true dual exhaust

[texasfan88]

Just asking why the 3” as 2.5 would cost less. What HP you making?

Now that I think about it, 2.5 inches is really all I need. My truck is completely stock, no CAI, no tune, supercharger, etc. 3 inches definitely allows for better flow but I suppose is really only crucial when you have the performance mods I just listed. Best of all, is that not only will I save money, but I can custom build the exhaust system with the muffler I actually want which, after listening to it, is the Spintech 9000.

 

[bran101010]

That's the best way to go in my opinion. I have redone my exhaust quite a few times now to get what I wanted.

 

[Lyle Longboat]

Yeah if your stock and no mods whatsoever, Your good with 2.5! I believe, and someone correct me if I’m wrong, 2.5 is good until 500hp, then 3” is required and so forth. I may have that wrong as I can’t remember off hand. It’s something fluke that.
Sorry it’s 250-300 HP is 2.5”

 

[Ohio5pt7]

Yeah if your stock and no mods whatsoever, Your good with 2.5! I believe, and someone correct me if I’m wrong, 2.5 is good until 500hp, then 3” is required and so forth. I may have that wrong as I can’t remember off hand. It’s something fluke that.
Sorry it’s 250-300 HP is 2.5”

Curious as to where you got the numbers? True dual 2.5 would flow way more than needed for 250-300hp

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[Ohio5pt7]

Rule of thumb is for every 100hp you need 1" of pipe. A dual 2.5" will support 500hp and keep exhaust velocity at its most efficient. 600hp 3" ect. Now obviously once you get to a certain level it's no longer the job of the exhaust to make power you just have to overcome that restriction. Aka boost.

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[texasfan88]

Rule of thumb is for every 100hp you need 1" of pipe. A dual 2.5" will support 500hp and keep exhaust velocity at its most efficient. 600hp 3" ect. Now obviously once you get to a certain level it's no longer the job of the exhaust to make power you just have to overcome that restriction. Aka boost.

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Thanks! So is it safe to say that even if I decided to add a cold air intake and a tune, 2.5 inches is sufficient enough? I haven’t looked at how much power a tuner adds is why I’m asking although I’m sure it’s nowhere near as much as what they do for a diesel engine.

 

[Ohio5pt7]

Thanks! So is it safe to say that even if I decided to add a cold air intake and a tune, 2.5 inches is sufficient enough? I haven’t looked at how much power a tuner adds is why I’m asking although I’m sure it’s nowhere near as much as what they do for a diesel engine.

You'll be good. Now of you plan cam heads , headers things like that 3" is something to consider. But FBO your not going to restrict it with 2.5 true duals

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[Lyle Longboat]

Rule of thumb is for every 100hp you need 1" of pipe. A dual 2.5" will support 500hp and keep exhaust velocity at its most efficient. 600hp 3" ect. Now obviously once you get to a certain level it's no longer the job of the exhaust to make power you just have to overcome that restriction. Aka boost.

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Thanks for the correction, I thought I had it right the first time, then checked online and thought I was wrong the first time.

 

[Lyle Longboat]

Thanks! So is it safe to say that even if I decided to add a cold air intake and a tune, 2.5 inches is sufficient enough? I haven’t looked at how much power a tuner adds is why I’m asking although I’m sure it’s nowhere near as much as what they do for a diesel engine.

I have long tubes/CIA, true dual 2.5 and custom tune and my truck runs great!

 

[pt1655]

Hi, following your exhaust post. My exhaust guy put a cross pipe in to eliminate the factory squashed merge pipe, 2-36" glass pack mufflers and left the rear pipes and resonators stock. My previous setup was true dual exhau with shorter mufflers like Corsa that left me with such a drone that I couldn't stand it. The glass packs had no drone but a nice deep rumble and sounded great under power. Either setup took a lot of the low end torque away. I did all this to help get a little more power towing our 5000lb 25' travel trailer. The pipes, either setup, did not add much power that I noticed but sure sounded great. What did help with power was the Vararam intake and BullyDog tuner. What they don't tell you, tuners or intake or exhaust, is that most power on a gas engine is at wide open throttle or at high rpms. Now that I'm 70 and have hearing aids, I went back to stock exhaust and keeping the crossover pipe. My health has left us not RVing anymore. But, the glass packs, even as nice as sounded, were too much for my hearing aids and hurt my ears. Sigh. Good luck with your journey, have fun with it!

 

[Lyle Longboat]

This is my current exhaust setup. I just painted the exhaust in this pic and worked on the frame next.

 

[texasfan88]

I think for now, my plan is to install the following:

This direct-fit tailpipe kit (if it works with my truck):
https://www.truckexhaustkits.com/dodge-ram-2009-2014-customizable-dual-exhaust-kit/

This muffler (sounds mean as hell):
https://spintechmufflers.com/street-mufflers/9000-super-pro-street/

Total Flow Y-Pipe:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BK5C28H?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I'll also be adding a pair of 5 inch black exhaust tips as well. I actually have some on my truck now but they're made to fit the factory tailpipes, so they obviously won't fit a larger diameter 2.5 inch pipe.

Doing this is actually much cheaper than getting an already pre-made catback exhaust and plus, I can use the muffler I want.

I might add an intake in the future but I'm stuck between the Vararam and the S&B. I like the way the vararam looks and I don't mind the more frequent filter cleaning it requires but I've also heard they aren't built very well and dirt and dust can get in between the seal.

 

[texasfan88]

Ok, I emailed truck exhaust kits customer service to ask if their dual exhaust kit would fit my truck, because they're designed to convert a single exhaust into a dual exhaust, and they told me I would need a dual exhaust adapter. Ok stupid question but is "dual exhaust adapter" just another term for Y-pipe?

 

[Ohio5pt7]

Just buy a x or h pipe pick a set of mufflers and call it a day. No need to buy a kit no need for a high dollar cat back.

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[Ohio5pt7]

I think for now, my plan is to install the following:

This direct-fit tailpipe kit (if it works with my truck):
https://www.truckexhaustkits.com/dodge-ram-2009-2014-customizable-dual-exhaust-kit/

This muffler (sounds mean as hell):
https://spintechmufflers.com/street-mufflers/9000-super-pro-street/

Total Flow Y-Pipe:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BK5C28H?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I'll also be adding a pair of 5 inch black exhaust tips as well. I actually have some on my truck now but they're made to fit the factory tailpipes, so they obviously won't fit a larger diameter 2.5 inch pipe.

Doing this is actually much cheaper than getting an already pre-made catback exhaust and plus, I can use the muffler I want.

I might add an intake in the future but I'm stuck between the Vararam and the S&B. I like the way the vararam looks and I don't mind the more frequent filter cleaning it requires but I've also heard they aren't built very well and dirt and dust can get in between the seal.

Get the vararam you just have to watch the filter when you put it back together. Proven results and it looks way better than any other intake.

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[texasfan88]

Just buy a x or h pipe pick a set of mufflers and call it a day. No need to buy a kit no need for a high dollar cat back.

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I wouldn't get a full catback system, just the larger diameter exhaust pipes. However, if spending that kind of money on a set of pipes isn't going to provide any noticeable benefit over stock, I think I might just stick with the factory tailpipes. I know it seems like I'm going back and forth on what I want to do but I just want to make sure I'm getting the best value for the money I'm spending and that I'm not spending a ridiculous amount to get it.

 

[Ohio5pt7]

I wouldn't get a full catback system, just the larger diameter exhaust pipes. However, if spending that kind of money on a set of pipes isn't going to provide any noticeable benefit over stock, I think I might just stick with the factory tailpipes. I know it seems like I'm going back and forth on what I want to do but I just want to make sure I'm getting the best value for the money I'm spending and that I'm not spending a ridiculous amount to get it.

Even keeping stock diameter you will be hard pressed to out flow what a true dual set up can flow without doing at minimum fbo and a cam. Like I said grab a xpipe and 2 mufflers if you dont want it super loud and go with it. I have a xpipe deleted the muffler sounds amazing.


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[texasfan88]

Even keeping stock diameter you will be hard pressed to out flow what a true dual set up can flow without doing at minimum fbo and a cam. Like I said grab a xpipe and 2 mufflers if you dont want it super loud and go with it. I have a xpipe deleted the muffler sounds amazing.


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Ok good to know! By the way, did you purchase a universal-fit x pipe and just had it installed or did you get one custom fabricated? I might just do a single (dual in/dual out) muffler though. I'll save about $200 doing that route anyway lol.

 

[Ohio5pt7]

Ok good to know! By the way, did you purchase a universal-fit x pipe and just had it installed or did you get one custom fabricated? I might just do a single (dual in/dual out) muffler though. I'll save about $200 doing that route anyway lol.

It's a magnaflow universal. With the stock resonators it really isnt bad at all.

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[StickyLifter]

You can use a dual in/dual out straight through muffler and it will make an X in the middle of the muffler. If I ever redo my exhaust, that is what I will use. If you tow, especially heavy stuff, get ready for done, it'll be there no matter what.

If you wanna learn:

You'll need 2.2cfm per 1 gross engine horsepower as measured on an engine dyno. You do not use SAE HP numbers to size intake and exhaust manifolds, you use gross engine hp. Your truck produces a net SAE measured 395hp stock which would equate to something like 440hp with long tubes, no cats, no accessories, and perhaps a Vararam. You'll need aggressive timing curves and around 12.7:1 WOT AFRs to max a given combo of cam, heads, and manifold. You can't run that lean with cats.

Here is a link explaining exhaust gas flow needs and pressure wave tuning:
If you pay attention you'll realize that all of these truck heads and Y pipes are probably sub optimal because their secondary pipe lengths are wrong and none have some form of a pressure wave termination box, but if you are slick, you can use a large flowmaster muffler just for that. After the "box" you can do whatever you want. I'd put 5x mufflers on it.

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/exhaust/0505phr-exh