perfect. I have since put new shocks on tho. Handles like a dream now.

Camo Ram
 
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Armyman14

Armyman14

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I heard that it rides kind of like a brick when you fully lift? Could I just do maybe an inch or so and still have good handling?
 
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Armyman14

Armyman14

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Btw it's 2002 1500 4x4 qcsb 4.7 v8

I'm on my way to work now and won't get off til late so whatever information you could give me would be greatly appreciated!
 

chedched

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I cranked mine all the way (gained 2 inches). The ride isn't too bad for a truck...

From everything I read I could get away without new shocks. After cranking mine, I had horrible bang noises every time they fully extended. I bought a pair of Rancho RS5000 shocks ($48 ea from Amazon) and threw them on. Those eliminated the bang and also softened up the ride a little. You don't have to install the shocks at the same time, just be prepared for a little noise from them until you do replace them.
 

Davy120

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Had the exact same thing happen, but shock extenders were only 20 bucks. But to answer ur question yes you can but itll take precision. Take a paint pen or sharpie and makr the bolt and frame, so you have a reference point make sure you do the same amount of turns on both sides and measure center of hub to fender before and after. Then adjust the bolts as needed to make it even

Camo Ram
 

NWRQC

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The more you crank the stiffer the ride will get. 2" IMO is very manageable and firms up the ride nicely. Shocks are not a must, but highly recommended.
As mentioned prior, you are just turning a bolt that pre-loads the torsion bar, very easy to do. Just lift the front wheel off the ground, turn bolts, take a trip around the block then measure. Might a suggest that you measure from the center of the fender arch to the lower lip on your wheel. It's an easy measurement and pretty precise.
 
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Armyman14

Armyman14

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I cranked mine all the way (gained 2 inches). The ride isn't too bad for a truck...

From everything I read I could get away without new shocks. After cranking mine, I had horrible bang noises every time they fully extended. I bought a pair of Rancho RS5000 shocks ($48 ea from Amazon) and threw them on. Those eliminated the bang and also softened up the ride a little. You don't have to install the shocks at the same time, just be prepared for a little noise from them until you do replace them.

Did you buy the ones made for 2 inch lift or just regular?
I'm going to do this tomorrow for sure guys! I'm also going to go but the 4 wheel parts store and buy some red boots to match my truck ;) can wait!
 

HolyRamBatman

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Be prepared to get shocks or extenders quick. Everytime you over extend your travel length you put stress on everything else. Your shock and springs are supposed to take the hits.
 
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Armyman14

Armyman14

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Be prepared to get shocks or extenders quick. Everytime you over extend your travel length you put stress on everything else. Your shock and springs are supposed to take the hits.

You mean I will need to replace then more often or just soon after I do the crank? I plan on getting them tomorrow at the same time. What's the best type of Monroe shock I could get for the occasional off-roasting but also good for day to day stuff like speed bumps?
 

jp3

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Can cranking the torsion bars affect any other areas of the truck. Such as breaking or quicker wear. And would buying a leveling kit with new keys help instead of cranking?


JP3 for threeeee
 

NWRQC

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Can cranking the torsion bars affect any other areas of the truck. Such as breaking or quicker wear. And would buying a leveling kit with new keys help instead of cranking?


JP3 for threeeee

No! aftermarket keys do the exact same thing, but cost you money.
The concept is the same, add pre-load to the T-bars.
Added wear depends on how high you go.
 
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Armyman14

Armyman14

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What exactly would wear quicker? Ball joints, tie rods, tires?
 

chedched

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Everything in the front end has more stress on it. They are designed one way from the factory. When you change those measurements, everything will change.

To answer your question Armyman, I can't remember the part number I bought for my RS5000s.

Remember, you will need an alignment after the crank is done. I needed to adjust camber and toe on my truck when it was complete. Before the crank, the alignment was in spec.
 

Davy120

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I have had mine full cranked for over a year and nothing has gone out. Got an alignement and what not everything is fine. And i beat the hell out of my truck. So just depends really. Also im running 35s

Camo Ram
 
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Armyman14

Armyman14

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Everything in the front end has more stress on it. They are designed one way from the factory. When you change those measurements, everything will change.

To answer your question Armyman, I can't remember the part number I bought for my RS5000s.

Remember, you will need an alignment after the crank is done. I needed to adjust camber and toe on my truck when it was complete. Before the crank, the alignment was in spec.

Well the tires I have now have been literally and figuratively run to the ground so I'm not so worried about an alignment messing up these tires right now, I have some new ones I spent about 1000 bucks on, I just haven't got them put on because I've been needing to change the control arms/ ball joints..nothing else should have problems if I end up waiting a week or two for an alignment right?
 
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Armyman14

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So this past Saturday didn't work out, pep boys didn't have the right bushings, we needed a 21 mm socket for the hub, decided to replace tie rod ends while we had everything apart. And apparently it was my friends' sons' birthday and I had no idea so we decided to hold off but we did switch the upper control arm on the right side so hopefully soon we can try this again!
 

Davy120

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The hub bolt should be way bigger then 21mm, should be like a 38mm

Camo Ram
 

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