towing upgrade

[ramhaulerx54]

2011 Ram 2500
Mega Cab
3.73 w/Mag-hytec rear diff cover
CTD
4x4


Was wondering what type of upgrades I would need if im planning on hauling a 35ft fifth wheel?
Hitch Weight 2000 lbs
Dry Weight 11305 lbs
Cargo Weight 2695 lbs

With my payload cap at 1930 lbs, do I need air suspension to assist with the weight of the tow hitch and kingpin?

What type of engine mods are recommended? Intake, exhaust, etc...

 

[spoon059]

Dry weights are worthless, what are your LOADED weights? An accurate pin weight estimate for a 5th wheel is 20-25% of the max GVWR. You will be over your payload rating. Depending upon the weight of your kingpin, the weight of passengers and the weight of your cargo you might be several hundred pounds over your payload.

The more important thing to worry about, in my opinion, is your AXLE ratings. I would strongly discourage you from exceeding your axle ratings. You may find that airbags, Timbrens, or Roadmaster Active Suspension (RAS) help with rear end sag. Hook it up first and see how the truck looks and rides.

It looks like your truck is rated to tow 15,000 lbs. I wouldn't think any engine mods are needed for this trailer. The Cummins is fine as is. you may find that it's BETTER towing those weights. The Cummins, especially pre-DEF 6.7's, like to be worked. Working the engines helps keep the engine and the DPF clean.

 

[TRCM]

Engine will be fine, but you will be overweight for payload at the very least..............airbags will handle the load, but you will still be over the limits

Yer in 3500 territory

 

[mtofell]

Dry weights are worthless, what are your LOADED weights? An accurate pin weight estimate for a 5th wheel is 20-25% of the max GVWR. You will be over your payload rating. Depending upon the weight of your kingpin, the weight of passengers and the weight of your cargo you might be several hundred pounds over your payload.

The more important thing to worry about, in my opinion, is your AXLE ratings. I would strongly discourage you from exceeding your axle ratings. You may find that airbags, Timbrens, or Roadmaster Active Suspension (RAS) help with rear end sag. Hook it up first and see how the truck looks and rides.

It looks like your truck is rated to tow 15,000 lbs. I wouldn't think any engine mods are needed for this trailer. The Cummins is fine as is. you may find that it's BETTER towing those weights. The Cummins, especially pre-DEF 6.7's, like to be worked. Working the engines helps keep the engine and the DPF clean.

X2

Rear axle and tire weights are most important and should not be exceeded. Truck's GVWR? That's a personal choice and you can find 40 page threads on any towing forum with all the arguments for and against.

Air bags help make towing up around a truck's max more manageable. You engine should be fine. Put your $$ and effort into the right tires and suspension upgrades if you can stay with axles weights.

 

[GsRAM]

Your going to be overloaded snd I'm assuming over your payload limit with just the dry pinweight. If 2000 is your dry pin, before you add passengers, cargo in the truck, weight of the hitch in the bed, etc, this trailer is a no go for you. If youn had a 14 and newer 2500 with all identical frame and axles to the 3500, except for the rear coils, maybe, but you don't in an 11.

Could you? Probably, you have enough engine. Should you? I wouldn't. Your call, but I'd bet that trailer is up over 13k gvwr.

 

[spoon059]

If youn had a 14 and newer 2500 with all identical frame and axles to the 3500, except for the rear coils, maybe, but you don't in an 11.

You know that the only difference between a 2500 and 3500 in the 2011 model is the rear overload spring, right? Of course that is assuming that the OP has 18" rims on his 2500. The 2013 and newer 3500's (and 2014 and newer 2500's) have an upgraded frame, but their is less mechanical difference between the two in 2011 than there is in 2014...

 

[TRCM]

You know that the only difference between a 2500 and 3500 in the 2011 model is the rear overload spring, right? Of course that is assuming that the OP has 18" rims on his 2500. The 2013 and newer 3500's (and 2014 and newer 2500's) have an upgraded frame, but their is less mechanical difference between the two in 2011 than there is in 2014...

and the numbers on the door.........................

 

[GsRAM]

You know that the only difference between a 2500 and 3500 in the 2011 model is the rear overload spring, right? Of course that is assuming that the OP has 18" rims on his 2500. The 2013 and newer 3500's (and 2014 and newer 2500's) have an upgraded frame, but their is less mechanical difference between the two in 2011 than there is in 2014...

no I didn't know that, but I don't believe the 11s have as heavy of a rear axle that the 14 and newer 2500 and 3500s do? thanks

 

[spoon059]

and the numbers on the door.........................

The number on the door isn't a mechanical difference. Nuts and bolts differences in a 2011 Ram 2500 and 3500 (assuming comparable wheels and tires) are the overload spring in the 3500, allowing for a slightly higher axle rating.

The 2500 is de-rated on paper to meet the 10,000 lbs GVWR designation of a class 2B vehicle. Ford, Ram and GM decided it is far cheaper to place a lower rating number on a sticker of essentially the same vehicle than to redesign an entirely new vehicle with slightly less capability.

 

[spoon059]

no I didn't know that, but I don't believe the 11s have as heavy of a rear axle that the 14 and newer 2500 and 3500s do? thanks

I'm not entirely certain. I believe that the 2011 and 2015 Rams have the same 11.5" AAM axle, but I believe the 2011's had a lower rating due to 17" wheels and, therefore, a lower tire rating.
The 2011 Ram 3500 has a SRW rear axle rating of 6500 lbs and DRW rear axle rating of 9350 lbs.
The 2015 Ram 3500 has a SRW rear axle rating of 7000 lbs and DRW rear axle rating of 9750 lbs.

400-500 lbs rear axle increase and 500 lbs of front axle increase allow for close to 1000 lbs higher GVWR between the two models. Interestingly enough, my 2015 Ram 2500 has HIGHER axle ratings (6,000 front, 6,500 rear on 18" rims) than a 2012 Ram 3500 (5,000 front, 6,500 rear)... but a lower GVWR because of the class 2B restricting 10,000 lbs GVWR.

 

[TRCM]

The number on the door isn't a mechanical difference. Nuts and bolts differences in a 2011 Ram 2500 and 3500 (assuming comparable wheels and tires) are the overload spring in the 3500, allowing for a slightly higher axle rating.

The 2500 is de-rated on paper to meet the 10,000 lbs GVWR designation of a class 2B vehicle. Ford, Ram and GM decided it is far cheaper to place a lower rating number on a sticker of essentially the same vehicle than to redesign an entirely new vehicle with slightly less capability.

You said in a previous post the only difference was springs, and I said (correctly) that the door sticker numbers are also different.

No one said anything about mechanical differences, and I never said you were wrong.

Try the nuts & bolts argument with the people who enforce those limits, bet it works real good.

I know on my 97 dually, I had to prove to them how much it weighed and what it was capable of carrying/towing because the previous owner lied and said it weighed 5000 lbs and was only rated for towing 6000 so he could get cheaper plates & registration. He got car plates, @ ~ $50 per yr, when the correct truck plates were well over $1000 per yr.

 

[spoon059]

You said in a previous post the only difference was springs, and I said (correctly) that the door sticker numbers are also different.

No one said anything about mechanical differences, and I never said you were wrong.

Smart aleck... =) You win.

Yes, too many people don't understand about registration weights being enforceable, warranty numbers on a yellow sticker are not legally enforceable. My previous truck was a 2010 Tundra with a 7200 lbs GVWR and 1500 lbs of payload. My state registers vehicles at 7000 lbs or 10,000 lbs... nothing in between. I could have paid for the cheaper registration and "lost" 200 lbs of an already low payload rating, or paid a little more and "gained" 1800 lbs in LEGAL payload ( I had factory E rated tires on my truck, so sufficient tire rating for those weights).

I paid a little more and was perfectly legal to 10,000 lbs, though I doubt the Tundra would have liked being loaded down that heavy! Nothing that any law enforcement officer could have done to prevent me from driving down the road though. Tires were sufficient, paid registration was sufficient. Warranty could have been denied if Toyota knew I was over weight and could PROVE that being over weight caused whatever issue.