Tuner for efan engage temp?

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LIRR_Lineman

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Hi and sorry if this has been beaten to death already. I have a 2012 ram 5.7 hemi. I replaced the thermostat to 180⁰ and am replacing the water pump as well (just hit 90k) due to a little leaking. In my research i saw a cool V6 efan mod so me being me i figured I'd do that. My question is what tuner do I use to change the efan engagement tempature? I have never used a tuner and am totally clueless. Please tell it to me like i am a child and need specific directions on which one and how to do it lol.
 
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LIRR_Lineman

LIRR_Lineman

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K, I'm putting the mechanical fan back on lol... every time i try something like this it becomes a big mess.
 

PaleFlyer

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K, I'm putting the mechanical fan back on lol... every time i try something like this it becomes a big mess.
Wait, what went sideways???
It's a pretty well documented mod. Alfa should be able to handle the on temp. Removal doesn't look "too" bad. I'm planning to do the delete soon, and the temp change, but haven't convinced myself the v8 fan is actually unable to do the job. I haven't found exact specs either, but... It doesn't look that much smaller, so I don't believe the V6 fan gives that much more air flow. Especially if the grill flap BS is already removed.
 

Wild one

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Wait, what went sideways???
It's a pretty well documented mod. Alfa should be able to handle the on temp. Removal doesn't look "too" bad. I'm planning to do the delete soon, and the temp change, but haven't convinced myself the v8 fan is actually unable to do the job. I haven't found exact specs either, but... It doesn't look that much smaller, so I don't believe the V6 fan gives that much more air flow. Especially if the grill flap BS is already removed.
I'm just running the factory e-fan on my truck,and have never had any issues with it running hot,also have a buddy down in Georgia getting away with just the stock e-fan,and he tows roughly 5,000 lbs with his truck fairly often. If you do the mechanical fan and shroud delete,keep the mechanical fan in the box or under a seat with you for the first few times you're using the truck,that way if it does run hotter then you like,you can spin the mechanical fan back on to get you home,and then go from there.
 

Plainbroke

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Wild one
I'm just running the factory e-fan on my truck,and have never had any issues with it running hot,also have a buddy down in Georgia getting away with just the stock e-fan,and he tows roughly 5,000 lbs with his truck fairly often. If you do the mechanical fan and shroud delete,keep the mechanical fan in the box or under a seat with you for the first few times you're using the truck,that way if it does run hotter then you like,you can spin the mechanical fan back on to get you home,and then go from there.
So you just removed the mechanical and shroud? Thats what I have been wanting to do !!!
If I disconnect the efan from the factory wiring and run an aftermarket electric thermostat to operate the fan instead of the factory wiring, would it through a code???
 

Wild one

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Wild one

So you just removed the mechanical and shroud? Thats what I have been wanting to do !!!
If I disconnect the efan from the factory wiring and run an aftermarket electric thermostat to operate the fan instead of the factory wiring, would it through a code???
I'm guessing it would,as even pulling the relay and jumping it on my 14 and just driving it from the pits to the staging lanes at the track turns on a check engine light.If you're not going to tune it,leave the stock mechanical fan and shroud in place,you could still run a cooler thermostat like a 190F though,it'll still help with temps even with-out tuning
 

Eeyor16

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I have done the mechanical fan/shroud delete as well as the ac fan delete and put the v6 efan/180 tstat in. Plugs directly to a/c fan plug. No codes. Pulled a 31’ trailer through the mountains in summer. Zero heating issues. All with no tune adjustment.
Now though. I would like to set the on temp proper with alphaobd. But can’t seem to find the sequence.
 
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Plainbroke

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From what I have read in several different forums AlfaObd can not do the temp thing you would need to buy a tuner. And if you are like me your computer is locked it gets really expensive. I was thinking I could put one way choke in line to keep the power from feeding back into the computer and run a in the head temp sensor to turn the fan on at 195 or so and that would let the computer control the fan otherwise but havent dug into the wiring diagram to figure out how to do that yet. Someone will figure it out I am sure. I read where someone was writing code to turn something on when the ac preasure reached a certain psi. So someone out there is going to figure out a way around the computer controlling the fan. I think it could be done by tying into the ac compressor led that triggers the fan when it is on. just tap into that with a temp sensor and it would fire up the fan as if the ac compressor asked for it to be on. Hope this makes some kind of sense it does in my head but may be just a thought too.
 

Eeyor16

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From what I have read in several different forums AlfaObd can not do the temp thing you would need to buy a tuner. And if you are like me your computer is locked it gets really expensive. I was thinking I could put one way choke in line to keep the power from feeding back into the computer and run a in the head temp sensor to turn the fan on at 195 or so and that would let the computer control the fan otherwise but havent dug into the wiring diagram to figure out how to do that yet. Someone will figure it out I am sure. I read where someone was writing code to turn something on when the ac preasure reached a certain psi. So someone out there is going to figure out a way around the computer controlling the fan. I think it could be done by tying into the ac compressor led that triggers the fan when it is on. just tap into that with a temp sensor and it would fire up the fan as if the ac compressor asked for it to be on. Hope this makes some kind of sense it does in my head but may be just a thought too.
Thank you sir
 

MegaHertz

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So, I did the clutch fan delete, v6 eFan, and 180* t-stat. Have a Diablo tuner and unlocked pcm, so I set the fan/on temp to 205* and all has been good for a few months. ECT stays around 187* to 195*, usually on the low end. It might spike around 207* at most under heavy load, but the eFan kicks on and quickly brings ECT down to 180s where it stays mostly.

Recently though, I decided to clean up the engine bay and extend the wiring harness so I could secure the connector in the slot on the eFan shroud. I did this simultaneously with the activate shutter delete mod by removing all but the top and bottom fins.

Should make things even cooler, right?

However, after securing the connector into the eFan shroud, my temps have been regularly soaring up to 217-219* before the fan kicks on and brings it slowly down to ~196*. ECT hovers around the 203-205* while cruising now instead of 180s-190s, but shoots up as soon as I get on the gas. I’m wondering why? I even programmed the fan temp down further to 195*, but no change in engine temps.

Is the green spool thing on the connector some sort of thermometer? I would have thought the eFan activation would be dictated by ECT readings elsewhere through the pcm. Only guess is that it is much cooler inside the fan shroud where the connector/green spool thing is now than in the engine bay where it was zip-tied before? I’ll try programming the fan temp incrementally lower; hopefully it will be able to get and keep the ECTs back down to the range I was seeing before.

Any insight on this @Wild one or anyone else?
 
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Wild one

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So, I did the clutch fan delete, v6 eFan, and 180* t-stat. Have a Diablo tuner and unlocked pcm, so I set the fan/on temp to 205* and all has been good for a few months. ECT stays around 187* to 195*, usually on the low end. It might spike around 207* at most under heavy load, but the eFan kicks on and quickly brings ECT down to 180s where it stays mostly.

Recently though, I decided to clean up the engine bay and extend the wiring harness so I could secure the connector in the slot on the eFan shroud. I did this simultaneously with the activate shutter delete mod by removing all but the top and bottom fins.

Should make things even cooler, right?

However, after securing the connector into the eFan shroud, my temps have been regularly soaring up to 217-219* before the fan kicks on and brings it slowly down to ~196*. ECT hovers around the 203-205* while cruising now instead of 180s-190s, but shoots up as soon as I get on the gas. I’m wondering why? I even programmed the fan temp down further to 195*, but no change in engine temps.

Is the green spool thing on the connector some sort of thermometer? I would have thought the eFan activation would be dictated by ECT readings elsewhere through the pcm. Only guess is that it is much cooler inside the fan shroud where the connector/green spool thing is now than in the engine bay where it was zip-tied before? I’ll try programming the fan temp incrementally lower; hopefully it will be able to get and keep the ECTs back down to the range I was seeing before.

Any insight on this @Wild one or anyone else?
Sounds like a thermostat issue.These days if you get 6 months out of a thermostat,you should go buy a lottery ticket.
For a 180 t-stat,set your fan temps to about 196/198 .
 

MegaHertz

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Sounds like a thermostat issue.These days if you get 6 months out of a thermostat,you should go buy a lottery ticket.
For a 180 t-stat,set your fan temps to about 196/198 .
How coincidental is it that it only happened when I moved the harness? I was driving around that day before the change and things were as usual. Immediately after, I was getting higher temps. Do you know what that green spool thing is on the connector?
 

MegaHertz

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I should mention too that I extended the harness and deleted the active shutters just a couple days ago when this symptom started.
 

MegaHertz

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Turned fan temp down to 185*. Now stays at or below ~211*, but still cools to only 196*… interesting. I’ll turn program down to 180* next. Still think it might be something with connector location? If that doesn’t work, I’ll zip-tie to previous location inside engine bay and see if that helps.
 

MegaHertz

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Sounds like a thermostat issue.These days if you get 6 months out of a thermostat,you should go buy a lottery ticket.
For a 180 t-stat,set your fan temps to about 196/198 .
6 months, seriously?! I replaced the stock 203* with a Gates 180* maybe 4-5 months ago.

Does Mopar make a 180* or 190* t-stat with better reliability? I’ll shell out more $$ if means I don’t have to replace a t-stat 2x per year.
 

Kid's HEMI! !!

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I was recommended to Mr. gasket 4367 from my Tuner said that that’s the one that he has the least problems with
 

Wild one

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6 months, seriously?! I replaced the stock 203* with a Gates 180* maybe 4-5 months ago.

Does Mopar make a 180* or 190* t-stat with better reliability? I’ll shell out more $$ if means I don’t have to replace a t-stat 2x per year.
If you have a Direct Connection dealer local to you,they'll have a 180 t-stat,some normal dealers carry them to.
I don't know if they're any better quality though.
48798 is the number for the older 180 Stant,but as far as i know Stant is no more.
Lately Mr Gasket thermostats seem to have one of the better reps,but even they sometimes leave a bit to be desired.
I've had 2 of them go south in short order to.
The days of buying a thermostat and having it last 10 years seem to be over,now if they make 6 months,you've got a good one,and should go buy a lottery ticket.
Before install i throw every new thermostat in a pot of water on the stove,and use a meat thermometer to monitor the water temp just to make sure the new thermostat is opening at it's advertised temp
 

Bigskyroadglide

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Stant was acquired by Motorad, but the Stant name and brand can still be acquired at AutoZone, Advance and via Amazon

48799 is a 190

 

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