U0140 PERMANENT

[maitai11]

Hi Fellas,

First-time poster here, just bought a 2014 Ram SLT (just as an aside, I'm told the 'SLT' is the interior package?) with 50,000 miles on it - it's a great truck as far as I can tell with a sprayed-on bed liner and auto start as upgrades.

Eventually, I'd like to do the audio steering wheel controls with a leather wheel, maybe a cluster upgrade, and other fun stuff like a bed cover or tool box (can't decide which???)

Today, I scanned and tried to erase a U0140 lost communication with body module PERMANENT. I've never had a permanent code before, but are we talking something like bad wiring or corroded connector here? I've seen other posts where it mentions that U0140 is nothing to worry about, but I'm just asking again since I saw the 'permanent' designation. I've also seen where chasing it can be a wild goose chase, and maybe not worth the time if I can let my OCD slide...

I'm using an Actron AutoScanner Plus that could not identify my specific vehicle, but did finally indicate it knew it was a 2014 model.

Any other info/links would be greatly appreciated! I'm about to finish a masters degree, and this kind of stuff is what I'll be getting into once I have the free time - and money - again!

"March 7th is not far away, March 7th is not far away, March 7th is not far away..." Hehehe.

Many thanks for the hardcore helpers in this forum. I love forums, but people who answer questions even more. I try to do it myself when I have the expertise. Many thanks.

Maitai

 

[Burla]

Did you try and disconnect battery, both terminals?

If not you may have to fix the problem.

 

[Burla]

what ob2 says on your error.

congrats on your degree!!

 

[MADDOG]

X 3 on a power down reset. Pull the negative connection on the battery and leave it sit for 30 minutes or so.

As far as the SLT goes, it's an option line which included cloth seats, basic controls, basic audio and a few Option package 1 features.

It's sort of an entry level model having more options than the Tradesman but not as many as the Big Horn or Laramie packages.

Adding the premium cluster, an upgraded steering wheel with controls and other such modifications is well documented here. One of our vendors, mpgrimm aka M2 Mods, is our expert on those matters and he's got a lot of information on how it's all done.

Here's to graduation day!

 

[Rampant]

That code is generic and means something slightly different per manufacturer. Your scanner must default to that "permanent" description. In the Ram, it just simply means it lost comm with the BCM at some point.

As said above, try a reset. Instead of leaving it unhooked, you can also disconnect both battery terminals and touch them together momentarily. That will dissipate any stored energy and force a low voltage reset once power is reconnected.

If that doesn't work, there is possibly some condensation and/or condensation-induced corrosion somewhere on the can bus. I would disconnect and inspect the pins carefully and blow out any debris with low pressure air. If nothing obvious is found, I'd put a coating of dielectric grease and reseat/reinstall the BCM.

Is your scan tool able to initiate self-tests? Im not familiar with that model. If so, there are a couple you can run if any of the above suggestions don't pan out. Hope this helps, let us know either way!

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S8 using Tapatalk

 

[abouttobeglue]

On my chevy cruze my obd reader read permanent for an emissions problem, it was the evap purge valve on that car, i cleared the code and it still read permanent after i fixed it, however after a few drive cycles of it being fixed the permanent code went away. It's done so you cant just reset it without fixing it, likely when you go to sell it and it being the new owners problem.

 

[kad]

Today, I scanned and tried to erase a U0140 lost communication with body module PERMANENT. I've never had a permanent code before, but are we talking something like bad wiring or corroded connector here? I've seen other posts where it mentions that U0140 is nothing to worry about, but I'm just asking again since I saw the 'permanent' designation. I've also seen where chasing it can be a wild goose chase, and maybe not worth the time if I can let my OCD slide...

I'm using an Actron AutoScanner Plus that could not identify my specific vehicle, but did finally indicate it knew it was a 2014 model.

I had the same thing on my 2014. It's a bug, there is a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) on the issue. The fix is a flash update of the PCM, due to the TSB your dealer should do it for free.

The TSB number is 18-072-16, here's a link to it: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2016/SB-10080307-2280.pdf

Oh, the Actron scanner I have won't ID my truck either. Actron units don't seem torecognize the RAMs.

-K

 

[maitai11]

Wow, thank you all so much!!!

Working back from the bottom up;

Kad: thank you for the TSB - I believe I would like to have this fixed permanently with a re-flash - so I'm going to try and have a dealer do it for free after I print that excellent TSB you included - again, thank you!

Abouttobeglue: That's great information - and not only for this one thing. It's one of those pieces of information you tuck away and remember when you need it the most - so thank you very much for the gift that keeps on giving!

Rampant: Again, lots of great information that I can use, regardless of whether or not the dealer does the flash for free - in fact, it will be very valuable any way you look at it. Thanks so much.

Maddog and Burla: Thank you both for the great information, as well as the congratulations on the degree...for me, it hasn't quite sunk in yet. I don't know what I'll do first! Also, thanks, Maddog, for the information on the upgrades - and the hookup with the forum vendor - many thanks!

Doing my part, I'll report back after I see the dealer maybe this week. You guys are the best!

Kind regards,

Maitai

 

[maitai11]

Well, they want $129.00 plus whatever else they find. I told him I would be going to another dealer - some of my firefighting buddies may know someone in town. In the meantime, I'll be doing the procedures listed here to try and clear it. If it won't clear, I may leave well enough alone... might not be worth the trouble since everything appears to be working well. I'll update you on the next few days.

Thanks everyone!

Maitai

 

[sandawilliams]

Well, they want $129.00 plus whatever else they find. I told him I would be going to another dealer - some of my firefighting buddies may know someone in town. In the meantime, I'll be doing the procedures listed here to try and clear it. If it won't clear, I may leave well enough alone... might not be worth the trouble since everything appears to be working well. I'll update you on the next few days.

Thanks everyone!

Maitai

My dealer told me the same thing on a TSB. They claim after warranty that a TSB is always charged for. Only recalls are done for free and they are usually safety related. I thing its BS but what's a guy to do?

 

[kad]

My dealer told me the same thing on a TSB. They claim after warranty that a TSB is always charged for. Only recalls are done for free and they are usually safety related. I thing its BS but what's a guy to do?

Hmm, mine was done for free, but my truck is under an extended warranty, so that may explain it.

 

[chrisbh17]

I try to get the dealer to credit me the diagnosis fee if they find something and I pay them to fix it. Most of the time they say no but it's worth a shot.

Warranties are nice but once I'm past it I try to find a shop I trust. It's getting harder to do, though, so I end up doing most out of warranty work myself.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

 

[maitai11]

Thanks Sanda, I appreciate it.

 

[maitai11]

Hey Fellas,

I got the updated flash for the PCM at a cost of $149. It seems to me that the MPG is several ticks better - I'm impressed! While cruising in ECO mode at 70 mph, the fuel efficiency line is pegged at 30 MPG...a welcome sight. Also, the vehicle is more responsive - and it appears the HP went up - both after the installation of the K&N cold air intake, and then the PCM flash. Oh, and when I disconnected the battery to do the CAI, my remote start stopped working - that's why I did the PCM flash update. Problem is, when I brought it in, dealer couldn't find U0140 - so my theory is, while the negative was disconnected, there was a soft reset that got rid of the U0140 - but I'm still glad to have done the flash update. Now, if I can only figure out the aftermarket DB3 remote start...says "Wrong Key Fob." I have an email into the original installer...

Chat soon,

Maitai