TPMS Numbers Don’t Change

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Mister Luck

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My sound proofing definitely has metal in it. As far as the frequency the guys set I don’t know.
I did pull out the RF hub, away from the sound proofing while being connected and no changes.
I’m going to call the tire shop to see if the hub is working from the tpms side of things. I know it’s working as far as the radio and other functions go. I unplugged it and the truck was dead and not even turnover.
The wheel weights are the metal rectangles that stick to the rim. Double sided tape??
I’ve had the same tires since I bought when the TPMS worked so I would say it’s not the tires.
Thanks for all help.
If your tires have over 16 ounces of weight attached for any one rim that is a lot of zinc at RPM
The other option could be an aftermarket radio or audio visual console that’s interfering.
You don't have other remotes or a cellphone that could be doing this ?

Maybe a parts store has a reader that can tell you what frequency your current TPMS are ?

There is a bluetooth reader fir TPMS in the Apple App Store supposedly it is able to read capture the serial numbers from the TPMS sensors haven't tried it myself but I plan-to when it stops raining here..
 
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ACB8

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If your tires have over 16 ounces of weight attached for any one rim that is a lot of zinc at RPM
The other option could be an aftermarket radio or audio visual console that’s interfering.
You don't have other remotes or a cellphone that could be doing this ?

Maybe a parts store has a reader that can tell you what frequency your current TPMS are ?

There is a bluetooth reader fir TPMS in the Apple App Store supposedly it is able to read capture the serial numbers from the TPMS sensors haven't tried it myself but I plan-to when it stops raining here..
No after market radio. I still think it’s my module because AlfaOBD says no module connected.
 
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If your tires have over 16 ounces of weight attached for any one rim that is a lot of zinc at RPM
The other option could be an aftermarket radio or audio visual console that’s interfering.
You don't have other remotes or a cellphone that could be doing this ?

Maybe a parts store has a reader that can tell you what frequency your current TPMS are ?

There is a bluetooth reader fir TPMS in the Apple App Store supposedly it is able to read capture the serial numbers from the TPMS sensors haven't tried it myself but I plan-to when it stops raining here..
My AlfaOBD shows the codes for the sensors. No other remotes. Has worked previously with my cell phone.
 

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Yep, total metal top layer. If I was to pull out the module, away from the sound proofing but leave the wires connected, would it make sense that it should work then? Trying to avoid pulling out all the sound proofing if I don’t have to.

I honestly don't think pulling the RF hub away from the wall will fix it. I think you are going to have to remove the sound dampening. Give it a try though and see?


.
 

Mister Luck

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No after market radio. I still think it’s my module because AlfaOBD says no module connected.
Is it because the module is not active
(no power not plugged in ) or is it because the module needs to read TPMS signal to be active ?
CANbus is interacting and manages electrical current conservation.
 
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Is it because the module is not active
(no power not plugged in ) or is it because the module needs to read TPMS signal to be active ?
CANbus is interacting and manages electrical current conservation.
Alfa reads when the key is in the run position so I know it has power. It’s seeing all the other modules except for the TPMS module.
But again I’m seeing conflicting info. Some people say the module is up in the fender well/frame and others are saying it’s behind the front seat.
 
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I honestly don't think pulling the RF hub away from the wall will fix it. I think you are going to have to remove the sound dampening. Give it a try though and see?


.
No difference when I removed the module from the back wall away from the sound proofing.
 

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In the relationship between the sensors and the module the sensors may need to be awake to interact
that usually is triggered by a event such as a drive cycle or combination drive cycle and threshold pressure change.

Edit you may be able to look up the sensors MHZ with their serial numbers
 

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You’re sure there is no moisture behind the back seats ?
 

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No difference when I removed the module from the back wall away from the sound proofing.
I’m not sold it’s the soundproofing. The entire rear cab of mine along with all doors are covered in metallic backed soundproofing. Of course it’s anecdotal but no RF hub interference on mine.
 

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I may try making a faraday cage out of some of that stuff to see if it blocks wifi, bluetooth, and cellular signals.
 
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You’re sure there is no moisture behind the back seats ?
No moisture. I’ve heard about this so been I’ve been checking for water but no leaks.
 
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Update: so I took my truck back to the tire shop and they’re confused too. The guy took my truck and turned it to the run position, turned everything else off and let it sit for 25 minutes. He then scanned/relearned each sensor. They are at the 433(?) frequency by the way. Then told me to drive at least 35mph for 30 min which I did but nothing changed. So when I get some time I’ll pull the sound proofing to see if that fixes it. If not then the module behind the seat is all that’s left (I think).
 

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Update: so I took my truck back to the tire shop and they’re confused too. The guy took my truck and turned it to the run position, turned everything else off and let it sit for 25 minutes. He then scanned/relearned each sensor. They are at the 433(?) frequency by the way. Then told me to drive at least 35mph for 30 min which I did but nothing changed. So when I get some time I’ll pull the sound proofing to see if that fixes it. If not then the module behind the seat is all that’s left (I think).
I think the problem maybe you need to use
more sound deadening material not less .

I would focus on the modules and not just the RF.
Door modules become water damaged too , do you have an electric sunroof ?

Have you any problems originally getting LEDs to work in your truck ?
 
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I think the problem maybe you need to use
more sound deadening material not less .

I would focus on the modules and not just the RF.
Door modules become water damaged too , do you have an electric sunroof ?

Have you any problems originally getting LEDs to work in your truck ?
No sun roof. Doors seem to work fine. I get the dreaded parking light out alert which throws the side marker out code bc of LEDs but that been that way since I bought.
 

Mister Luck

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No sun roof. Doors seem to work fine. I get the dreaded parking light out alert which throws the side marker out code bc of LEDs but that been that way since I bought.
The LED’s use a (load resistor) ? Anything aftermarket tied into the electrical system is suspect.
 
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I noticed a couple little boxes wired into the headlight wires which I’m sure are resistors. Been tempted to remove them since it doesn’t fix the alert issue.
 

Mister Luck

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I noticed a couple little boxes wired into the headlight wires which I’m sure are resistors. Been tempted to remove them since it doesn’t fix the alert issue.
I’m no expert when it comes to wiring aftermarket LED’s
Depending on where you have the bed lights drawing voltage from I would start there and trace back to connectors or scotch locks see if they need refreshing.
The CANbus system shuts down electrical modules who’s circuits are not recognized as standard operating temperature due to resistance of current flow.
 
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I’m no expert when it comes to wiring aftermarket LED’s
Depending on where you have the bed lights drawing voltage from I would start there and trace back to connectors or scotch locks see if they need refreshing.
The CANbus system shuts down electrical modules who’s circuits are not recognized as standard operating temperature due to resistance of current flow.
Sorry for my ignorance but did you mean bed lights? And what’s a scotch lock? Thanks again.
 

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Sorry for my ignorance but did you mean bed lights? And what’s a scotch lock? Thanks again.
Yes and or any LED’s that are being used with your truck’s electrical system.

Scotch Lock is a 3M trade name and commonly used wire connector / splice that is made in different variants by different manufacturers, you might know them as crimp connectors.
IMG_3005.jpeg
Over time they can corrode or loosen. Any time a connector is used it creates resistance of the electrical current.

Some suggest only using factory components like bulb sockets because their resistance is calculated and or they have better consistency of production IE quality. I some instances they correct the issues, in others they are only a temporary fix.
CANbus gets inputs from modules that are wired and wireless and monitors them by frequency and signal strength or voltage and resistance.
 
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